Comfort Me with Offal

Ooey-gooeyness at its finest! With a feathery crumb, a sweet and cinnamon-y filling, and a creamy frosting, this roll could be a clone of the famous Cinnabon.

PAN SAUCE:

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

DOUGH:

Flour for dusting

1 recipe Traditional Cinnamon Roll Dough

FILLING:

1 cup packed dark brown sugar

2 1/2 tablespoons cinnamon

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

FROSTING:

1 (3-ounce) package cream cheese, softened

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

1 1/2 cups confectioners’ sugar

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

1/8 teaspoon salt

1. For the pan sauce, spread the butter into the bottom of a 9 by 13-inch pan.

2. Transfer the dough to a floured surface and roll out to a 16 by 20-inch rectangle.

3. For the filling, combine the brown sugar and cinnamon in a bowl. Spread the dough with the butter and sprinkle with the cinnamon sugar. Starting with a shorter side, roll up the dough to form a tight 16-inch cylinder. Cut the cylinder into 12 rolls. Place in the prepared pan spiral side up. Cover with a tea towel and let rise in a warm place until almost doubled, 45 to 60 minutes.

4. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Bake for 15 to 17 minutes or until lightly browned on top.

5. For the frosting, blend all the ingredients in the bowl of a food processor until smooth. Spread the frosting over the warm rolls.

Bakeries throughout the Midwest sell schnecken, the German word for “snails” (referring to the spiral shape). In Cincinnati, Ohio, a loaf of schnecken is composed of three coils of cinnamon, sugar, and raisin-filled yeast dough, baked on a thick bed of softened butter sprinkled with sugar. They’re only available at holiday time, unless you bake your own. Because it’s very rich, it’s often sliced for serving, and one loaf will easily serve about eight people.

PAN SAUCE:

1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened

1 cup granulated sugar

Pinch of salt

DOUGH:

Flour for dusting

1 recipe Traditional Cinnamon Roll Dough

CINNAMON FILLING:

2/3 cup packed light brown sugar

2 teaspoons cinnamon

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

1 cup raisins

1. For the pan sauce, spread half of the butter into the bottom of two 5 by 9 by 3-inch loaf pans. Cover the bottom entirely or the schnecken will stick. Sprinkle half the sugar and a very little pinch of salt over the butter in each pan.

2. Transfer the dough to a floured surface and roll out to a 12-inch square.

3. For the filling, combine the brown sugar and cinnamon in a small bowl. Spread the butter over the dough. Sprinkle with the cinnamon sugar and raisins. Pat the filling into the dough. Roll up the dough to form a tight 12-inch cylinder. Cut the dough into 6 slices. Arrange 3 slices, spiral side up, in the bottom of each prepared pan. Cover the pans with a tea towel and let rise in a warm place until almost doubled, 45 to 60 minutes

4. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Bake for 20 to 22 minutes or until lightly browned. Let cool for 1 minute, then invert onto serving platters. You can pull apart the rolls to serve them, or slice each loaf into smaller portions.

With the flavor of honey in the dough and a final dusting of cinnamon sugar, these coiled doughnuts are an East Coast tradition. Instead of frying, this oven-baking technique makes a roll that’s easier and just as tasty. Cinnamon sugar provides a sweet and spicy finish.

CINNAMON SUGAR:

1/2 cup packed dark brown sugar

1 tablespoon cinnamon

Pinch of salt

DOUGH:

Flour for dusting

1 recipe Honeybun Dough (variation)

Vegetable oil for brushing

1. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. For the cinnamon sugar, combine the sugar, cinnamon, and salt in a bowl.

2. Transfer the dough to a floured surface and cut into 24 pieces. Roll each piece into a 12-inch rope. Form each rope into a coil and pinch closed. Place the honeybuns on the prepared baking sheets, cover with tea towels, and let rise in a warm place until almost doubled, 45 to 60 minutes.

3. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Brush the rolls with vegetable oil. Bake 12 to 14 minutes, or until the honeybuns are a medium brown. While still warm in the pan, sprinkle each honeybun with cinnamon sugar.

You’ll need about 3 medium oranges for this recipe, for the zest and juice in the filling and for the glaze. These rolls smell so fabulous that you’ll be tempted to gobble them up before they’ve cooled.

PAN SAUCE:

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

DOUGH:

Flour for dusting

1 recipe Traditional Cinnamon Roll Dough

SPICED ORANGE FILLING:

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

2 teaspoons freshly grated orange zest

2/3 cup granulated sugar

2 teaspoons cinnamon

SWEET ORANGE DRIZZLE

1 1/2 cups confectioners’ sugar

1 teaspoon freshly grated orange zest

1/4 cup freshly squeezed orange juice

1. For the pan sauce, spread the butter into the bottom of two 9-inch square baking pans.

2. Transfer the dough to a floured surface. Cut the dough in half. Roll each half out to an 8 by 12-inch rectangle.

3. For the filling, combine the butter and orange zest in a small bowl. Combine the sugar and cinnamon in a separate bowl. Spread half the orange butter over each half of the dough and sprinkle each with half the cinnamon sugar. Roll up the dough and form into a tight 12-inch long cylinder. Cut each cylinder into 9 slices. Arrange the slices, spiral side up, in the prepared pans. Cover the pans with a tea towel and place in a warm place to rise until almost doubled, 45 to 60 minutes.

4. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Bake for 25 to 27 minutes, or until lightly browned.

5. For the drizzle, whisk all the ingredients together in a small bowl. Drizzle over the warm rolls.

Sometimes bigger is better. Although these are not as big as the dinner-plate-size rolls at Johnson’s Corner in Loveland, Colorado, they certainly fill out a dessert plate. For fans of cinnamon rolls from WheatFields Bakery Café in Lawrence, Kansas; Machine Shed restaurants throughout Iowa, Wisconsin, and Minnesota; or excess in general—this is your roll. Frosting the rolls while still warm gives a happily gooey result.

PAN SAUCE:

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

2 teaspoons cinnamon

2 tablespoons granulated sugar

DOUGH:

Flour for dusting

1 recipe Traditional Cinnamon Roll Dough

CINNAMON FILLING:

1 cup packed dark brown sugar

2 1/2 tablespoons cinnamon

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

GOOEY FROSTING:

1 1/2 cups confectioners’ sugar

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

Pinch of salt

1 tablespoon whole milk

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1. For the pan sauce, spread the butter into the bottom of a 9-inch square baking pan. Combine the cinnamon and sugar and sprinkle over the butter.

2. Transfer the dough to a floured surface. Roll out the dough to a 12 by 26-inch rectangle.

3. For the filling, combine the sugar and cinnamon. Spread the butter over the dough and sprinkle with the cinnamon sugar. Pat the filling into the dough. Roll up the dough, starting with a short end, and form the cylinder into a fat 12-inch cylinder. Cut the cylinder into 6 slices. Arrange the slices, spiral side up, in the prepared pan. Cover the pan with a tea towel and place in a warm place to rise until almost doubled, 45 to 60 minutes.

4. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Bake for 25 to 27 minutes or until risen and browned.

5. For the frosting, whisk all the ingredients together in a bowl until smooth. Spread over the warm rolls.

Known as kanelbullar, these petite rolls form their own topknot. They’re crisper and spicier than their North American cousins, meant to be enjoyed with a cup of strong coffee for a mid-morning or afternoon break. Make these in two batches; keep half of the dough covered in the refrigerator, then let it come to room temperature to form into rolls and bake in your prettiest cupcake papers.

DOUGH:

Flour for dusting

1 recipe Traditional Cinnamon Roll Dough

CINNAMON-CARDAMOM FILLING:

1/2 cup granulated sugar

1 tablespoon cinnamon

1 teaspoon cardamom

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

EGG WASH:

2 large egg yolks, beaten with 2 teaspoons water

TOPPING:

3/4 cup Swedish pearl sugar or coarsely crushed sugar cubes

1. Line 48 muffin cups with cupcake liners.

2. Transfer the dough to a floured surface. Cut the dough in fourths. Roll each fourth out to an 8 by 12-inch rectangle.

3. For the filling, combine the sugar, cinnamon, and cardamom in a small bowl. Brush a fourth of the butter over the dough and sprinkle with a fourth of the spice mixture.

4. Roll up the dough and form into a tight 12-inch long cylinder. Cut each cylinder into 12 slices. Place each slice, spiral side up, in a paper-lined muffin cup. Repeat with the remaining dough. Cover the pans with a tea towel and place in a warm place to rise until almost doubled, 45 to 60 minutes.

5. Brush the tops of the rolls with egg wash and sprinkle with pearl sugar.

6. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Bake for 12 to 14 minutes, or until lightly browned.

Mexican chocolate—a blend of chocolate, sugar, and cinnamon—can go grocery store or artisan. You can find Ibarra and Abuelita grocery store brands in the Hispanic drink aisle. Specialty chocolate makers Kakua in Mexico and Taza in Massachusetts make different varieties of Mexican chocolate, some with ground chiles added for a little extra zip. Mexican chocolate comes in 3-inch or so tablets that you must grate or coarsely chop to use in this recipe.

PAN SAUCE:

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

DOUGH:

Flour for dusting

1 recipe Traditional Cinnamon Roll Dough

MEXICAN CHOCOLATE FILLING:

1 cup packed light brown sugar

2 tablespoons cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon ground ancho or chipotle chile

1/4 teaspoon salt

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

1 cup coarsely chopped Mexican chocolate

MEXICAN VANILLA ICING:

1 1/2 cups confectioners’ sugar

2 to 3 tablespoons half-and-half

1 teaspoon vanilla extract, preferably Mexican

1. For the pan sauce, spread the butter into the bottom of two 9-inch square baking pans.

2. Transfer the dough to a floured surface. Cut in half. Roll each half to an 8 by 12-inch rectangle.

3. For the filling, mix the brown sugar, cinnamon, chile, and salt in a bowl. Spread each dough rectangle with half the butter. Sprinkle with half the filling and half the Mexican chocolate. Starting with a long end, roll up and form into a tight 12-inch cylinder. Cut each cylinder into 12 slices. Place each slice, spiral side up, in the prepared pans. Cover with tea towels and let rise in a warm place until almost doubled, 45 to 60 minutes.

4. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Bake for 12 to 14 minutes or until risen and browned. Cool completely.

5. For the icing, whisk all the ingredients together in a bowl until smooth. Drizzle the icing over the cooled rolls.

For a cold weather brunch—or breakfast for dinner— these rolls get a final drizzle of warm pear caramel. You can find bottled pear nectar in the health food section of better grocery stores.

PAN SAUCE:

4 tablespoons butter, softened

DOUGH:

Flour for dusting

1 recipe Traditional Cinnamon Roll Dough

CINNAMON-PEAR FILLING:

1/2 cup all-purpose flour

1/2 cup packed light or dark brown sugar

1/4 cup granulated sugar

2 teaspoons cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon salt

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

1 large, ripe pear, peeled, cored, and finely chopped

WARM PEAR CARAMEL:

2/3 cup packed light or dark brown sugar

3 tablespoons cornstarch

2 cups pear nectar or apple cider

6 tablespoons heavy cream

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/4 teaspoon coarse kosher or sea salt or as desired

1. For the pan sauce, spread the butter into the bottom of a 10-inch springform pan.

2. Transfer the dough to a floured surface. Roll the dough out to a 10 by 12-inch rectangle.

3. For the filling, combine the flour, sugars, cinnamon, and salt in a medium bowl. Work in the butter with a fork or your fingers until the mixture forms crumbs. Dot the dough with the spice mixture and chopped pear. Pat the filling into the dough. Roll up the dough and form into a tight 12-inch cylinder. Cut the dough into 12 slices and place, spiral side up, in the prepared pan.

4. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Bake for 25 to 27 minutes, or until the rolls have risen and browned.

5. For the caramel sauce, whisk the brown sugar and cornstarch together in a large saucepan. Press out any lumps with your fingers. Stir in the pear nectar and cook over medium-high heat, whisking constantly, until large bubbles form around the perimeter of the pan and the sauce thickens, 10 to 12 minutes. Remove from the heat and whisk in the cream, butter, and salt until the butter melts. Drizzle over the rolls.

This centuries-old recipe is so popular we still sing about it in a nursery rhyme. The yeasty spice and dried fruit buns are eaten in England on Good Friday. This version features cinnamon in the dough, but feel free to use the traditional mixed spice combination of cinnamon with a little nutmeg and allspice, if you prefer.

DOUGH:

Flour for dusting

1 recipe Hot Cross Bun Dough (variation)

EGG WASH:

1 large egg mixed with
1 teaspoon water

HOT CROSS BUN ICING:

2/3 cup confectioners’ sugar

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

2 teaspoons milk

1. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

2. Transfer the dough to a floured surface. Cut the dough into 18 pieces and form each piece into a ball. Place the pieces 1 inch apart on the prepared pan. Cover with a tea towel and let rise in a warm place until almost doubled, 45 to 60 minutes.

3. Brush the top of each roll with the egg wash.

4. Preheat the oven to 375°F. Bake for 20 to 22 minutes or until risen and browned.

5. For the icing, whisk all the ingredients together until smooth. Spoon the icing into a sealable plastic sandwich bag. Snip a corner from the bag and squeeze an icing cross onto each bun.

Sticky buns, beloved in New England, feature a gooey, caramelized pan sauce that forms the topping when a pan of rolls is inverted. Inspired by Joanne Chang’s fabulous sticky buns at Flour Bakery and Café in Boston, these buns bake to a dark brown, glossy finish and are best served warm. To toast whole pecans, place them on a baking sheet at 350°F for 15 minutes, then chop.

PAN SAUCE:

3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter

1 1/2 cups packed light brown sugar

1/3 cup clover honey

1/3 cup heavy cream

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

1/2 cup toasted, chopped pecans

DOUGH:

Flour for dusting

1 recipe Traditional Cinnamon Roll Dough

CINNAMON-PECAN FILLING:

1/4 cup granulated sugar

1/4 cup packed light brown sugar

2 teaspoons cinnamon

1/8 teaspoon salt

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

1/2 cup toasted, chopped pecans

1. For the pan sauce, melt the butter in a saucepan over medium-high heat and whisk in the brown sugar until well combined but not smooth. Remove from the heat and whisk in the honey, cream, and salt until smooth. Let cool to room temperature, about 30 minutes, then pour and spread into a 9 by 13-inch pan. Scatter the pecans over the pan sauce.

2. Transfer the dough to a floured surface and roll to a 16 by 20-inch rectangle.

3. For the filling, combine the sugars, cinnamon, and salt. Spread the dough with the butter and sprinkle with the cinnamon sugar mixture, then the pecans. Starting with a short end, roll up and form into a tight 16-inch cylinder. Cut the cylinder into 12 slices. Place each slice, spiral side up, in the prepared pan. Cover with a tea towel and let rise in a warm place until almost doubled, 45 to 60 minutes.

4. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Bake for 22 to 25 minutes or until medium brown in the creases. Let cool in the pan for 20 minutes, then turn out each roll, one by one, onto a serving platter and top with pan sauce.