David Scott balanced a sense of airiness and enclosure in the foyer of a Southampton home, cladding the expansive space in rich wood slats. The bare floor and wide span of glass instill a gallery-like feel, reinforced by the sculptural console.
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CONSIDERATIONS
Certain design elements are common to every room in the home. These include an appropriate (and suitably diverse) lighting scheme, a good sense of spatial flow, and a functional layout. No matter the space, it should be designed to support the short list of primary activities taking place there, which will differ depending on the homeowner’s lifestyle. (Some people read or work in the den, others watch TV there.) So while every dining area shares signature features—namely, an eating surface plus seating—they could be specified in any number of ways depending on the size of the room, the number of diners, and the desired ambience: a quartet of bentwood chairs around a Parsons table, a pair of leather-covered stools at the kitchen countertop, long benches spanning a refectory table. The key dimensions included throughout this section aren’t hard-and-fast rules—much depends on a particular space—but are useful guidelines. Indeed, there is no formula or recipe for designing a room, but there are frameworks and specific questions to ask, and considerations to keep in mind for every type of space.
ENTRYWAYS
Entryways create an experience, a sense of physical and psychological pause upon arriving and departing. An entry is a threshold, a word that has a concrete definition as well as symbolic content. “Crossing a threshold” can mean simply entering from the outdoors in, or passing from room to room, but it’s often used narratively to describe transitioning into a new phase of life, making a serious commitment, or entering an inner sanctum. All entrances tap into this deeper meaning, conjuring a sense of anticipation and heightened awareness and, conversely, creating a moment of release and exhalation.
AN ENTRYWAY IS ALSO A PLACE TO EXPRESS THE PERSONALITY OF THE HOME AND ITS RESIDENTS THROUGH CAREFUL SELECTION OF COLOR AND PATTERN, LIGHTING AND FURNISHINGS.
David Scott balanced a sense of airiness and enclosure in the foyer of a Southampton home, cladding the expansive space in rich wood slats. The bare floor and wide span of glass instill a gallery-like feel, reinforced by the sculptural console.
THE BIG QUESTIONS
Is this the front or back entryway to the residence? The main or auxiliary one? Location and status will influence the level of formality as well as practical considerations regarding storage for items such as shoes, coats, packages, and mail.
Who will be using the entry and how often? Is this portal primarily for guests or for daily use by the inhabitants?
How do the homeowners want to present themselves to visitors?
Where does the homeowner’s lifestyle fall on the spectrum of casual to formal?
Does one enter this space from the outdoors (a walkway, a front porch, etc.) or from another interior, such as the hallway of a large apartment building or a garage? Exposure to the elements—and whether those entering will have wiped their feet already—may inform how hard-wearing the finishes need to be.
Is the space enclosed by walls or a door, or does it open directly onto (or offer sight lines into) a number of other rooms? (In the latter case, it is important to choose cohesive wall and floor finishes and give attention to the visual flow between the spaces.)
What is the atmosphere and color palette of adjacent spaces?
Is the main staircase located here?
Does the entry need to serve other purposes, doubling as a library or an art gallery, for instance? In space-challenged urban apartments, entries are often used as a dining area or an auxiliary sitting spot, or for storage.
An oversize artwork and tableau of special pieces transform a small entryway by Villalobos Desio into a special moment. The pieces offer a preview of what’s to come—announcing the home of a collector—while the space addresses functional needs like seating and storage.
SIGNATURE ELEMENTS
Whether the entry is a grand foyer or a more serviceable arrival zone, these areas provide welcome, shelter, and a practical place to store coats, keys, packages, handbags, and the like. The following elements should be included as part of an entryway:
1LIGHTING
Appropriate lighting—a table lamp, decorative chandelier, or wall sconces—to supplement recessed overhead fixtures. This combination creates a sense of atmosphere and helps people find shoes and keys more easily. Ceiling fixtures should be as bright as possible—ideally fluorescent bulbs or track lighting. Be sure to locate light switches within arm’s reach of the door.
2COAT CLOSET
A closet large enough to accommodate approximately twenty coats, short and long. To maximize usability, avoid sliding doors in favor of hinged ones, for a wider opening. Ideally, a closet also needs an upper shelf for items such as hats and bags. Many homes without a closet use an informal coat tree or wall-mounted pegs and hooks to hang everyday jackets and hats. A common feature of country or eclectic interiors is a multipurpose hall bench that combines seating, coat pegs, hat shelf, and basket storage (for gloves, mittens, shoes, and scarves).
3SEATING
A place to sit—such as a chair, an ottoman, or a bench—for one or two people to put on or remove shoes (and, in some cases, change into slippers). It’s common to flank a console with two chairs or to tuck an ottoman below. Even a small stool will suffice in a snug space.
4MIRROR
Aside from its primary purpose—to check a reflection upon entering or before leaving—a mirror also visually expands a space, which can be a desirable feature in small quarters.
5SURFACE
A console table, a small chest, or a wallhung shelf can serve as a surface to corral keys, packages, mail, and other items. Or, if square footage permits, use a central table, ideally round (for better circulation).
Cullman & Kravis envisioned an elegant foyer that reflects its owner, an art collector. Next to the door is a sideboard with mirror above; on either side of the portal to the living room are low benches upholstered in a tiger print. Grandly scaled moldings and a ceiling sheathed in glazed aluminum leaf amplify the sophistication.
DESIGN & DECORATING CONSIDERATIONS
The design scheme of the entry area should introduce the homeowner’s lifestyle and aesthetic preferences, and relate to or complement the palette of the adjacent rooms.
Neutral or Bold?
If the entry is fairly open to contiguous spaces—with wide doorways and abundant sight lines, for instance—more neutral colors and finishes are generally favorable, so as not to clash with what’s to come. Even if the foyer is relatively self-contained, it should still feel of a piece with the surrounding rooms and consistent with the overall scheme and vibe. At the same time, because transitional spaces are for passing through, not lingering, they provide an opportunity for making a dramatic statement that would be overbold in a living area: rich or bright paint colors, overscale wallpapers, precious surfacing treatments such as silver leaf, fanciful lighting, and artwork—or all of the above.
Creating Architectural Presence
Often devoid of architectural interest, entries, hallways, and stairwells are rarely destinations in their own right. However, they can often serve perfectly as galleries for showcasing art, photographs, and collections. Such a display can transform a boring pass-through into a spatial experience. Treating a foyer or a hallway as a “gallery” (and even referring to it as such) implies that people will pause there to look more closely.
“ENTRIES ARE A MOMENT OF PAUSE—A DECOMPRESSION CHAMBER. SOMETIMES THEY’RE QUITE CALIBRATED, SOMETIMES POW! BUT EVEN WHEN YOU DO A BOLD GESTURE, IT’S IMPORTANT TO RESTRAIN YOURSELF SOMEWHAT: YOU DON’T WANT TO GIVE IT ALL AWAY THE SECOND THAT PEOPLE WALK IN THE DOOR.”
—Amy Lau, designer
Kati Curtis accented an entry’s existing tin ceiling with a vintage light fixture.
What to Do When Walls Are Few
Although front entries are commonly a dedicated and enclosed room or hall, wall space is often limited due to the presence of multiple doorways, or when the space houses a staircase. In this case, cohesion and decorative interest can come from a special floor or ceiling treatment or a hanging light fixture, such as a pendant or a chandelier. Establish a focal point with a bold door color, or create a sense of place by using a strongly patterned or whimsical wallcovering.
Carving Out an Entry Zone
In smaller and less formal homes—and in many urban apartments—the front door often opens directly into a living area (or the kitchen). In this case, strategic use of furnishings and floor, wall, or ceiling treatments—a bench or slipper chair for removing shoes, coat hooks on the wall—can help establish an entry zone that’s suitably special. Conjure the illusion of a discrete hall through a well-conceived furniture plan: facing the sofa away from the door and placing a console behind it, for instance, or selecting a custom rug with a bold border to evoke the feel of a room within a room.
Palm-frond wallcovering makes a welcoming statement—and graphic impact—in a room by Pamela Banker Associates.
A super-functional entry nook by Gideon Mendelson features a built-in bench with storage drawers below and a row of wall hooks for stashing coats and bags.
BACK ENTRIES & MUDROOMS
Located at a back door or at the transition from garage to home, mudrooms are primarily for use by the homeowners and are more overtly functional and hardworking than their front entry counterparts. Sometimes mudrooms even house washers, dryers, and ironing boards, or are used to store groceries and bulk paper goods, thereby functioning as a laundry, pantry, or housekeeping closet. All of the signature elements of a front entry should be present plus the following:
Somewhere to store dirty boots, sneakers, sports equipment, and jackets
As much storage and shelving space as possible
Durable, stain-resistant, and easy-to-clean flooring, such as porcelain tile, slate, or washable indoor/outdoor rugs
LIVING AREAS
A living room is a place to tell a story, appealing to different moods, purposes, and personalities. More than any other room in a home, the living area takes on many guises—from a laid-back family room, frequented morning till night, to a formal space used primarily when entertaining. A living area can be a large den furnished with multiple seating groups or an intimate conversation area for four in one corner of a studio apartment, with a bed set up to double as a sofa.
Regardless of its demeanor, a living area must be designed to support the specific activities taking place there, whether solo time or social gatherings, quiet reading or group TV watching. The other imperative is to determine exactly how formal or casual the room should be; will users perch or sprawl on the sofa, for instance? The answer will guide everything from the choice of fabrics to the furniture layout and plushness of the seating. Experienced through the senses, it should be designed with deep attention to surfaces to be touched and to visual delights—how views are framed or an artwork showcased—inviting the eye and mind to linger.
“DON’T LISTEN TO THAT OLD SAW ABOUT HOW THREE PEOPLE NEVER SIT ON A SOFA. BEAUTY OR POWER (OR A COMBINATION OF THE TWO) WILL LOAD A SOFA WITH ARDENT OCCUPANTS IN A MINUTE.”
—Mark Hampton, Mark Hampton on Decorating
Strong but quiet patterning and abundant texture distinguish a window-wrapped living room by Stefan Steil.
THE BIG QUESTIONS
Who are the primary users? Consider everyone in the family: adults, children, pets.
How many should the room seat?
What activities or pastimes will take place here: reading, knitting, listening to music, game playing? When and how often? Each activity will likely need its own furnishings and lighting, and a sense of separation.
Are there electrical outlets near the activity areas? What type? How many are needed?
What kind of illumination do the activities need? Balance lighting for close work such as crafts or reading with a general ambient glow from table lamps, floor lamps, and ceiling downlights.
Does the homeowner entertain, and in what manner? Does she host small seated gatherings, large family affairs for seventy-five, or cocktail parties at which some guests sit and others stand?
Is the inhabitants’ lifestyle casual or formal?
Where are the doorways and main circulation routes? Their placement will often suggest where to position the main and secondary seating areas.
Is there an architectural focal point, such as a fireplace or a picture window?
Will important artwork or a collection be displayed?
Do people watch TV here? Should the monitor be the central focus of the primary seating arrangement? Should it be exposed or hidden?
What is the flooring material, and can (or should) it be changed?
Will there be area rugs? If so, it’s important to size them appropriately, relative to the furniture groupings and circulation paths.
To make a snug living room appear grander in scale, Villalobos Desio specified a wall-to-wall striped carpet and streamlined window treatments that extend all the way to the ceiling.
Kristin Fine faced a challenge in designing a furniture plan for this living room. Although large in size, it features an overabundance of doorways: two leading to the adjacent sunroom, and two into the entry hall. She followed the logical flow of foot traffic, using natural circulation routes to define boundaries between seating groups: a pair of benches facing off on either side of the fireplace, and a conversation area with a bay window as backdrop. Bold fabrics are relegated to a small canvas—the pair of Louis side chairs—and specified textured neutrals for the larger pieces.
SIGNATURE ELEMENTS
Given the myriad activities that take place in a living area, it must include a mix of seats and tables, layered illumination, and carefully integrated AV and electronic equipment. Storage is another critical feature, whether built-in or freestanding (a hutch, a cabinet, or an armoire).
1 LIGHTING
A living space needs both general ambient and task lighting. Place fixtures to support the diversity of activities and gatherings expected to take place. Where will someone read a book? Knit? Sketch? Watch TV? Let function—and natural illumination—guide the scheme. A multipurpose space that houses activities throughout the day needs a wide spectrum of light sources:
Table lamps
Floor lamps
Wall sconces
Art lighting
A chandelier
Overhead ambient lighting, recessed or track
Cove or concealed lighting to impart a glow
2 FOCAL POINT
Every living area needs a focal point of some sort to anchor the primary seating group. It could be a prized artwork that commands attention, or an architectural feature, such as a fireplace or a window wall. In many living areas, it is the TV.
3 SEATING
Every living space revolves around a comfortable seating area, to bring people together and to serve as a restful setting for individual pursuits. To nurture conversation, seating vignettes should be sized for two or more people to talk. If the room is spacious enough, a secondary furniture group is preferred to one large, hotel lobby–like assemblage. Here are some common types of seating:
Sofa. The standard-bearer in a living room offers ample surface area for sitting.
Sectional. Both L- and U-shaped varieties are best for casual hangouts and family snuggling; they’re less appropriate for formal interiors.
Chairs. Commingling a diversity of chair styles can lend personality to a room. Chairs also visually balance the larger scale of a sofa.
Ottomans and benches. Ranging from petite footstools to bed-size platforms, they bring another element of scale to the space and can be moved to service different groupings.
4 FLOOR COVERING
A strategically placed area rug anchors and outlines a furniture grouping, enhancing the feeling of enclosure, togetherness, and coziness. Use one large area rug to tie together two seating groups or a pair of smaller, matching rugs—one for each vignette—to create the illusion of rooms within a room.
5 SURFACES
Every seat needs a horizontal surface within reach to support drinks, books, remotes, and the like. Coffee tables can range from a cluster of small pieces to a huge piece holding its own with a grand sectional. Side tables, consoles, nesting tables, and footed stacking trays are other good choices, as is a mobile bar cart.
Every seat in a living room by Cullman & Kravis has a table surface within arm’s reach. In addition to making for a highly functional decor, the tables add visual variety in a room typically dominated by seating.
A mix of light sources—including a swing-arm sconce—and an offbeat art arrangement distinguish an inviting living area by Neal Beckstedt. The sconce can be repositioned as desired to wash different parts of the room with light or switch up the mood. To give the large canvas hanging over the sofa even more emphasis, he hung two smaller works near a top corner.
A pair of sofas face off in a sparely appointed living room by Donald Billinkoff, in which modern classics lend sculptural presence.
SPATIAL PLANNING
Human beings yearn to feel physically and mentally secure when at rest, an idea rooted in evolutionary theory. Since living spaces are for relaxing—for literally letting down one’s guard—the furniture arrangement must provide psychologically “safe” places to sit. Essentially, people prefer to sit where their personal space is protected, even a bit sheltered. Accordingly, most conversation areas array seating in an L- or U-shaped configuration. Ideally, seating faces the entry to the space, which abets circulation through the room. In most living areas, spatial constraints and the location of doorways dictate that seats and tables be pushed up against a wall in order to fit. But where square footage permits the grouping to be positioned in the middle of a room, the furnishings and area rug together can create and define a protected outer boundary.
A seating group needs four elements:
A way to get into it
A focal point
Circulation around it
Comfort
CONVERSATION AREAS
A room is always based on a module. Although a handful of basic arrangements predominate, variations within the theme are many. Most conversation areas will fall into the framework of a square doughnut: roughly square in proportion, delimited on two or more sides by seating, with an open area in the middle for a coffee table and circulation. One side will typically be devoted to the sofa plus one or two end tables. The secondary seats should be arranged across from the sofa and/or perpendicular to it (which is more conducive to conversation). In either case, the secondary “arm” of seating plus an attendant side table should be arranged to correspond to the length of the sofa arm.
For example: A typical sofa is roughly 8 feet long and 36 inches deep. Bracketed by a pair of end tables, the span equals about 14 feet. Perpendicular to it could go a pair of club chairs and, across, a chaise.
DESIGN & DECORATING CONSIDERATIONS
Living areas are complex, all-day spaces, so a deft layering of scales, colors, textures, and patterns is essential to enlivening a room.
Designing for Interaction
When designing any living area, consider how many people it should seat and what type of interaction it will support: one-on-one conversation, group chitchat, big parties? To create a welcoming, comfortable living area, take a cue from anthropologist Edward T. Hall, who outlined four zones of physical interaction:
Intimate: 0 to 18 inches for solo time
Personal: 18 inches to 4 feet for tête-à-têtes
Social: 4 to 12 feet for groups of three to six
Public: 12 to 25 feet for large gatherings
Use these zones to determine how many guests a space can comfortably sit. While it may be possible to fit twelve people into a small 10-by-10-foot room, they will likely feel uncomfortable in such tight quarters.
One Seating Area, or Two?
Even in a small room, it is essential to include both a primary seating group—at minimum, a sofa plus two chairs and a coffee table—and a secondary one nearby. “Having more than one furniture group in a room always works better,” says designer Bunny Williams. “The scale of furnishings in a living room is so important: you need intimacy, for people to be close to one another. A ten-foot-long sofa with a twin-bed-size coffee table doesn’t work—even in a big space where you entertain large groups.” The secondary group can be simply an armchair and an ottoman, two chairs flanking a table, or a small settee or loveseat. Table or floor lamps will create a pool of light to emphasize each grouping.
Mix Mobile with Weighty
It’s a good idea to balance solid, permanent furniture with pieces that are lightweight and mobile, such as occasional chairs and ottomans on casters. The heavier furnishings anchor the grouping, while the movable ones allow for flexibility in the arrangement depending on the activity or users. “Keep the layout simple, because you can’t lock all the furniture into place,” says designer Matthew Patrick Smyth. “Once you have guests over or your cleaning person vacuums, things will move around a bit.”
How to Size an Area Rug
Think of the area rug as a sort of place mat for a seating arrangement: always size the rug so its edges outline the entire furniture grouping. This means that all furnishings should fit entirely on the rug—no errant feet stepping beyond its borders. There are two exceptions to this rule. A large rug can sometimes take up much of an entire room, defining and unifying all the furniture atop it, leaving exposed just a few feet of gleaming wood floor. Consoles, bookcases, additional pull-up chairs, or other occasional pieces can occupy the bare-floored perimeter. The other instance is when layering two rugs; for example, placing a small, precious antique rug atop a larger, neutral stretch of sisal (a great trick to boost visual impact). The sisal should outline the grouping, while the decorative piece should float within its inside edges. In no case should furniture sit on a bare floor, grouped around a small rug—an arrangement that does justice to neither rug nor room.
Specifying a Sofa and a Coffee Table for Comfort
Sizing guidelines for sofa-seat height vis-à-vis the coffee table—its height and distance—are somewhat flexible and interdependent. What’s essential is that people can easily reach the tabletop from a relaxed sitting position. Accordingly, consider the softness and fill of the sofa cushion; leaning forward from a sink-into-it seat to reach the coffee table can be difficult. In this case, keep the table a bit closer or taller. Or specify a slightly higher sofa when plush cushioning is desired.
Carving Out Space for Kids
Children yearn to exercise their independence, but can do so only in settings in which they feel secure. They naturally gravitate to areas where they have privacy and can play freely. At the same time, they want reassurance that an adult is near. When designing a living space (one not so formal as to be off-limits to children), incorporate alcoves, nooks, and similar features where young ones can play on their own yet within sight or earshot of an adult. A small, comfy chair or a beanbag can beckon them to join the family in reading or other activities.
Incorporating the TV
“In a living area, a television can be quite limiting designwise,” says designer Elizabeth Pyne. Think about hiding a flatscreen behind an artwork or a mirror that lifts up or slides aside, or in a custom cabinet with retracting doors. Does the TV even need to be there? “I believe a living room should be a drawing room, a space for entertaining, whereas television watching is an intimate experience, best in a smaller den,” Pyne adds. “Unless it’s part of how you socialize—or this is the home’s only living space—consider relegating the TV elsewhere.”
Designing Media Centers
There are a few things to keep in mind if the room is to be used as a media center—mostly for TV watching, video-game playing, and listening to music. Ensure good acoustics by deploying as many soft textures as possible: a rug, window treatments, upholstered furniture or walls, cork wallcovering, and the like. Speaker systems are all-important for enjoyment; an AV specialist can assist with the technical side. To eliminate glare, opt for blackout shades.
Gray tones and metallic accents bring the view—of cityscape and sky—into a living room by Stefan Steil.
Carol Egan put a funky twist on a traditional seating group, using a low bench in lieu of a sofa, with a pair of colorful shell chairs across. A small stool serves as the coffee table. The lightweight pieces can be moved around during casual gatherings or to enlarge other conversation areas.
Matthew Patrick Smyth adhered to a traditional furniture plan for a formal living room replete with modern art. Near the fireplace, a secondary seating group combining an eclectic mix of pieces is oriented around a library table.
Overstuffed seating brings a lived-in touch to a living room by Ellen Fisher. Because the upholstery is so plush, she chose a slightly higher-than-usual coffee table for ease of use.
Suzanne Lovell recessed a flatscreen TV into a stone hearth, ensuring that, when it’s turned off, attention stays on the verdant views through the windows.
WORK AREAS
Work can take many forms—reading, writing, number crunching—and so can a work area. Residential spaces conceived for these activities range from a large, wood-paneled library to a sliver of kitchen countertop just big enough to house a computer and a notebook or calendar, making it “command central” for a busy family. Thanks to laptops and Wi-Fi, work can be accomplished from any corner of the home, yet most people still prefer a dedicated station for stashing files and accomplishing focused tasks. A home office will ideally offer a work surface and some measure of quiet and visual privacy, plus organized storage.
A WELL-DESIGNED WORKSPACE—HIGHLY FUNCTIONAL BUT ALSO INSPIRING—CAN BOOST CREATIVITY AND PRODUCTIVITY.
A lively but smartly designed office area by Thom Filicia supports serious work while also giving the eye—and mind—plenty to linger on: fine artwork, well-placed accessories, and graphic patterns.
THE BIG QUESTIONS
Who will be working here?
What type of work does she do: real-estate sales, household management, legal work, PTA coordination, tutoring, philanthropic efforts?
What activities does the work entail: talking on the phone, interviewing people face-to-face, spreading out visuals, crafting?
Is the workplace situated in a public space at the heart of family activities or somewhere buffered from the busy traffic of home life?
Will visitors need to access the office?
Will the space be used daily or only occasionally?
What time of day will it be used most often?
Are privacy and freedom from distractions a concern—either to aid concentration or because the work requires confidentiality?
Is a meeting area or a sitting area needed to supplement the work surface?
What type of equipment will the space house: a computer, a printer, a scanner/copier? Large machines can eat up sizable real estate and need electrical outlets and sometimes surge protection.
How much and what type of storage is required? Common items to be accommodated include reference books, files, folders, desk accessories, random papers, office supplies, and bulk items such as copy paper, ink, and toner.
For a busy mother of three, Kristin Fine designed a secluded home office that serves as an adult retreat. Dead space below the eave was utilized for low built-ins, while the angular desk stands close to the center of the room. The table lamp has a clear base so as not to block the view.
SIGNATURE ELEMENTS
Regardless of their style or square footage, all home office areas require a work surface, proper lighting, and accessible storage. These same features could fulfill the needs of an informal kitchen “command center,” a traditionally appointed library, or a lounge-like study.
1WORK SURFACE
These can vary in size and format, from a freestanding desk to a shelf or built-in countertop sited in an odd nook. The surface should be ample enough to allow for a laptop or a computer monitor, a pad of paper, and basic necessities such as tape, a stapler, and pencils. File cabinets and a pencil drawer below are added bonuses.
2TACK SURFACE
An immediately adjacent tack surface or corkboard offers a place for creative types to curate a mood board, for a parent to display school notices and shopping lists, or for an author to pin important papers. Also helpful is a magnetic whiteboard, a blackboard, or another temporary writing surface. (Whiteboard or chalkboard paint is a great alternative to wall-hung boards.)
3SHELVING
Most work areas require some kind of shelving nearby for books and memorabilia, such as family photographs, diplomas, or trophies. Home offices are also nice venues for displaying artwork and collections of objects.
4POWER SOURCE
Work areas require appropriately placed electrical outlets and receptacles for Internet connections, routers, base units, phone chargers, and landlines. Outlets wired for surge protection are crucial to accommodate computers and hard drives. Multifunction scanner/copier machines and similar equipment need dedicated circuits and special receptacles.
5LIGHTING
More than almost any other area of the home, a study or a desk needs to be carefully lit in order to be fully functional. These spaces require general ambient light as well as task lighting to illuminate the work surface. Undercabinet strip lighting (either LED or fluorescent) can serve this purpose in a kitchen or another room with upper cabinetry. The task lamp should cast a glow that can be focused on the desktop without throwing glare into the eyes of the person working. A lamp is also a design statement that can support the overall look and feel of the room.
Vintage furnishings—a shelving unit and a leather-topped desk—bring a collected feel to an office by David Scott. A combination of open shelving and closed cabinetry accommodates collectibles and office supplies alike.
A wall-mounted shelving system establishes a work zone in an apartment by Stefan Steil. White-painted walls and pale-wood floors uphold the sleek and restful tone established by judiciously styled open shelves.
Lacquered walls dignify an alcove office area by Amanda Poole Parisi, Hong Molitor-Xu, and Jamie Drake of Drake/Anderson. Wraparound shelving maximizes available space and helps keep the work surface free of clutter.
DESIGN & DECORATING CONSIDERATIONS
The location of the work area within the home will guide numerous design factors: the degree of privacy and protection from distraction needed, the size of the surfaces or storage that can reasonably fit, and how to accommodate visitors. If the office space is being integrated into a living area, it will be important to ensure it looks appropriately residential and not too workaday.
Alan Tanksley used a large-scale painting to anchor an airy work area. A stool placed at one end of the desk serves as an auxiliary perch or a place to stash books and objects, keeping the work surface neat. Ample daylight is supplemented by a table lamp that illuminates the primary reading/writing spot.
Matthew Patrick Smyth floated a desk near a bay window to carve out a work zone in a living room. An ottoman placed in front of the vignette keeps it from looking too utilitarian.
In a grand salon by Alexa Hampton, a large library table flanked by armchairs offers a spot to peruse books—or type on a laptop.
Creating a Private Zone
Privacy requirements will vary depending on the nature of the work being done, the documents being used, and the personal preferences of the inhabitants. Scholars and professionals who work at home often require a separate room, with a lockable door, to provide acoustic privacy and prevent interruption. A home office for an accountant or a therapist requires confidentiality for the clients and, by virtue of space planning, a barrier between home and work. A kitchen work area will be effectively open to whoever passes by. When doors and walls are not an option, good storage (including closed shelving and lockable drawers) can safeguard important papers.
Avoiding Cord Disorder
Plan in advance where equipment such as printers, scanners, fax machines, routers, and even phone chargers will go, and place their corresponding outlets accordingly. This will help prevent the tangle of cords and wires that inevitably plagues work areas. Under-counter channels and cord ties also help create a professional atmosphere. If a freestanding desk is not anchored to a wall, locate electrical receptacles in the floor, right nearby, so cords don’t need to be stretched across the room—which is both a safety hazard and visually undesirable.
A tonal color palette and dynamic art installation give a home office by CetraRuddy quiet glamour. Since this is not a heavy-duty work area, finishes and materials can be more precious: a sheepskin-upholstered chair, a glass-topped table with Lucite base, and an angular settee.
How to Store Items
Office supplies and paperwork demand tailored storage: file drawers, shelving, cabinets with doors, and different sizes of drawers specific to their contents. A home office can really benefit from a custom millwork solution.
Cupboards and cabinets. It’s preferable to have flexible space to keep stationery, copy paper, ink, toner, and paper towels close at hand. The best kind of storage for miscellaneous objects is a cabinet with shelves, either a cupboard or a closet. Drawers of varying sizes are a great help. Depending on the design of the work area, mount cabinets or shelves directly above the desk.
File cabinets. Both types—vertical and flat files—can be specified with two, three, four, or five drawers. Two-drawer file cabinets for letter- or legal-size paper are sized to fit under a typical 30-inch-high desktop or work surface. Custom desks and cabinets follow the same dimensions.
Cullman & Kravis designed an intimate work spot for a guest bedroom. To one side of the antique desk, built-in shelving showcases personal mementos.
A Soft (and Softening) Touch
Given the hard surfaces that predominate in home workspaces, these areas can benefit from softer elements to dampen noise and improve acoustics: area rugs or wall-to-wall carpeting, upholstered seating, curtains, fabric-upholstered walls, and even a corkboard or a leather desktop.
Containing Clutter Artfully
Offices can present a challenge for people who like to keep current projects out on their work surface, or who file papers by piling them in stacks on a desk—even when there is enough room for closed storage. The trick to instilling order is to create frameworks to contain clutter: box shelves, trays, and other elements that define a border around—or boundary for—clutter. When office accessories are carefully selected and part of a coordinated set, they create visual order and express the overall aesthetic.
A zebra-print rug grounds an artful study by David Scott. Strong profiles and rich textures, including flannel and mohair, telegraph a masculine vibe.
DINING AREAS
Dining areas aren’t just where meals are taken. They are a source of nourishment on an emotional level. As places for people to come together and bond with others or to sit down for calming solo time, they play an important role in a home and have deep-rooted cultural significance. Mealtime is a primal moment; the ritual of eating connects people to each other—and to wherever they are.
Contemporary lifestyles have altered the stature and shape of the dining room. Today, many people adopt this underused and formal space for daily activities: to gather with friends, do homework, read a book, play a game, pay bills, write the shopping list. Accordingly, dining spaces are often designed to double as a library, home office, or study. And as modern residential interiors have become more open and fluid, so too has the dividing line between dining and living areas. Meals occur in many more locations in the home (at the kitchen island, at a table in the family room) and often more casually. While a dedicated dining room implies a certain formality, a place for eating within another room connotes relaxed welcome and individuality—and efficient use of space.
Cushioned window seating supplements vintage cane-back chairs in a dining area by Gideon Mendelson.
THE BIG QUESTIONS
Who will use the dining room?
Will one person usually eat here alone or share meals with others? How many?
Is the inhabitants’ way of living casual, formal, or somewhere in between?
How does the family wish to present themselves to guests?
Will all meals be taken here, or will it only be used at certain times of day (breakfast, dinner) or year (primarily during holidays or weekend dinner parties)?
What other activities—working, reading, listening to music—occur in the space or on the dining surface?
How often does the family entertain, and in what manner (cocktails, seated dinners, potlucks, pizza parties)? Will they sometimes use the dining room for buffet service?
What relationship should this space have with the kitchen? Should the two be separated or more unified?
The dining room of designer Joan Dineen’s turn-of-the-century townhouse features elegant wood paneling that is original to the space. Deco-influenced furnishings reiterate the period vibe, while more modern elements such as contemporary art and a vintage 1970s chandelier bring an element of contrast.
SIGNATURE ELEMENTS
Whether in the form of a tucked-away nook or a window-wrapped breakfast room, all dining areas share two elements: seating plus eating surface. Eating spaces present a prime opportunity for indulging in special decorative treatments: scenic wallpaper, a sculptural lighting fixture, an art installation, and mementos. Diners are a captive audience, after all.
1EATING SURFACE
When people come together to share food and conversation, the focus is on the center of the table or eating surface. The size and shape are usually determined by the number of diners it will accommodate, the proportion and layout of the room, the placement of doors, and the circulation paths.
2SEATING
The choices are endless: simple, ornate, with or without arms, counter- or standard-height stools, upholstered or bare wood, banquette or bench. Maintain one style or mix two variations, placing the more monumental or formal seating at the heads of the dining table.
3SERVING SURFACE
A serving surface should be within easy reach of the table. A credenza or a sideboard for storing fancy wedding china and extra linens does double duty as a buffet for serving platters. If space permits, deploy two serving surfaces: a hutch, a movable cart, or even a bookcase will suffice as the auxiliary piece.
4LIGHTING
Choose illumination that sets the right mood and flatters guests and food alike. Be sure to include the following iterations—all on dimmers, if possible:
General ambient light
A large decorative fixture to create a focal point over the center of the table
Sconces for character and to wash the walls with light as a focal point
5PASSAGE SPACE
Sufficient passage space around the furniture is needed for ease of circulation and graceful service.
6ART AND ACCESSORIES
These decorative items should round out the mix and bring a sense of scale to the room, not to mention personality.
7FLOORING
A rug is optional and depends on personal preference and functional considerations such as cleanliness and acoustics. The flatter, heavier, and larger the rug the better, both to allow ease of movement and to ensure that all chair legs will fit on top even when pulled out.
Donald Billinkoff positioned a vintage credenza at the head of a dining table. The attenuated form of the lighting pendant helps wash the entire eating surface with illumination during mealtime. Armless side chairs are easier to shimmy into when the table is full.
SPATIAL PLANNING
The arrangement of furniture in a dining area will depend on the inhabitants’ lifestyle and how meals are taken. For example, large extended families who dine together can benefit from a long table with relaxed seating nearby. If the homeowner hosts formal holiday celebrations, consider several small tables set up near—but not adjacent to—one another. Expansive rooms for frequent entertainers allow for one large or several small tables for sit-down meals; those who lean toward semiannual cocktail parties need open space for a crowd. Certain cultures may also have preferred furniture arrangements.
A bordered rug gives the dining area of an open-plan loft by Coffinier Ku a sense of enclosure.
DESIGN & DECORATING CONSIDERATIONS
Dining spaces can range from formal, dedicated rooms to California kitchens, which are a combination of great room and cookery made de rigueur by interior designer Mariette Himes Gomez in the 1980s. Loft living requires designing the dining area as a space within a space, and studio apartments call for double-duty furnishings and activity zones. The selection of table material and base, the lighting scheme, and the chair style—how each looks from the front and the back—are critical decision points that will add up to a particular ambience.
Deformalizing the Dining Room
“A formal dining room can be such a waste of space unless you have a big, traditional house,” says Neal Beckstedt. “Make it more functional by adding shelving so it can be used as a library, or specify a table that’s comfortable for working on a laptop.” To create a more versatile space, consider using two small tables (in lieu of one big one) that can be pushed together as needed.
Avoiding an Empty Look
Think about what the room will look like even when not in use. Dining rooms—especially those not frequently in service—can appear woefully uninhabited (and a bit like conference rooms) with abundant empty chairs around a bare table. “I’m not a fan of what I call the ‘cluster’: a massive table surrounded by tons of chairs,” says Beckstedt. “I prefer a smaller table with just one or two chairs, so the dining room looks like a study, and then sprinkling the rest of the chairs around the home or apartment—you can just round them up when dinner guests come. The look is more casual.” Or consider designing the space so that extra chairs can be pushed up against the wall, perhaps flanking a credenza or side table.
Accessorizing a Tabletop
“People often neglect their dining room tables—especially in larger homes where daily eating occurs elsewhere,” says designer Alexis Givens. “Dining rooms are often just furnished with a table and chairs so they don’t have much going on decorwise; a single bowl or pair of candlesticks won’t cut it in this case. Use a large, underutilized dining surface to create an installation or showcase a cool collection of larger items: vases, stacks of dishware, an array of different candlesticks.”
Dramatic Lighting for Mealtime
Overhead fixtures, such as chandeliers and pendants, are the jewelry of the room and can make for a dramatic statement, but they often don’t give off enough light. A dining room is a stage, and it can benefit from a theatrical approach to illumination. Supplement a chandelier with sconces or lamps to vary the heights of light sources around the room; add discreet recessed downlights to provide an ambient glow, to focus on the china collection or food display, and to spotlight the table surface. Cove lighting in the ceiling adds an elegant touch.
Rug or No?
The casual dining space of a family with young children is not a good spot for a hard-to-clean rug; an unadorned floor will probably be best. In a less used or more formal dining space, however, a carpet will add a decorative layer, soften sound, and warm up the room. Choose a pattern busy enough to hide stains, and avoid hard-to-clean fibers such as wool. Some decorators avoid carpets no matter what. “I think rugs look awkward below the dining room table,” says Amy Lau. “They also trap crumbs. If the flooring in the room is tile, I’ll sometimes design an inset faux rug using another tile pattern or variety, but usually I just leave the floors bare and put the design emphasis elsewhere.” Put pads on chairs’ feet to protect a wood floor.
Pick the Right Tabletop Material
Natural finishes, such as wood and stone, are most common for tabletops. Wood offers the most traditional mien and greatest stylistic variety, from a rough-hewn weather-beaten farmhouse table to a more formal French-polished gem. But functional needs must guide the selection too. Factor maintenance into the decision, and be realistic about the degree of use and abuse the table will receive. Hot plates can mar certain finishes, silverware can scratch, and wet drinks can leave behind rings. More modern man-made options—glass, laminate, quartz composite, and solid surfaces such as Corian—are nice alternatives, especially for countertop dining. Regardless, no material is impervious, and all need care during and after use.
Choose Integrated Leaves
The most versatile table style is one with built-in leaves that slide out from the ends or rise from the center when needed. (Keep in mind that it is unusual to find a glass table with the ability to expand.) A caveat: drop-leaf or insert materials such as wood may fade, age, or patinate differently from the tabletop proper if the leaves are not exposed to light—if they are stored in a closet, for example, or even within the table itself. Leaves can also warp over time.
A sunlit family room by Suzanne Lovell accommodates both living and dining areas. The latter is furnished in a mix of leather director’s chairs and slipcovered armchairs that tie into the decor of the sitting area. For ease of maintenance, the stone floor below is left bare.
A restful palette of blues unifies varied elements in an open-plan living/dining space by Amanda Poole Parisi, Hong Molitor-Xu, and Jamie Drake of Drake/Anderson.
Paul Siskin chose a walnut dining table for the eating area of his open-plan (and open-to-the-elements) residence. The timber top nicely coordinates with wood slats cladding the nearby fireplace wall. A collection of candlesticks dresses up the tabletop.
Villalobos Desio lent a pass-through dining area presence with prominent artwork and a modern pendant light. Bucking conventional wisdom, a pair of backless stools anchor either end of the table where armchairs typically preside.
A slim, spare console accompanies a dining vignette by Stefan Steil—and serves as a pedestal for a cluster of objets. The chair legs and table base have a simpatico sensibility, creating a dynamic composition of angled lines.
ANATOMY OF A DINING TABLE
The minimum table length to comfortably accommodate six standard-size dining chairs is 72 inches. A rounded top, such as an oval, will seat even more than a rectangular format. Also consider the base design: a central pedestal is more user-friendly than perimeter legs.
TOPS
The layout of the room and how people will congregate affect the choice of shape.
Square or rectangular. Although it’s the most popular shape, a rectilinear top may be less adaptable to accommodate large groups of diners, because the corners limit where chairs can be positioned. Stylistically this category is quite varied, from a modernist Parsons table to a farmhouse-style refectory table with a trestle base.
Round. Great for square rooms and/or fewer diners. An Eero Saarinen Tulip table is a popular choice that works with a variety of room aesthetics. A round table is especially nice for rectangular spaces that need versatility; positioned at one end of a room, it will leave enough floor space on the opposite end for a secretary-style desk or a full-height bookcase. Hexagonal and octagonal tables are similarly versatile, although the sides will dictate the number of chairs that can pull up.
Oval. The most versatile surface, an oval is particularly useful in tight quarters given the curved profile. Many diners can congregate around this elongated top, yet still join in on a single conversation. A racetrack top is a variation that has rounded ends but straight sides.
BASES
The style will affect how chairs can be pulled up under the table.
Pedestal. A pedestal offers the most legroom and is the most flexible design. This style is particularly suited to small rooms or a large number of diners.
Corner legs. The most classic style. The location of table legs will limit both the number of chairs at the table and their placement.
Gate leg. A swiveling leg allows this convertible style to expand as needed to accommodate more diners. It is great for rooms that host sizable but infrequent gatherings.
Trestle. These tables have two or four trestles (or legs) connected by a board at the base. They have a nice, sculptural presence but offer less legroom than others.
A pedestal-base dining table works best in tight quarters, like this dining area by Kati Curtis.
KITCHENS
In a residential setting, the kitchen represents sustenance and nurturing. The place where food is stored and prepared is indeed the heart of the home—a central hub in which myriad activities and interactions take place. Of all the rooms in a home, the kitchen is the perfect design challenge, marrying purpose with appearance and meaning.
The design inevitably starts with pragmatic concerns: a kitchen’s foremost function is to support the specific choreography of cooking and preparing meals. The room’s constituent elements—cabinets, counters, appliances, wine coolers, etc.—are fixed in place, can be expensive, and take up sizable square footage. The logistics and minutiae of renovation often eliminate many options and possibilities—which can actually help narrow the sometimes overwhelming options and decisions a kitchen design presents. The most inviting kitchens not only expedite the labor of prepwork and cooking but are also a destination in themselves, welcoming guests and family to relax and hang out.
In designing a kitchen that’s open to both a living area and the outdoors, Paul Siskin eschewed overhead cabinets. The result is a more furnished cookery that recedes from view, blending in with the scenery and the surrounding decor.
THE BIG QUESTIONS
Who will be using the space? Consider not only the primary chef(s) but also children who may prepare snacks for themselves. Are there any household helpers—a housekeeper or a nanny—who should weigh in on decisions or be asked to provide additional insight into functional needs?
Will two people be cooking together at times?
How does the homeowner live? Does she spend lots of time in the kitchen? In that case, the goal may be to make the room feel convivial, allowing space for others to join. Someone who rarely cooks may only need a small, serviceable galley.
Do religious or cultural practices, such as keeping kosher, have an impact on the quantity, design, or placement of storage or appliances?
Does the kitchen need to be handicapped-adaptable or -accessible? A universal, flexible design can give a kitchen longevity and allow for aging in place.
Which meals (if any) will be taken here?
What other activities will occur in the space? Homework? Household administration? A dedicated work area, planning station, or surface on which to spread out papers or use a laptop may prove essential.
Does the homeowner have pets? If so, the kitchen may need to house a dog bowl and crate, a kitty litter tray, or a fish tank.
What degree of maintenance is the homeowner prepared to handle? The answer will help identify the most appropriate materials and finishes, especially for countertops, flooring, and faucets.
Do windows need to be treated with curtains or shades? It’s important to design cabinetry and moldings to accommodate any tracks or headers.
Does the homeowner entertain? Does she often hire a caterer? Many people invite guests to congregate in the kitchen, and prefer that it be open to adjacent living spaces. Those who entertain in a more formal manner often desire separation, or at least a door to close off the kitchen from the dining room.
Does the kitchen require a separate pantry to store serving pieces and place settings, linens, or bulk items?
Does the client cook in a particular style, requiring specific appliances or extra ventilation?
Does the homeowner adhere to organic or special diet requirements, such as vegetarianism, which may require specialized storage (for instance, a refrigerator with an extra-large produce compartment)?
Is specialty storage needed for juicers, bread machines, blenders, slow cookers, coffeemakers, and other small appliances?
How ardently does the homeowner recycle? Does she compost? Can there be a food disposal in the sink? Planning recycling bins and compost containers in advance can save time and costs later.
A wall of full-height cabinetry offers abundant storage in an island kitchen by Donald Billinkoff. The adjacent wall is free of upper cabinets for a streamlined look.
SIGNATURE ELEMENTS
Technological advances have boosted the efficiency of the kitchen and altered its appearance—yet the basics have remained unchanged for millennia: a source of water for cleaning and cooking, a surface for preparing food, a heat source for cooking, and storage. Additional luxuries include specialty appliances plus space for activities such as lounging, playing, and working.
1REFRIGERATION
A kitchen needs a refrigerator/freezer, in the form of a standing unit or under-counter drawers. The choice will depend on the overall kitchen design as well as the homeowner’s cooking and eating habits. Someone who cooks infrequently and eats out often may not require abundant storage of dry goods and fresh produce, but might benefit from extra space to store leftovers and take-out containers.
2SINK
Many cooks like to have two sinks—one for cleaning pots and pans, a smaller one for prep work—while others want just one large sink. At least one extra-deep basin is required, serviced by a high spout (with flexible spray for filling big pots) and, ideally, a built-in soap dispenser.
3HEAT SOURCES
Options for these include a standard or convection oven, a stovetop, a microwave, and broilers. A warming drawer may also be desirable; many newer ovens have a warming option. Make sure there are surfaces nearby to set down hot pans or heavy dishes.
4VENTILATION
To work most efficiently, the vent hood (or other mechanism) requires adequate power and placement near an exterior wall or window—or at least on a wall or ceiling where hot air can be vented to the exterior. The shorter the distance between the unit and the outdoor vent, the better. If the room does not vent to the outside (as in some apartment buildings), a recirculating model is needed.
5SURFACES
These are necessary to cut and prepare food, and for use as a holding area for items to be served. Vary counter height to accommodate chefs of different statures, to support specialized tasks such as rolling dough, or to create visual interest by breaking up a monotonous run of surface material. (Height changes are also helpful in solving the problem of where to place counter seams.) Pay special attention to the design of the counter edge; its profile (flat, ogee, bullnose) should reinforce the overall aesthetic. Consider a dedicated spot for a cookbook (digital or print) to be placed when prepping food.
6TRASH
Kitchens produce garbage of varying types—from food scraps to packaging—and thus require assorted disposal containers: a trash can, recycling bins, and composting centers.
7 LIGHTING
Illumination should be located over the sink, prep surface, and island or peninsula. A mix of decorative pendants, under-cabinet task lighting, and ambient sconces can augment overhead fixtures. LED technology makes bulb changing practically a thing of the past.
8 DURABLE FLOORING
Wood brings warmth to a kitchen but is not the sturdiest choice underfoot, where it will be subject to moisture and wear. Easier-to-maintain ceramic tile, however, is harder on the joints during long periods of standing. An alternative such as cork is more forgiving on knees and dropped glassware and helps dampen sound; nonslip area rugs and mats over hard floors can serve the same purpose. Mixing materials or designing a border or inset can help visually “break up” the wide expanses of flooring that are common in kitchens.
9 SEATING
People often think of the kitchen as a standing space, but seating is just as important: for eating, meal prep, lounging, reading, and working. Supplement stools for counter-height seating with dining chairs or a banquette when there’s room for a dedicated eating area. Remember that even the cook needs a perch during a long day!
Bar stools service the waterfall-edge counter of a peninsula kitchen by Phillip Thomas.
Decorative painting graces an island in a kitchen by Amanda Poole Parisi, Hong Molitor-Xu, and Jamie Drake of Drake/Anderson.
SPATIAL PLANNING
Kitchens come in many shapes and sizes, but most conform to a handful of standard layouts: single run, galley, U-shaped, L-shaped, island, and peninsula. (Sometimes there’s a separate spillover space such as a walk-in closet, a butler’s pantry, or a larder.) No matter the configuration, for most people a kitchen ideally features the work triangle: the cook should be able to move easily between the refrigerator, oven, and sink in a minimum of steps—no more than four or five. The most important relationship is between the sink and the stovetop or range; locating these on the same stretch of counter is a huge plus. The triangle is a remarkably good guideline but isn’t a rule, and a designer-cook who knows how she works can choose a different layout more suited to her style.
Wood and marble counters top white-painted cabinetry in an island kitchen by Cullman & Kravis.
DESIGN & DECORATING CONSIDERATIONS
A kitchen should harmonize with and extend the interior design concept of the surrounding architecture, especially in an open-plan residence. “Don’t look at the kitchen in a vacuum,” says Robert Schwartz, principal of the kitchen-design company St. Charles of New York. “Its design should reflect elements in neighboring spaces, whether through palette, millwork, or flooring.” Approach the kitchen holistically, as a complete room rather than an assemblage of discrete elements, he advises. Every plane of the room is related. Cabinetry must integrate with the broad strokes of the ceiling, floor, and tile; the counter material should speak to the wall or backsplash. A well-designed kitchen is a calm backdrop for the food and activity, not an overwhelming collage of materials and colors.
Thinking in Elevation
Be attentive to how the kitchen will appear in elevation—that is, how each wall looks, on its own, when viewed from across a room. Uninterrupted runs of countertop and cabinetry, all at the same height, can read as either clean and streamlined or monotonous depending on the intent and execution. Break up a monolithic expanse by alternating upper cabinets with open shelving and solid panels with glass doors. Regardless of material, align the upper and lower cabinets vertically, creating a sort of column. For instance, use a 30-inch upper cabinet over a 30-inch base cabinet.
Hide Appliances in Plain Sight
Kitchens are appliance-laden spaces. Double-wide refrigerators, six-burner stovetops, and steam ovens are seductive, but all take up valuable real estate (and can make a space look like a showroom). Determine the wish list and then assess what can physically—and reasonably—fit in the room and prioritize accordingly. If there are many large appliances, consider integrating them into the overall decor with front panels that match the adjacent cabinets. Design cabinetry with pullout shelves, lazy Susans, and drawers specifically made to hold mixers, blenders, and juicers. Create an appliance garage on the countertop: designate one area for the toaster, coffeemaker, and other kitchen gadgets, and hide it with a tambour panel that rolls down from an upper cabinet.
Countertop Choice
Keep in mind how counters will be used. Many people love the look of natural materials, but stones such as marble are porous and thus react to oil, wine, and acids like lemon—even granite is susceptible. A nice alternative is a quartz-composite facsimile, which is impervious and easy to clean. Another authentic touch is solid wood, such as butcher block—and it’s not always pricey (but will require some upkeep).
Don’t Forget About Dishcloths
Think about where dishcloths, pot holders, and other functional items will be stored. Cabinetry featuring touch latches or recessed pulls creates a sleek-looking kitchen, but there will be no knobs or handles for hanging dish towels. Select hardware with this in mind, or place hooks and rods near the stove and sink.
Soften Hard Surfaces with Textiles
From window treatments to bar stool upholstery, place mats to pot holders, textiles can soften the hardness of surrounding finishes and add decorative panache. Because kitchen fittings and fixtures are a major investment, it is wise to embrace a more neutral aesthetic for these big elements and instead rely on textiles to inject color and pattern. Bear in mind that fabrics can pick up cooking smells, so choose something washable—cotton, for instance.
Enliven with Accessories
Accessories bring color, style, and functionality to a kitchen. Use sculptural bowls, trays, and containers for storage and service and to break up long swaths of countertop. Change them seasonally or according to mood. Even framed artwork has a place in the kitchen if the medium is chosen wisely (and the piece is mounted at a suitable distance from the cooktop).
“If the homeowner wishes to integrate art and accessories into a kitchen scheme, it’s best to plan for them from the get-go,” says kitchen stylist Lindsey Katalan of Curated. “Then they can reserve a budget for these final touches, and design cabinets, shelving, lighting, and counters to flaunt them.”
USE ITEMS TYPICALLY RELEGATED TO FORMAL DINING ROOMS FOR THE KITCHEN—AND ENJOY THEM EVERY DAY.
Integrating Display Areas
“Showcase collections of Limoges, china, or crystal in a display vitrine or glass-fronted upper cabinet with LED accent lighting and clear-glass shelves,” Katalan advises. In high-ceilinged spaces, a second tier of cabinets with glass fronts, illuminated from within, is great for displaying nonfunctional (or infrequently used) items and to draw the eye up, thus enhancing the room’s loftlike proportions.
The Backsplash
A backsplash protects the walls from splattering oil and food and is thus integral to a kitchen. Materials range from stone and ceramic tile to glass tiles or even wallpaper behind a glass panel (the choice should be easy to wipe clean). Use the backsplash as a decorative accent: a full-height backsplash in the same materials as the counter is a clean look. Mount GFI receptacles and electrical switches directly in the backsplash at a consistent height all around, and choose coverplates in a compatible color.
Custom cabinets faced in zebrano veneer—oriented horizontally to make the room seem more spacious—distinguish a kitchen by Joan Dineen. For a streamlined look, the architect used the same Carrara marble for the countertops and backsplash.
Choosing a Countertop
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Wood accents and woven baskets form a rustic, textured foil for gray soapstone countertops and sleek stainless steel backsplash and appliances in a kitchen by Suzanne Lovell.
Donald Billinkoff designed shelving that wraps around one corner of a kitchen to display a collection of vintage teacups. The colorful china pops against an all-white backdrop that includes a solid-surface countertop.
Suzanne Lovell chose a teak countertop for a wet bar. The rich wood—which would be less practical in a high-traffic, heavy-use area—contrasts nicely with the white cabinetry and concrete surround.
PLANNING & DESIGNING CABINETRY
Cabinetry is perhaps the most defining visual feature of a kitchen—the “furniture” of the room. It spans the stylistic gamut, ranging from streamlined to a more “furnished” aesthetic mimicking freestanding elements such as a sideboard or a hutch. As the most prominent gesture in a kitchen, cabinetry should reiterate the surrounding architecture and overall design concept through detail, ornamentation, and materials. For instance, repeat a molding detail from the living room in the crown molding or panel design. And while an assertively contemporary kitchen with all stainless steel appliances serves as an arresting counterpoint in a more traditional house, it should nonetheless correlate to its surroundings—for example, choose wood-veneer cabinet faces in a similar tone to the millwork in an adjacent room.
In a traditionally appointed kitchen by Hamlin Goldreyer, wood countertops are a warm complement to white-painted cabinets. The long run of cabinetry is broken up with carefully articulated details: changes in counter depth are punctuated by fluted columns. In one corner, a swath of cabinetry was designed to mimic a hutch, incorporating storage to display dishware.
Specifying Quality Cabinets
When choosing cabinets, it’s crucial to look at the thickness of the door and case materials, the joinery, and how the cabinets are constructed. Best are those made of ¾-inch-thick wood assembled with dovetail joints. Like the cabinet boxes and shelves, the drawers should be made of solid wood, including the bottoms. (Inexpensive poplar can be used for the unseen areas, with a more expensive veneered variety in front.) Cabinetmakers construct doors and drawer fronts with solid-wood frames and edges, using veneers over strong plywood for the main panel: big, flat panels can warp if made of solid wood.
Cabinet Doors: Glass or Opaque?
Opaque cabinet doors hide messy interiors and imbue a space with visual quiet, but glass-fronted cabinets are great for showing off pretty dishware or collections and revealing where items are stored—helpful for guests and homeowners alike. If made of wood, the cabinet doors should have solid frames and edges for sturdiness.
What’s Inside Matters
Cabinet interiors—from the shelves to the drawers—are just as important as the exteriors; give thought to their design from the start. Choose or design trays, inserts, and compartments to accommodate your possessions: silverware, linens, china, even a treasured oversize platter. Assess and itemize belongings to determine how much and what type of storage to allot to every genre. Account for pot lids, baking trays, roasting pans, and place mats too. Also handy is a “junk” drawer for odds and ends, or a locked cabinet to safeguard valuables, such as fine silverware or prized wine.
Filling Odd Spaces Between Cabinet and Wall
When a kitchen wall isn’t exactly the same length as the cabinets, the cabinetmaker or installer will close the narrow gap at the end of the run with a filler strip that matches the face material of the cabinet. Filler strips are not used in the finest custom kitchens; instead, the end cabinet has an extended stile or a vertical flange, a special customized trim piece that creates a seamless look.
Designing Around Existing Cabinetry
If the scope of the kitchen redesign does not include new cabinetry, transform existing units by refinishing, repainting, or lacquering; or just keep the frame structure and replace only the doors. Achieve an entirely different look with new hardware alone.
Kristin Fine upgraded a kitchen by treating existing wood cabinetry to layers of black lacquer; Carrara marble countertops lighten the look. The result is both more dramatic and sophisticated than exposed wood as well as more visually quiet, receding from view when seen from the contiguous family room.
(+ FOLLOWING): An accessible kitchen at the Universal Design Living Laboratory features side-by-side refrigerators, varied counter heights, and open areas for wheelchair access.
BEDROOMS & SLEEPING AREAS
For a space whose primary purpose is repose, bedrooms are rather active: in the evening, as a place to prepare for slumber and intimacy, and in the morning, to get ready for the day. Many sleeping areas are also conceived to accommodate reading, television watching, working, exercising, and grooming. As such, the design should be comfortable and relaxing yet efficient. The places where people settle down to sleep are generally regarded as the most private areas of a home. So no matter how busy or multitasking a bedroom is, it should still be a sanctuary for refuge, respite, and centering oneself—for both adults and children.
“I LIKE TO PLACE BEDS SO YOU LOOK AT THE HEADBOARD WHEN YOU WALK INTO THE ROOM—THAT IS, SO YOU WALK TOWARD THE FOOT OF THE BED.”
—Neal Beckstedt, designer
Muted shades of silvery gray distinguish a bedroom by Phillip Thomas. At the foot of the bed, a pair of benches in place of a single large one is a nice option.
THE BIG QUESTIONS
Who will be using the space, and how old are they?
How many people will be sleeping there? If more than one, will they be sharing a bed, or will each person require his or her own?
Will the bedroom be used mostly at night, or during the day too?
What other activities will the room be used for: reading (newspapers, printed or digital books), working (laptop, paper/pencil), playing (board games, free play, interactive gaming and fitness technology, computer games), television watching (flatscreen, laptop, tablet), exercising, lounging?
Does the bedroom also serve as the main dressing area? If not, is the dressing area adjacent to the bedroom?
Is the preferred ambience restful, energetic, or somewhere in between?
Do any inhabitants have sensitivities to light or noise? Is the residence (or room) near a noisy area? Does it receive strong morning sun?
Golden tones prevail in a bedroom by Stefan Steil, carrying through from the mod wallpaper to the headboard fabric and the finish of the bedside table.
SIGNATURE ELEMENTS
It goes without saying that a sleeping place—whether a dedicated room or located within another space—must offer, at minimum, shelter and security (and, of course, a mattress to sleep on). But surfaces and storage areas are no less important, along with a comfortable place in which to dress or disrobe.
1 BED
Naturally, the bed is typically the focal point of a sleeping area and its most important feature. Frame styles range from a streamlined platform to a cocooning fabric-draped four-poster that creates a room within a room.
2 MATTRESS
Vital to consider is the mattress—with respect not only to firmness and comfort but also to its dimensions. Account for the height of the mattress when choosing or designing the bed frame, sheet sets, or nightstands. A custom mattress can be made to suit the desired resilience, softness, and material (including sustainable or organic fabrics, fillers, coils, twines, and cured-wood box-spring frames).
3 NIGHTSTAND
Ensure that the surface is even with—or within a few inches of—the top of the mattress. Ideally it should incorporate a drawer or a cabinet too, or perhaps a pullout shelf with a moisture-proof surface to hold a water glass or a coffee cup.
4 DIMMABLE LIGHTS
Bedrooms require general ambient glow, lighting for the individual sleeping space, and task lighting for reading and dressing. Dressing rooms or areas need illumination strong enough for the user to distinguish black suits from navy and charcoal ones. Careful planning of these features is critical to the flexibility of a room over the course of a day. Switches for all lighting should be within reach of the bed. In some cases, a night-light is helpful for guiding users to the hallway or bathroom.
5 DRESSING AREA
This place should include storage for clothing—a closet, a built-in, a freestanding wardrobe, a bureau, or a combination thereof that encompasses space for folded and hanging items, from lingerie to neckties, plus storage cubbies for shoes and purses. Regardless of square footage, a seating perch is a must.
6 SHADES, SHUTTERS, AND/OR CURTAINS
Layer bedroom windows with two or three types of treatments: A roller shade against the window to block the light; a sheer curtain (called a casement) to uphold privacy during the day; curtain panels to maximize opacity, muffle sound, and lend a decorative touch; and to completely block light, use a special blackout lining for the shade and curtains. Mount the curtains so they extend past the window frame and curve back toward the wall in order to thwart all light penetration.
Custom sheets and pillows personalize a bedroom by Suzanne Lovell. The white-on-white palette is crisp yet restful, while layered textures (a cowhide rug and a woven basket) add élan. Dark wood floors ground the space and temper the bright sunlight, which is screened using floor-to-ceiling curtain panels.
To encourage bedside reading, David Scott gave his clients two lighting options: snakelike wall-mounted spotlights that focus a pinpoint of light, plus swing-arm sconces above the nightstand. He sized the custom bed’s headboard to fit within the exact dimensions of the wall paneling.
In a tranquil bedroom by Laura Bohn, a succinct color scheme and absence of pattern maintain serenity. Soft textures such as a channel-tufted upholstered headboard and wall-to-wall carpeting help dampen noise. Mirrored wall panels and sheer window treatments coax in sunshine during the day.
Campion Platt chose a canopy-style bed frame to create an enveloping room within a room in a loftlike space. Fine art and an unusual antique wardrobe offer bold focal points. The nightstand design cleverly incorporates a light fixture to free surface area below.
SPATIAL PLANNING
In laying out a bedroom or a sleeping area, start with the bed itself—not only the most important element in the room but also the largest. The bed’s placement will dictate the location of all other elements; indeed, in many rooms there is only one logical place to put the bed to ensure circulation around it. Position the bed so that both sleepers can hop out and move easily into the room without having to circumnavigate obstacles. Also requiring dedicated space in a bedroom are major pieces such as a large double or single dresser—often with a mirror or a television above—and a small seating area with a chaise, a settee, or a bergère and an ottoman. These groupings create interesting destinations and visually balance the weight of the bed.
When flexible arrangements for the sleeping area are either necessary or desired, such as in a loft or a one-room apartment, consider taking cues from other cultures and historical periods and adopt a more adaptable approach. In traditional Asian residences, for instance, tatami mats are stowed during the day, which allows a space to be used for other activities.
NIGHTSTANDS, FOUR WAYS
1. Open shelving at the base of a nightstand provides easy access to books for bedtime—and a surface for display.
2. Guillaume Gentet chose a petite side table, supplemented by a wall-mounted sconce to save surface space; the hand-painted floral design on the walls reiterates the motifs of the surrounding fabrics.
3. A nightstand with drawers maximizes storage and keeps clutter at bay.
4. A minuscule table holds just the basics.
DESIGN & DECORATING CONSIDERATIONS
A master bedroom can be designed as either an understated minimalist retreat, with a monochromatic color palette and varied textures, or a glamorous setting that echoes the exciting and dramatic colors of the living spaces.
“I PREFER TO USE WALL SCONCES OR DROP PENDANTS ABOVE NIGHTSTANDS, VERSUS TABLE LAMPS, SO THERE’S MORE SURFACE AREA FOR BOOKS AND OTHER POSSESSIONS.”
—Amy Lau, designer
An upholstered wall backdrops a channel-tufted headboard in a bedroom by Suzanne Lovell.
Soothing peach tones and layered window treatments distinguish a bedroom by Cullman & Kravis.
The Materials Palette
The choice of materials for a sleeping area is very important. The selection directly affects the desired atmosphere: sanctum or flexible bedroom/leisure area? Determine how and when a bedroom will be used for purposes other than sleeping: in the daytime for a nap or fitness break, or in the evening for quiet reading time? Rooms that look great at night might look drab in the morning. For a bedroom meant to be a place of retreat or relaxation, include quiet or neutral colors, soft fabrics, a cut-pile rug in wool or silk, and window sheers or shades as part of the materials palette. To create a setting for romance and intimacy, use a rich color scheme with deep hues, textured walls, a dark burnished floor, and warm highlights. A room that needs to be cheerful and welcoming all day long requires contrast, lively patterns, and visual order. The more activities a space is used for, the more layered its decor should be.
Layering Textures
By their very nature, bedrooms are usually fabric-laden spaces. This provides a nice opportunity to create a subtle but complex array of patterns or textures—a comfy nest. “Bedrooms are all about layering subtle textures: a waffle bedcovering, a knotted blanket, a zebra-skin rug,” says Neal Beckstedt. “It gives a space a sense of depth yet very little movement, which establishes a nice balance of interest and restfulness.”
Nightstands—To Match or Not?
In master bedrooms, it is customary to include a pair of coordinating night tables, one on either side of the bed, which establishes a sense of symmetry that’s restful and pleasing to the eye. But why not try a mismatched pair instead, to lend visual interest? “Bedrooms can get a bit boring when they are too symmetrical, with the same nightstand and the same light on either side of the bed,” says Beckstedt. “When you have a chance to mix it up, take it. Mismatched nightstands give a little personality to each side of the bed, and work especially well for couples, since users often have different needs. The wife may desire tons of storage while the husband just needs a place to rest his watch.”
Comfort Factors
Regulating environmental factors—light (both natural and artificial), noise, temperature, interruption of privacy—is a critical design prerequisite in bedrooms and sleeping areas. Many people are sensitive to light, drafts, and noise. Sleep is the utmost in surrender, and such control therefore leads to a greater feeling of security. Design drapery in layers to add levels of control. If city or country sounds disturb, then invest in sound-blocking windows, carpet, and an upholstered headboard or wall. Avoid placing a bed under windows, where there is often a radiator or a heat pump, to reduce exposure to temperature changes or air movement.
Too Small to Be a Bedroom?
Urban apartments will often have a small or windowless room that’s billed as a study or home office. Resist the temptation to use this as a bedroom: it’s a safety hazard, not to mention illegal. Although building codes vary according to municipality, a bedroom needs to be a discrete room with a window that is a minimum of 24 inches high or 20 inches wide (with a clear opening of at least 5.7 square feet) for fresh air but primarily for escape/access in case of fire. Of course, sleeping areas such as lofts or pull-down Murphy beds are perfectly legal as long as there are no doors or obstacles isolating them from the path of egress.
GUEST ROOMS
Because guest accommodations are used for only a limited time, they need less storage than standard bedrooms, but of a more specific type. Guest rooms can also benefit from hotel-style amenities. Include the following signature elements to ensure a comfortable stay:
Bed. A full or queen bed is most flexible, unless the guest room is small and can only accommodate a twin. A daybed with trundle below is a space-saving alternative that allows the room to double as a den.
Nightstand. A single surface is usually sufficient (as opposed to a pair of night tables flanking the bed).
Clothing storage. A closet, hooks, a clothes rack, or armoire invite hanging a few days’ worth of garments.
Surface. Provide a luggage rack, a chest, or a foot-of-the-bed bench for storing suitcases and bags.
Seating. A perch for lounging is also helpful, as is a table or another surface on which to place books or write notes.
Proper lighting. Locate at the bedside or a desk; there should also be ambient lighting from overhead fixtures or sconces.
An upholstered wall, a multifunctional bench, a small chest of drawers, and good bedside lighting are welcoming touches in a bedroom by Campion Platt.
ANATOMY OF A CANOPY BED
A canopy bed creates the feeling of a secret world, enclosed and safe, like a floating island or an oasis—a room within a room. The design provides an opportunity to use fabric to great effect and create an arresting focal point in a sleeping area. The structure of the bed is like a building, with a floor (the mattress), columns (corner posts), and a ceiling (the canopy itself). It can stand alone as a complete environment in an otherwise simple space. Whether luxuriously traditional or monastically minimalistic, a canopy bed is special, an environment for both intimacy and coziness.
1 CANOPY
The canopy rests on a frame, which can attach to the corner posts or be suspended from the ceiling.
Exterior valance. Adorn with shirring, tailored corner details, and cording or trim. Choose lining in either matching or contrasting fabric.
Canopy interior. Detail with contrasting fabric, lighting, and cording or trim.
2 HEADBOARD
Upholster or leave undressed. Extend a drapery panel behind the headboard for an even more cocooning effect.
3 SIDE PANELS/DRAPERY
Panels must be properly designed to enable easy access from the bed to adjacent night tables, lighting elements, and switches/controls—all of which should likewise be carefully located. Elements to design include:
Lining
Cording or trim
Tiebacks
4 MATTRESS AND FRAME
A mattress typically rests on a box spring, and both are set onto a metal frame (often called a Harvard frame). Attached to the metal frame is a headboard, a footboard, or bedposts (or any combination). Some beds and frames are made entirely of wood.
5 BED SKIRT
Bed skirts are surprisingly complex. In addition to specifying the fabric and trims being used and the “drop” (or measurement from top to floor), choose a format that works with the bed frame and accommodates any slats. The most common styles are individual panels, which attach via pins directly to the box spring, and a one-piece design sewn onto a flat sheet that rests between the box spring and mattress. In the case of a four-poster bed, the latter will require split corners to accommodate the bedposts. If the mattress is supported by slats, the skirt will need to drape outside the bed frame rather than to tuck between the sides of the box spring and the frame.
A custom canopy bed by David Phoenix offers enveloping charm.
KIDS’ ROOMS & PLAY SPACES
Whether a bedroom or a family room, spaces for kids are lively places in which children sleep, work, dress, dream, learn, grow, and so much more. A complexity of uses means that the best-designed rooms have great flexibility and adaptability yet an underlying structure—all of which speak to a child’s inner sense of order and freedom.
Children’s rooms are places of extremes. They need open areas for play and nooks for hiding; tactile materials that tickle the senses and smooth surfaces that are easy to clean. They need abundant closed storage for containing clutter and open shelves to encourage independence, with ample display areas for flaunting drawings and sports trophies. And children’s rooms must be age-appropriate yet forward thinking, capable of evolving with their youthful inhabitants (to last them into early adulthood). A well-designed environment anticipates how not just the child but also the family itself will change: kids’ rooms are often designed when a brood is just starting to grow.
Crimson fabrics covering tables, a vibrant duvet, and a zebra-print rug are elements Suzanne Lovell used to create a girlish haven. Yet the room’s bones are fairly neutral: pale pinky-beige wallpaper and dark-wood furnishings. Simply switching fabrics and accents would create a much more subdued look.
THE BIG QUESTIONS
What age child is this room being designed for? If it’s a long-track project—for instance, the early stages of constructing a new home—how old will he be when the family moves in?
How long will the child use the room? If she will be going to college in a few years, it’s worth considering whether the room might eventually have a second life as a guest room or a home office.
Is this area part of another room, such as a play area in a kitchen or a family room, or is it a dedicated kid-centric zone?
Is this a shared or solo space? If it’s a bedroom, how many kids will sleep there?
Will the room need to accommodate future children as well?
Will there be overnight guests?
What specific activities will occur here? Is this the main sleeping area or primarily devoted to play? Will the child study here too?
Is the child quiet or boisterous? Mellow or high-energy? Social or prone to solo play? Does he love to leave his block towers standing for weeks on end? Does he prefer sitting or standing when painting?
Does the child have sensory or developmental challenges?
What is the level of disorder that the parents can tolerate?
Is there a nanny or an au pair who will share the room or suite?
SPACES FOR KIDS OF ALL AGES SHOULD SPARK THE IMAGINATION, SET THE STAGE FOR CREATIVITY AND EXPLORATION, AND SUPPORT UNINHIBITED, JOYOUS PLAY.
A bed frame and club chair upholstered in the same gray plaid lend cohesion and sophistication to a boy’s room by Suzanne Lovell.
SIGNATURE ELEMENTS
Important features of children’s spaces include play areas, opportunities for personalization, a balance of privacy and openness, user-friendly storage, sensorial stimulation, and a sense of security. Access to light and views of the outdoors is another must.
1 OPEN PLAY AREA
Children need room to sprawl, to construct a fort, to build with blocks, or to make a puzzle that can stay in place for a while. Even in a shared or small bedroom, some floor space should be kept clear for free play. Given the amount of time kids spend playing on the ground, flooring and floor coverings that are comfortable as well as durable and cleanable are vital, especially if finger painting and snack time are to take place. Wood flooring, vinyl, and carpet tile are ideal, as are resilient surfaces like cork, linoleum, rubber tiles, and machine-washable rugs.
2 WORK AREA
Children of every age sometimes need to sit at a table or a desk to do homework, draw, play with clay, and so on. For built-in desks, a standard 29- or 30-inch height is best so the child will grow into it; supplement it with a lower freestanding surface for pint-size statures. The desk can be concealed within a bed unit. Two chairs are ideal, both to support a child’s need to socialize and to help him learn to collaborate with peers.
3 SEATING
Beanbags, floor pillows, lightweight stools, and exercise balls provide comfy places for quiet reading. Parents need a place for when they visit or supervise: a chaise, a sofa, a club chair, a floor pillow, or another cushiony lounging spot.
4 STORAGE
Children of every age have the same possessions, in different forms and sizes: clothing, toys, books, and mementos. All require organization and appropriate storage. The best kind allows a child to be independent in dressing and play, and is easy for her to access, manage, and maintain: toy boxes, cupboards, shelves, and drawers. It should also meet the parents’ needs for neatness.
5THE BED
If the space is a bedroom, it will obviously need a bed: a bassinet, a crib, a toddler bed, or a twin (or larger). Even if the space is just a playroom, it might host overnight guests.
If more than one child will be sleeping in the room, bunks are a space saver (and, depending on their design, a de facto playhouse).
A trundle bed serves as an unobtrusive alternative for a guest; afterward, it can slide under the main sleeping surface or a daybed.
A mattress on the floor provides a safe transition from crib to “big-girl bed” and is a soft surface for playing.
6 LIGHTING
Reading in bed requires a small sconce or bedside table lamp. But play areas need ample illumination too—ideally a combination of natural, overhead, and ambient light. And task lighting is essential for homework and crafting at a workspace. Children thrive in daylit environments, so maximizing natural illumination is a must. That being said, modulation of daylight is also essential in a child’s sleeping space. Consider a blackout shade or curtain panels with a light-blocking backing or lining. (Curtains also provide a nice canvas for playful fabrics and patterns.)
7 OPPORTUNITIES FOR PERSONALIZATION
Kids develop a sense of ownership when given the chance to individualize their space. Having a bulletin board, open wall space, or even a magnetic whiteboard to display drawings and special items creates an awareness of past accomplishments and milestones while pointing to the future. Even in a shared space, having one bookcase or display area assigned to each child helps reinforce self-esteem and identity.
Phillip Thomas built bookcases and a desk into the headroom wall of a kid’s bedroom. A red, white, and blue palette creates an energizing decor.
A loft bed/hideaway and drum area are playful touches in a kid’s bedroom by Donald Billinkoff.
Electric purple accents inject a lighthearted note into the bedroom of a young girl. Carol Egan specified a space-conscious trundle bed that suits overnight guests and lounging in equal measure. Colorful louvered shades are both unexpected and superfunctional during lights-out time.
A wall covered in custom graphics personalizes a preteen girl’s room by Weitzman Halpern. A deep daybed is an asset, letting the bedroom double as a sort of living space/studio. Textured and furry throw pillows bring just the right dose of glam.
DESIGN & DECORATING CONSIDERATIONS
Spaces for kids should be designed to encourage self-expression—and self-control.
Color Palettes That Delight—and Endure
Big items to be kept for the long haul (bed frames, bureaus) should be neutral and somewhat sophisticated, or at least timeless; save the intense color for wall paint, accent pieces, and textiles that can be easily altered. “A muted background has staying power,” says Alexis Givens. “To switch up color, change the fabric and accessories.” Kids are particular about their palette, so let them weigh in; for instance, have them choose between two or three vetted colors or fabrics. A little girl’s request for “a pink room” need not translate to cloying bubble-gum hues. For the walls, choose an elegant pale gray that’s chic, not childish, with white trim, and pretty pink bedding as the accent.
Pair Smooth with Tactile
Tactility holds strong appeal for kids. Their senses are developing, and they love varied textures: soft and cocooning materials such as cotton knit and faux fur, as well as rough and scruffy surfaces. Kids are also busybodies who really use their spaces: to drive trains, host tea parties, and fight video-game battles with friends. Choose supersmooth surfaces able to withstand the boisterous rigors of play, sticky hands, and diapered bottoms for finishes; easy-to-clean furnishings; and wipeable wallpaper or paint in a glossy finish. Pair these slick finishes with touchable but still practical materials such as cork flooring, indoor/outdoor rugs, and sturdy upholstery fabrics and slipcovers in heavyweight cotton or Ultrasuede—all with texture and pattern to hide spills and dirt.
Rooms on the Move
Flexibility is a key consideration in young kids’ rooms. Set up a multipurpose workstation with a small table and accompanying scaled-down chairs that are lightweight enough to move around. Mobile elements such as small poufs and cushions also allow kids to reconfigure their rooms at whim to suit different activities and enable independent creative play.
Gender-Specific or Gender-Neutral?
Should the decor account for the occupant’s gender? Some designers say yes, with respect not only to the palette of colors and materials but also to behavior and even sleeping habits. “As an example, I find that boys prefer sleeping in different beds during a sleepover, whereas girls are more likely to share a bed,” says designer Sara Story. “For that reason, I often use two twins in a boy’s room and a full or queen for a girl’s room.” Others think that a child’s room should be gender-neutral, neither pink nor blue, and it should change to reflect the child’s developing personality—or that the child should design his own space as his interests and identity evolve.
Embrace Whimsy in the Right Places
A kid’s bedroom is a perfect spot for a vivid paint color or an exuberantly patterned fabric that might be too bold elsewhere, or a novelty such as a hanging chair or one shaped like a baseball glove.
Areas beyond the grasp of curious hands are perfect for these more precious touches: wallpaper on the ceiling, cool sconces, artwork, or a nice fabric laminated onto a roller shade. A chandelier or a ceiling pendant also presents an opportunity to splurge on something delicate and fanciful or bold and dramatic. Attention to scale can create whimsy too, says Story: “Kids’ rooms are perfect places to play with scale: mixing large and small, high and low creates a design statement and is also practical from an end-user point of view.”
Encourage Ownership
Children are typically highly opinionated about their environments—and remarkably unfiltered about expressing their likes and dislikes. Encouraging them to voice their passions can make them feel at home in their new space and instill a sense of pride. “Kids need to feel like they contributed to the design and that their viewpoint was considered,” says Givens. There are plenty of ways to incorporate what they love in a manner that’s not overly thematic, including choosing the wall color, special printed sheets, framed artwork, or an installation of favorite superheroes in recessed shelving.
Stick to Low-Maintenance Finishes
A clear finish applied to an unstained wood such as natural oak is more durable than a painted surface. Opt for sturdy and wipeable plastic laminate, back-painted glass, or a solid surface such as Corian or quartz for worktables and nightstands.
Kids’ Room Storage
Kids’ spaces must accommodate abundant possessions and are inherently prone to disorder. Enlist a combination of open and closed, freestanding and built-in storage.
Built-ins. Where space is at a premium, custom built-ins are an ideal solution, whether a full span of low storage topped with seating cushions, or cabinetry that extends the full height of the room. Full-size drawers integrated below the bed or a window seat are smart.
Open shelving. Educational theories such as the Montessori Method advocate open shelving to display children’s heavy-rotation toys or current projects, which are placed on a tray or in a decorative container. By giving young children a clear indication of where items should be returned, this method allows them to be independent and orderly.
Display area. Children (and their caregivers) love to showcase their creations, collections, and accolades—from drawings to trophies to posters. Corkboards, magnetic wallpaper, and picture ledges both serve the purpose and allow for flexibility. Wall-mounted display vitrines and clear acrylic shadow boxes are another great way to frame objects and memorabilia more permanently.
Clothing. A measure of independence is dressing oneself. Locate a younger child’s clothing within easy reach: bottom drawers or shelves, low hooks or closet rods. Put a laundry hamper or basket near where the child undresses, to beckon dirty clothes before they land on the floor.
Kati Curtis specified environmentally friendly furniture and finishes in a nursery. Bold patterns are youth-appropriate but rendered in an all-ages palette.
BATHROOMS
No matter how sybaritic or spa-like its design, a bathroom is at heart a function-driven space—one where cleanliness, privacy, ergonomics, and safety are top priorities. The room’s main components are permanent fixtures, their placement dictated by the location of plumbing lines. (Indeed, much of the design thinking that goes into a bathroom is hidden behind walls.) Further complicating matters, baths are generally the smallest rooms in a house. Carving out space to accommodate the full complement of desired elements and activities often presents a challenge. In a tiny powder room, it can be quite a task to fit in a toilet, sink, and storage—not to mention decorative accents.
The first task, then, involves a bit of puzzling to create a workable layout that incorporates the wish list of features. Next is to counter the technical, inherently functional nature of the bathroom with tactile details that speak to the user’s need for cosseting and centering. The problem solving required to reconcile these two imperatives can generate highly inspired solutions; the many challenges bathrooms pose—from spatial constraints to material limitations—often spur out-of-the-box creativity. Whether a private sanctum or a more public powder room, bathrooms are extremely personal spaces ripe for bold gestures, clever ideas, and a nuanced approach to decor.
A curvaceous freestanding tub anchors the raised wet zone of a bathroom by Harry Heissmann, softening the harder edges of walls clad in gradient-patterned mosaic tiles.
THE BIG QUESTIONS
Who is the user? Adults have very different needs from preteens. Elderly or handicapped users may require accessible elements, such as a threshold-free shower and grab bars. Young children will appreciate features that support their small statures, such as a sink vanity with an integrated step stool.
Is this a solo or shared space? A married couple may want two sinks, while siblings can benefit from a subdivided space that gives simultaneous users a bit of privacy and as much elbow room as possible.
Does the sink area need to serve as a vanity?
Will the sink or vanity area need to support a blow-dryer, an electric shaver, or other items that require an electrical outlet?
Does the user take baths, showers, or both? Is there enough square footage for both a walk-in shower and a separate bathtub? Will the shower need a seat?
How many does the shower or tub need to fit?
Does the homeowner prefer a built-in or free-standing tub, a standard design, or a novelty such as a Jacuzzi or a Japanese soaking tub? (Note that it can be difficult to clean the base area or floor below a stand-alone footed tub.)
Should the toilet be placed out in the open, or tucked away in an alcove or a water closet?
Does the wish list include a specialty toilet or a bidet?
What sort of showerhead is desired: handheld, rainshower, body sprays, or a combination? Is a water-saving model (required in certain localities) desired?
Can any feature or function (sink vanity, linen closet, soaking tub) be integrated into an adjacent bedroom?
Will the homeowner use the bathroom for dressing? Is the dressing area or main closet adjacent to it?
How many and what type of items will need to be stored, and where (e.g., in drawers and medicine cabinets)?
Does the homeowner desire a clothes hamper or sorter here?
Do windows need to be dressed for privacy?
What other activities will take place: exercise, reading, listening to music, watching the morning news? Might a chaise or a chair be a nice touch?
To visually enlarge—and maximize daylight in—a modestly proportioned master bath, Donald Billinkoff installed floor-to-ceiling windows. Opaque roller shades pull down when privacy is needed. His-and-hers sinks allow dual occupants to have some measure of personal space and elbow room.
SIGNATURE ELEMENTS
At its most elemental, a bathroom can be reduced to three features: a place to wash, a place to bathe, and a toilet. Any additional amenity—heated towel bar, whirlpool, steam machine—pushes the design forward on the spectrum from minimal to extravagant.
1 WASHING AREA
This should include a faucet/water supply and a sink basin, plus a dish or dispenser for soap and a bar or rack for a washcloth and a towel.
2 GROOMING AREA
This area will require a mirror, space for supplies, and proper lighting. Most often, the grooming area is integrated into the vanity in the form of a mirrored medicine cabinet (a tri-fold style allows the best visual access). But where space permits, supplement it with a separate counter or a vanity that’s just for primping. A lighted, extendable magnifying mirror can be useful in either location.
3 BATHING AREA
Opt for a shower stall, a bathtub, or both. But within those two categories are myriad options—and points of decision: shower door material, tub-surround size, type of storage for shampoo bottles. Many modern spaces include both a shower and a tub in a spa-like “wet zone” separated from the bathroom proper by a glass wall. Arrange for extra wood blocking or support to be installed behind the finished wall during construction to securely support grab bars. Other nice features include a ledge for sitting and a 10-inch-high footrest for shaving one’s legs.
4 FITTINGS
Specialty faucets, spouts, showerheads, and controls are hardworking tools. Coordinate metal finishes and styles with cabinet and architectural hardware and lighting.
5 TOWEL STORAGE
An array of towels adds easily changeable color and style to a neutral space. Store or hang towels adjacent to the shower on a peg, a hook, or a towel bar. (For children, a low set of hooks fosters independence.) These same hardware options can be placed proximate to the sink—on a nearby wall or a bar integrated into the vanity—so that hand towels are easily reached and neatened. Take a lesson from hotel bathrooms and place beautifully folded or rolled towels on a wall-mounted rack near the tub/shower.
6 TOILET
Every bathroom needs a toilet, of course. Options range from standard to water-saving, from bidets to self-cleansing models with heated seats. Although most toilets anchor into both the wall and the floor, wall-mounted varieties bestow a more streamlined look and allow for easier cleaning and wheelchair access (if mounted at 18-inch seat height). When renovating, be sure to plan the location of the cleaning brush and the toilet paper holders—preferably in recessed or semirecessed niches, which need to be framed before the studs are set.
7 STORAGE
Allocate adequate cabinets, shelving, and drawers for the basics:
Hair implements: brushes and combs, blow dryers, hot rollers, straighteners, curling irons, and the like
Toothbrushes (electric or manual)
Toothpaste and dental floss
Razor or electric shaver
Medicines and cosmetics
Contact-lens solution bottles and cases
8 ELECTRICAL OUTLETS AND SWITCHES
These should be situated in a safe and convenient spot—in a medicine cabinet or on the wall above the vanity—where no one who has wet hands or is standing in a puddle can touch them and be injured. To prevent shorts and shocks, all outlets, ground-fault interrupter (GFI) switches, and controls must meet code requirements for wet locations. Steam units must be set on timers, with the controls located away from water.
9 ILLUMINATION
Bathrooms need ambient and task-specific lighting, along with some decorative sparkle. The tasks of a bathroom are usually sited at the sink or vanity or in the bathing area. The general law of bathroom fixtures is that if it looks good, the light is too weak; if the light is strong, then the fixture is ordinary or even offensive. (Witness the infamous Hollywood strip of round bulbs typically found alongside a mirror: it is excellent at fully lighting the face sans shadows yet is aesthetically passé.) Alternatives to utilitarian-but-effective fixtures are recessed downlights in the ceiling. Include them over the toilet (for reading in situ) and in damp locations inside the tub or shower area. At the vanity or sink, the best lighting illuminates the face evenly: use a lighted magnifying makeup or shaving mirror mounted on an adjustable arm that can swing close to the face, and place decorative sconces on either side of the mirror to set a pretty scene.
10 VENTILATION
All bathrooms need adequate ventilation for odors and steam. An operable window will suffice if necessary, but a fan that exhausts to the outdoors is better; a combination vent/heater is ideal. These are best controlled separately, and independently of any light fixture. Steam systems need extra ventilation.
11 DRESSING AREA
If space allows, include a hamper for worn clothes. A shower-convenient spot for hanging a robe is a plus.
Joan Dineen deployed full-height sliding panels to separate a wet zone (complete with shower and freestanding tub) from the bathroom proper. The choice of translucent frosted glass helps screen views while still allowing ample influx of daylight. (The same treatment also partitions the toilet, not shown.)
A master bathroom gets decorative panache courtesy of a sophisticated, artful scheme by Peter J. Sinnott IV. He designed a double vanity with inset fabric doors and an integrated primping area—set slightly lower—with accompanying stool (which boasts additional storage). Framed prints and delicate sconces with fabric lampshades create a furnished look.
Other Bathroom Amenities
Multipurpose bathrooms will require additional features.
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ACTIVITY |
ELEMENTS |
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READING |
Bookstand, shelves, or an e-reader stand; a shelf for reading in the tub |
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LOUNGING |
An upholstered chaise and small side table |
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EXERCISING OR YOGA |
A nonskid mat; open floor space; video player, tablet/iPad stand, or monitor |
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WATCHING TV |
Wall bracket or niche; wiring |
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LAPTOP OR TABLET USE |
Wireless connection; wall bracket or ledge |
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LISTENING TO MUSIC |
Speakers and controls |
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LAUNDRY |
Washer and dryer; hamper; storage for detergent; surface for folding |
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STEAM ROOM OR SAUNA |
Special controls and equipment; bench; tight enclosure |
SPATIAL PLANNING
“The bathroom is a very technical room: every element is attached to a wall and/or a floor, and serviced by plumbing,” explains Barbara Sallick, cofounder of Waterworks. “And the smaller the room, the more complicated, from both a design and construction standpoint.” Indeed, it can take serious finessing to fit the necessities into roughly 50 square feet—the average bathroom size—since fixtures and fittings eat up significant floor space. Two elements will dictate the layout:
The tub. A freestanding version especially will command a lot of floor space. Determine the tub’s position first, since there may only be a few places where it will fit. An especially heavy or large tub will also require additional structural reinforcement due to weight when filled.
The location of waste lines. A new-build project will allow more flexibility than an existing space, where piping is already laid. “Waste lines are exceedingly difficult to move; the simplest solution is to leave the toilet where it currently resides and design around it,” Sallick advises.
Next, decide whether the space should be open plan or partitioned into zones or enclosures (such as a water closet with a door or a separate vanity area, perhaps mediating between the bath proper and an adjacent bedroom). When the basic tasks of a bathroom are given their own zone, a new realm of design possibilities opens up.
Striated Linac marble clads the shower area, walls, and countertop of a bathroom by David Scott. Repeated use of the same material creates a sense of continuity; so does the choice of transparent glass to separate wet area from dry.
(+ FOLLOWING): Siting of the tub—adjacent to the window, to enjoy the view—dictated the location of other elements in a master bath by Suzanne Lovell.
DESIGN & DECORATING CONSIDERATIONS
As much decorating thought goes into designing a bathroom as a living room. Perhaps because bathrooms are usually smallish, they seem manageable. But in reality, a bathroom design project will involve dozens of decisions, some of them literally set in stone. Avoid irrevocable errors by working with a professional (if you are not one yourself) who will meticulously measure, locate, and plan every fixed element—from faucets to towel bars—and note which will be recessed and which will need wall blocking for firm anchoring.
A Well-Groomed Vanity
Vanities can be fitted with special drawers to hold and sort cosmetics, and cabinets can hold pullout shelves and drawers for small appliances such as hot rollers, straighteners, and blow-dryers. Provide adequate electrical outlets for all, and anticipate how to manage the cords. Outlets can live inside cabinets or covered with drop-down panels—and can be wired with automatic off switches to prevent fires.
Picking the Right Materials
Choose materials with performance—and ongoing maintenance—in mind. Bathroom finishes are subject to moisture and standing water and may require annual sealing, as in the case of a marble vanity top. Walls, floors, countertops, shower enclosures, and even faucets should pass the practicality test. Let user preferences guide selection: some homeowners like materials that boast a “living” finish, developing a patina with use, such as bronze faucets; others have no tolerance for variegation. A polished-brass finish is often plated over a less expensive silver metal, and the latter will eventually wear through.
VANITIES, FOUR WAYS
1. David Scott integrated open shelving below a chunky marble trough sink, forming a convenient slot to stash towels within easy reach.
2. A wall-hung vanity with integral sink distinguishes a glass-tiled bathroom by Terry Kleinberg. Aqueous hues impart a spa-like mood, while the reflective surfaces create the illusion of spaciousness.
3. Vertical fluorescent light fixtures conjure a faintly deco touch in a modern bathroom by Hamlin Goldreyer. The floating countertop supports a sculptural vessel sink.
4. David Scott custom-designed a colorful vanity for the bathroom of a waterfront home: a sculptural trough sink of translucent acrylic, complemented by a base cabinet in a similar hue.
Bringing Warmth to the Bath
Slick surfaces such as granite countertops, porcelain flooring, and glass-mosaic showers prove durable and easy to clean in a bathroom. But when only smooth finishes are specified, a bathroom can feel a little cold. Opportunities to inject warmth and texture abound: window treatments, shower curtains, towels, area rugs (with a nonslip backing, of course). Even a gathered skirt on a sink base adds a lovely touch, with the extra benefit of hiding storage beneath.
Another idea is to introduce as much wood as possible—perhaps in the vanity’s base, a framed mirror, or shelving. Wood flooring can be used successfully in a bathroom, so long as it’s protected in high-traffic areas (such as in front of a sink) with extra coats of heavy-duty clear finish.
Consider installing a radiant heating system under a tile floor.
A High-Design Water Supply
For the sink and shower/tub, think about how the water should be supplied and controlled—that is, the design and placement of spouts and faucets. Consider a hand spray at the sink (for hair washing); it is a must for large soaking tubs or whirlpools (for ease of cleaning). Controls for a large tub need to be properly sized. Choose a larger tub filler or waterfall spout for increased water volume, so that the bath fills quickly (and doesn’t get tepid). Locate controls at the front ledge of the tub.
A Not-Too-Deep Tub
Despite the allure of a sunken tub, they are very dangerous because they are tricky to get out of safely. Likewise, tubs set into a raised platform and accessed by steps are accidents waiting to happen. Deep tubs need handrails or grab bars for safe egress; a lovely, deep tub is best set into a platform for the bather to sit on before entering.
Controlling the Shower
Showerheads and controls should be located for convenience, so that the user’s head doesn’t get wet just by turning on the control. (Note that body sprays require planning in advance and close coordination between plumber and tile installer.) Consider luxuries like rain bars vertically mounted on the enclosure walls, ceiling-mounted rain showerheads, a steam machine, or a deep bench for reclining. Closely follow all safety recommendations for steam machines, consulting with a plumber on the location of controls and automatic timers.
Choices for the Sink and Vanity
Basin choices will include the shape, depth, and material from which it’s made, and whether to integrate a soap dispenser or dish. Choose between semirecessed style, surface-mounted, or under-mounted vessels, or one that’s integral with the vanity. Materials to consider include porcelain, glass, stone, metal, and ceramic.
At the sink area, counter space is at a premium, but stylistic choices often win the battle: rectangular trough sinks make a unique design statement, but eat up valuable counter space; pedestal sinks are lovely but offer no storage and very little surface area. Vanities are good solutions for both challenges, and can help reinforce the overall design aesthetic of the home. Open metal shelving can support a lovely stone top and vessel sink; a wooden or even a mirrored chest of drawers can be repurposed as a vanity, adding storage and character.
The basin, vanity, faucet/fittings, and mirror are enticing opportunities to create a beautiful vignette of shapes and materials. Yet it’s important to keep in mind that abundant items both big and small tend to accumulate at a bathroom sink, and a good design anticipates how these will be stored, stowed, or displayed.
Playing It Safe Underfoot
The most important safety consideration in a bathroom is preventing slips and falls. While a high-polished stone or tile floor is tempting, the best finish is honed or subtly textured. In a shower, the smaller the tile module, the more slip-resistant it will be due to its grouted grid. Consider little hexagons or half-inch penny rounds.
A Word of Advice About Stone
If slabs of stone like marble or granite are used for countertops or shower enclosures, then any coordinating tiles must be carefully matched to the slabs and purchased at the same time. The patterning can be unpredictable, even within one box (or sourced from one area of a quarry).
Metal Finish Maintenance
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LOW MAINTENANCE |
MEDIUM MAINTENANCE |
HIGH MAINTENANCE |
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(+FOLLOWING:) Large footprints and open knee space below the sinks make for accessible bathrooms at the Universal Design Living Laboratory.
OUTDOOR SPACES
The boundary between indoors and out has become increasingly porous. Products conceived for alfresco environments are more design-forward these days, and manufacturers have expanded their roster of offerings. There are now outdoor lighting fixtures, fabrics, and even kitchen elements to rival the stylishness of their indoor counterparts. At the same time, these features are migrating inside the home as well, often where high-performance finishes are desired; consider outdoor fabrics like solution-dyed acrylic, which is often used to cover seating in family rooms or pet-friendly spaces.
Outdoor living mimics indoor life in terms of the type (and variety) of activities that take place there and the furniture arrangements and support services required. Each activity—dining, relaxing, snoozing, reading—needs proper seating, surfaces, storage, and illumination. The primary difference between indoor and outdoor spaces is that the latter must be designed to withstand sunshine, moisture, insects, and temperature fluctuations. Whether an open-to-the-elements shower, a breezeway sitting area, a screened-in porch, or a semienclosed pool cabana, the more exposed to the elements a space is, the more hard-wearing the finishes and furnishings should be.
An infinity-edge pool is the focal point for an outdoor living environment by David Scott. He created a series of more intimate arrangements—one for dining, one for sunbathing, one for group interactions, and one oriented around a fire pit for evening fun. A quiet complement of beachy hues for flooring (sandstone pavers), upholstery, and outdoor textiles keeps the focus on the conversation—and the view.
DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS
The outdoor space should complement not only the surrounding landscape but also the aesthetic of the main house (or adjacent room). Stylistically, an outdoor space can be more casual than the interior, since it’s typically devoted to relaxing and entertaining. Put the emphasis on comfort, hospitality, and ease of maintenance, in terms of storage and cleanup.
It goes without saying that materials for outdoor spaces need to be low-maintenance, washable, and moisture-proof or fabricated of a natural material that acquires a patina with age and exposure. Keep in mind how the structure is oriented on the site—for example, which side faces the morning or setting sun—as well as when the space will be used. This will inform the need for shading devices.
A weekend home by Suzanne Lovell features a covered living space that’s open to the elements. (A folding glass wall retracts to connect the space with the adjacent kitchen in warmer months.) The designer specified indoor/outdoor textiles for the sofas, plus teak frames that stand up well to wind and moisture.
Outdoor Design Solutions
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TO CONTROL |
USE |
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SUNSHINE |
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HEAT |
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COLD |
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WIND |
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MOISTURE |
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INSECTS AND OTHER PESTS |
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PRIVACY |
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DARKNESS |
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DIRT/DUST |
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SPATIAL PLANNING
When setting up furniture for a deck or a patio, follow the same guidelines as you would for an interior living room. Poolside or at the dining table, create separate groupings for quiet retreat versus more boisterous family-and-friends gatherings. Keep things casual, flexible, and elegant.
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FROM MOST EXPOSED TO MOST ENCLOSED |
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Plein air patio or deck |
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Pergola or arbor |
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Covered porch or veranda |
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Curtained porch |
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Screened-in porch |
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Pavilion or room enclosed in folding/sliding glass doors/walls |
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Room or freestanding cabana with one or more walls that slide open |
Silvina Leone used color to give a large outdoor living environment cohesion. The exterior of the house—including the deck’s ceiling—is painted crimson, a hue that threads through the upholstery details and patio umbrella. The color also plays nicely off the surrounding greenery.
Architect Donald Billinkoff designed a screened-in living/dining porch that spans one end of his home. Aluminum chairs, teak seating units, and outdoor fabrics are hearty choices that hold up to sun, cold, and rain; in fact, furnishings don’t have to be taken inside during the cold winter months or covered in plastic—an important consideration when an interior is open to a porch or a deck.
