SEASONING
Salt and Pepper
There may be no ingredients used as frequently as salt and pepper, so they deserve special consideration.
Salt granules have different shapes. Size determines how quickly it dissolves, how it feels between your fingers, and just how much of it fits into a teaspoon. I like Himalayan pink salt for the table and fine sea salt to season with while cooking. I find the flavor of kosher salt to be a bit aggressive, but if I do use it, I prefer light, flaky Diamond Crystal. Finish a dish with coarse fleur de sel to add a salty crunch. Maldon sea salt flakes are best for finishing delicate dishes.
A vintage pepper mill on the table is both useful and visual. Freshly ground pepper from a mill is more aromatic and fragrant than pre-ground because the oils that carry much of the subtle flavor deteriorate when they’re exposed to air. I like Tellicherry pepper from western India because of its balance between heat and earthiness. White pepper has a cleaner flavor, which results from the outer shell being removed. I encourage you to give freshly ground white pepper a try; it’s easy to find. Pepper, like most spices, has a shelf life of around six months for maximum flavor.
Tamari and soy sauce are good condiments for adding both salinity and umami. I prefer tamari over soy because it contains no wheat (gluten) and has richer flavor with less of a harsh, salty edge. Buying organic ensures that the products being used are non-GMO. 
AROMATIC SALTS
MAKES ABOUT ½ CUP
CITRUS SALT
1 lemon, lime, or blood orange
½ cup coarse sea salt
Preheat the oven to 200°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
Zest the fruit with a sharp vegetable peeler to get ½-inch strips. Remove any white pith from the inside of the zest. Scatter the zest on the prepared baking sheet and place it in the oven for about 5 hours. (Or, microwave it on low power for about 12 minutes.) Grind the dried peel with the salt in a spice grinder until fine. Store in a sealed jar.
HERB SALT
½ cup coarse sea salt
2 tablespoons dried thyme (lemon thyme, sage, or rosemary work well too)
Grind the salt and herbs together in a spice grinder until fine. Store in a sealed jar.
PRICKLY ASH SALT
½ cup coarse sea salt
1 tablespoon Szechuan peppercorns
Grind the salt and peppercorns together in a spice grinder until fine. Store in a sealed jar.
VANILLA SALT
1 vanilla bean
½ cup coarse sea salt
Cut the vanilla bean in half lengthwise. Scrape the vanilla seeds out of the pod and add to the salt (set aside the pod). Grind the salt and seeds together in a spice grinder until combined but the granules are still coarse. Store in a sealed glass jar with the bean pod inside.