One of the bigger Scottish islands, Mull seems even larger as you try to navigate its narrow, twisting roads. The tall, multicoloured houses clustered around Tobermory’s harbour have become one of Scotland’s most recognisable views, but away from the capital the island is a wild and rugged place, celebrated for its white-tailed eagles, high mountains and endlessly convoluted coastline. Surrounding it is a whole series of diminutive neighbours, including probably Scotland’s holiest isle – Iona, perhaps its strangest – Staffa, and the home of its friendliest puffins – Lunga.