KREUZBERG, SCHÖNEBERG AND NEUKÖLLN
Before the Wall fell, Kreuzberg was a hotbed of squatters, hippies and anarchists. Despite rapid gentrification it is still the city’s most colourful area. Here, a diverse community of doctors, lawyers, artists and students harmoniously coexists in beautifully renovated petit-bourgeois flats. The adjacent Neukölln is Berlin’s most trendy area for art galleries, grunge-hip bars and clubs, particularly along Weserstraβe. Schöneberg is not as daring as Kreuzberg, but still evokes a free-minded spirit. Here, Winterfeldtplatz is lined with inviting pubs, and Nollendorfplatz is the nexus of Berlin’s lively gay scene.
1. Deutsches Technikmuseum
Trebbiner Str. 9 • (030) 90 25 40 • 9am– 5:30pm Tue–Fri, 10am–6pm Sat & Sun • Adm (kids free after 3pm) • www.sdtb.de
The history of technology and crafts is the theme of this museum, located in the grounds of a former railway goods yard. Visitors can learn about developments in aviation and admire 40 planes, including a Junkers Ju 52 and a “raisin bomber”, the type of plane used for the Berlin airlift. Old ships and steam locomotives hark back to the Industrial Revolution (see Deutsches Technikmuseum).
Exhibits at the Deutsches Technikmuseum
2. Jüdisches Museum
Lindenstr. 9–14 • 10am–10pm Mon, 10am–8pm Tue–Sun • Adm • www.jmberlin.de
The Jewish Museum's exhibitions and unique architecture aim to illustrate the repercussions of the Holocaust. Narrow, slanting galleries with zig-zag turns evoke a sense of dislocation, and are punctured by voids – empty spaces embodying the vacuum left behind by the destruction of Jewish life. Nearly 1,000 years of German-Jewish cultural history are documented here; a special exhibition evokes everyday Jewish life in Berlin from the end of the 19th century (see Jüdisches Museum). The two upper floors of the Libeskind building are closed for renovation until late 2019.
Jüdisches Museum
3. Haus am Checkpoint Charlie
Friedrichstr. 43–45 • (030) 253 72 50 • 9am–10pm daily • Adm • www.mauermuseum.de
This museum details the history of the Wall and the means people used to escape to West Berlin, from a hot-air balloon to a car with a false floor. Of the former border only a replica control hut remains (see Haus am Checkpoint Charlie).
Checkpoint Charlie
4. Topographie des Terrors
Niederkirchnerstr. 8 • (030) 254 50 90 • 10am–6pm daily (to 8pm May–Sep) • www.topographie.de/en
Between 1933 and 1945, three Nazi institutions of persecution and terror were located in this area: the Secret State Police Office; the SS leadership; and, during World War II, the Reich Security main office. After World War II, all the buildings were bulldozed. A striking documentation centre, designed by Berlin architect Ursula Wilms, was inaugurated in 2010 on this site, providing information about the headquarters of the National Socialist SS and police state during the Third Reich and showing the extent of the Nazi reign of terror throughout Europe.
5. Anhalter Bahnhof
Askanischer Platz 6–7
Only pitiful fragments remain of the railway station that was once the largest in Europe. The giant structure was erected in 1880 by architect Franz Schwechten as a showcase station: official visitors to the Empire were meant to be impressed by the splendour and glory of the German capital as soon as they reached the railway station. In 1943 the station was badly damaged by bombs and in 1960 it was pulled down. The waste ground behind the façade was meant to become a park, but today the Tempodrom is based here, hosting concerts and cabaret shows.
The ruins of the Anhalter Bahnhof
6. Oranienstraße
Between Lindenstr. and Skalitzer Str.
Oranienstraße is the heart of Kreuzberg. It is the wildest, most colourful and most unusual street of the district, where streetwear shops and pubs jostle for space with doner kebab takeaways and Turkish greengrocers. All aspects of life and politics in Kreuzberg are centred around this road.
7. Nollendorfplatz
Nollendorfplatz and neighbouring Winterfeldtplatz are right in the centre of Schöneberg. The former square has always been a focal point for Berlin's gay scene, and a plaque at the Nollendorfplatz U-Bahn station commemorates approximately 5,000 homosexuals killed in concentration camps by the Nazis. Today, gay life is concentrated more in the surrounding streets than the square itself. Before World War II, Nollendorfplatz was also a centre of entertainment. The Metropol-Theater, now a discotheque, then boasted Erwin Piscator as its director. And next door lived the writer Christopher Isherwood, whose novel formed the basis of Cabaret, the famous musical and film.
8. Viktoriapark
Kreuzbergstr.
This rambling park (see Viktoriapark and Kreuzberg) was set up as a recreational space for workers in Kreuzberg in 1888–94 to plans by Hermann Mächtig. It has an artificial waterfall, and the Neo-Gothic Schinkel memorial, 66 m (216 ft) high, commemorates Prussian victory in the Wars of Liberation against Napoleon.
9. Martin-Gropius-Bau
Niederkirchnerstr. 7 • (030) 25 48 60 • 10am–7pm Wed–Mon (check website) • Adm • www.gropiusbau.de
The richly ornamented former museum of arts and crafts hosts exhibitions on cultural history.
Detail, Martin-Gropius-Bau
10. Riehmers Hofgarten
Yorckstr. 83–86
Over 20 buildings make up this estate, built as officers’ quarters in the Gründerzeit (after the founding of the German Empire in 1871). Restored in the 1970s, they include a pleasant hotel with restaurant.
TURKISH BERLIN
In the 1960s, thousands of Turkish Gastarbeiter (“guest workers”) came to Berlin in response to a labour shortage. Today the community numbers nearly 240,000 and it is their children and grandchildren who leave their mark on life in the city, with many Turkish Berliners owning shops and businesses. 50 years after their arrival in Berlin, many people of Turkish descent are still plagued by social stagnation. As neighbourhoods like Kreuzberg or Neukölln, once popular amongst Turkish families, gentrify, many are forced into Berlin’s outer boroughs.
A DAY IN KREUZBERG
Morning
Start from the ruins of Anhalter Bahnhof, which you can reach by S-Bahn. From here continue along Stresemannstraße in a northwesterly direction to the Martin-Gropius-Bau. While away a few hours in this impressive building, then take a break in the museum café. Afterwards, a visit to the neighbouring Topographie des Terrors exhibition will bring you face to face with the dark Nazi past of this area. Walk along Niederkirchnerstraße, past an original section of the Berlin Wall, to Wilhelmstraße. Continue to Zimmerstrasse and visit some of the many contemporary art galleries lining the street. Walk on to Friedrichstrasse to Checkpoint Charlie and the Wall Museum at the former border.
Afternoon
You can have a tasty lunch at Sale e Tabacchi in Rudi-Dutschke-Straße. Continue in an easterly direction to get to the heart of Kreuzberg. Make a detour south on Lindenstraße to the Jüdisches Museum or carry on into Oranienstraße. Then take the U6 from U-Bahn station Hallesches Tor to Platz der Luftbrücke. Viktoriapark nearby is a good place for a rest, while shopaholics might prefer a stroll up Bergmannstraße. At the end of the street, turn north into Baerwaldstraße and continue to Carl-Herz-Ufer, where you can round off the day with a delicious evening meal at the Altes Zollhaus.
The Best Of The Rest
1. Rathaus Schöneberg
John-F-Kennedy-Platz
It was from this town hall in 1963 that US President John F Kennedy made his famous“I am a Berliner” speech, expressing his commitment to the freedom of West Berlin.
2. Asisi’s Wall Panorama
Friedrichstr. 205 • 10am–7pm daily • Adm • www.asisi.de
This is a life-size reproduction of the Berlin Wall as it appeared in the early 1980s, with sound and light installations.
3. Tempelhofer Feld
Tempelhof, built in 1939 by Ernst Sagebiel, at that point Germany’s biggest airport, survives as the largest fascist structure in Europe. The airport closed in 2008. The site is now home to a sports ground, park and offices. The old terminal can be visited on a guided tour (see Tempelhofer Feld).
The old Tempelhof terminal
4. Mariannenplatz
This park-like square with old trees is dominated by a large Gothic-style building. The former hospital and nursing school Bethanien, is now under landmark protection and is used by cultural and social initiatives.
5. Oberbaumbrücke
Warschauer/Skalitzer Str.
Pedestrians and cyclists can cross to the other side of the Spree River from Kreuzberg to Friedrichshain on this red-brick bridge, one of Berlin’s loveliest, which was built in 1894–6.
6. Mosse-Haus
Schützenstrasse 25
One of Berlin’s most influential publishing houses was based in this Jugendstil corner house in the former newspaper district.
7. Friedhöfe Hallesches Tor
Mehringdamm
Many celebrities lie buried in these four cemeteries, including the composer Felix Mendelssohn Bartholdy and the writer E T A Hoffmann, whose work inspired Offenbach to compose his opéra fantastique The Tales of Hoffmann.
8. Gasometer Schöneberg
Torgauer Str. 12–15
Once a massive gas holder, this Schöneberg landmark was decommissioned in the 1990s and turned into a viewing platform.
9. Kottbusser Tor
Social diversity in Kreuzberg is tucked away in between 1970s prefabricated buildings in the Turkish heart of the district.
10. Kammergericht
Potsdamer Str. 186
From 1947 to 1990, this magnificent supreme court, built in 1909–13, was used as Allied Control Council.
The façade of Kammergericht
Shops And Markets
1. Winterfeldtmarkt
Winterfeldtplatz • 8am–4pm Sat, 8am–1pm Wed
At Berlin’s largest market you can buy fresh fruit and vegetables as well as other goods from around the world, such as clothes and New-Age items (see Winterfeldtmarkt).
Fruits at Winterfeldtmarkt
2. Türkenmarkt am Maybachufer
Maybachufer • 11am–6:30pm Tue & Fri
The most vibrant market in Berlin. This is where Berliners and Turks alike buy unleavened bread and fresh goat’s cheese (see Türkenmarkt am Maybachufer).
3. Molotow
Gneisenaustr. 112 • (030) 693 08 18 • 1–6pm Mon–Fri
Berlin designer Ute Hentschel’s classy outfits are sold off-the-rack, and can be custom-made or altered for a perfect fit.
4. Oranienplatz and Oranienstraße
Oranienstr./corner Oranienplatz
Kreuzberg’s main square and unofficial high street specialize in all things alternative.
5. Hot & Cold
Winterfeldtstr. 48 • (030) 216 33 54
Irresistible trinkets are sold at this charming Scandinvian design shop.
6. Depot 2
Oranienstr. 9 • (030) 611 46 55
This small boutique sells the latest streetwear and hip-hop fashion of local labels.
7. High-Lite
Bergmannstr. 99 • (030) 691 27 44
Worried about standing out in the alternative crowd in Kreuzberg? This is the place to get your shades, body piercings and other counter-culture essentials.
8. Ararat
Bergmannstr. 9 • (030) 694 95 32
One of Berlin’s best-stocked and trendiest stationery, curiosity and gift shops, the colourful Ararat has many designer items for sale.
9. Marheineke-Markthalle
Marheinekeplatz • 8am–8pm Mon–Fri, 8am–6pm Sat
This is one of the last remaining market-halls in Berlin. It boasts colourful fruit and vegetable stores and a wide range of organic produce, as well as numerous snack bars for hungry shoppers.
10. Grober Unfug Comics
Zossener Str. 33 • (030) 69 40 14 90
Comic books of all periods and in various languages, with an emphasis on Japanese manga. The store, whose name means “complete mischief” has all the latest comics, plus some bargains and rare editions.
Japanese manga
Pubs, Bars And Nightclubs
1. Ankerklause
Kottbusser Damm 104 • (030) 693 56 49
An unrefined but hugely popular late-night place with a mixed crowd.
The bar at Ankerklause
2. Yorckschlösschen
Yorckstr. 15 • (030) 215 80 70
A pub-restaurant with a great old Berlin feel. Live jazz at the weekend.
3. Kuschlowski
Weserstr. 202 • (0173) 36 19 11 85
This Russian vodka bar features bucket-shaped table lamps and bar stools designed by its owner, architect Daniel Neugebauer. Relaxed living-room vibe.
4. Van Loon
Carl-Herz-Ufer 5–7 • (030) 692 62 93
Enjoy a snack surrounded by nautical artifacts on this old barge moored in Urbanhafen. In summer you can sit on the green banks.
5. Max & Moritz
Oranienstr. 162 • (030) 69 51 59 11
Traditional Berlin tavern with touches of Jugendstil that fronts as a tango salon on Sundays. The bar opens at 5pm; lessons start at 8pm; the club starts at 9pm.
6. Rauschgold
Mehringdamm 62 • (030) 92 27 41 78
Very popular, best late at night and very crowded at weekends. Karaoke, themed nights and a mixed crowd.
7. Golgatha
Dudenstr. 48–64 (Viktoriapark) • (030) 785 24 53
This classic beer garden on the Kreuzberg attracts students and an older clientele, bopping to funk on the small and intimate dance floor.
8. SO36
A Kreuzberg classic, the SO36 is an über-alternative and very lively dance club. The crowd is a mix of straight and gay (see SO36).
9. Würgeengel
Dresdener Str. 122 • (030) 615 55 60
The drinks at the “Angel of Death“ are not, in fact, lethal, but the bar staff and most of the clientele are straight out of a Buñuel film.
10. Klunkerkranich
Karl-Marx-Str. 66 • freunde@klunkerkranich.org
You might think a rooftop garden bar above a parking garage is less than glamorous, but it’s hard to quibble with the fun-loving DJs, organic bistro stations and gorgeous views.
The rooftop bar at Klunkerkranich
Restaurants
1. Lavanderia Vecchia
Flughafenstr. 46 • (030) 62 72 21 52 • noon–2:30pm & 7:30–11pm Tue–Fri, 7:30–11pm Sat • €€
Set in an old laundry, this creative Italian eatery excels in Roman tapas. Prepare to linger: a fixed four-course meal requires about 3 hours.
Lavanderia Vecchia
2. Entrecôte
Schützenstr. 5 • (030) 20 16 54 96 • noon–midnight Mon–Fri, 6pm–midnight Sat, 6–11pm Sun • €€
Ever since Madonna enjoyed a meal here the usually low-key Entrecôte has become the talk of the town.
3. Altes Zollhaus
Carl-Herz-Ufer 30 • (030) 692 33 00 • from 6pm Tue–Sat • €€
Former border control point on the banks of the Landwehrkanal serving international and German fare. Try the house speciality Brandenburger Landente aus dem Rohr (roast duck).
4. Viasko
Erkelenzdamm 49 • (030) 40 75 19 12 • from 5pm Wed–Fri, from 11am Sat & Sun • €
An imaginative vegan menu using fresh local produce is on offer here.
5. Restaurant Tim Raue
Rudi-Dutschke-Str. 26 • (030) 25 93 79 30 • noon–1:30pm & 7pm–midnight Tue–Sat • €€€
Tasting menus explore combinations such as glazed partridge with Japanese chestnut. The Obamas ate here in 2013. Two Michelin stars.
6. Defne
Planufer. 92c • (030) 81 79 71 11 • from 4pm daily • no credit cards • €
An intimate restaurant serving modern Turkish food.
7. Long March Canteen
Wrangelstr. 20 • 0178 884 95 99 • 6pm–midnight daily • €€
A hip dim sum restaurant with communal tables and dim lighting, like a real Chinese street kitchen.
8. Henne
Leuschnerdamm 25 • (030) 614 77 30 • from 6pm Tue–Sat, 5pm Sun • €
Only three dishes are served at this old-Berlin institution but all are cooked to perfection.
9. Lochner Weinwirtschaft
Eisenacher Str. 86 • (030) 23 00 52 20 • 4pm–12:30am Tue–Sun • €€
Wine and dinner bar with an outside terrace. Refined snacks also served.
10. Sale e Tabacchi
Rudi-Dutschke-Str. 23 • (030) 252 11 55 • 10am–11:30pm daily • €€
Elegant Italian restaurant popular with the media crowd. In summer, reserve a table in the courtyard.