CENTRAL BERLIN: AROUND ALEXANDERPLATZ
The area around Alexanderplatz – “Alex” to locals – is one of the city’s oldest parts. It was here that the twin towns of Cölln and Berlin merged in the 13th century. The square defined the heartbeat of the city before World War II; after the ravages of war, it seemed vast and a little forlorn. The vibrancy described by Alfred Döblin in his novel Berlin Alexanderplatz, is only slowly returning. A short walk away is the city’s oldest coherent quarter – the 18th-century Nikolaiviertel – with its medieval Nikolaikirche.
1. Alexanderplatz
Mitte
The huge, largely desolate square in the centre of East Berlin, called “Alex” by Berliners, was one of the most vibrant places in Berlin before World War II – and no doubt it will be again some day. Alfred Döblin beautifully captured the rhythm of the city in his world-famous novel Berlin Alexanderplatz (1929). Not much remains today of the once frenzied atmosphere, although there is plenty of bustle around the Galeria Kaufhof department store. Alexanderplatz was originally a cattle and wool market. Not many of the prewar buildings have survived – only Berolinahaus and Alexanderhaus remain, next to the historic S-Bahn station Alexanderplatz, both dating back to 1929. The square was almost completely laid to waste in World War II, and most of the surrounding soulless tower blocks were built in the 1960s.
Alexanderplatz’s Neptunbrunnen with Marienkirche in the background
2. Berliner Rathaus
Rathausstr. 15 • (030) 902 60 • 9am–6pm Mon–Fri
Berlin’s proud town hall, the office of the Governing Mayor, is the political centre of power in Greater Berlin. It was built in 1861–9 to a design by Hermann Friedrich Waesemann on the site of an older town hall. The Rathaus was meant to demonstrate the power and the glory of Berlin, and the architect took his inspiration for the new building from Italian Renaissance palazzi. The building is also known as the Rotes Rathaus or Red Town Hall – not a reference to its Socialist past, but to the red bricks from Brandenburg province with which it is built (see also Berliner Rathaus).
Berliner Rathaus
3. Berliner Fernsehturm
Panoramastr. 1a • (030) 24 75 75 37 • Mar–Oct: 9am–midnight; Nov–Feb: 10am–midnight • Adm • www.tv-turm.de/en/
The 368-m- (1,207-ft-) high TV tower is the tallest building in Berlin, affording views of up to 40 km (25 miles). There is a viewing platform at 203 m (666 ft). The Sphere restaurant above rotates once around its own axis every 30 minutes. The tower, visible from afar, was erected in 1965–9 by the East German government to signify the triumph of their capital East Berlin.
4. Nikolaiviertel
Mitte • Knoblauchhaus: Poststr. 23 • (030) 240 020 171 • 10am–6pm Tue–Sun • Adm • www.en.stadtmuseum.de
Centred around the medieval Nikolaikirche, the small Nikolaiviertel quarter with its nooks and crannies, old Berlin restaurants and souvenir shops is one of the most charming parts of the city. The area extending between the banks of the Spree River and Mühlendamm was razed to the ground in World War II. East Germany restored it after the war, unfortunately not always successfully: some houses were covered in prefabricated façades. Knoblauchhaus was one of few to escape wartime destruction. Dating from 1835, it was the former home of the Knoblauch family (Neue Synagoge was designed by architect Eduard Knoblauch). Today it houses a museum depicting everyday life in Berlin, and includes a fully furnished apartment in the Biedermeier style.
Buildings in the Nikolaiviertel
5. Märkisches Museum
Am Köllnischen Park 5 • (030) 24 00 21 62 • 10am–6pm Tue–Sun • Adm • www.en.stadtmuseum.de
Berlin’s municipal museum holds artifacts relating to the city’s culture and history, including architectural treasures such as doorways and the head of one of the horses from the top of the Brandenburg Gate. There is also a Gothic Chapel room with a collection of medieval sculptures.
Märkisches Museum
6. Marienkirche
Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 8 • (030) 242 44 67 • 10am–6pm Mon–Sat, noon–6pm Sun
Originally built in 1270, Marienkirche was extensively remodelled in the 15th century. Thanks to its Baroque church tower, it is one of Berlin’s loveliest churches. Inside, the alabaster pulpit by Andreas Schlüter (1703) and the main altar (1762) are highlights. The 15th-century Gothic font and a 22-m (72-ft) long fresco from 1485, Der Totentanz (The Dance of Death), are its two oldest treasures. The church is now the only reminder of the once densely built-up historic city core here (see Marienkirche).
7. Marx-Engels-Forum
This public park was founded by East German authorities shortly after German reunification in 1989. The words “Next time it will all be different” were scrawled onto the bronze monument to Friedrich Engels and Karl Marx, the fathers of Socialism, erected in 1986.
8. Ephraim-Palais
Poststr. 16 • (030) 24 00 21 62 • 10am–6pm Tue & Thu–Sun, noon–8pm Wed • Adm • www.en.stadtmuseum.de
This Rococo palace, built in 1766 for the merchant, court jeweller and mint master Nathan Veitel Heinrich Ephraim, was once regarded as the city’s most beautiful spot. Rebuilt using original elements after the old palace was demolished, it houses a museum on Berlin art history.
9. Neptunbrunnen
Am Rathaus
The green Neo-Baroque fountain, dating from 1895, depicts the sea god Neptune. He is surrounded by four female figures, symbolizing Prussia’s main rivers at the time: the Rhine, Weichsel, Oder and Elbe.
Neptunbrunnen, Alexanderplatz
10. Karl-Marx-Allee and Frankfurter Allee
Mitte/Friedrichshain
This avenue, lined by Soviet-style buildings, was built as a showpiece for Socialism in 1949–55. Known then as “Stalinallee”, it provided ultra-modern apartments that are again in high demand today.
A DAY AROUND ALEXANDERPLATZ
Morning
Start your day at Strausberger Platz where you can admire the products of Socialist architecture lining Frankfurter Allee. Then take the U-Bahn (or continue on foot) to the vast Alexanderplatz where you can indulge in a bit of people-watching or do a spot of shopping before heading to the beautiful Marienkirche. Step back outside to admire the lovely Neptunbrunnen fountain a few steps away, then walk to the Berliner Fernsehturm and – if the weather is nice – take the lift up to the viewing platform. After that, cross the square to the Berliner Rathaus. Stroll past the statues of Marx and Engels in the Marx-Engels-Forum, then turn to the nearby historic Nikolaiviertel. For lunch you can enjoy the rustic fare at Reinhard’s.
Afternoon
After lunch, experience the historic ambience of the old Nikolaiviertel quarter by exploring its narrow alleyways and hidden nooks on foot. The Knoblauchhaus museum and the Nikolaikirche are especially worth a visit. Then walk down Grunerstraße to reach the opposite bank of the Spree River, where you can immerse yourself in Berlin’s culture and history at the Märkisches Museum. Round off your day with a meal at the stylish Zur Gerichtslaube.
The Best Of The Rest
1. Stadtgericht
Littenstr. 13–15 • 9am–1pm Mon–Fri
The imposing municipal courts building boasts extravagant stairs in the lobby area, with curved balustrades and elegant columns.
Lacy balustrades at the Stadtgericht
2. Franziskanerkirche
Klosterstr. 74
Remnants of a 13th-century Franciscan abbey, these ruins are surrounded by lawns, making this a picturesque spot for a break in the city centre.
3. Stadtmauer
Waisenstr.
A fragment of the 13th–14th-century town wall that once surrounded the twin towns of Berlin and Cölln.
4. Parochialkirche
Klosterstr. 67
This church, by Johann Arnold Nering and Martin Grünberg, was one of Berlin’s most charming Baroque churches, but the magnificent interior and bell tower were destroyed in World War II. In 2016, a replica of the historic tower was mounted, bearing a new carillon with 52 bells.
Detail, Parochialkirche
5. Palais Podewil
Klosterstr. 68 • (030) 24 74 96 • 11am–10pm Mon–Sat
The light yellow Baroque palace, built in 1701–4, has been transformed into Podewil, a cultural centre, and a subsidiary of the Grips-Theater.
6. Märkisches Ufer
This picturesque riverside promenade gives a good impression of the city in the late 18th century. Look out for No. 12, a typical Berlin Baroque house that was originally built on Fischerinsel in 1740 and transplanted here in 1969.
7. Heiliggeistkapelle
Spandauer Str. 1
A beautiful example of Gothic brick architecture, this hospital church was built around 1300.
8. Ribbeckhaus
Breite Str. 36
The only Renaissance house in central Berlin, with a remarkable, lavishly ornamented façade.
9. AquaDom and Sea Life Berlin
Discover a host of species living in rivers, lakes and seas, and see amazing corals and tropical fish at this fascinating centre, which boasts the world’s largest cylindrical aquarium (see AquaDom and Sea Life Berlin).
10. Historischer Hafen
Märkisches Ufer • Museum May–Sep:1–6pm Sat & Sun • (030) 21 47 32 57
Moored at this port are barges and tugboats that once operated on the Spree River. The Renate-Angelika hosts a historical display on inland shipping.
Shops And Markets
1. Galeria Kaufhof
Alexanderplatz 9 • (030) 24 74 30 • 9:30am–8pm Mon–Sat
The largest department store in eastern Berlin stocks everything your heart could desire. Its food department entices with a range of international gourmet foods.
Vast interiors of the Galeria Kaufhof
2. Die Puppenstube
Propststr. 4 • (030) 242 39 67 • 9am–6:30pm Mon–Sat, 11am–6pm Sun
Adorable dolls made from porcelain and other materials await, as do mountains of cute fluffy teddy bears.
3. Teddy’s
Propststr. 4 • (030) 247 82 44 • 10am–6pm daily
An old-fashioned toy store with probably the city’s best selection of teddy bears, including brands like Steiff. They also have bear clothing and accessories.
4. TeeGschwendner
Propststr. 3 • (030) 242 32 55 • 10am–7pm Mon–Sat
A charming specialist tea shop opposite Nikolaikirche, full of delicious scents. They carry more than 300 varieties of tea.
5. Ausberlin
Karl-Liebknecht Str. 9 • (030) 97 00 56 40 • 10am–8pm Mon–Sat
Whimsical stock, with a fashion focus, all created in Berlin. Exclusive designer items include Breath of Berlin perfume, bags and T-shirts.
6. U- and S-Bahnhof Alexanderplatz
Alexanderplatz
This bustling area has a selection of shops for daily needs, plus late-opening fast food outlets and German imbisse (food stands).
7. Alexa
Am Alexanderplatz, Grunerstr. 20 • (030) 269 34 00 • 10am–9pm Mon–Sat
This mall boasts some 180 retail outlets, such as Build-a-Bear Workshop, where kids assemble their own teddy, and LOXX, the world’s largest digitally operated model train set.
8. Erzgebirgischer Weihnachtsmarkt
Propststr. 8 • (030) 241 12 29 • 11am–7pm Mon–Sat
A vast array of stalls laden with a range of German handicrafts, including traditional wooden nutcrackers.
Wooden nutcracker
9. Münzstraße
This tiny street, just off Alexanderplatz, is full of original fashion boutiques and designer stores. A real mecca for fashion aficionados.
10. die mitte
Alexanderplatz • (030) 263 99 70 • 10am–9pm Mon–Sat
Visit this large shopping centre for flagship fashion stores Esprit and New Yorker, or multimedia at Saturn.
Pubs, Cafés And Beer Gardens
1. Zur letzten Instanz
Waisenstr. 14–16 • (030) 242 55 28 • noon–1am Mon–Sat, noon–11pm Sun
Berlin’s oldest pub dates back to 1621, and former guests include Napoleon, Beethoven, the German artist Heinrich Zille, former Soviet leader Mikhael Gorbachev and Angela Merkel.
German pub food at Zur letzten Instanz
2. Zum Nußbaum
A charming historic pub in the Nikolaiviertel quarter serving draught beers and Berliner Weiße in summer (see Zum Nußbaum).
3. COME BUY
Rosenthaler Str. 31 • (030) 93 62 45 15 • 11am–9pm daily
An authentic Taiwanese bubble tea café where customers can choose from more than 30 flavours, such as taro milk tea with tapioca pearls.
4. Brauhaus Georgbräu
Spreeufer 4 • (030) 242 42 44 • summer: 10am–midnight daily; winter: from noon daily
Attracting Bavarians and tourists alike, this beer garden offers a variety of rustic fare and beer from both Berlin and Munich.
Interior, Brauhaus Georgbräu
5. Deckshaus
Märkisches Ufer/ Historischer Hafen • (030) 21 79 14 04 • noon–10pm Tue–Sat, noon–8pm Sun
This delightful bistro on the deck of an old steamship offers stunning views of the Spree and local specialities such as apfelstrudel or fried fish.
6. Café Oliv
Münzstr. 8 • (030) 89 20 65 40 • 8:30am–7pm Mon–Fri, 9:30am–7pm Sat, 10am–6pm Sun
Trendy Berliners get their organic sandwiches, flat whites and home-baked cakes from this sleek venue.
7. Café Ephraim’s
Spreeufer 1 • (030) 24 72 59 47 • noon–10pm daily • no credit cards
Hearty German food and excellent coffee and cakes added to the great views of the Spree River attract both locals and tourists.
8. tigertörtchen
Spandauer Str. 25 • (030) 67 96 90 51 • 11am–6pm Thu–Tue
Come here for inventive cupcake creations such as date and walnut or crab and dill.
9. Marinehaus
Märkisches Ufer 48-50 • (030) 279 32 46 • noon–late daily
Traditional pub with maritime decor, serving German food.
10. Der Alte Fritz
Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 29 • (030) 96 20 06 00 • noon–midnight Mon–Sat, noon–10pm Sun
German dishes such as pork knuckles and roasted duck with green cabbage are served here.
Restaurants
1. Reinhard’s
Poststr. 28 • (030) 242 52 95 • 9am–midnight daily • €€
One of Mitte’s most charming restaurants. Savour the international food, surrounded by photos and paintings of famous contemporaries.
2. HEat
Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 3 • (030) 238 283 472 • 6am–11pm daily • €€
This ultra-chic fusion restaurant at the SAS Radisson Blu serves an imaginative blend of Oriental and European tastes.
3. Zur Gerichtslaube
Poststr. 28 • (030) 241 56 98 • 11:30am–1am daily • €€
The former court building is a stylish setting for traditional Berlin specialities such as Prussian sausages.
4. Le Provençal
Spreeufer 3 • (030) 302 75 67 • noon–midnight • €€
Baked oysters, scallop soup and other seafood delicacies are served in this family-run French restaurant. Try the lavender ice cream.
5. Zum Paddenwirt
Nikolaikirchplatz 6 • (030) 242 63 82 • noon–midnight daily • no credit cards • €€
A mecca for fans of traditional Berlin food, including fried herrings and brawn, and a strong beer.
6. Zillestube
Propststr. 9 • (030) 242 52 47 • from 11am daily • €
Named after the 19th-century Berlin illustrator and photographer Heinrich Zille, this tiny pub serves hearty Berlin food and traditional beers in a rustic setting.
The simple interior of Zillestube
7. Marcellino
Poststr. 28 • (030) 242 73 71 • noon–midnight daily • €€
An agreeable Italian restaurant, with a pleasant terrace and a large inviting garden offering shade on a hot summer’s day.
8. Balthasar Spreeufer 2
Spreeufer 2 • (030) 30 88 21 56 • noon–10pm daily • €€
Enjoy German and international cuisine with fusion dishes such as tagliatelle with a ginger and tomato sauce, and many more meat- and fish- based mains.
9. Fernsehturm Sphere
Panoramastr. 1a • (030) 242 59 22 • 10am–midnight daily • €€
This revolving restaurant in the TV Tower offers superb views and Berlin-Brandenburg specialities, including cod with beetroot and potato purée.
10. Mutter Hoppe
Rathausstr. 21 • (030) 241 56 25 • 11:30am–midnight daily • €€
Gigantic portions of delicious traditional German food make up for the sometimes brusque service.