EGGS
SOFT SCRAMBLED EGGS
SERVES 4 · ACTIVE: 20 MIN · TOTAL: 20 MIN
I PUT SCRAMBLED EGGS high on the list of dishes worth mastering. They are among the simplest, most comforting of foods, quick to put together and infinitely variable. Making the lightest, fluffiest, no-fail scrambled eggs requires a couple of extra steps that you may not be used to: first, beating the eggs in a blender to whip more air into them, and then slow-cooking them in a double boiler over low heat so they cook more evenly. This is a surefire way to perfectly cook a big batch of rich, decadent eggs for a group.
8 large eggs
Fine sea salt
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
2 tablespoons crème fraîche or sour cream
2 tablespoons thinly sliced fresh chives
Freshly ground black pepper
4 slices Brioche (here), buttered and toasted
Bring a saucepan of water to a simmer over low heat. Set a large stainless steel bowl over (but not touching) the water.
To thoroughly combine the egg yolks and whites, add them to a blender with a few pinches of salt and blend for about 30 seconds. If you don’t have a blender, whisk thoroughly until completed combined and slightly frothy.
Melt the butter in the double boiler. Pour in the eggs and whisk back and forth, starting slowly and whisking faster as the eggs start to thicken. Make sure to whisk the sides and bottom of the bowl so the eggs cook evenly and no skin forms.
Just as the eggs start to thicken into small, soft curds, after about 5 minutes, remove the bowl from the water (watch out for the hot water dripping from the underside of the bowl). Whisk in the crème fraîche, chives, ½ teaspoon salt, and two turns of black pepper. Serve immediately with the buttered toasted brioche.
DEVILED EGGS THREE WAYS
MAKES 12 HALVES (4 OF EACH KIND) · ACTIVE: 30 MIN · TOTAL: 45 MIN
BACK IN MY CATERING days, I made special bites for the kids at the event. I noticed that any time I included deviled eggs, the adults would wipe the kids’ plates clean of them, so I came up with these versions for a more grown-up palate. What I love about deviled eggs is that no matter how you dress them up, they’re still informal and fun. You can easily scale up any of the filling recipes if you want to stick with one or two varieties.
6 large eggs
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Place the eggs in a saucepan, cover them with cold water by 1 inch, and bring to a boil over medium heat. As soon as the water boils, immediately turn off the heat and let sit for 15 minutes. Transfer the eggs with a slotted spoon to a bowl of ice water and submerge them for 10 minutes to stop cooking. Peel, cut in half lengthwise, and separate the yolks from the whites.
Season the empty egg whites with a light dusting of salt and black pepper.
SMOKY CRAB
2 ounces lump crabmeat, picked free of shells and well drained
2 hard-boiled egg yolks, crumbled
1 tablespoon finely chopped celery
2 tablespoons mayonnaise
½ teaspoon smoked paprika
¼ teaspoon Old Bay seasoning
Dash of Tabasco sauce
Dill sprigs, for garnish
In a small bowl, mash together the crabmeat, egg yolks, celery, mayonnaise, paprika, Old Bay, and Tabasco. Use a spoon to fill 4 of the egg whites, and top each one with a sprig of dill.
LOVAGE AND BACON
2 hard-boiled egg yolks, crumbled
2 tablespoons finely chopped celery
1 tablespoon crumbled cooked bacon or pancetta
1 tablespoon mayonnaise
1 teaspoon thinly sliced fresh lovage or celery leaves
Pinch of fine sea salt
In a small bowl, mash everything together with a large fork. Use a spoon to fill 4 of the egg whites.
CAESAR
2 hard-boiled egg yolks, crumbled
2 tablespoons finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
1 tablespoon mayonnaise
1 teaspoon finely chopped oil-packed anchovies
1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
1 teaspoon sliced fresh chives or scallions or Roasted Garlic Puree (here)
Dash of Worcestershire sauce
Freshly ground black pepper
Fine sea salt (optional)
4 to 8 small arugula leaves
In a small bowl, mash the egg yolks, cheese, mayonnaise, anchovies, lemon zest, chives, Worcestershire, and one turn of black pepper using a large fork. Taste and season with salt if needed. Use a spoon to fill 4 of the egg whites, and top each one with 1 or 2 arugula leaves.