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CHAPTER 5

FEEDING YOURSELF (AND OTHERS)

Remember the nursery rhyme “Old Mother Hubbard”? No? Well, here’s a quick recap: Her cupboards were bare, blah, blah, blah, her dog dies, comes back to life, and at one point plays a flute (look it up)—all because she didn’t have some basic pantry staples on hand. The lesson? Things get weird when you rely on pizza delivery every night. Whether you love to cook or you see a frying pan solely as a weapon, this chapter will give you something to chew on. We’ll help you stock your cabinets, your fridge, and your bar—and show you how to shop seasonally and avoid rookie mistakes.

 

You can’t cook without…

…these staples. Keep them stocked and behold the opportunities.

IN THE PANTRY

image Balsamic vinegar

image Brown rice

image Canned beans (like garbanzo, cannellini, and black beans)

image Chicken broth

image Honey

image Jarred marinara sauce

image Pasta

image Quinoa

image Red wine vinegar

image Rolled oats

image Soy sauce

image Tomato paste

image Vegetable oil

image White rice

image White wine vinegar

FOR BAKING

image All-purpose flour

image Baking powder

image Baking soda

image Brown sugar

image Granulated sugar

image Unsweetened cocoa

image Vanilla extract (go for pure, not imitation, which often has additives and an unnatural flavor)

IN A COOL, DARK SPOT

image Garlic

image Onions

image Potatoes

IN THE REFRIGERATOR

image Butter

image Dijon mustard

image Eggs

image Maple syrup

image Milk

image Parmesan

image Plain yogurt

image Lemons

IN THE FREEZER

image Assorted vegetables (like peas, corn, and spinach)

image Bacon (if you don’t eat it in a few days, the freezer is the best place to keep it fresh)

image Bread (ditto)

image Nuts (they’ll go rancid in the pantry)

image Shrimp

image Strawberries or mixed berries (for smoothies)

IF YOU DO ONLY ONE THING…

GABRIELLE HAMILTON is a double threat: the chef-owner of the restaurant Prune, in New York City, and the author of Blood, Bones and Butter: A Memoir.

 

The spice-rack starter kit

There are 11,452 spices in that aisle of the grocery store. But you need only 12 or so to make your dishes sing.

1 | BLACK PEPPER. Yes, freshly ground pepper really does taste better. So buy some peppercorns that come with a built-in grinder (which can be refilled repeatedly, by the way) and play restaurant waiter at home.

2 | CAYENNE PEPPER. Some say this hot, spicy pepper can help your body detox. And maybe that’s true. But Master Cleanse aficionados aren’t the only ones who benefit from this staple—so do lovers of barbecue rubs and veggie dishes with a kick.

3 | CHILI POWDER. Sure, you could mix up your own blend of dried chilies, cumin, coriander, and oregano before the next Super Bowl party. Or you could just buy a jar.

4 | CINNAMON, GROUND. Mmm—this aromatic staple adds warmth to cookies and cakes and earthiness to stews.

5 | CUMIN, GROUND. A mellow, intensely flavorful spice, ground from a small seed. Delicious in Mexican, Middle Eastern, and Indian cooking, especially curries.

6 | CURRY POWDER. Up to 20 spices—including coriander, cumin, and turmeric—can make up this popular Indian blend. Look for a Madras variety, which brings the heat.

7 | GINGER, GROUND. This spice has a more intense and astringent taste than fresh ginger.

8 | KOSHER SALT. Forget the salt from the shaker; this is your go-to for seasoning everything from chicken to salad dressing. It’s coarser than regular table salt, which makes it easier to pinch and sprinkle, and it dissolves fast.

9 | NUTMEG, WHOLE. A warm, delicate spice frequently used in savory winter concoctions (roasted squash, spinach casserole) and baked goods. Use a microplane to grate it as needed.

10 | OREGANO, DRIED. A member of the mint family (who knew?), this robust herb adds a wallop of flavor to everything from spaghetti with marinara sauce to pizza to grilled tilapia.

11 | RED PEPPER, CRUSHED. Use these flakes of crushed red chilies sparingly to spice up pastas and stir-fries and to add zing to pizza.

12 | SEA SALT. These big, flaky crystals should be a final touch on just-cooked foods. Take a pinch and crush the crystals between your fingertips over vegetables, fish, or (bliss) warm chocolate chip cookies.

 

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Heavy metals: a beginner’s guide

You don’t have to have a lot of pots and pans—just the main players for pasta, scrambled eggs, and catching drippy roof leaks.

Pasta pot

WHY YOU NEED IT: Besides the fact that spaghetti is your signature dish? This is going to be your biggest pot—your go-to for dinner-party quantities of pasta, soup, and anything else that might require a large surface area and tall, straight sides. Its round base conducts heat up the sides while insulating the bottom to ensure that your sauce or stew doesn’t burn.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR: First, you do not need a pot the size of a Fiat with a colander insert. (Buy a separate colander.) A 6- to 12-quart size is ideal. It’s large enough to hold rice and beans for four but small enough to be carried easily from stovetop to sink even when full. Don’t skimp by buying a pot with a thin bottom. Thickness equals a longer life and a good transfer of heat. The bottom should be thicker than the sides. (A hefty bottom prevents scorching.) Stainless steel is your best bet. In addition to being durable, it tends to be lighter than other materials—something that you can appreciate when the pot is full of scalding water.

Saucepan

WHY YOU NEED IT: This is your equal-opportunity pot, a midsize workhorse with tall sides and a thick base that’s ideal for making everything from hard-boiled eggs to chocolate sauce.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR: The pan should feel a bit weighty (at least two or three pounds), but not so heavy that you need bulging biceps to lift it when it’s full. Make sure the handle is secure; it should be soldered or riveted to the base. A long handle—12 to 16 inches—is best, since it gives you more leverage and keeps your hands farther away from the action. The handle should be heatproof; before you buy, make sure it is. Get a tight-fitting lid to contain sauce splatters. (This may be sold separately.) Consider a pan with flared sides, called a Windsor pan. The sloping sides help facilitate evaporation and make it easier to stir sauces while you’re reducing them.

Frying pans (regular and nonstick)

WHY YOU NEED THEM: The wide surface of these pans (also called skillets or sauté pans) browns and crisps, making them good for searing salmon, pan-roasting chicken, stir-frying vegetables, and sautéing almost anything.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR: You’re going to need two of them—one stainless steel and one nonstick. The untreated surface works better for browning meat and caramelizing onions. (A nonstick surface prevents that yummy, sticky crust from forming.) But when you want your grilled cheese or omelet to slide out of the pan without using a ton of oil? That’s when you need the slick coating. Buy pans that are 10 to 12 inches in diameter so that ingredients aren’t crowded together.

Casserole dish

WHY YOU NEED IT: Because it’s not just for casseroles. This is your brownie pan, your lasagna pan, and your chicken Parmesan holder. You can also nestle a whole chicken or a pork loin in it for roasting.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR: The standard 9 by 13 inches with slightly curved corners and sides about 3 inches high. Glass, ceramic, and aluminum are all good choices for material. Short handles on each side aren’t necessary but can make gripping the pan with oven mitts a little easier.

Rimmed baking sheet

WHY YOU NEED IT: You can use it for cookies and so, so much more. Also called a sheet pan or a jelly roll pan, this is what you’ll use for roasting a bunch of asparagus, chicken thighs, or salmon filets.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR: Baking sheets are typically aluminum. Choose one that feels thick and sturdy, not flimsy, and has short sides (about one inch) all around. It helps to have two if, say, you’re roasting a big batch of vegetables or you want to make several dozen cookies. Be sure that a full pan will fit in your oven. If you have a small oven, consider buying half-sheet pans, which are smaller but still fit 3 to 4 chicken breasts or some potato wedges.

EXTRA CREDIT:
Dutch oven

WHY YOU NEED IT: Well, technically, you don’t. Dutch ovens are more expensive than run-of-the-mill pots, but they’re useful (and, let’s be honest, pretty). A Dutch oven is perfect for braising a tough, inexpensive cut of meat—in effect self-basting the meat until it’s fork-tender. It also makes a nice presentation for soups and stews, since you can take the pot straight from stove to table. One less dish to wash!

WHAT TO LOOK FOR: Make sure it’s cast-iron. The finish will be either matte black or colorful and enameled—guaranteed to match your apron/dish towels/typography print hanging above the sink. Sizes vary, but if you’re going to invest in a Dutch oven, buy one that’s big enough to fit a medium-size roast—something similar in size to your pasta pot.

 

Choose your tools wisely

In an ideal world (or perhaps the one conjured up by the CB2 catalog), you would have every kitchen doohickey your heart desires. In this world, you have a limited budget—and limited (if any) drawer space. So opt for the ones that you can’t get through a week of dinners without.

image BOX GRATER. Whether you’re grating cheese for quesadillas or carrots for cake, a sturdy, stand-up box grater with various-size holes will come in handy. Watch your knuckles!

image CAN OPENER. Find a model that cuts around (not into) the edge of the can so there are no scary or scarring sharp edges left behind.

image COLANDER. Choose one with short, heat-safe handles on each side, so you can shake the water from spaghetti without oven mitts. Also good for rinsing lettuce for salad (especially since salad spinners are space hogs).

image CUTTING BOARDS. Buy two: one synthetic, for handling raw chicken and stinky garlic (synthetic is easier to clean), and one wood. A wood cutting board is less likely to dull knives, wipes up with soap and water, and looks spiffy.

image MEASURING CUPS, DRY. A simple, solid stainless-steel set will see you through years of baking adventures. Avoid the cutesy (and not as accurate) ones shaped like cupcakes or cats.

image MEASURING CUP, LIQUID. Get a 2-cup (1-pint) measuring cup made of tempered, microwave-safe glass, and use it for everything from melting butter to measuring oil for brownies.

image MEASURING SPOONS. Again, metal ones are easy to work with. Look for a set with slender mouths, which are more likely to fit into little spice jars.

image MEAT THERMOMETER. Determining if your chicken is fully cooked is really hard without X-ray vision. Fortunately, a thermometer can solve the mystery. Get a digital model; it’s easier to read than a dial.

image MICROPLANE. This long, slim tool takes up almost zero space and is indispensable for zesting a lemon or grating nutmeg.

image PEELER. A swivel or Y-shape peeler will strip apples or cucumbers equally well, so pick the design that you prefer. Get one with a comfy grip.

image SPATULA, METAL. Opt for a model with a 6-inch metal surface that’s flexible, so it can slide under cod fillets, flip pancakes or fried eggs, and lift delicate cookies in one piece.

image SPATULA, NONSTICK. Don’t scrape the bottom of a nonstick pan with a metal tool; it will scratch the coating. Instead, use a flexible nonstick version.

image SPATULA, RUBBER. Yet another spatula? Yes, sorry. A large one is perfect for scraping down frosting from the side of a mixing bowl.

image SPOON, METAL. For stirring stews, scraping up burned bits from the bottom of a pan, spooning juice over a roast, or scooping macaroni and cheese. Find one that feels sturdy and looks streamlined enough to use as a serving spoon.

image SPOON, SLOTTED. Is the penne cooked? Well, you’ll need to fish one out for taste-testing. That’s what a slotted spoon is for—not to mention removing blanched vegetables from hot water and serving fruit salad without too much juice. Look for one with a wide head.

image SPOONS, WOODEN. These are both strong (you can mix thick batters) and gentle (they won’t scratch nonstick surfaces). Get two: one round and one with a flat or squared edge for scraping the edges of pans.

image TONGS. These babies pinch, poke, flip, and toss hot food Nonstick tips are gentler to food and pans.

image WHISK. Choose wire, rather than less sturdy silicone versions, for whisking dressings, stirring batters, and whipping cream.

image WINE OPENER. A no-nonsense tool with a fold-out foil cutter, a corkscrew, and a notched lever to help lift out the cork. Classic and cheap.

SHARP ADVICE ON KNIVES

CHEF’S KNIFE. This is the all-purpose knife that you’ll use for everything from slicing skirt steak to chopping onions. Like a reliable pair of walking shoes, it should feel comfortable—weighty in your hand but not too heavy to maneuver. An 8-inch blade is the most manageable and versatile.

PARING KNIFE. The cute one! This has a small (3- to 4-inch) blade that you’ll use for coring a strawberry, slicing limes for gin and tonics, and peeling an apple slice.

BREAD KNIFE. Also known as a serrated knife, this blade (about 8 inches) is narrow and rectangular—no pointed tip—with a scalloped edge that can grip the crust of bread and saw through more cleanly than a smooth blade. You’ll also need it to cut through the slick skins of tomatoes.

8 KITCHEN GADGETS YOU REALLY DON’T NEED

ICE CREAM SCOOP. Mint chocolate chip tastes just as good scooped with a spoon.

MINI CHOPPER. It has a lot of parts that are a pain to clean, and it takes up valuable space. Use your chef’s knife to chop onions.

MEAT TENDERIZER. Excellent at getting out stress but not essential. The bottom of a heavy saucepan works just as well (for the stress, too).

MANGO SLICER. It’s big, bulky, and unnecessary. You can peel a mango with a paring knife or a peeler and slice the flesh off in slabs around the big, flat pit.

AVOCADO SLICER. See above (big, bulky, unnecessary). You can halve an avocado and remove the pit with a chef’s knife; use a spoon to scoop out the flesh.

APPLE CORER. A stray seed or a tough piece of core won’t hurt you. Use a knife.

MELON BALLER. Honestly, your friends won’t be offended if your fruit salad contains cubes instead.

MORTAR AND PESTLE. Think you’re going to grind your own spice blends? You’re not.

 

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Kitchen secrets: How to avoid common cooking mistakes

You navigated the crowded grocery store, splurged on the lamb, and narrowly avoided your ex in the cereal aisle. Don’t let that hard work go to waste by overcrowding your frying pan. Study these scenarios to hone your, er, chops and be a more confident cook.

THE MISTAKE: Overcrowding the pan

WHY IT’S BAD: Most of us pile chicken breasts into one skillet or heap oven fries onto a single baking sheet if we’re in a hurry or we want fewer dishes to wash. But when a pan is stuffed, the heat that rises from the cooking surface becomes trapped under the food and creates steam, making oven fries limp and preventing chicken breasts from getting that desirable caramelized crust.

DO THIS INSTEAD: To help ingredients brown (which gives food flavor and locks in moisture), make sure the pieces aren’t touching one another in the pan. Patting damp food dry with a paper towel before cooking also helps. Don’t have a large enough skillet or baking sheet? Cook in batches, keeping the first batch warm on a plate tented with foil while you prepare the second. Or use two skillets or baking sheets. (Switch the position of the baking sheets in the oven halfway through the cooking time.)

THE MISTAKE: Choosing lean ground beef

WHY IT’S BAD: Nothing is sadder than a dull, dry burger or meatball, which you’re virtually guaranteed to get if you use lean beef. Fat bastes the meat as it cooks, keeping it moist. When you opt for 90 percent lean ground beef, there’s less of the good stuff to make the food tasty.

DO THIS INSTEAD: Go with ground chuck, which is typically 80 to 85 percent lean. And don’t worry about the extra fat. A lot of it—as much as 15 percent—will drain off during cooking. So the 80 percent beef you start with can end up being closer to 90 or 95 percent lean, as long as you drain the fat from the pan. And as the fat drains, it loosens the interior structure of the meat, so you end up with a less dense and therefore more tender burger.

THE MISTAKE: Overmixing doughs and batters

WHY IT’S BAD: Going whisk crazy on flour activates the gluten, a protein that gives baked goods a firm and elastic structure—delicious in a chewy pizza crust but less so in a birthday cake.

DO THIS INSTEAD: Go slow and gentle. When adding dry ingredients to cookie and cake batters, use the lowest speed on an electric mixer or mix by hand until just combined. A few lumps in the batter are fine. For piecrust, whether you use a food processor or mix by hand, work the dough as little as possible. Visible bits of butter and streaks of flour are what you want.

THE MISTAKE: Cooking with a cold pan—and cold oil or butter

WHY IT’S BAD: A hot pan and oil bond to create a surface that’s virtually nonstick. If neither is hot enough, those sautéed vegetables will adhere to the pan like glue, leaving you with a tough scrubbing job later on.

DO THIS INSTEAD: Heat an empty pan for at least 1 to 2 minutes. The pan is ready when you can hold your hand about 3 inches above it and feel the heat radiating from the surface. Then add the fat. Oil will shimmer when it’s hot; butter should melt and foam. One exception: If you’re using a nonstick pan to brown delicate foods, add the oil or butter before turning on the heat, since some nonstick pans release fumes when they’re heated up empty for an extended period.

THE MISTAKE: Searing meat over heat that’s too low

WHY IT’S BAD: A good steak-house sear requires a burst of heat so that the proteins in the meat cook quickly. If you keep your burner on low to medium, the inside of the steak will be done at the same time as the outside, with little browning.

DO THIS INSTEAD: Crank the heat up to medium-high or high and let the pan sizzle for a couple of minutes before putting the meat in.

THE MISTAKE: Adding garlic too early

WHY IT’S BAD: Garlic browns in less than a minute. If you add it to the pan with, say, chicken breasts, which need about 15 minutes to cook through, the garlic will scorch and turn bitter long before the meat is finished.

DO THIS INSTEAD: Whenever possible, use slices of garlic or smashed whole cloves, which are less susceptible to burning than minced garlic. (Use the minuscule pieces for sauces and salad dressings.) And add the garlic near the end of the cooking process. (The exceptions: long braises, stews, and sauces. The liquid will keep the garlic from scorching.) If a sauté recipe asks for garlic to be added at the beginning, have the remaining ingredients prepped so that you can add them quickly, before the garlic starts to burn.

THE MISTAKE: Tossing cooked pasta with oil to prevent sticking

WHY IT’S BAD: If you intend to add sauce, the oil will keep it from adhering to the noodles. Period.

DO THIS INSTEAD: To stop cooked pasta from clumping, toss it with a little sauce immediately after draining. Or, if you won’t be serving the pasta for 15 minutes or more, rinse it under cold water to remove the starch. Then, just before sitting down to eat, reheat the pasta directly in the pot of sauce.

THE MISTAKE: Turning meat too often or too soon

WHY IT’S BAD: Think of a wet sponge. The more you squeeze, prod, and touch it, the more liquid you expel. A pork chop is a lot like this. Also, if you don’t leave the meat in one place long enough, it can’t brown. You’ll wind up with a tough, gray chop and a wet pan.

DO THIS INSTEAD: Be patient. If you’re not sure whether a chop is ready to be flipped, nudge it or use tongs to lift a corner. It will release from the pan when the outside is sufficiently browned. If it sticks, let it continue to cook undisturbed and try again in a minute or so.

4 OOPS! THAT ARE NO BIG WHOOP

1 | YOU DIDN’T PREHEAT THE OVEN. You’ll have to tack on a few extra minutes of cooking time, but the taste won’t suffer much. Don’t try this when baking, though. Cakes and cookies must go into a hot oven to rise properly.

2 | YOU COARSELY CHOPPED INSTEAD OF FINELY DICING. You can get away with this as long as you cook everything long enough. Keep in mind that big chunks will change the way a dish looks.

3 | YOU DIDN’T LET THE MEAT REST BEFORE CARVING IT. Most chefs don’t recommend slicing a roast right out the oven, but doing so won’t destroy a meal. You will, however, end up with a lot of juice on the cutting board and a slightly gray dinner. When meat rests, the temperature equalizes and the juices spread throughout the meat. For cuts like pork chops, which are sliced on the plate, resting isn’t such an important issue, since a few minutes usually elapse before you sit down at the table to eat.

4 | YOU MEASURED DRY INGREDIENTS IN A LIQUID MEASURING CUP. The volume of a cup of liquid is 8 fluid ounces, and so is a cup of flour. The difference is that dry ingredients, like flour and sugar, mound. Dry measuring cups can be filled, then leveled off with a knife. But the line on a liquid measuring cup is below the rim, so you can’t even out the top, which makes it harder to get an exact measurement for dry items. Using a liquid cup for dry ingredients generally won’t ruin a dish. The exception is baking, which requires precision.

 

10 recipes anyone can make

You binge on episodes of Barefoot Contessa and devour blog posts at Breadtopia. But when it comes to your own kitchen, you’re cowed. Here are a few simple recipes to help you stop treating cooking like a spectator sport and get in the game yourself.

1 | A TASTY SMOOTHIE
Creamy mango shake

TOTAL TIME: 5 MINUTES | SERVES 1

Puree 1 cup frozen mango chunks, ½ cup of both low-fat or skim milk and plain yogurt, 1 tablespoon agave nectar, and a pinch of both ground ginger and salt in a blender until smooth.

2 | A HEALTHY BREAKFAST
Oatmeal with blueberries, sunflower seeds, and agave

TOTAL TIME: 10 MINUTES | SERVES 1

Prepare 1 serving quick-cooking or old-fashioned rolled oats. Top with ½ cup blueberries and 1 tablespoon sunflower seeds. Drizzle with 1 tablespoon agave nectar.

3 | A GRAB-AND-GO SNACK
Avocado toast

TOTAL TIME: 5 MINUTES | SERVES 1

Top 1 slice toasted whole-grain bread with ½ sliced avocado and salt. Mash lightly with a fork. Drizzle with ½ tablespoon olive oil and ½ teaspoon lemon juice. Sprinkle with red pepper flakes.

4 | LUNCH AT YOUR DESK
Chopped salad with lemon-pepper buttermilk dressing

TOTAL TIME: 20 MINUTES | SERVES 6 (LEFTOVERS!)

Whisk together ¼ cup buttermilk, 2 tablespoons mayonnaise, 1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest, 1 tablespoon lemon juice, 1 tablespoon chopped chives, 1 tablespoon chopped parsley, and salt and pepper. Combine 1 chopped small head romaine, 4 radishes (cut into wedges), 1 pint halved cherry tomatoes, 1 chopped bell pepper, ½ sliced small red onion, ½ chopped cucumber, and ½ cup garbanzo beans or shredded, cooked chicken. (If toting this to work, stow dressing separately to avoid wilted greens.)

5 | LUNCH AT HOME
Butternut squash and bean tacos

TOTAL TIME: 25 MINUTES | SERVES 4

Cook 1 butternut squash (cut into ½-inch pieces), ½ teaspoon ground cumin, and salt and pepper in 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat until almost tender, 11 to 13 minutes. Add 1 15.5-ounce can black beans (rinsed) and ¼ cup water. Cook until warm, 1 to 2 minutes. Divide the squash mixture, ½ sliced small red onion, and 4 ounces crumbled goat cheese (about 1 cup) between 8 warmed corn tortillas. Serve with torn parsley and lime wedges.

6 | DINNER WITH YOUR PICKY ROOMMATE
Bucatini with marinara and ricotta

TOTAL TIME: 20 MINUTES | SERVES 4

Cook ¾ pound bucatini. Cook 2 chopped cloves garlic in ¼ cup olive oil in a large pot over medium heat until fragrant, 15 seconds. Add 1 28-ounce can whole peeled tomatoes (crush them by hand first); add salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until thickened, 14 to 16 minutes. Toss with the pasta. Serve with ricotta and basil leaves.

7 | DINNER WITH YOUR CLEANSE-CRAZY PAL
Kale, lemon, artichoke, and caper fish packet

TOTAL TIME: 30 MINUTES | SERVES 4

Place 4 cups packed torn kale; 4 6-ounce pieces boneless, skinless cod, salmon, or bass; 1 sliced lemon; 1 cup halved artichoke hearts; ¼ cup olive oil; and salt and pepper on 4 large pieces of foil, dividing evenly. Fold the foil over and seal to form packets. Bake, on a baking sheet, at 425° F until the fish is opaque throughout, 12 to 14 minutes. Open the packets and top with capers.

8 | DINNER WITH YOUR PARENTS
Roast chicken with vegetables and pesto

TOTAL TIME: 1½ HOURS | SERVES 4

Toss 4 pounds bone-in, skin-on chicken pieces (about 8 pieces), 1 pound small carrots (peeled and halved) or other root vegetable, 3 tablespoons olive oil, and salt and pepper on a large rimmed baking sheet. Roast at 400° F until the vegetables are tender and the chicken is cooked through and registers 160° F, 50 to 65 minutes. Serve with pesto (store-bought is fine).

9 | DINNER WITH YOUR SIGNIFICANT OTHER
Pork cutlets with sautéed mustard greens

TOTAL TIME: 30 MINUTES | SERVES 4

Combine 1 chopped cucumber, 1 sliced red chili, 2 tablespoons rice vinegar, 1 teaspoon sesame seeds, 1 tablespoon canola oil, and salt. Pound 4 boneless pork cutlets (about 1 pound total) to a ¼-inch thickness. Season with salt and pepper. Dip in 2 beaten large eggs, then in 1 cup all-purpose flour, then in 1 cup panko bread crumbs. Fry, in batches, in 4 tablespoons canola oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat until golden, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Transfer to a plate; reserve the skillet. Add 1 bunch stemmed and torn mustard greens and 2 tablespoons water to the reserved skillet. Cook, tossing, until just wilted, 2 to 3 minutes. Toss with the cucumber mixture. Serve the pork with the salad.

10 | DINNER WITH BENEDICT CUMBERBATCH (HIM ON THE LAPTOP, YOU ON THE COUCH)
Classic margherita pizza

TOTAL TIME: 40 MINUTES | SERVES 4 (OR 1 IF YOU’VE HAD THAT KIND OF WEEK)

Shape 1 pound pizza dough (at room temperature) into 4 rounds and place on 2 oiled baking sheets. Brush with 1 tablespoon olive oil. Dividing evenly, top with 1 cup marinara sauce, 8 ounces sliced fresh mozzarella, 1 ounce grated Parmesan (about ¼ cup), and salt and pepper. Bake at 450° F until golden, 16 to 18 minutes. Drizzle with olive oil. Top with basil leaves.

 

The microwave is sexier than you think

If you’ve used this magical appliance only to nuke leftover kung pao, it’s time to heat things up.

USE IT TO…

1 | SOFTEN BUTTER
Place cut-up butter in a microwave-safe bowl. Microwave on low (power level 3) in 20-second intervals, checking in between.

2 | MELT BUTTER
Place cut-up butter in a microwave-safe bowl. Microwave on medium (power level 5) in 30-second intervals, checking in between.

3 | MELT CHOCOLATE
Place chopped chocolate in a microwave-safe bowl. Microwave on high (power level 10) in 30-second intervals, stirring in between.

4 | SOFTEN CREAM CHEESE
Place cut-up cream cheese in a microwave-safe bowl. Microwave on high (power level 10) for 15 to 20 seconds.

5 | SOFTEN ICE CREAM
Remove the top and the liner (if any) from the carton. Microwave on high (power level 10) in 10-second intervals, checking in between, until the ice cream reaches the desired consistency.

6 | SOFTEN BROWN SUGAR
Place sugar in a microwave-safe bowl and sprinkle with 1 teaspoon water (regardless of the quantity of sugar). Cover and microwave on low (power level 3) in 1-minute intervals, tossing in between, until soft, 4 to 5 minutes.

7 | WARM TORTILLAS
Wrap tortillas in a damp paper towel. Microwave on high (power level 10) for 40 seconds.

8 | WARM MAPLE SYRUP
Place syrup in a microwave-safe measuring cup. Microwave on high (power level 10) in 15-second intervals, checking in between.

9 | TOAST FRESH BREAD CRUMBS
Spread ½ cup fresh bread crumbs on a microwave-safe plate. Microwave on high (power level 10) in 1-minute intervals, tossing in between, until beginning to turn golden, 2 to 3 minutes.

10 | TOAST COCONUT
Spread ½ cup shredded coconut on a microwave-safe plate. Microwave on high (power level 10) in 1-minute intervals, tossing in between, until beginning to turn golden, 2 to 3 minutes.

11 | TOAST PINE NUTS AND SLICED ALMONDS
Spread nuts on a microwave-safe plate. Microwave on high (power level 10) in 1-minute intervals, tossing in between, until beginning to turn golden, 4 to 5 minutes.

12 | COOK BACON
Sandwich 6 slices of bacon between 2 double layers of paper towels. Place on a microwave-safe plate. Microwave on high (power level 10) until cooked through, 4 to 5 minutes.

13 | STEAM ASPARAGUS AND GREEN BEANS
Place 1 pound of trimmed asparagus or green beans in a microwave-safe baking dish with 1 tablespoon water. Cover and microwave on high (power level 10) until tender, 3 to 4 minutes. Uncover immediately.

14 | STEAM CARROTS
Place 1 pound thinly sliced carrots in a microwave-safe baking dish with 1 tablespoon water. Cover and microwave on high (power level 10) until tender, 4 to 6 minutes. Uncover immediately.

15 | STEAM ARTICHOKES
Place 2 trimmed artichokes in a deep microwave-safe baking dish with 1 tablespoon water. Cover and microwave on high (power level 10) until tender, 10 to 12 minutes.

16 | COOK WINTER SQUASH
Cut squash in half lengthwise and scrape out seeds. Place cut-side down in a microwave-safe baking dish. Microwave on high (power level 10) until tender and easily pierced with a paring knife, 10 to 13 minutes for a medium (3-pound) butternut or spaghetti squash; 6 to 8 minutes for a medium (1½-pound) acorn squash. Let stand for 5 minutes.

17 | BAKE A POTATO
Rub a potato with olive oil and place on a microwave-safe plate. Microwave, uncovered, on high (power level 10) until tender and easily pierced with a paring knife, 12 to 14 minutes.

18 | COOK CORN ON THE COB
Place unshucked corn on a microwave-safe plate. Microwave on high (power level 10) for 6 minutes. Let stand for 5 minutes. Carefully remove husks and silk.

19 | POACH SALMON
Season pieces of skinless salmon fillet with salt and pepper and place in a shallow microwave-safe baking dish with 2 tablespoons white wine vinegar or rice vinegar (to add flavor) and enough water to reach halfway up the fish. Cover and microwave on high (power level 10) until the fish is opaque throughout, 3 to 4 minutes. If the fish is not fully cooked, microwave, covered, on high in 45-second intervals. Remove from liquid and serve.

20 | COOK RICE
In a microwave-safe baking dish or medium bowl, combine 1 cup long-grain white rice, 2 cups water, and ½ teaspoon salt. Microwave, uncovered, on high (power level 10) until the rice is tender and the liquid is absorbed, 15 to 18 minutes.

21 | MAKE POPCORN
Place ½ cup popcorn kernels in a large microwave-safe bowl with 1 tablespoon olive or canola oil. Cover with a microwave-safe plate and microwave on high (power level 10) until the majority of the kernels have popped, 3 to 5 minutes.

IF YOU DO ONLY ONE THING…

ELLIE KRIEGER is a cookbook author, most recently of Weeknight Wonders: Delicious Healthy Dinners in 30 Minutes or Less.

 

Your seasonal guide to (almost) everything

Strawberries? Check. Sweet potatoes? Check. Squash? Three kinds. Buying produce when it’s in season means it tastes better and usually costs less. This list gives you the dirt on when things grow—plus learn how to choose the best specimens, store them, and use them up.

SUMMER
Arugula

WHAT TO LOOK FOR: Fresh arugula has long, firm, bright green leaves. Larger leaves are more peppery than small ones. Holes, tears, and yellowing edges are signs arugula is past its prime. If you can, buy bunches with the roots intact; this helps retain freshness.

HOW TO STORE: If the roots are still on, wrap the stems in a moistened paper towel and place in a plastic bag in the vegetable drawer. Keep loose leaves in the clamshell packaging or a plastic bag.

FRESH IDEA: Arugula tends to be gritty, so rinse the leaves thoroughly. The greens are at their best in salads: Drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil and lemon juice and top with shaved Parmesan, salt, and pepper.

Basil

WHAT TO LOOK FOR: Look for whole, smooth leaves that are aromatic, bright green, and free of black spots.

HOW TO STORE: Basil does best at room temperature. Trim the bottoms of the stems (or don’t, if the roots are still attached) and place in a few inches of water in a sturdy glass, vase, or jelly jar—as you would a bunch of flowers. Keep out of sunlight.

FRESH IDEA: Mix chopped basil leaves and fresh lemon juice into mayonnaise. Serve with grilled shrimp, roasted potato wedges, or cut-up raw vegetables.

Beets

WHAT TO LOOK FOR: Smooth, blemish-free dark red or golden yellow skins. If you want to cook any attached leaves, make sure they’re bright green.

HOW TO STORE: Before you refrigerate, separate the beets from the leaves. To keep the beets dry, store them and the leaves, unwashed, in separate plastic bags in the vegetable drawer.

FRESH IDEA: Small, young beets are revelatory when grated raw in salads. (Beet juice can stain, so now is the time to pull out that apron.) Steam, boil, or roast them at 400° F for 45 minutes; slice and top with goat cheese, olive oil, and balsamic vinegar.

Bell peppers

WHAT TO LOOK FOR: Red peppers are mature green peppers. Yellow and orange peppers are different, sweeter varieties. You want shiny, unblemished, wrinkle-free skins, regardless of color.

HOW TO STORE: Refrigerate peppers, unwashed, in a plastic bag in the vegetable drawer. Keep them dry, as moisture will eventually cause them to rot.

FRESH IDEA: Peppers are delish grilled, baked, or sautéed. Roasting makes them smoky. Insta-dinner: Cook a box of couscous and stir in 1 diced bell pepper, a can of chickpeas, 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar, and salt and pepper.

Berries

WHAT TO LOOK FOR: Blackberries and raspberries should have a rich hue; blueberries should be a little frosty white. Check all fruit for mold, and inspect containers for stickiness or stains.

HOW TO STORE: Place unwashed raspberries and blackberries in a single layer on a plate, cover loosely, and store in the refrigerator. Blueberries are sturdier, so leave them in their container.

FRESH IDEA: For a sweet-tart breakfast: Top a small dish of fresh ricotta with a mix of blueberries, blackberries, and raspberries; drizzle with honey; and sprinkle with toasted almonds.

Chard

WHAT TO LOOK FOR: Chard is typically classified by the color of the stems—red, white, green, or rainbow (a combination of colors). Look for crisp, crinkly green leaves; avoid ones with spots or holes. The smaller the leaves, the sweeter the taste.

HOW TO STORE: Refrigerate chard, unwashed, in a plastic bag in the vegetable drawer.

FRESH IDEA: Stir chard into stews and soups, or blanch or sauté it, like spinach. Bear in mind: Small leaves can be cooked with the stems attached. Larger leaves have tougher stems, so separate them and give the stems a few minutes’ head start when cooking.

Corn

WHAT TO LOOK FOR: Pull back the husk (just a bit) to check the quality of the ear. The kernels should be closely spaced, firm, and round. Look for grassy green, tightly wrapped husks. The silk should be glossy and pale yellow, the stem moist.

HOW TO STORE: Refrigerate ears unshucked in a bag.

FRESH IDEA: If the corn is very fresh, try tossing raw kernels with tomatoes, Feta, extra-virgin olive oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper for a simple side dish.

Cucumbers

WHAT TO LOOK FOR: Firm, dark green ones with no wrinkles or spongy spots. No matter the variety, smaller cucumbers contain fewer and tinier seeds.

HOW TO STORE: Because cucumbers keep best in temperatures just over 40° F, place them in a plastic bag on a shelf toward the front of the refrigerator, which tends to be warmer.

FRESH IDEA: Thinly slice 2 regular cucumbers (peel waxed cukes; lightly scrub unwaxed ones) and toss with 3 tablespoons rice vinegar, 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro, 2 teaspoons sesame oil, and a pinch each of sugar and salt.

Eggplant

WHAT TO LOOK FOR: Size matters. Eggplants are tastiest when they weigh less than 1½ pounds. Look for a smooth, shiny dark purple skin (a dull exterior indicates overripeness) and a green stem with leaves clinging to the top.

HOW TO STORE: Refrigerate in a plastic bag in the vegetable drawer.

FRESH IDEA: For an easy starter, brush ½-inch-thick slices with olive oil and grill for 2 to 3 minutes per side. Layer with sliced fresh mozzarella and top with extra-virgin olive oil, balsamic vinegar, salt, and pepper.

Stone fruits

WHAT TO LOOK FOR: Gently squeeze plums, peaches, and nectarines; they should yield slightly. Look for richly colored plums with no brown spots. Peaches and nectarines should have no green or wrinkly patches.

HOW TO STORE: Ripen stone fruits at room temperature, stem-ends down. A sweet, flowery smell means that peaches and nectarines are ripe and should be refrigerated, unwashed, in a plastic bag. Ripe plums have dull skins.

FRESH IDEA: Slice a peach or nectarine in half, coat it with butter and sugar, and grill for 2 to 3 minutes per side. Serve with ice cream and you’ve got a killer dessert.

Summer squash

WHAT TO LOOK FOR: Select brightly colored yellow squash and zucchini less than 8 inches long. Larger squash can be bitter.

HOW TO STORE: Refrigerate yellow squash and zucchini, unwashed, in a plastic bag in the vegetable drawer.

FRESH IDEA: Slice them thinly, sauté with chopped onions and fresh thyme, and serve with grilled steak.

Tomatoes

WHAT TO LOOK FOR: A deep color and firmness, with a little give. If they’re missing that sweet, woody smell, leave them behind. Check grape tomatoes for wrinkles, a sign of age.

HOW TO STORE: Keep tomatoes at room temperature on a plate; never store them in a plastic bag. If you want to speed the ripening process, put the tomatoes in a pierced paper bag with an apple, which emits ethylene gas, a ripening agent.

FRESH IDEA: In a large bowl, combine chopped tomatoes, thinly sliced garlic, olive oil, salt, pepper, and a pinch of crushed red pepper. Let sit at room temperature, stirring occasionally, for at least an hour. Toss with cooked pasta and chopped fresh basil. Dinner, done.

FALL
Apples

WHAT TO LOOK FOR: You want bright color, a shiny skin, and zero bruises. If you think the apple is shiny because it’s waxed, flick the skin close to the stalk. A dull sound means an apple is ripe; a hollow sound means it’s overripe.

HOW TO STORE: Apples do well in the fruit drawer of the refrigerator. At room temperature, they ripen quickly and become mealy.

FRESH IDEA: Homemade applesauce is the greatest: Core and roughly chop the fruit; leave the skins on. Add about ½ cup water and a small pinch of salt for every 4 to 6 apples. Simmer, covered, until very soft. Stir in cinnamon to taste.

Broccoli

WHAT TO LOOK FOR: Tight, compact florets that are dark green; the stalks should be slightly lighter in color. Yellowing broccoli is old and won’t taste good.

HOW TO STORE: Refrigerate broccoli unwashed (moisture speeds decay) in a plastic bag in the vegetable compartment.

FRESH IDEA: For a surprising slaw, combine chopped raw broccoli and red onion with a dressing of mayonnaise, sour cream, cider vinegar, and honey.

Brussels sprouts

WHAT TO LOOK FOR: Firm, compact heads with clean stem ends. They should be no larger than one inch in diameter. Any bigger and they’ll taste cabbagey.

HOW TO STORE: Keep them unwashed (moisture speeds decay) and tightly wrapped in a plastic bag in the vegetable compartment of the refrigerator.

FRESH IDEA: Need something to serve with your pork chops? Halve the sprouts and sauté them in olive oil over medium heat until tender, 7 to 10 minutes. During the last minutes of cooking, toss in 1 large clove of garlic, thinly sliced, and a handful of golden raisins.

Butternut squash

WHAT TO LOOK FOR: Pick a squash that is rock-solid and heavy for its size. A matte skin is ideal; a shiny finish is a sign that the squash wasn’t ripe when it was picked.

HOW TO STORE: Protect butternut squash from light and heat by storing it in a cool, dry place (not in the refrigerator).

FRESH IDEA: Halve, seed, and roast butternut squash at 400° F, cut-side down (to keep it from drying out). When it’s tender, scoop out the flesh and mash it with butter, a little nutmeg, salt, and pepper. A satisfying main.

Cauliflower

WHAT TO LOOK FOR: Compact white florets and bright green leaves. Avoid anything with a yellowish tinge or tiny spots of black mold.

HOW TO STORE: Refrigerate it unwashed in a plastic bag in the vegetable compartment.

FRESH IDEA: For a quick Monday-night dinner, toss cauliflower florets with olive oil, salt, and pepper and roast at 400° F until tender (about 25 minutes); let cool. Serve on salad greens with sliced red onion, crumbled Feta, chopped almonds, and your favorite vinaigrette.

Grapes

WHAT TO LOOK FOR: Plump, unblemished pretties firmly attached to a flexible stem. When ripe, green grapes should have a yellowish cast; red and purple ones should have no green. Buy organic if possible. Conventionally grown grapes can have a high amount of pesticide residue.

HOW TO STORE: Store grapes unwashed in a ventilated plastic bag in the refrigerator. They will shrivel and even start to ferment (not in a good way) at room temperature.

FRESH IDEA: A simple dessert: Fill a prebaked tart shell with vanilla pudding. Sprinkle with red and green grapes and chill. Dust with confectioners’ sugar before serving.

Leeks

WHAT TO LOOK FOR: White bottoms and bright green leaves. Avoid those with very dark green tops or rounded (rather than flat) bottoms, which can be signs that the vegetable is overgrown, old, or both. Smaller leeks are the most tender.

HOW TO STORE: Before storing, cut off and discard the tops, but keep the roots intact. Stow tightly wrapped in a plastic bag (to contain the aroma) in the refrigerator.

FRESH IDEA: Leeks tend to be sandy, so wash them well just before cooking. Try them braised: Halve them lengthwise and put them in a pot with enough chicken broth to reach halfway up their sides. Dot with butter and simmer, covered, until tender, about 10 to 12 minutes.

Mushrooms

WHAT TO LOOK FOR: Smooth, dry skins and tightly closed caps. Avoid any that are wrinkled, spotted, or slimy—all signs of age.

HOW TO STORE: Mushrooms need to breathe. Place them, unwashed, in the refrigerator in a paper bag or wrapped in a damp paper towel. Store them whole, not sliced, for the longest shelf life.

FRESH IDEA: Wipe mushrooms with a damp paper towel just before using. Never soak them or they will become mushy. For a quick, healthy side, cut them into quarters and sauté in olive oil until golden brown, 4 to 6 minutes.

Pears

WHAT TO LOOK FOR: Unlike most fruits, pears ripen best off the tree, after they’ve been picked. Buy specimens that are smooth, free of bruises, and firm. An unripe pear has a bright and shiny skin; a ripe one looks matte.

HOW TO STORE: Stand pears, unwashed, on their bottoms and let them ripen at room temperature. To speed up the process, place them in a paper bag until the flesh on the neck gives a little when pressed. Refrigerate ripe pears.

FRESH IDEA: For a sweet treat, poach them. Peel 4 ripe pears and simmer them gently in 1½ cups red wine and ¾ cup sugar until tender, about 25 minutes.

Potatoes

WHAT TO LOOK FOR: Few eyes or green patches—those are signs of prolonged exposure to light.

HOW TO STORE: Place them in a paper bag and stow in a well-ventilated, cool, dark place. Just don’t forget about them, because after a few weeks they can start to reek.

FRESH IDEA: Peeled potatoes turn brown when exposed to the air, so prepare them just before using. For creamy mashed potatoes, simmer peeled and quartered potatoes until tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Drain and mash with butter, milk, and sour cream. Mmm.

Sweet potatoes

WHAT TO LOOK FOR: Look for small to medium ones; large ones can be tough. You want a smooth, evenly colored skin without cracks or wrinkles.

HOW TO STORE: Keep them in a well-ventilated, cool, dark place, like a pantry or the bottom shelf of a cabinet (not on top of the fridge).

FRESH IDEA: It’s simple to bake them: Prick the skin with a fork, cover with foil, and place in a 400° F oven until tender, about 1 hour. Serve drizzled with maple syrup.

SPRING
Asparagus

WHAT TO LOOK FOR: Firm, straight stems and tightly closed buds. Avoid spears that are shriveled or wet or that have thick, woody stalks.

HOW TO STORE: Wrap the cut ends in a damp paper towel and store in a plastic bag in the refrigerator.

FRESH IDEA: Rinse to remove sand from the tips. Snap off or trim the bottoms (no need to peel). For an easy lunch, boil asparagus, then run under cold water to cool. Drizzle with olive oil and fresh lemon juice and sprinkle with chopped hard-cooked eggs and chives.

Baby lettuce

WHAT TO LOOK FOR: Be sure the leaves are whole and unbroken, with no signs of wilting or browning. Avoid loose leaf lettuces that appear wet; they decay quickly when moist.

HOW TO STORE: Keep unwashed greens in a plastic bag in the vegetable drawer. Don’t place them near apples or pears; they give off ethylene gas, which turns lettuce brown.

FRESH IDEA: Don’t get complicated. Simply dress with extra-virgin olive oil, salt, and pepper to let the flavor shine.

Cherries

WHAT TO LOOK FOR: A uniform color; a deeper red equals a sweeter taste. An exception is Rainier cherries, which have a creamy yellow and red exterior. Be sure that the fruit is plump and firm, with unblemished, glossy skins.

HOW TO STORE: Keep cherries unwashed in a bowl or an open plastic bag in the refrigerator.

FRESH IDEA: Pit them and toss them with fresh mint, then serve over vanilla ice cream for dessert.

Green beans

WHAT TO LOOK FOR: Smooth, bright green beans with velvety skins. Bend one in half to make sure it snaps; a bit of moisture at the breaking point shows freshness. If you can see the beans clearly through the pods, they were picked past their prime.

HOW TO STORE: To keep green beans moist, refrigerate them in a tightly sealed container.

FRESH IDEA: Drizzle them with sesame oil, soy sauce, and red pepper flakes and roast at 400° F for 10 to 15 minutes for a savory side.

Peas

WHAT TO LOOK FOR: Ripe snow peas should be light green and almost translucent, with tiny seeds. The pods of garden peas should be glossy, crunchy, sweet, and full of medium-size peas. Sugar snaps should be bright green with plump pods.

HOW TO STORE: Keep all varieties unwashed and loosely wrapped in plastic in the vegetable drawer. Leave garden peas in their pods until you’re ready to use them.

FRESH IDEA: Snow peas and sugar snap peas can be eaten whole after removing the stems and the strings. Garden peas should be shelled and blanched in boiling water just until they turn bright green (1 to 2 minutes). Try them smashed with olive oil, dill, goat cheese, and black pepper and spread on toast.

Radishes

WHAT TO LOOK FOR: No cracks, a firm texture, and crisp, bright leaves (if they are still attached).

HOW TO STORE: Remove the leaves. Refrigerate radishes in a loosely closed plastic bag.

FRESH IDEA: Just before using, trim the stems and the root ends and wash. Make like the French and snack on this: halved radishes served with soft unsalted butter and sea salt.

Scallions

WHAT TO LOOK FOR: Bright green tops and firm, white bases. A no-no: wet, wilted tops.

HOW TO STORE: Keep bunches unwashed and wrapped in a plastic bag in the vegetable drawer.

FRESH IDEA: Wash just before using and trim the roots. They’re great grilled whole: Season with olive oil, salt, and pepper and cook until tender (about 4 minutes).

Spinach

WHAT TO LOOK FOR: The crinkly leaves of savory spinach are more flavorful (though a bit tougher) than the flat-leaf variety. Whichever kind you choose, look for a deep, dark color and unbroken leaves with no signs of wilting or yellowing.

HOW TO STORE: Refrigerate spinach unwashed and loosely wrapped in a plastic bag.

FRESH IDEA: Chop off the root ends and thick stems, then swish the leaves in a bowl of cold water to rinse. Serve it raw, tossed with boiled egg, walnuts, oil, and vinegar.

Strawberries

WHAT TO LOOK FOR: Shiny, bright red, and fragrant = good. Bruised, withered, or brownish = bad. Also opt for smaller ones, since big berries tend to be less juicy.

HOW TO STORE: Wrap the container of remaining unwashed berries loosely in a plastic bag or paper towel and store in the refrigerator.

FRESH IDEA: Wash the berries and trim off the caps just before using. Top with freshly whipped cream. Or sprinkle with sugar and balsamic vinegar and serve with sliced pound cake.

WINTER
Acorn squash

WHAT TO LOOK FOR: A thick, hard skin and firm flesh. Look for one that is 6 to 8 inches in diameter, heavy for its size, and free of cracks and soft spots. (A lighter squash has less moisture and can taste drier.)

HOW TO STORE: Keep a whole acorn squash in a cool, dark, dry place. Leave the stem on until you’re ready to cook. Cut squash should be covered with plastic wrap and refrigerated.

FRESH IDEA: Cut the squash in half, scoop out the seeds and strings, and place the pieces cut-side down on an oiled baking sheet. Bake at 400° F until tender, about 30 minutes. Turn over, add a pat of butter and 1 teaspoon brown sugar to each side, and bake for 10 minutes more.

Cabbage

WHAT TO LOOK FOR: Tightly packed, crisp-looking, shiny leaves ranging in color from green to almost white. Avoid cabbages with yellow leaves, a strong smell, or a woody, split core.

HOW TO STORE: Keep a whole head of cabbage unwashed in a plastic bag in the refrigerator. Sliced pieces should be sprinkled with a few drops of water, placed in a plastic bag, and refrigerated.

FRESH IDEA: You can’t go wrong with homemade cole slaw. Shred 1 head of cabbage and toss it with ½ cup mayonnaise, ¼ cup sour cream, 2 teaspoons pepper, ½ teaspoon kosher salt, a pinch of sugar, and 2 tablespoons cider vinegar.

Citrus fruits

WHAT TO LOOK FOR: Ripe grapefruit and oranges are plump, firm, and heavy for their size, with shiny skins. Clementines should have a thin, glossy, deep orange peel; avoid clementines that feel hollow or dented. Lemons should be firm and heavy, with smooth (not pitted) skins.

HOW TO STORE: Grapefruit, oranges, and lemons last longest when wrapped in a plastic bag and stored in the vegetable drawer. Clementines are best kept in the refrigerator or in a cool, dry spot in a mesh bag or a basket so air can circulate around them.

FRESH IDEA: Try broiling citrus: Sprinkle the unpeeled fruit halves with brown sugar, then broil until the sugar is melted.

Collard greens

WHAT TO LOOK FOR: Brightly colored, plump, and crisp bunches. A strong odor means the greens are past their prime.

HOW TO STORE: Stow unwashed and wrapped in damp paper towels in a plastic bag in the vegetable drawer.

FRESH IDEA: For a super side: Sauté ½ sliced red onion in oil until soft. Add 1 bunch chopped collards and cook until almost tender. Stir in 2 teaspoons each brown sugar and cider vinegar and cook until tender.

Fennel

WHAT TO LOOK FOR: Big, round, clean bulbs with a bit of sheen. They should be white, with no cracks or browning. Larger bulbs are usually more tender than long, slender ones. Crisp stalks with bright, feathery greenery (called fronds) are a sign of freshness.

HOW TO STORE: Keep bulbs tightly wrapped and unwashed in a plastic bag in the vegetable drawer.

FRESH IDEA: Sprinkle cut fennel with lemon juice to prevent it from discoloring. For a salad, toss 2 thinly sliced bulbs with 2 tablespoons each lemon juice and olive oil, 1 ounce shaved Parmesan, and a little fresh thyme, salt, and pepper.

Kale

WHAT TO LOOK FOR: Richly colored, frilly, dark green leaves that have a little spring to them. Skip those that are yellowing or wilted.

HOW TO STORE: Keep kale unwashed in a plastic bag in the coldest section of the refrigerator, which is usually the back.

FRESH IDEA: Try adding 2 cups chopped leaves to a pot of soup. Simmer until tender, about 4 minutes.

Radicchio

WHAT TO LOOK FOR: A full, heavy head with crisp, richly colored leaves. Pass over smaller heads that feel light. Their compact size is often the result of having been repeatedly stripped of damaged outer leaves.

HOW TO STORE: Keep fresh heads unwashed in a plastic bag in the vegetable drawer.

FRESH IDEA: Grill it: Halve 3 heads and brush with olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Cook over high heat until slightly charred. Drizzle with balsamic vinegar.

 

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That’s the spirit

A tribute to the first truly adult drink of my life. By Rosie Schaap

I’D MADE MARTINIS for years before I ever tasted one. I tended bar when I was in college and always had at least a few regulars who were devoted martini drinkers. They were older, sharp, and dryly funny, with an urbane, seen-it-all manner I found immensely appealing.

Lacking any inherent sense of how a martini ought to taste, I’d mix their drinks to their specifications. They usually asked for dry martinis, so I’d make like Winston Churchill and just nod at the vermouth bottle in the bar while stirring the gin until it was bracingly cold, straining it into a cocktail glass, harpooning a few olives with a toothpick and lowering it in.

By 25, I was firmly a beer-and-whiskey girl. That felt just right to me: honest and unfussy but assertive. Which is interesting, because in most other respects I didn’t feel so confident. I was teaching English in New York City, plus working in a library—and nursing a broken heart. I didn’t feel quite up to the task of being a professional, grown-up person or of overcoming a soured relationship.

One night, after I’d already spent a few hours at my usual bar drinking Guinness, I said good night to the other regulars and headed home. It was late, and I was tired. But when I hit West Broadway, the bright red neon that spelled out ODEON above a bar and restaurant at the corner was a beacon: “Don’t go home,” the sign seemed to say. “Come here.”

I wasn’t sure I belonged there. The other customers looked glamorous—like they’d just come from a party in a nearby loft or a performance-art event. Still, I claimed a seat at the bar. I hadn’t thought about what I wanted to drink when the bartender asked me. As if compelled by some force outside myself, I blurted, “I’ll have a martini.” I didn’t say gin or vodka. I didn’t say olives or twist. I knew that whatever materialized in front of me would be just right. And it was: cold and clear and crisp, rendered with care.

That martini made me sit up a little straighter. It made me feel more self-possessed than my whiskey and beer. I felt as though I’d crossed an invisible border into adulthood, in a true and delicious way. I hadn’t seen it all yet, but maybe I would. And I told the handsome bartender about my heartache, too. “I don’t doubt for a sec that you’ll move on,” he said with a big smile. And that was true, too.

ROSIE SCHAAP IS THE AUTHOR OF DRINKING WITH MEN, A MEMOIR.

 

Wine 101

You’ve waited long enough—and read almost the entire chapter. It’s time we turned to wine. Devon Broglie, the master sommelier and associate global beverage buyer for Whole Foods Market, teaches you how to choose the right one.

How to decide “by the glass”

• Avoid famous names. It’s not that the heavyweights aren’t good—but because they’re in high demand, restaurants tend to mark them up.

• If you can swing it, opt for the second or third cheapest offering on the menu, not the cheapest. When a restaurant is putting together its list, it needs one low option. But that’s not necessarily the one they put a lot of thought into. It’s simply the least expensive that’s drinkable, says Broglie. “The second and third cheapest are the wines that the sommelier had to search out,” he says. “They’re usually pretty fun, a blend of value and quality.”

• Drink where you eat. A rule of thumb is wine and food from the same place tend to go together: Chianti with Italian food, an Argentinian Malbec with a big steak, a Loire Valley wine with French chèvre. That being said, if you love only Pinot Noir, don’t feel pressured to order Chianti with your veal scaloppine.

How to select a bottle

• Know what you like. (See the following page for some guidance.)

• Look at the label. “The person making the wine also signs off on the label. I find that the outside is a good representation of what’s inside. Old school–looking labels tend to be on old-school wines. Flashier labels tend to be flashier wines,” says Broglie, who has done blind taste tests on this theory. “If the label resonates with you, you’ll probably like the wine.”

• Ignore the year. Unless you’re buying at a high price point, it doesn’t matter.

• Opt for the top you prefer—cork or screw top. Your dad might have told you that screw-top bottles are cheap or tacky, but that idea is outdated. Broglie says a cork is preferable for a wine that is meant to age. Otherwise there isn’t much difference.

WHICH PINOT IS WHICH?

WHITE

CHARDONNAY: Very popular. A full-bodied wine. French Chardonnays are slightly crisper (think green apple). California versions are more ripe and juicy (more pineapple or mango).

SAUVIGNON BLANC: Generally, there’s a grapefruit flavor to this wine. In France, it’s more tart. In the U.S. and New Zealand versions, you find more melon and tropical notes.

PINOT GRIGIO: When you see this name, the wine should hail from Italy. A Pinot Gris, which is similar, can be from the United States, France, or other locales. Medium-bodied, peachy, and ripe, it falls between Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc in terms of acidity.

RIESLING: “Wine novices love Riesling because it’s a little sweet, and wine experts love it because it has incredible balance and complexity,” says master sommelier Devon Broglie. Stick with German bottles, where Riesling (pronounced Reez-ling) originated; look for the term kabinett or spätlese on the label.

RED

CABERNET SAUVIGNON: The most structure and body you’ll find in a red wine, with a more tannic (or astringent) finish, which is why you typically drink it with heavier dishes and red meat. French Cabernets will probably hail from Bordeaux (Broglie likes the Medoc region). For U.S. picks, look for Cabernets from California’s Napa or Sonoma Valley.

MERLOT: A bit less tannic than Cabernet, Merlot hails from the same places. France and California are the big producers.

PINOT NOIR: Pinot Noir is lighter and more medium-bodied compared with Cabernet and Merlot. It can be exciting and complex but can also cost more. France, California, and Oregon produce excellent bottles.

MALBEC: Lush like Merlot and full-bodied like Cabernet, without being too tannic or bitter. Argentina makes some of the best versions.

ROSÉ

Done right, a rosé should be dry, light, crisp, and refreshing—a perfect warm-weather drink. Rosés from the Provence region of France are popular, as are Pinot Noir rosés from California. Bonus: They’re usually inexpensive.

BUBBLES

Champagne comes from the Champagne region of France—and nowhere else. The specific way it’s made adds to the steep cost. Spanish Cava uses the same method but is much cheaper because it doesn’t have the fancy rep. Prosecco tends to be lighter, sweeter, and more effervescent. Stick with Italian ones from the Valdobbiadene region.

 

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The cheapster’s guide to cocktails

There’s a middle ground between vodka soda and the $18 artisanal potion you drank at that speakeasy last weekend. These classic recipes fall squarely in that zone. Each serves 4.

Gin and tonic

Stir 1 cup (8 ounces) gin and 3 cups tonic together in a pitcher. Serve over ice with a squeeze of fresh lime and a few slices of cucumber.

Gimlet

Combine 1 cup (8 ounces) gin or vodka with 1 to 2 cups Rose’s sweetened lime juice. (This is typically a strong drink with a 1:1 ratio; adjust as desired.) Serve over ice with lime wedges.

Whisky sour

Combine ⅔ cup simple syrup, ¾ cup (6 ounces) bourbon, ½ cup fresh lemon juice, and ½ cup fresh lime juice in a pitcher. Serve over ice with maraschino cherries.

Dark and stormy

Combine 2 cups (16 ounces) dark rum (such as Gosling’s Black Seal) and 3 cups ginger beer (such as Barritt’s or Gosling’s) in a pitcher. Serve over ice with lime wedges.

Rum punch

Combine ½ sliced fresh pineapple, 2 tablespoons fresh orange juice, 2 tablespoons simple syrup, 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice, ¼ cup brandy, ½ cup rum, 2 cups (16 ounces) apple cider. Chill at least 4 hours before serving.

Bloody Mary

In a large pitcher, combine 3 cups tomato juice, ¾ cup (6 ounces) vodka, ⅓ cup fresh lemon juice, 1 to 2 tablespoons prepared horseradish, 2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce, 1 to 2 teaspoons hot sauce (such as Tabasco), ½ teaspoon celery salt, and ¼ teaspoon black pepper. Divide 4 celery stalks and 4 pepperoncini peppers among the glasses and serve over ice.

Mimosa

Pour ¾ cup (6 ounces) cold, fresh orange juice into 4 Champagne flutes, dividing evenly. Top with ½ cup (4 ounces) cold Champagne or sparkling wine.

HOW TO MAKE SIMPLE SYRUP:
Whisk together 1 cup sugar and 1 cup warm water until the sugar is dissolved. Chill until ready to use.

IF YOU DO ONLY ONE THING…

GAIL SIMMONS, a special-projects director for Food & Wine (which is owned by Real Simple’s parent company, Time Inc.), famously judges chefs on Top Chef.