Cheesemaking

I was inspired to start making cheese at home after my job as a cheesemonger took me all over the world, visiting my suppliers and witnessing the ways in which they make their incredible cheeses. Each one uses a different and original technique, some revolutionary, some passed down through many generations.

I love the way this craft was born from something quite simple, to go on to be used all over the world, by so many different people from various walks of life, all united by the act of cheesemaking.

Every culture in the world has its own cheese, all made following a similar principle, which suggests a common ancestry. Even countries such as China, not known for its dairy products, has its own type of cheese, Rushan, an Asian semi-soft cheese, made by the Bai people. And then there is the more unusual queso blanco from South America. Yet it was in Europe that a large variety of cheeses were developed, many of which have become our cheeseboard favourites today.

There are thought to be 3,500 varieties of cheese being produced across the world. And now the trend is entering our homes too, with more and more people having a go at making their own cheese without setting foot on a farm or getting down and dirty to milking a cow.

THE HISTORY OF CHEESEMAKING

The history of cheesemaking is full of fascinating stories, and it dates back around 5,000 years. Originally, cheese was created by a wonderful accident: herdsmen transported milk in leather bottles, and rennet, an enzyme found inside a calf’s stomach, would cause the milk to curdle, thus creating the first recorded cheese.

The development of blue cheese was another fantastic accident. One legend has it that a French shepherd left his cheese in a cave while he was in pursuit of a lady, and when he returned he found the cheese had formed mould. When he tasted it, he discovered it was absolutely delicious. Although this story is a bit fanciful, never the less it has its place in history! The blue mould is abundant in the air and grows rapidly under certain conditions, so the natural blueing of the cheese was a result of the environment it was left in – in this case, a cave.

The features of certain cheeses also give a little insight into our history. For example, at first glance a Valençay cheese (an ash-coated goat’s cheese) is a beautiful French goat’s cheese. However, it used to be a perfect pyramid shape. When Napoleon returned from a disastrous campaign in Egypt, he stopped at the castle at Valençay, and their local pyramidal cheese apparently aroused such unpleasant memories that it is believed he cut the top off with his sword in fury, leaving the shape that survives to the present day.

So could you be the next one to discover or create a new cheese by accident…?

CHEESEMAKING AT HOME

I have written this book for anyone who would like to make cheese at home for their own use, and learn about the art of cheesemaking. I find making cheese a calming, satisfying exercise, great fun and very therapeutic. And by making cheese at home I have developed a strong appreciation for the effort that goes into all the beautiful cheeses I have been selling in my shop for years. Like many other people, I like to know where my food comes from, and when you make cheese at home you are witnessing every stage of the process. Homemade cheeses are free from the chemical stabilizers and colourings used in many supermarket cheeses.

As you begin making cheese at home, you will make some good cheese and – inevitably – some not so good cheese, but stick at it and don’t be discouraged by less than perfect results. Cheesemaking is a learning curve, and you will experience successes and failures. Yet it is a pursuit filled with endless potential: you can make anything from basic fresh cheeses to shopworthy artisan cheeses.

I have structured the book in such a way that you can progressively build your cheesemaking skills. I started by making the easiest fresh cheeses, and built complexity from there. I found that starting from the beginning and building my skills meant that I was able to progress in small and manageable steps. So if you are a beginner I would encourage you to do the same.

With each cheese you make, you will want to adjust and rework the recipe in your own way as you develop your skills and gain a better understanding of the cheesemaking process.