What do you get when you let two designers loose in a nursery? A car filled to overflowing with a wild assortment of trees, shrubs, perennials, and more. It is a given that you will not be able to see out of the rear window, and you should expect to have plants on the seats, on the floor, and in cup holders. It is only when plants are precariously balanced on the dashboard that we think we may have enough.
But these are not just any plants. The majority will be an outrageous selection of foliage plants with enormous tropical leaves jostling feathery grasses; stripes, spots, and splashes alongside bold solid colors from vibrant orange to deepest purple. Tucked in here and there will be some flowering plants. Experience has taught us that these truly perform, either with a reliably long bloom time or interesting leaves as well as flowers.
As designers, speakers, and coauthors, we have gained a reputation for being entertaining as well as inspiring and for sharing our expertise in a way that is easy to understand. We encourage and challenge each other, which brings out the best in both of us. This, in turn, provides readers with a much broader range of ideas than either one of us could accomplish alone. Together we have fun while we walk you through our design process, which puts foliage first, then adds a final flourish to take the scene from predictable to exceptional.
When you go to the grocery store, you probably have a plan (or at least a recipe) in mind. But how often do you take a shopping list to the nursery? Without forethought, you are headed for disaster—it is too easy to get seduced by all the colorful flowers so prominently displayed. On impulse, you grab one of this and one of that, and when you get home that collection of pretty blooms never quite translates into a glossy magazine image. It is just a wild kaleidoscope with no cohesive sense of design—or, worse, the blooms fade, and you spent a lot of money on a short-term burst of glory. What went wrong?
You may have chosen plants that are individually beautiful, but did you consider whether they look good together? Is there a visual connection between them? Or perhaps you succumbed to the display of blooming annuals and perennials, the enticing photographs promising an abundance of flowers in summer. But how many months do you need to wait for the plants to reach that stage—and how long will they bloom? If you focus on the flowers without considering the foliage, you may end up with a disappointing mélange of midsize green leaves for much of the year, not a unified, well-designed look. It is far more effective, and attractive, to start with foliage.
After building a foliage framework, we show you how to layer in flowers or other artistic elements to add the finishing touch. We take the mystery out of the design process and explain what makes a combination successful. If you follow our ideas or use them as a springboard for your own creations, you will feel like we are your personal design coaches.
In this book, we demonstrate how quickly and easily you can assemble plants that reflect your personal style and suit the largest border or smallest container. We teach you how to make strategic plant choices, clarify why certain plants are great investments for year-round interest, and explain how every element will help you achieve a cohesive look.
Our ideas go beyond the typical summer growing season. The book is divided into two main sections— Spring and Summer, Fall and Winter—both of which feature design schemes for sun and shade situations. You will be able to create a true four-season garden that will work for your style and design challenges. Are you still trying to outwit the deer? We feel your pain, and have included Beauty Without the Beast just for you. Looking for something to add winter interest to your cold-climate garden? We were inspired by Serendipity and we think you will be, too. Do you prefer a hot, spicy color palette? Sassitude is sizzling hot. Need ideas for a fall container? Pumpkin Spice Latte is just one of the flavors on the menu.
We scoured gardens from British Columbia to Arizona and Florida to Washington State to find designs to delight, inspire, and embolden you to try new ideas, new plants, and new ways of looking at plant combinations. There are ideas for small patio containers to large sweeping borders, and everything in between. Each combination includes an explanation of how it works. Many of our favorite plants have multiple periods of significance, so we also discuss how each component evolves during the year and offers ideas on how to extend the season of interest even further.
New gardeners will quickly gain confidence as they learn how to select plants that work together, as well as how to identify the details that create a strong foliage picture frame for the flowers on which they may have initially focused. Intermediate gardeners will learn how to transform their gardens from a jumble of collectors’ plants to a carefully composed design, while those with many years of dirt under their fingernails will be inspired by a fresh twist on old favorites—plus exciting new introductions that will spark the imagination and help you craft unique creations.
You don’t need to be a horticulturist or an artist to learn how to design. Careful observation of the smallest detail will help you transform a group of plants on a cart in the nursery into a memorable vignette: your foliage picture frame. Begin with an inspiration plant that drives you wild with excitement. Maybe it is one you have loved and used a number of times, or perhaps it once intimidated you. Whether you are choosing a tree, a perennial, a shrub, or a succulent, look at its key features first.
The final step is an opportunity to add something unexpected, such as a piece of glass art or a colorful flower. Or you may simply develop a monochromatic theme to include additional foliage and flowering plants. Often these elements will have a color echo with some other design component, but with experience you will learn how to use a wild card that at face value has nothing in common with the other plants. For example, in Citrus Splash we show you that the level of color saturation between the two elements makes them perfect partners, even without any specific color echo. Winter designs take considerable creativity to think beyond evergreens, so we will show you how to use berries, seed heads, and colorful branches as layers to enhance your design.
Our aim is to convey our passion for great garden design by sharing inspirational ideas, and to teach you how to layer together the design elements so you are successful every time. Whether you want a floral extravaganza, a classic look, or something clean and contemporary, it all comes down to designing around foliage.
This book is divided into two main growing seasons: first, Spring and Summer, and second, Fall and Winter, each of which is subdivided into sections for growing in sun and shade.
Every juicy combination has a fun title and offers a large glamour shot, plus an explanation of why it works and details of how the design will mature to reach its pinnacle of perfection. The foliage framework includes individual plant portraits and easy reference details about what each needs to thrive, followed by the finishing touch, which may be anything from flowers, thorns, berries, or twigs to a specially selected piece of garden art that completes the scene. These combinations may have as few as two plants or as many as ten.
Understanding your growing conditions is one key to design success.
SITE This indicates how much sun or shade the combination requires to thrive. Observation is key, as an area that receives full sun in summer may be significantly more shaded in winter months. We refer to four variations:
Full sun: At least 6 hours of direct sun each day.
Partial sun: Between 4 and 6 hours of direct sun, with protection during the hottest part of the day.
Partial shade: Morning sun only, often on the eastern side of the house.
Full shade: Less than 2 hours of direct sun, with some filtered sun during part of the day.
SOIL Soil can vary enormously from dry sand to wet, sticky clay and everything in between; it also fluctuates across the country and within a single garden. Understanding what your soil is like and growing appropriate plants is the first step toward successful gardening. If you are new to plants, seek out local expert advice to help you gain confidence. We use the following terms to describe soil types:
Average: Many gardeners refer to this soil as loam. Typically it is rich and dark, crumbles easily, and retains moisture while still allowing water to percolate through.
Well-drained: Soil does not stay saturated even after heavy rains.
Moisture-retentive: Such soils are often rich in organic matter or have been mulched well with compost. Even after prolonged high temperatures these soils do not completely dry out, but they are not waterlogged.
Potting soil: These can vary widely in content, price, and quality. Ask an experienced local container designer for a recommendation based on the plants you want to grow and what is available in your area.
ZONE The USDA hardiness rating system provides gardeners a way to determine which plants will survive in their geographical location based on the average annual frost-free days and minimum winter temperatures. The lower the zone number, the colder the winter temperatures. Individual plants within a combination can have different hardiness ratings, so in the headnote we provide the zones in which all the plants will survive (except annuals), but we also give specific hardiness information for the individual plants. Like all avid gardeners, we are not put off simply because a label suggests that a fabulous shrub may die in our Seattle winters—we will try it anyway. A little research at your local nurseries may help you find a perfect hardy alternative to an otherwise tender plant. Local knowledge of microclimates is invaluable. To see temperature equivalents and to learn which zone you garden in, see the U.S. Department of Agriculture Hardiness Zone Map at planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/PHZMWeb/. For Canada, go to planthardiness.gc.ca. For Europe, go to uk.gardenweb.com/forums/zones/hze.html. For the UK, search for “hardiness” at rhs.org.uk.
SEASON This refers to the seasons of visual interest that the combination provides. If all plants listed die to the ground in winter, the season is listed as spring through fall. If some key structural elements remain—such as interesting twigs, berries, or an evergreen shrub—then it is considered year-round, even if annuals are included.
When designing containers for spring and summer we are mindful of the heat and light tolerance of each plant, given that temperatures even in temperate climates can rise above 90°F, quickly scorching plants that are not true sun worshippers. With lower temperatures and shorter days in fall and winter we can take considerable liberties with our plant selection, including a sun-loving conifer in a partially shaded porch or a variety of coral bells that usually needs afternoon shade in a more open aspect.
The beauty of container gardening is that nothing has to be permanent. You can easily move smaller containers from one location to another and transplant the plants to another pot or into the landscape as season, style, or growth suggests.
The guide to placement for fall and winter container designs takes into account what will give you the best results for that combination during that season. Note our suggestions, as well as individual plant details for ongoing care.
Some of the plants featured in this book may be invasive in your area—please consult your local Cooperative Extension or County Extension Office, or check the USDA website. We suggest substitutions for some and offer alternatives for any that are especially problematic. Your selection will be based on the attribute you are looking for, as well as your climate. A local nursery professional or trained horticulturist will be able to assist you.
Barberry (Berberis species) These thorny deer-resistant shrubs are available in many colors, sizes, and shapes, from tall fountains to low mounds. Consider varieties of weigela (Weigela), fringe flower (Loropetalum), or ninebark (Physocarpus) instead.
Mexican feather grass (Stipa tenuissima, also sold as Nassella tenuissima) This soft, airy evergreen grass moves in the breeze but reseeds readily. Consider moor grass (Molinia) or blue grama grass (Bouteloua gracilis) for a similar look.
Parney’s cotoneaster (Cotoneaster parneyi, Cotoneaster lacteus) Evergreen foliage and fat clusters of red berries make this popular in many areas, but where it is invasive you may be able to substitute toyon (Heteromeles arbutifolia).
Italian arum (Arum italicum) A shade-loving perennial with lush foliage and seasonal berries that looks beautiful but spreads rapidly by seed and underground corms. Native Jack-in-the-pulpit (Arisaema triphyllum) has similar shaped flowers and berries, or one of the hardy cyclamen (Cyclamen coum, C. heterophyllum) or barrenwort (Epimedium species) may provide alternative foliage interest.
Western coltsfoot (Petasites palmatus) Proof that a native can also be invasive, this herbaceous perennial will quickly overtake other plants if the conditions are right. Rodger’s flower (Rodgersia species) or some of the large hostas, like Sum and Substance, may be better choices.
Darmera (Darmera peltata) Native to shady streamsides in parts of the Pacific Northwestern United States, this herbaceous perennial can quickly outgrow its space and its welcome. Astilboides (Astilboides tabularis) behaves better and has similar foliage and plume-like white flowers.
Yellow flag iris (Iris pseudacorus) This eye-catching perennial can quickly choke out native wetland species. Siberian iris may be a better choice; Butter and Sugar (Iris sibirica ‘Butter and Sugar’) has soft yellow and white flowers.
Trying to outwit deer is a lifelong challenge for those of us who live in deer country. Just when we think we understand their preferences, they develop a taste for something new. Although it is true that deer will eat anything when hungry enough, we suspect they can read price tags. They always seem to eat the most expensive specimens.
Then again, there are levels of deer resistance. Deer will eat some plants to the ground every year, will moderately graze others but leave enough that it is still worth growing them, and will rarely, if ever, touch certain plants. Some plants that are considered deer resistant lose new growth and/or flowers to deer, although the less tender parts of the plant stay safe. Taste also varies according to region and the age of deer (young ones really will try anything).
In the Pacific Northwestern United States we can indulge our passion for colorful foliage by selecting from an abundance of Heuchera and Heucherella. However, our favorites may not thrive in the humid south or extreme cold of the Midwest. We asked Dan Heims, president of Terra Nova Nurseries Inc., to share his expertise and experience to help you substitute varieties as needed. These recommendations are based on performance at regional test facilities, and they are his personal favorites for health, vigor, and hardiness in those areas.