I learned to make lobster rolls at Howard Johnson’s in the 1960s, and I have always loved them. I buy them from small roadside stands along the Connecticut shoreline and also make them at home. For a change, I decided to show Shorey how to make them with shrimp. Any shrimp can be used, but I like to use the local pink shrimp that I can get in summer in Connecticut and Rhode Island. I have also had pink shrimp on Amelia Island in Florida. These shrimp are large (about 16 per pound), have a softer flesh than most, are quite flavorful, and cook very quickly. Other shrimp, or lobster meat, or even cooked fish fillets, can be substituted.
The shelled shrimp are sautéed in butter and seasoned with salt, pepper, minced scallions, and lemon juice. I first place lettuce leaves in the opened toasted buns so the lettuce holds the shrimp and buttery sauce and keeps the bread from getting soggy. I like the buns we always used at Howard Johnson’s—top-split hot dog buns, sometimes called New England buns or Philadelphia buns. These come attached to one another (usually about 8 to a package), so the sides are soft, not browned, like the insides of the rolls.
Serves 2
Heat the oven to 400 degrees.
Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil. Spread 1 tablespoon of the butter on both sides of the hot dog rolls and place in the oven to brown for 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, shell the shrimp and devein them, then cut them into 2 or 3 pieces. Melt the remaining 1½ tablespoons butter in a large skillet and cook until it is a hazelnut color. Add the shrimp, salt, pepper, and scallions and cook for about 45 seconds. Turn the shrimp over, cook them on the other side for 30 seconds, or until just cooked and opaque throughout, and take them off the heat. Add the lemon juice.
Spread the rolls open and line each with 2 lettuce leaves. Arrange half the shrimp in each roll. Pour the pan juices on top of the shrimp. Serve immediately.
To see how it’s done, go to www.surlatable.com/jacquespepin.
“The biggest difference between cooking with my mom, dad, and grandpa is the conversation. With my mom, I talk about life and my goals. My dad and I talk about things in the news, especially if they relate to math and science. My grandpa and I like to discuss school—and food!”
—Shorey