THE TIERGARTEN AND FEDERAL DISTRICT
In 1999, Berlin’s green centre became the government district. Around the Tiergarten, Berlin’s largest and most popular park, stand the Reichstag, the Bundeskanzleramt and Schloss Bellevue, official residence of the President of the Federal Republic of Germany. The sprawling Tiergarten itself is a great place for strolling and cycling, and it also boasts the Landwehrkanal, the Neuer See, the Spree River and Berlin’s zoo. In summer, its lawns are used for soccer games and barbecue parties.
1. Reichstag
More than any of the other landmarks in Berlin, the Reichstag – the seat of the German parliament – has come to symbolize German history.
The majestic Reichstag with its beautiful modern dome
2. Kulturforum
This unique complex of modern buildings features the best museums and concert halls in western Berlin (see Kulturforum).
3. Großer Tiergarten
Tiergarten
The Großer Tiergarten is Berlin’s largest park, straddling an area of 200 hectares (494 acres) between the eastern and western parts of the town. Formerly the Elector’s hunting grounds, it was redesigned in the 1830s as a park by Peter Joseph Lenné. At the end of the 19th century, the Siegesallee was established in the east of the park, more than 500 m (1,640 ft) in length, lined by statues of monarchs and politicians. After World War II, the starving and freezing population chopped down nearly all the trees for firewood and dug up the lawns to grow food. Thanks to reforestation since the 1950s, the Tiergarten is today Berlin’s favourite green space and the lungs of the city (see Großer Tiergarten).
4. Siegessäule
Großer Stern • Adm
In the middle of the Tiergarten stands the 62-m- (203-ft-) high Victory Column, erected to commemorate Prussian victory against Denmark in the war of 1864. After victory over Austria in 1866 and France 1871, the structure was crowned by a 35-ton gilded statue of the goddess Victoria. There are great views from the viewing platform, 285 steps up (see Siegessäule).
5. Diplomatenviertel
Between Stauffenbergstr. and Lichtensteinallee as well as along Tiergartenstr.
In the late 19th century, an embassy district sprang up. Most structures were destroyed during World War II, and until German reunification the buildings were left to decay. After the government moved back to Berlin from Bonn in 1999, new life was breathed into the diplomats’ quarter and, thanks to its adventurous architecture, it is now one of Berlin’s most interesting areas. Especially worth seeing are the Austrian and Indian embassies on Tiergartenstraße, the Nordic embassies (see Nordische Botschaften) on Rauchstraße and the Mexican embassy on Klingelhöferstraße.
6. Hamburger Bahnhof
This former railway station, now the Museum für Gegenwart (Museum of the Present Day), holds contemporary works of art. Former dispatch warehouses were converted and linked to the old railway building, forming the Rieckhallen, and doubling the exhibition space. One of the highlights is the private collection of Erich Marx, with works by Beuys and others (see Hamburger Bahnhof).
Hamburger Bahnhof
7. Sowjetisches Ehrenmal
Str. des 17. Juni
The Soviet Memorial was opened on 7 November 1945, the anniversary of the Russian October Revolution. It is flanked by two tanks, supposedly the first to reach Berlin. The memorial commemorates the 300,000 Red Army soldiers who died during World War II in the fight to liberate Berlin. A legend persists that the large column was made from the marble blocks of Hitler’s Reich Chancellery. Designed by Nicolai Sergijevski, the column is crowned by a bronze statue by Lev Kerbel. Behind the memorial, 2,500 Russian soldiers are buried.
Sowjetisches Ehrenmal
Sowjetisches Ehrenmal
8. Hansa-Viertel
Tiergarten, Hanseatenweg
The Hansa estate west of Schloss Bellevue was built for the Interbau architecture exhibition in 1957. World War II bombs had flattened the Tiergarten, and 36 residential complexes were erected in the park, designed by distinguished architects from around the world, including Walter Gropius (Händelallee 3–9), Alvar Aalto (Klopstockstr. 30–32) and Oscar Niemeyer (Altonaer Str. 4–14).
9. Gedenkstätte Deutscher Widerstand
Stauffenbergstr. 13–14 • (030) 26 99 50 00 • 9am–6pm Mon–Wed & Fri, 9am–8pm Thu, 10am–6pm Sat & Sun • www.gdw-berlin.de/en/
Today known as Bendlerblock, this 1930s complex lies behind the former Prussian Ministry of War. During World War II it served as army headquarters. It was here that a group of officers planned the assassination of Adolf Hitler. When the attempt failed on 20 July 1944, Claus Schenk Count von Stauffenberg and the others involved were arrested here, and many of them were shot in the courtyard during the night. A memorial, created by Richard Scheibe in 1953, commemorates these events. On the upper floor is a small exhibition documenting the German resistance against the Nazi regime. Today, the Bendlerblock has been incorporated into the Berlin branch of the Federal Ministry of Defence.
Gedenkstätte Deutscher Widerstand
10. Villa von der Heydt
Von-der-Heydt-Str. 18 • www.preussischer-kulturbesitz.de/en
This late Neo-Classical villa, built in 1860–61 by architects Hermann Ende and G A Linke for one of the city’s most elegant residential areas at the time, is one of the few extant examples of the architectural villa style typical of the Tiergarten. The Prussian Heritage Foundation now has its headquarters here.
PETER JOSEPH LENNÉ
Lenné (1789–1866), one of Germany’s most influential landscape architects, was born into a family of gardeners in Bonn. He studied in Paris and joined the Royal Gardens in Potsdam as an apprentice in 1816. There he met Schinkel and together they set out to design the parks of Berlin and Potsdam in the harmonious style of the time.
A DAY OUT
Morning
Start your tour of the Tiergarten near the Reichstag. Explore the government district starting with the Federal Chancellor’s Office or the Bundeskanzleramt. Stop at Restaurant Käfer in the Reichstag building for breakfast. Via John-Foster-Dulles-Allee you will pass the Carillon and the Haus der Kulturen der Welt on the way to Großer Tiergarten. Continue along one of the paths into the park, directly opposite the old Kongresshalle, until you reach Straße des 17. Juni. Turn right to go towards Siegessäule. From there continue along Fasanerieallee in a southwesterly direction until you reach Café am Neuen See for lunch.
Afternoon
After lunch, take a stroll through the Diplomatenviertel. From Neuer See, it is only a few steps east along Lichtensteinallee and Thomas-Dehler-Straße until you get to Rauchstraße with its Scandinavian embassies. On Tiergartenstraße you will pass, among others, the embassies of Japan, Italy, India and Austria. Head back to Klingelhöferstraße and walk south, making a small detour for refreshments at Café Einstein. Head back to the canal and continue along Lützowufer until you reach the Kulturforum via Potsdamer Brücke. A good place for an evening meal would be Vox at the Grand Hyatt.
Hidden Treasures
1. Neuer See
S-Bahn station Tiergarten
Shimmering in a mysterious emerald green, the largest lake in the Tiergarten is perfect for rowing. Afterwards you can recover in the Café am Neuen See.
2. Löwenbrücke
Großer Weg
The Lion Bridge, which leads across a small stream near Neuer See, was built in 1838 and is “suspended” from the sculptures of four lions. This idyllic spot is a favourite meeting point in Berlin.
3. Lortzing-Denkmal
Östlicher Großer Weg
There are 70 statues of philosophers, poets and statesmen in Tiergarten. The statue of the composer Lortzing, at one end of Neuer See, is one of the most beautiful.
4. Houseboats
Str. des 17. Juni, Tiergartenufer
Docked on the banks of the Spree River are some of the few remaining houseboats in Berlin – an idyllic haven in the middle of the city’s bustle.
5. Gaslights in Tiergarten
At S-Bahn station Tiergarten
With 80 beautiful historic gaslights from different cities illuminating the paths, an evening stroll in the Tiergarten can be a romantic affair.
6. Englischer Garten
An der Klopstockstr.
The lovely English-style landscaped garden near Schloss Bellevue is ideal for strolling or relaxing at the Teehaus with coffee and cake.
7. Locks
At the Zoo, S-Bahn station Tiergarten
The two Landwehrkanal locks and the quirky Schleusenkrug beer garden (next to the eponymous lock) are very popular with locals and visitors.
Beer garden on the canal lock
8. Estonian Embassy
Hildebrandstr. 5
In a street next to the ruined Greek Embassy, this building is characteristic of the diplomats’ quarter.
9. Landwehrkanal
Corneliusstr.
The grassy banks of the 11-km (7-mile) long Landwehrkanal are ideal for chilling out.
10. Carillon
John-Foster-Dulles-Allee (Haus der Kulturen der Welt) • Open-air concerts: 3pm Sun May–Sep
The carillon, officially dedicated in 1987, is the largest of its kind in Europe. The 68 bells are rung every day at noon and 6pm in the 42-m (138-ft) high black tower.
The carillon tower
Restaurants
1. Café am Neuen See
Tiergarten, Neuer See, Lichtensteinallee 2 • (030) 254 49 30 • Mar–Oct: 9am–11pm daily; Nov–Feb: 10am–8pm Sat & Sun • €
On the shore of the lake, this is a restaurant, café and beer garden. The ”Italian breakfast” is delicious.
2. Schleusenkrug
Tiergarten-Schleuse • (030) 313 99 09 • 10–1am daily (to 7pm winter) • no credit cards • €
This small café, right next to a lock, has a rustic beer garden and is very popular with students.
3. Café Einstein
Kurfürstenstr. 58 • (030) 26 39 19 18 • 8–1am daily • €€
Based in the villa belonging to the film star Henny Porten, this is the ultimate in Viennese style.
4. Käfer im Reichstag
Platz der Republik • (030) 22 62 99 35 • 9am–midnight • €€
An ambitious restaurant, better known for its view than its food.
5. Joseph-Roth-Diele
Potsdamer Str. 75 • (030) 26 36 98 84 • 10am–midnight Mon–Fri • €
Popular restaurant/bar serving home-made traditional German food. Accepts cash payments only.
6. Panama
Potsdamer Straße 91 • (030) 983 20 84 35 • from 6pm Tue–Sat • €€
The imaginative dishes at this modern eatery are perfect for tapas-style sharing.
7. Lorenz Adlon Esszimmer
Unter den Linden 77 • (030) 22 61 19 60 • 7–10:30pm Tue–Sat • €€€
Superb European cuisine is on the menu at this restaurant with two Michelin stars in the Hotel Adlon Kempinski.
Lorenz Adlon Esszimmer
8. Brasserie Desbrosses
Potsdamer Platz 3 • (030) 337 776 341 • 6:30am–2:30pm, 5:30–11pm daily • €€
An appealing, historic French restaurant in the Ritz-Carlton. Its seafood is particularly good.
9. Paris-Moskau
Alt-Moabit 141 • (030) 394 20 81 • 6pm–midnight daily • €€
A classic restaurant serving seasonal dishes with an emphasis on game and seafood.
10. Lutter & Wegner Potsdamer Platz
Bellevuestr. 1 • (030) 26 39 03 72 • 11am–1am • €€€
This tiny outlet of Lutter & Wegner offers great Berlin and Austrian-French dishes in the historic setting of the Kaisersaal of the 1920s Grand Hotel Esplanade, whose remnants were incorporated into the Sony Center.