My great-grandmother Strahan was known for her shrimp and sausage gumbo. I remember one occasion when she served it in her fine china gumbo bowls. She always prepared her creamy potato salad and had plenty of saltine crackers alongside. Making only a few changes to her original recipe, I updated this classic with spicy andouille sausage and roasted okra.
2 pounds unpeeled large fresh shrimp
16 cups water, divided
2 fresh bay leaves
6 cloves garlic, divided
12 ounces smoked andouille sausage
2 cups finely chopped yellow onion (about 1 medium onion)
2 celery ribs, finely chopped (about ¾ cups)
1 small green bell pepper, finely chopped (about 1 cup)
1 pound (about 4) small blue crabs
1 tablespoon gumbo filé
2 tablespoons plus 2 ⅛ teaspoons fine sea salt, divided
1 (28-ounce) can whole peeled tomatoes, drained
1 ½ cups canola oil
3 cups all-purpose flour
¼ teaspoon cracked black pepper
1 ½ teaspoons crab boil seasoning
1 teaspoon dried parsley
25 small fresh okra, trimmed and cut into ½-inch pieces
¾ teaspoon olive oil
12 cups cooked long-grain white rice, for serving
Peel and devein the shrimp, reserving the shells. Place the shrimp in a bowl and refrigerate. Put the shells in a large pot. Add 12 cups water, the bay leaves, and 4 cloves garlic. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook for 45 minutes. Skim off any scum that rises to the surface.
While the shrimp stock is cooking, cut the sausage into halves lengthwise and then into ¼-inch-thick slices. Place the sausage slices in a 10-inch cast-iron skillet and cook over medium heat until browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer the sausage slices to a paper towel–lined plate to drain. Wipe the skillet clean.
Strain the shrimp stock through a mesh strainer into a large bowl. Discard the shells, bay leaves, and garlic. Wash the pot clean of any shell pieces. Return the stock to the pot. Add the onion, celery, and green pepper. Using a fine grater or zester, grate the remaining 2 cloves garlic into the pot. Add the crabs, remaining 4 cups water, filé, and 1 teaspoon salt. Crush the tomatoes in your hand and then add to the pot. Cook over medium-low heat for 30 minutes.
Heat the oil in the skillet over medium heat. Gradually whisk in the flour. Cook for 10 minutes, whisking constantly. Increase the heat to medium-high and cook, whisking constantly, until the mixture reaches a dark brown color, about 25 minutes. Be careful not to burn the flour. If the roux is browning too fast, decrease the heat to medium. Once the roux reaches the color of chocolate, carefully add it to the stock and quickly stir it into the mixture until combined. Add the cooked sausage slices, 2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon salt, and pepper. Cook for an additional 15 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook for 10 minutes. Add the shrimp, crab boil seasoning, and parsley. Cook for another 10 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.
Toss the okra with the olive oil and remaining ⅛ teaspoon salt on a baking sheet. Bake for 15 to 17 minutes, until tender. Add the okra to the gumbo. Serve warm over the cooked rice.
Makes about 12 servings.
Note: Filé is optional in this recipe. My great-grandmother Strahan didn’t use it, but her daughter Ilene incorporates it into her gumbo, and I have as well.
Gumbo at my great-grandmother’s house with family and friends.
My great-grandmother peeling shrimp.