SERVES 4 · ACTIVE: 20 MIN · TOTAL: 20 MIN
THE ADVANTAGE OF ROASTING pencil-thin asparagus stalks is that they cook faster, and brown more quickly, than thicker stalks. Here they become crunchy and caramelized, almost like French fries. Add the cheese and make a farm-to-table version of cheese fries. If you prefer a lighter, nondairy alternative, skip the sauce and top the roasted asparagus with Shallot-Herb Pistou (here).
3 bunches pencil-thin asparagus (about 3 pounds)
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
2 tablespoons tarragon vinegar
1 shallot, thinly sliced
¼ cup heavy cream
3 ounces triple crème cheese, such as Saint-André, rind removed, cut into small cubes
1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives
1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon
1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
Preheat the oven to 400°F.
Remove the tough ends of the asparagus and compost or discard. In a bowl, toss the asparagus with the olive oil and salt. Heat a large, heavy ovenproof skillet or roasting pan in the oven for 5 minutes. Carefully add the asparagus to the hot skillet. It will sizzle a little from the heat. Give it a stir to evenly distribute the oil and asparagus in the pan. Roast until the asparagus is slightly charred and tender, 8 to 10 minutes, tossing them once halfway through.
While the asparagus roasts, cook the vinegar and shallot in a small saucepan over medium heat until the vinegar has evaporated, about 4 minutes. Add the cream and reduce it by one-quarter, about 3 minutes. Reduce the heat to low and stir in the cheese until it’s fully melted. Cook until the sauce is thick enough to coat the asparagus, about 3 minutes more. Stir in the chives, tarragon, and lemon zest. Taste and adjust the seasoning as needed. Drizzle the cheese sauce over the asparagus and serve.
SERVES 4 TO 6 · ACTIVE: 20 MIN · TOTAL: 1 HR 30 MIN
THIS SPRING SOUP IS one of the first things I make when asparagus finally pops out of the ground. The asparagus tips and capers add a crunchy, salty contrast to the silkiness of the soup. If you can get your hands on fresh morels, sauté them with a little garlic and garnish the soup with them.
Fine sea salt
2 bunches medium asparagus (about 2 pounds)
1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon chopped capers
1 teaspoon chopped fresh chives
1 hard-boiled duck or large chicken egg, crumbled
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 large shallot, thinly sliced
1 small parsnip, peeled and thinly sliced
1 tablespoon dry white wine
3 cups Vegetable Stock (here)
Freshly ground black pepper
½ cup plain yogurt
½ cup goat cheese
Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Prepare a large bowl of salted ice water.
Remove the tough ends of the asparagus and compost or discard. Separate the tips from the stalks. Boil the tips until almost tender, about 2 minutes. Drain and immediately transfer to the bowl of ice water. Drain again and dry the tips.
In a small bowl, combine the asparagus tips, olive oil, capers, chives, and egg. Set aside.
Melt the butter in a medium saucepan over low heat. Add the shallot and cook until translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the parsnip slices, cover, and cook until tender but not brown, about 5 minutes. Add the wine and cook for another 2 to 3 minutes, until the wine is almost completely reduced. Pour in the vegetable stock, 1 teaspoon salt, and two turns of black pepper and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium, add the asparagus stalks, and simmer until just tender, about 10 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and let cool for 5 minutes.
Transfer the contents of the saucepan to a blender and puree. Pulse in the yogurt and goat cheese until just combined. Taste and adjust the seasoning as needed. Chill for 1 hour. If needed, adjust the consistency by adding a bit more stock; adjust the seasoning again. Serve in chilled bowls with a sprinkling of the asparagus tip mixture over the top.