Plan 28 Ports and passage distances from Madeira to the Cape Verdes and West Africa
Making landfall on the Cape Verdes in good conditions. Visibility may be drastically reduced when the harmattan is blowing. Photo: Andy O’Grady
There are a number of possible routes and destinations on leaving the Canaries. The ARC fleet and many others take a relatively direct route across the Atlantic to St Lucia or one of the other Caribbean islands. Even on this route, it usually pays to head southwards to start with to pick up the trade winds, which makes the Cape Verdes an obvious port of call if you are not in a rush. For those who have a spirit for more adventure and who are happy to delay their crossing still further, a cruise to Senegal and The Gambia, either direct from the Canaries or via the Cape Verdes, will be a memorable part of an Atlantic voyage.
Both current and winds are likely to be favourable, with the latter becoming more reliable as you progress south. In the latitude of the Cape Verde Islands, the north-east trades blow all year round, but they are stronger in the winter when, funneled between the higher islands, they can reach gale force. In the summer months there are periods of light and variable winds and even some from south or south-east. There is no hurricane risk, though most of the storms that reach the Caribbean originate just to the west of Cape Verde. Air and sea temperatures are fairly constant throughout the year.
The harmattan is probably the mot significant weather disturbance to which the islands are subjected, mainly in the winter months. The harmattan wind blows off the African continent south of about 20°N and can carry dust up to 1000 miles offshore, occasionally right across the Atlantic Ocean to the Caribbean, dramatically reducing visibility and coating everything with a fine layer of red. At sea, whether or not visibility appears to be bad, if the wind is above 20 knots harmattan conditions should be suspected. Islands or other vessels may materialise out of an apparently firm horizon when only a few miles distant, so it is important to keep a good look-out.
The south-west-setting Canary Current swings further westwards by the latitude of the Cape Verde Islands. In summer, the influence of the Equatorial Counter Current may cause south- or south-east setting eddies between 10°N and 15°N, but by November or December these have usually retreated south of 10°N. Tidal range is only about 0.8m in the Cape Verdes, so tidal streams are generally slight. However, combined with ocean currents, and when constricted between the islands, the flow may reach over 3 knots.
Plan 29 Prevailing winds and currents off the coast of West Africa, 10°N to 35°N, during November. Based on information from The Atlantic Pilot Atlas
Senegal has earned a good reputation with visiting yachtsmen. The route from Cape Verde to Dakar is so well recognised that one of the transatlantic rallies sails this way. With the prevailing north-east wind this should be an easy reach, although more easterly winds can render the passage more difficult. If your aim is to visit Dakar but not The Gambia or the Casamance it may be wise to sail first to Senegal and then call in at the Cape Verdes on your way west.
Once clear of the Canaries, this is likely to be a fast downwind passage, possibly even a thrilling rollercoaster ride. It pays to stay around 100 miles off Cap Blanc, partly to avoid fishing activity, but also because winds tend to die down overnight closer to the shore. This coast is rich with sea life because of an upthrust of nutrients from the ocean floor, and it is common to be escorted by huge pods of dolphins and other marine mammals. The high nutrient levels are also illustrated by extraordinary levels of phosphorescence which turn the nocturnal activities of the dolphins into an unforgettable light show.
Most of the time, the weather in West Africa is fairly kind to small craft. The traditional cruising season for the region is November to May when the doldrums, which bring the rain, humidity and storms, are further south. During this period, the trade winds are at their strongest and the weather is cooler and drier. The harmattan occurs at intervals from November to March and can cause the visibility along the coast to be very poor. This makes traditional navigation difficult in a region where the coastline is low lying and lacking natural features. In contrast the visibility becomes spectacular in the rains, especially after a storm. The rainy season brings line squalls to the area. These may contain very strong winds, but are usually of short duration. They can normally be seen in time to reef.
When the trade winds are blowing strongly, there is an associated swell which, though uncomfortable, does not create a problem unless you are attempting to enter or leave a shallow river estuary.
Throughout the Cape Verdes and down the coast of West Africa, maintenance of navigation aids is poor and even the major lights cannot be relied upon. Buoys may still be in position but not be lit. It is also common for the positions of buoys to change. Do not trust even the most recent charts to be entirely accurate.
Cape Verdean mural. Photo: Andy O’Grady
The Cape Verdes are becoming increasingly popular as a holiday destination. They offer an almost unique opportunity to visit a successfully developing, independent African nation with a distinct culture and friendly people. There is plenty of cruising to be had within the islands and not every overseas boat comes here in November and December only as part of a transatlantic passage. Some come earlier in the year to spend the summer cruising around the 14 islands of the group. There are only three ports of entry (or departure) for the nation: Mindelo on São Vicente, Palmeira on Ilha do Sal and Porto da Praia (the capital) on Santiago. If cruising in the islands, it would make most sense to arrive at Palmeira which is the most windward port and carry on from there, probably to the south islands first and then reaching back to the north western group to end up at Mindelo.
Plan 30 Ports in the Cape Verde Islands
After years of receiving a bad press, the Cape Verde Islands are now recognised as an interesting port of call for Atlantic voyagers. The distance to the Caribbean is reduced by 700 miles if you leave from the Cape Verdes rather than from the Canaries. Porto Grande (also known as Mindelo) is an excellent natural harbour, a port of entry, and facilities for yachts have improved dramatically in recent years.
Looking northwest over Mindelo and Porto Grande. Photo: Andy O’Grady
The islands used to support some agriculture but over-exploitation, grazing by goats and deforestation turned all but the highest of the 14 islands into sandy wastelands. The sparse to non-existent vegetation ashore is contrasted by the rich marine life of the surrounding waters. The sea has always been important to their economy and, since the decline in agriculture, has become the cornerstone to any prosperity the islands have enjoyed. Since the days of Columbus they have received a large number of visits from foreign ships. First as a strategic stepping stone on the sailing route to the Americas, next as a coaling base for steamships and lately for their fishing grounds. Now yachtsmen are beginning to play their part in the economy of this little nation which is otherwise heavily dependent upon foreign aid.
Visitors often enjoy the music of Cape Verde. Morna is a home grown musical style, deeply rooted in African rhythm and themes but with a strong vein of Portuguese tradition and a fascinating mixture of voice, strings and drums.
Fish is abundant and superb. Fruit and vegetables grown on the higher islands are also plentiful. The local spirits make fine drinks and good Portuguese wine is cheaply available. Apart from the importance of stocking up for the long crossing ahead, the main market is well worth a visit just for the pleasure of it. Small local supermarkets also supplement the stores.
Plan 31 Porto Grande Mindelo, São Vicente, Cape Verdes
Most yachts will approach from the north through the Canal de São Vicente. The small and rocky Ilhèu do Pássaros [Fl (3) 13s 86m 14M] is in the entrance to the bay and can be passed on either side. Note that navigation aids may not be maintained and visibility may be significantly reduced during a harmattan. Old shipwrecks in the harbour are being removed, but care should still be exercised as there are many commercial ships and fish-holding pens that are not lit. A night entry is possible though not recommended. Entry to the marina can be complicated by strong surges and shear winds which can make manoeuvring difficult.
VHF Channel 09.
Mindelo Marina with the anchorage in the foreground. Photo: Andy O’Grady
Looking south-east over Porto Grande from the Harbour Master’s office. Photo: Andy O’Grady
The Cape Verdean authorities take entrance and departure formalities seriously, but undertake them quickly and efficiently. It is still necessary to clear in and out of each harbour visited in the Cape Verde islands. English and French are spoken by many officials. Make sure that you take evidence of departure from the islands with you if leaving for another country. Although a Yellow Fever Vaccination card may not be required in the Cape Verdes, it is likely that you will be asked to show it at subsequent ports of call.
Marina Mindelo is a very well-run, friendly, efficient marina, which is run in conjunction with a yacht charter business, BoatCV. More than 120 berths on six pontoons cater for vessels up to 30m (98ft) in length and 4.5m (14.5ft) draught, all bow or stern-to with a pick-up rope to a buoy. Most needs are catered for. Shore access is via the restored Cais d’Alfandega, with security gates both near the root of the jetty and onto the pontoons. Yachts can come alongside for metered water. BoatCV does not yet have a travel lift, but for those facilities that the marina cannot provide there are two shipyards, geared up for fishing boats and small ships but familiar with yachts over the years. In common with most marinas, proof of third party insurance is required.
Websites: www.marinamindelo.co
www.boatcv.co
Contact: CP 1191 – Cais Alfândega Velha, Mindelo, S Vicente,
Cape Verde. Tel: 991 5878/997 2322/2300032
E-mail: mail@marinamindelo.com
info@boatcv.com
Reservations: reserve@marinamindelo.com
The yacht anchorage is in the north-east corner of Porto Grande Bay, with good holding in sand. Depths of 5–6m (17–20ft) in the outer part of the anchorage shoal gradually towards the beach. There are no yacht moorings and the steel mooring buoys in the outer part of the bay should be avoided. Security in the anchorage is said to have improved, though the authorities require that someone is always on board at night. Construction of the marina has inevitably encroached on the anchorage, particularly as reasonable space needs to be left around it for yachts to manoeuvre. There is a dinghy dock at the marina for which a daily charge is made, but this includes rubbish disposal (for which high fees are charged on the island).
There are inter-island flights or ferries to Ilha do Sal from where there are regular international flights.
West Africa does not have the sort of facilities you will find in cruising grounds closer to home, making it all the more important that you, your boat and its equipment are in good order. As emphasised in Part I, self-sufficiency should be the guiding principle in all your planning. You will be over 800 miles down wind and tide of the nearest general chandlers. You will also be in a tropical environment where all forms of organic growth and corrosion will be much more of a problem.
You should also take seriously the potential health risks, particularly the threat of malaria. Ensure that you have had all the necessary vaccinations, including the Yellow Fever vaccination, and stock up with anti-malarials and antihistamine in case of reaction to bites. See Part I for more details.
Local fruit and vegetables are good and abundant in Senegal, but much less so in The Gambia and Guinea Bissau. It is generally harder to stock-up for an Atlantic crossing. The trick is to stock-up well in the Canaries, perhaps boost the stocks in the Cape Verdes and then wherever possible in Dakar and the bigger towns.
On a cautionary note; there are hippos in the rivers of West Africa and it is tempting to want to get as close to them as possible. They appear to wallow harmlessly. However, they can move surprisingly fast and can be extremely dangerous. It would be very unwise to approach closely in a small dinghy.
Dakar, the capital of Senegal, is about 850 miles from Las Palmas on Gran Canaria in the Canaries and about 480 miles from São Vicente in the Cape Verde Islands. It stands on a rocky promontory, and is the most visible landfall in West Africa. It is also the most westerly port on the continent. The Cap Vert light is 120m (394ft) above sea level and is visible up to 31 miles in clear conditions. The approach and entrance into sheltered water are straightforward. Yachts gather at the anchorage at Hann Bay which has a pleasant, laid-back feel to it. Ashore there is still a considerable French influence and a form of pidgin French is widely spoken. There are flight connections to France.
On arrival at any of the West African ports it is important to go ashore and find the relevant officials as soon as possible. The harbour master, customs officials and immigration officers will have an office and staff, usually in the main port. Checks against yachts which have not cleared the port’s authority are certainly carried out in Dakar; elsewhere it becomes less likely, but you leave yourself open to manipulation by pseudo-officials if you have not followed the expected procedures.
Looking over the anchorage at Baie de Hann, Dakar. Photo: Ed Wheeler
South from Dakar the coastline is low-lying and indistinct. River entrances tend to be shallow and may become dangerously rough if the swell is high. The tidal effects of the main rivers can continue for up to ten miles from their estuaries. The poorly maintained navigational aids make night entrances inadvisable. Some degree of overnight passage-making may be unavoidable, though the abundance of unmarked fishing nets and unlit pirogues surprisingly far out to sea are enough to jangle the nerves. The crew of the pirogues will occasionally flash a torch to warn of their presence. It is advisable to keep a good look-out.
It is about 95 miles from Dakar to Banjul, usually with wind and current behind you. It is preferable to leave Dakar in the dark and aim to reach Banjul in daylight. A heading of 160°M should allow you to pick up No 3 buoy on the River Gambia approach and take you well clear of the shallows off the coast. The Admiralty charts show a wreck close to this course at about 14° 08´N 17° 03´W. Allow for the tidal effects in your final approach – the stream runs very strongly in the lower reaches of the river and for several miles out to sea and will set you sideways very quickly. High Water at No 3 buoy is about half an hour before HW Banjul.
The River Gambia is an unforgettable cruising experience. It feels as if you are cruising into the heart of Africa. In fact Georgetown, which is as far as most cruisers venture, is only around 155 miles upriver but, if this is your first taste of inland Africa, it will feel more like a million miles from the familiar ocean.
Your first impression of The Gambia is likely to be the somewhat alarmingly dishevelled port area of Banjul and possibly a rather trying process of clearing in. But it is worth it! Within a few days you will have worked the tides up river into another world.
The Gambia is wrapped around by Senegal, so heading south you will once more enter French-speaking territory. Many French cruisers consider the Casamance to be the jewel in the crown of West Africa. It is not uncommon for cruisers to become seduced into prolonging a stay in this cruising ground and delaying the Atlantic crossing to the following year.
First impressions of The Gambia may be rather unappealing. Photo: Ed Wheeler
A short distance from Banjul but a world away. Lamin is a good place to unwind and settle into Africa. Photo: Ed Wheeler
