Fusilli with Chunky Fresh Tomato Sauce

This classic tomato concassée, a fast onion-and-garlic-seasoned tomato sauce, is cooked only briefly, really a matter of minutes, so it has a fresh, delicate taste. It’s perfect for pasta, and it’s also excellent as a topping for rice or with sautéed shrimp, scallops, or grilled or broiled fish, or even as a vegetable dish on its own.

The tomato paste adds color, texture, and flavor, especially useful out of season, when fresh tomatoes tend to be watery and bland. I suggest you use the paste that comes in a tube; you can squeeze out only as much as you need and then recap it so the remainder doesn’t dry out; it keeps for a long time in the refrigerator.

Makes 4 cups sauce; serves 6

• Sauce
• 2½ pounds very ripe tomatoes
• 3 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 onion (4 to 5 ounces), finely chopped (1 cup)
• 3 garlic cloves, crushed and very finely chopped (about 1½ teaspoons)
• 1 teaspoon herbes de Provence or fresh thyme leaves
• ¾ teaspoon salt
• ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• ½ teaspoon sugar
• 1 tablespoon tomato paste
• 1 pound fusilli
• ½ teaspoon salt
• ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• ½ cup grated Parmesan

For the sauce: Plunge the tomatoes into a pot of boiling water for 10 to 15 seconds. Drain and let cool for a few minutes. Peel off the skin (it will slide off) and cut the tomatoes crosswise in half. Squeeze the tomato halves gently over a bowl, pressing out the seeds and juice. Cut the tomato flesh into ¾-inch pieces and put them in another bowl. (You should have about 4 cups.) Strain the juices over the tomatoes; discard the seeds.

Heat the olive oil in a large skillet or saucepan (preferably stainless steel, to prevent discoloration). When it is hot, add the onion, garlic, and herbes de Provence and sauté for about 1 minute. Stir in the tomatoes, salt, pepper, sugar, and tomato paste. Bring the mixture to a strong boil, then reduce the heat and boil gently for 2 to 3 minutes. (The sauce can be used immediately or refrigerated until needed. It will keep for a couple of days.)

When you are ready to cook the pasta, bring 4 quarts salted water to a boil in a large pot. Add the pasta, stir well, bring back to a boil, and cook for 12 to 14 minutes, until firm but not too al dente.

Drain, then return to the pot, season with the salt and pepper, and mix well. Divide among four warm plates (I like soup plates) and ladle the sauce on top. Sprinkle with the Parmesan and serve.

“If I could make a meal for anyone, it would be for my Papi, in thanks for all the great food he’s made for me. I would make a roast chicken, salad, and pasta with garlic, butter, and cheese.”

—Shorey