One of the first desserts I remember is my mother’s flan au caramel, which is usually called crème caramel in French restaurants, or, in English, caramel custard. The flan was a staple in the small restaurants that she ran, where she made it individually or in a large gratin dish from which she dished out portions. The Spanish call this dessert flan as well, and my wife, Gloria, with her Cuban–Puerto Rican heritage, was very familiar with it when we first met. Shorey has enjoyed flan from age two or three, and she especially likes the version I make using some condensed milk, as it is often prepared in Spanish-speaking countries. No sugar is added to the mixture because the condensed milk is very sweet; add about ⅓ cup sugar if you make it with regular milk.
I make individual custards in small Pyrex custard cups, but any small molds will work. I use 1¼ cups whole milk and ¾ cup condensed milk. My wife enjoys the leftover condensed milk in her coffee. I cook the flan at a relatively low temperature for a long time, which produces a very smooth, creamy custard.
Serves 4
Heat the oven to 325 degrees.
For the caramel: Have four ¾-cup Pyrex custard cups or other small molds ready. Combine the sugar and water in a small saucepan; bring to a boil, and boil for 3½ to 4 minutes, until the mixture turns into a nice golden brown caramel. Immediately divide the caramel among the molds; it will harden in a few minutes.
For the custard: Beat the eggs in a bowl until smooth, then beat in the condensed milk, regular milk, and vanilla. Divide the mixture among the molds.
Place the molds in a large ovenproof skillet and add enough hot water to come halfway up the sides of the molds. Place the skillet in the oven and bake the custards for 1½ hours, or until the blade of a knife inserted into the center of the custard comes out clean. Remove from the water bath and let cool.
To serve, unmold the custards onto individual dessert plates, spooning any remaining caramel out of the molds. Serve with cookies, if desired.
To see how it’s done, go to www.surlatable.com/jacquespepin.