TOMATO AND MUSTARD RELISH

MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP · ACTIVE: 20 MIN · TOTAL: 40 MIN

AS A YOUNG COOK in Boston, I made this relish for staff meal, and the head chef liked it so much she turned it into a sauce for filet mignon and added it to the menu. It’s as delicious piled on grilled hot dogs and hamburgers as it is gilding a fancy steak. Wherever ketchup and mustard go, this relish has a place. I prefer it at room temperature, but it works cold or warm, too.

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 small shallot, finely chopped (2 to 3 tablespoons)

1 teaspoon mirin

1 teaspoon white wine vinegar

1 teaspoon soy sauce or tamari

4 ripe plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and cut into ¼-inch dice

1 tablespoon whole-grain mustard

1 teaspoon Roasted Garlic Puree (here), or ½ teaspoon finely grated garlic

1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme leaves

1 tablespoon sliced fresh flat-leaf parsley

Freshly ground black pepper

A few drops of wasabi oil

Melt the butter in a sauté pan over medium heat. Add the shallot and cook until translucent with no browning, about 3 minutes. (If using fresh garlic instead of puree, add it with the shallots.) Add the mirin, vinegar, and soy sauce. Cook for 1 minute, then add the tomatoes, mustard, and garlic puree. Increase the heat to medium-high and continue cooking until most of the moisture is evaporated and the mixture has thickened to a relish-like consistency, about 5 minutes. Add the thyme and remove from the heat. Stir in the parsley, two turns of black pepper, and the wasabi oil. Taste and adjust the seasoning as needed. Refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 2 days.

 

MELTED CHERRY TOMATOES

SERVES 4 · ACTIVE: 10 MIN · TOTAL: 40 MIN

GOOD THINGS HAPPEN WHEN tomatoes are roasted in a bath of olive oil: As their skins pop, their juices mingle with the oil, shallots, and garlic, and become a delicious mess. You can serve this as a side dish or store it in a jar for a few weeks in the fridge. Dress up plain pasta, spread it on a sandwich, or spoon it over fish—you’ll find a million ways to use this once you have it on hand.

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

4 pints mixed cherry and golden tomatoes, stems removed

¼ teaspoon fine sea salt

1 large shallot, finely chopped (about 3 tablespoons)

1 garlic clove, finely chopped (about 1 teaspoon)

2 marjoram sprigs, leaves removed and coarsely chopped (fresh oregano or rosemary also works)

⅛ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 400°F.

Pour the olive oil into a heavy 2-quart casserole dish and put it in the oven for about 5 minutes. When the pan is hot, but not smoking, carefully add the tomatoes and toss to coat them in the oil. Roast the tomatoes until they burst, about 10 minutes.

Add the salt, shallot, and garlic to the casserole dish and stir to combine with the tomatoes. Roast until the shallots are translucent and the tomatoes are soft and broken up, about 20 minutes.

Stir in the marjoram and pepper and let sit for a few minutes to allow the herb to infuse the dish. Just before serving, carefully pour the liquid in the pan into a serving bowl and whisk to create a rich, thick tomato vinaigrette. Add the tomatoes to the serving bowl and toss to coat them in the liquid.