How to Make Dumplings
Preparing most types of dumpling requires only a work surface and rolling pin. However, there are some utensils that can make the task of preparing the wrappers for certain types of filled dumpling either easier or quicker, or both: among them a pasta machine, a ravioli cutting tray, a ravioli cutter and a zigzag cutter wheel. A colander or coarse grater can be useful for preparing German Spätzle or Hungarian nokedli.
Despite the fact that most pasta is bought dry or in vacuum packs, many Italian households still own a pasta machine. The sheets of dough produced using this method are smoother, more even and often thinner than if hand-rolled, and make ideal wrappers for homemade ravioli.
A ravioli cutting tray is a rectangular metal or plastic tray that usually has twelve or 24 indentations which are deep enough to hold small balls of filling and separated by zigzag edges. A sheet of pasta is placed on the tray and the filling spooned into each hollow. A second sheet of pasta is then laid on top of the first before pressure is exerted using a rolling pin to seal and cut the edges simultaneously. Cutting trays can be rather awkward to use, as the pasta can easily stick to the tray if the filling is even just slightly moister than it should be.
Common utensils for making dumplings include a rolling pin, a pasta machine, a ravioli cutting tray and a zigzag cutter wheel.
Filled dumplings can be made in different shapes: squares, circles and hearts are all common. While simple cookie cutters can be used, special ravioli cutters are available that differ by having a handle and, usually, a zigzag edge.
A zigzag cutter wheel is probably the simplest and easiest option for cutting dumplings, after a sharp knife. It is smaller than the cutting wheel used to cut pizza into slices, and has a zigzag blade that gives ravioli its typical toothed edge.
As boiled dumplings can easily fall apart, they must be handled with care. Skimmers or slotted spoons are helpful for draining them, especially the most delicate ones, so they do not break.
For steaming dumplings one can use Western or Asian steamer baskets made of metal or bamboo. Plastic steamers are also available for use in microwave ovens.
Wonton preparation with ready-made wrappers and bean paste filling.
Shaping, Filling and Folding Techniques
The shape and size of dumplings vary depending on whether they have a filling or not, and also according to the region, the cooking method and the skill of the cook. The illustration on p. 13 shows some traditional and common shapes.
Unfilled dumplings are usually quick and easy to shape, but the filling and folding of filled dumplings require a certain level of skill and a fair amount of practice. The following explanations and diagrams provide an overview of some of the techniques used in different parts of the world to obtain different types of dumpling.
The typical shape of many unfilled dumplings, including British floating dumplings and canederli from northern Italy, is a simple ball. To make a dumpling like this, fill your cupped palm with the dumpling mixture and with the help of the other hand roll it into a regularly shaped ball.
Regardless of the type of filled dumpling, there are a few tips that will most certainly come in useful.
The filling should be firm. Runny, wet fillings will cause trouble by:
– running from the centre to the edges of the wrapper, preventing them from sticking together;
– wetting the dough through and making it stick to the work surface and tray.
The dough should be worked long enough for it to become elastic.
The dough should be rolled into sheets as thin as required by the recipe or the wrapping will be too prominent and hard, even when thoroughly cooked through, and will detract from the flavour of the filling.
Just before folding the dough around the filling and pressing or pinching the edges together, it is useful to dip a finger in cold water and run it along the edges of the wrapper; this will prevent the filling from escaping during cooking.
Dumplings grow when boiled or steamed, so sufficient space should be allowed in the pan or steamer.
The Italian potato gnocchi and the smaller wheat-based pisarei are in the shape of a little lump, hollowed out with the help of a fork to make it lighter and more suited to scooping up the accompanying sauce. To make a dumpling in this shape, roll the mixture into a sausage and cut into equal pieces. One by one, gently push each piece against the concave face of a fork, creating a small indentation with your thumb at the same time.
Italian ravioli and German Maultaschen are among the filled dumplings with regular square or rectangular shapes. Place small balls of filling, the size of a hazelnut, on a sheet of thinly rolled dough, in horizontal rows a couple of fingers apart. Place a second sheet of pasta on top and press with your fingers around each ball of filling until the pasta layers are in contact. With a sharp knife or zigzag cutter wheel, cut decisively through the dough following the invisible grid to separate the dumplings. Finally, check the dumplings one by one to make sure the filling is completely sealed within the pasta.
Eastern European filled dumplings, including Russian pelmeni and Polish pierogi, often have a chunky half-moon or crested oval shape. Cut circles out of a thin sheet of dough using a glass or a large cookie cutter, and place a small ball of filling in the middle of each circle. For a chunky half-moon shape, fold the circle in two and pinch the edges together, creating an attractive pattern with your fingers. To make a crested oval shape, hold the half-moon dumpling by its ridge, roll it over by 90 degrees and gently push down until the dumpling sits on top of its own filling.
The typical shape of Italian tortellini, Chinese chāoshǒu (literally ‘crossed hands’) and some Ukranian varenyky is a ring, reminding one of a navel. Cut squares out of a thin sheet of dough using a sharp knife or cutting wheel. Place a small ball of filling in the middle of each square, then fold the square in two and press the edges together to seal the filling inside. Hold the dumpling in your left hand with your thumb lightly touching the top of the dumpling. With your right hand fold two corners together, then slide your left thumb out from underneath the dough.
Turkish manti and some types of Chinese wonton come in the shape of satchels or drawstring bags. Cut squares out of a thin sheet of dough using a sharp knife or cutting wheel. Place a small ball of filling in the middle of each square. Bring the four corners together and press the inner edges of the square firmly together to obtain dumplings in the shape of a parcel. For the look of a drawstring bag, slightly twist the top of the dumpling.
The typical shape of the Mongolian buuz is that of a dome with elaborate pleats at the top, around a steaming hole. The size, shape and number of folds largely depend on the skill and patience of the cook. Roll small pieces of dough into circles, and, holding each one in the palm of one hand, place a teaspoon of filling in the centre. Fold the edges at one end and press them together between your index finger and thumb. Make another fold next to the previous one and press the edges together. Continue along the dumpling, rotating it as you go. When the last fold is complete you should be left with a hole at the top, through which the steam can escape.
Broths, Sauces and Condiments
Unfilled dumplings are served in broth, in a stew or accompanied by gravy or a rich sauce. Stuffed dumplings, on the other hand, tend to be served with the simplest of sauces or dipping condiments. Chicken broth is a very popular choice of liquid in which to serve dumplings, but as a general rule the broth matches the filling, with seafood dumplings cooked and served in a fish or seaweed broth, and vegetable dumplings usually served in a vegetable broth. Accompanying sauces vary according to the type of dumpling and its size, shape and provenance. Italian vegetable dumplings are often served with sage and melted butter, while meaty ones can be accompanied by thick tomato sauces or meat and tomato ragú. In Central Asia dumplings are often covered in warm yoghurt flavoured with garlic and herbs, while in Central and Eastern Europe they tend to be served with a dollop of sour cream and sprinkled with fried onions. Asian dumplings, whether boiled or steamed, are often served with dipping sauces and condiments based on soy sauce or chilli oil.
Making Mongolian buuz: cutting the dough into even pieces; filling the dough; wrapping the filling; dumplings ready for steaming.
In many cuisines, colouring ingredients are added to the dough to give some colour to the wrappers. For example, colourful dumplings are served as part of lavish Chinese dim sum, and in Italy, around carnival time (just before the beginning of Lent), it is possible to find multicoloured harlequin dumplings made by sealing meat-based fillings between two layers of dough of different colours. The quantity of colouring ingredients varies according to the type and quality of the flour. If the colouring ingredient contains a certain amount of water, for example puréed spinach, carrot, beetroot or squid ink, more flour is needed than indicated in the usual recipe. Here are some ways to obtain colourful egg- and flour-based wrappers, based on a recipe that uses 200 g flour.
Green: 1 egg and 100 g fresh spinach, boiled, drained, squeezed and puréed or very finely chopped
Orange: 1 egg and 100 g carrots, boiled and puréed
Purple: 1 egg and 100 g beetroot or red cabbage, boiled and puréed
Pink: small eggs and a tablespoonful of tomato purée (paste)
Black: 2 small eggs and a sachet of squid ink
Yellow: 1–2 g saffron flowers or 1 tsp curry powder or turmeric, to be mixed with the flour before adding 2 medium eggs
Brown: a tablespoonful of dark (unsweetened) cocoa powder, to be mixed with the flour before adding 2 medium eggs
Green, red or black speckles: add to the dough a couple of tablespoonfuls of finely chopped herbs, such as rosemary, sage, coriander (cilantro) or parsley; some mild, deseeded chilli, finely chopped; or coarsely ground black pepper
