Kansas Caravan, 1881

Mary E. Bower

INTRODUCTION

It was in February, 1984, that this editor made a speech at the Y.W.C.A. in Salem, Oregon, telling about the Covered Wagon Women project. A couple of days later I had a note from Sarah McLellan saying that a neighbor of hers had a diary of a woman crossing the plains. I followed up on this information and a few days later had the diary in my hands. It belongs to Harry J. Loggan, then of Salem, who has been enthusiastic about its inclusion in our set of books. Mr. Loggan now lives in Portland.

The diary was written by his grandmother, Mary E. Bower of Harney County, Oregon. Mrs. Bower was born in Geauga County, Ohio, on October 5, 1844. Her parents were Elijah and Wealthy Weston.

Mary and Seth Bower were married on December 3,1865. He was a Civil War veteran, having enlisted in the 15th Ohio Heavy Artillery. After the marriage they settled and farmed in Crawford County, Kansas, then in Butler County, in the same state. In 1881 they crossed the plains to Oregon. At first they settled in the Grande Ronde Valley right on the Oregon Trail. That was their home until 1884, when they took up a claim in Harney County, Oregon. They also opened a general store in Harney City. Mary Bower ran the general merchandise store for many years.

The Bowers were the parents of four children. Two of them died in infancy, one a son named Weston, who passed away in southern Idaho during the journey to the far west. A son, Bert Bower, lived until 1924. A daughter, Mrs. Charles W. Loggan, survived her mother. Mrs. Bower was a devoted member of the Methodist Church.

The Country Store of Mary and Seth Bower in Harney, Oregon.

The building no longer exists.

Courtesy of Hairy J. Loggan, Portland, Oregon

THE DIARY OF MARY E. BOWER

May 11th, 1881. Got ready to move this morning Stozzie came down after dinner with the wagon & took me up to see Lona’s grave. Then we started for W.T.1 The Frye family came down to see us off, got started about 2 oclock drove to Dry Creek & camped stopped on the road at Jim McClue to bid Abbie & the rest goodby Tho[mas] Hostetter stood on the corner to say Good by and gave me 60 sheets of paper Mrs Banks some yeast Mrs Watson stood at the door May 12th, 1881 It rained hard all night and all the forenoon, cleared up about noon, got out and washed dishes the first time since I started Did not move camp. Stafford’s folks came to us in the morning in the a m we have had a pleasant time to day been ordered off our camp ground, did not go all the same

May 13th 1881 Left our camp ground on spring creek early in the morning, got to Wichita about 8 o’clock stopped and got berties babys 8c my own photos taken. Mrs Stafford & I got Orlster & Ruching went to a restaurant for our dinner. Started from Wichita about three o’clock crossed the big Ark[ansas] on the bridge. Was rejoined by 7 more wagons, making in all 14 wagons drove about 8 miles and camped just before sundown on the open prairie

May 14th Rained hard during the night until late in the morning, concluded not to break up camp until next day, or until the weather settled. Mrs. Stafford & I washed did not boil our white clothes. Mr. Stafford & Goodspeed took the buggy and went to the Arkansas River for wood some of the outfit dissatisfied because we laid over

May 15th Sunday Broke up camp early roads awful muddy come up the Arkansas through a pretty country stopped for dinner teams very tired I was quite sick so was the baby. had Kittie get on the wagon and ride with me to help take care of the baby, camped at the school house got water at school for use

Monday May 16th Found some better roads today took dinner near the Arkansas in sight of Huchinson, crossed the bridge close to H. got into town but looks dead & deserted. failure of crops the cause. everything looks favorable for good crops this year plenty of rain. we camped at school house

May 17th started from camp early, came through Nickerson about 8 oclock and through Sterling about 11 oclock went into camp about noon on the west side of Sterling traveled through a very poor country all the afternoon and camped on the Arkansas just east of Raymond awful lonesome poor country

Wednesday May 18th Broke camp early in morning, passed through Raymond, and through Ellenwood, wind blew cold all day after dinner drove through Great Bend and camped about 4 miles N W of Great Bend looks as if we might have a cold rain. Plenty of water & grass but no wood only what we brought with teams

Thursday May 19th 1881 Waked up late found it raining hard and cold cooked dinner with Staffords folks rained all day hard stayed in the tent all day Mrs Stafford & I had our hair shingled did not move at all today, we washed some

Friday May 20th staid in camp all day, rained hard. Bill Shirod, Geo Stafford & Seth went to Great Bend. Seth bought a tent he paid for half & Goodspeed the other half. Got it in time to cook supper it seems real nice to have a shelter with a stove in it, went to bed early, still raining

Sat May 21st 1881 Broke up camp quite late only traveled about 8 miles, stopped for dinner & to dry our things, just got them out, began to rain, had to hustle them all in the wagon staid there washed some, browned coffee, made biscuits & cleaned up. Charlie came over & played his fiddle all the eve

Sunday May 22nd Started from camp quite late, roads awful bad took dinner a little ways from Walnut Creek out on the prairie, did not build any fire. camped at night one mile north of a sod school house, nearly all the dwelling houses are sod, a few one story flat roofed rock. Was in sight of Walnut Creek all day

Monday May 23 Broke our camp early, came through a pretty country camped for dinner on Big Timber in a little horse shoe valley, think it the prettiest place I ever saw. Hitched up crossed the Smoky Hill River, and I do think I never saw such a pretty view about a mile north of the R. entered the menonite country, passed near a menonite town called Russion passed a menonite grave yard and all so strange and new Baby awful good

Tuesday May 24th 1881 Left our camp on big Creek early and in a half hour reached Hayes City stopped a few minutes to make a few purchases and paid more for things there than I ever paid for things on the route so far, came out west about 2 miles began to rain, stopped and staid until we ate dinner, drove through Ellis and camped by the Rail R near a creek, roads bad. looks like more rain

Wednesday May 25th 1881 Rained during the night; still raining in the morning, thought best to stay in camp until after dinner cleared up at about 9 oclock Mrs Stafford &. I washed, baked biscuits, brewed coffee and eat early and started, roads bad came through a small town called Ogallah on the KP RR stopped about three miles east of Wa Keeny and camped no water and poor feed no wood only what we brought in our wagons. Bertie2 broke a window glass out of a vacant house

Thursday May 26th 1881 Broke camp quite early. I walked a bout half a mile. Stopped in Wa Keeny to help Reeves’ folks start their box, stopped for dinner on the Saline River Baby and I almost sick, took 2 quinine, early in afternoon came to Happy Hollow, consists of a sod dwelling, sod store with P.O. a little stream of water with the best well of water I ever saw in K. camped on a small stream, Sand Creek.

Friday May 27th 1881 Rained & blowed fearfully during the night, did not start until late, roads bad. passed through a small town called Millbrook entered the valley of the S Fork of the Sol[omon] River crossed and immediately entered another town Gettysburg and camped for noon at a nice place called Sand Creek, passed through a pretty country, drove 15 miles, began to rain soon as we reached Brush Creek went into camp good grazing for teams.

Sat May 28th 1881 Rained hard during night; wind blew cold from the north did not leave camp early crossed north fork of Sol[omon] just west of Lenora drove out on the divide about 20 miles & stopped a short time for dinner hitched up drove 4 miles father to a nice stream (Prairie Dog) stopped to stay over Sunday. I washed some dried out the wagon looked lots like rain wood, water, and feed plenty

Sunday May 29th Woke up found it raining hard. did not get out early as we were not going to move today. it seems as if the rains follow us. have had no rain through here but we brought a heavy rain, rained hard morning hung my washing out in the rain and they dried in the afternoon baked lots of light bread Goodspeed & Ensley went to cooking by themselves Ensley got [?] at Seth, went to bed early awful tired

Mon. May 30th Did not move today, Dried up everything, and washed my colored clothes, part of the party left toward night. To tired to rest in the afternoon Mrs Stafford & I walked down the creek the little store & P.O. across the camp is called Slabtown. Seth & Reeves went and traded mules for horses. went to bed early

Tuesday May 31st Pulled up camp early in the morning, overtook the rest of the outfit beyond the next creek, Moddrell had brake down, camped for dinner on a sod prairie, without wood, water or scarcely feed for our horses went on about 2 miles and come to a creek called Soppy [Sappa], Just beyond was the town of Oberlin, Decatur Co. Kan so called Oberlin, Ohio a smart little place & County Seat, come out about 5 miles camped where everything is convenient, No timber

Wednesday June 1st Decatur Co Kan Left home three weeks ago today; Left camp quite early, took dinner on the prairie high up above the creek, creek being fenced in, drove up the Beaver [Creek], passed a sort of a sod hut, where foreigners were holding meeting, reached the cattle trail about 1 oclock followed it up through gorges and ravines until we reached a small creek, camped for night lots of dissatisfaction in camp Hitchcock Co Nebraska

June 2nd Broke camp early passed over lots of prairie without a house in sight. Took dinner on the Republican [River] after crossing. Drove 20 miles to a creek called Frenchman did not get there until 7 oclock; had to drive nearly a mile down the awfulest ravine where we could scarcely get down and took us until dark to reach the bottom, it is a deep, swift running stream, had to drive my own team, my eyes are spread so wide I fear I cant shut them, see lots of antelopes they got after one

Friday June 3rd Did not leave camp until late for we did not expect to go any farther than Stinking Water [Stinking-water Creek] which is only 10 miles, another awful long gorge to go down, had to use spades, reached the creek about noon Stopped over until tomorrow nice scenery along these streams but scarcely any settlement. I am tired clear out baby cross the forenoon & I had to drive myself.

June 4th Saturday Started late, drove up stinking water about 12 miles. camped expecting to stay all night. Sherod killed an antelope, had a piece for supper. The men concluded to move part of the way (over the 30 mile plain) after night, so we are pulling out, dreadful hot and I am sick, drove until midnight, do not expect wood or water until we reach the Platte River. drove until about 12 oclock camped on the 30 mile strip 15 miles from anywhere.

Sunday June 5th Broke camp at 4 oclock in morn made nothing but coffee drove out to the Platte River reached it about noon river up dont know as we can ford the river it is nearly ¾ mile wide over to Ogalalla [Ogallala, a town]. Some of the boys went across a horse back dug a well before we could get any thing to eat the river is so riley and so much alkali

Monday June 6th Crossed the Platte this morning Charlie Lamb drove over for me Ogalalla is a small depot town on the U.P. Road.

[EDITOR’S NOTE: Each of the pages following was blank but with the date written in from June 7 to June 20. The word “Sick” was inserted after the date each day from June 7 to June 11.]

July 3rd Arrived at Green River City [Wyoming] about noon could not get the wheel mended until Monday put our tent up, had a real sand storm heard of Garfield’s assassination3 this eve feeling real weak

July 16th In Tri [?] Camp on Bear River close to Bennington, 6 miles west of Montpelier camped at the foot of Utah Mt. & the Watchsa [Wasatch] Mt across the River. Wrote to Ren today

July 20th Left Tri Camp this morning reached Soda Springs [Idaho] near night camped at night one mile beyond town near a boiling soda spring on the banks of Bear River the spring boils up about three ft the water running off in the sand. Tis as warm as dish water

July 21st Traveled up Bear River until about 10 o clock, then left it, the stream turning abruptly south & we north, came to another soda spring in a stone basin about 12 ft across formed by nature

July 29th come on to Silver Creek, found Elisah Gardner keeping saloon, Camped on Wood River

July 31st Camped on Camas Prairie4 all day washed, Taylor Glen from Oregon come into camp ta[l]ked very discourageing, it was quite cool, baby laid in the wagon all day

Aug 1st Left Stafford on Camas Prairie about 3 oclock; think of stopping there camped at night still on Camas Aug 2nd camped at night near the forks of the tole road & cattle trail road

Aug 3rd traveled the Cattle trail road today a fearful road, camped at noon on a little stream between to formadable looking mountains at night on quite a decent looking place

Aug 4th reached the stage road today passed through a little bit of a town and camped 20 miles east of Boisi City

Aug 5th Came in sight of Bois City today and went into camp about 2 oclock 4 miles from the City at Mr Hosmers place I washed Mr Stafford came up with us today. I washed hot & dusty for baby

Aug 6th Went into the City [Boise] early in the morning Baby not so well concluded to stop a few day, Too hot to travel with baby went into a house 4 miles up the river

Aug 7th Sunday today Mrs Smith a neighbor called on Mrs Coleman & I. Stafford came over; had lost his way

Aug 8th Coleman & Goodspeed started to look for places baby seems rested and a little better.

Aug 9th awful hot

Aug 10th continues hot went to washing Mrs

Aug 11th Hot Mrs Coleman washed Baby worried all night

Aug 12th Baby worried all night Seth washed for Mrs Hutchinson

Aug 13th Finished our washing. Washed a quilt, baby better Coleman & Goodspeed came home tonight

Aug 14th Dell came home today wants me to wash for him Baby seems better

Aug 15th Colemans starts for the west. Seth & Goodspeed get their loads for Rockey Bar5 Seth fetches Mrs Richards up to stay with me Baby seems quite smart, alone all day

Aug 16th Baby seems better. Seth & G. start for Rocky Bar, making Mrs Smith a dress

Aug 17th Baby sick all night carried him all night Richards came home sick

Aug 18th Baby dreadful sick all night, had to carry him all night worse today. called Dr. Stephen in. said he was teething, ordered Beef tea Mrs. Smith & a strange woman there, Smith goes for medicine & beef

[EDITOR’S NOTE: The baby, Weston Bower, died soon after the above entry. There is between the pages of Mary Bower’s little diary notebook a lock of the baby’s dark hair tied in a circle with a blue ribbon.]

The cherished curl of brown hair from the head of the baby

Weston Bower who died in southern Idaho.

Courtesy of Harry J. Loggan, Portland, Oregon

1 We assume that she means here “Washington Territory.” They did not get to Washington Territory but turned off the trail in northeastern Oregon.

2 This was the Bowers’ child, Bert or Albert.

3 President James A. Garfield was shot by an assassin on July 2, 1881. He did not die until September 19, 1881. Such immediate knowledge of the event was made possible by the telegraph. Within a day it was known in Green River, Wyoming.

4 There are Camas Prairies, Camas Creeks, Camas Meadows, and Buttes all over Idaho. There is no way to be sure of this one. Lalia Boone, Idaho Place Names, Moscow, Idaho, 1988.

5 Rocky Bar was evidently their tentative destination. It was a center of mining when the Bowers arrived there in 1881. Boone, op. cit., p. 319.