This is classed as one of my signature dishes and shows how simple my cooking has become over the years. All the components can be made in advance and the pesto is a great way of extending the wild garlic season. You won’t need all the pesto for this recipe so just store any surplus in the fridge for another day. Mixed with equal quantities of crème fraîche and mayonnaise, it’s great in a chicken sandwich or as a dip.
SERVES 4 AS A STARTER
For the gnocchi
600g Maris Piper potatoes
100g pasta flour
50g fine semolina
2 tsp Maldon sea salt, finely ground
1 large free-range egg yolk (20g)
For the pesto
150g wild garlic leaves, washed and de-stalked
85g Parmesan, coarsely grated
100g pine nuts, toasted
light olive oil
lemon juice to taste
Maldon sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
To serve
150ml vegetable stock (see Basics p. 284)
Parmesan for shaving
1. To make the gnocchi, steam the potatoes or boil in their skins until completely tender. While still warm, peel and rice the potatoes, or push them through a coarse sieve. Don’t mash or overwork the potato as this tends to make the gnocchi heavy. Weigh out 400g of the riced potato and place on the work surface. Sift the flour, semolina and salt together and sprinkle half over the potato. Drizzle with the egg yolk and then sprinkle on the remaining flour mix.
2. Use a metal dough-scraper or a large kitchen knife to chop the mix together, repeatedly turning it over and then chopping again until the egg is reasonably well distributed, taking care not to overwork the mix. Once the mix is evenly blended, bring together by hand and knead very briefly. Divide the dough into four pieces and cover with cling film.
3. Working with one piece of dough at time, roll out into a sausage 1.5cm thick and cut into sections 1cm long. Roll each piece into a ball and then form on a gnocchi paddle or the back of a large fork. Alternatively, use the back of a dinner knife to cut the dough sausage into pillows.
4. Repeat with the remaining dough, placing the finished gnocchi on a tray dusted with semolina.
5. Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil, turn down to a simmer and add the gnocchi a quarter of the batch at a time. Stir the pan, and when the gnocchi float to the surface, cook for 1 minute. Remove into iced water. Once all the gnocchi are blanched, drain and toss in a little olive oil. The gnocchi can be refrigerated or loose-frozen.
6. For the pesto, place the wild garlic, Parmesan and pine nuts in a blender and pulse until roughly blended. Pulse in enough olive oil to make a paste that can be quenelled. Season with salt, pepper and lemon juice.
7. To serve, bring a large pan of water to the simmer and add a generous amount of salt. Drop in the gnocchi and heat until they just start to float. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on a clean cloth. Heat some olive oil in a large non-stick pan and fry the gnocchi in batches until they are golden brown. Heat the vegetable stock and add 1 heaped tablespoon of pesto per portion. Add the fried gnocchi, toss together and adjust the seasoning. Divide between shallow bowls, shave some Parmesan over the top and drizzle with your favourite olive oil.
NOTE: At the start of the wild garlic season, the leaves are often stronger so you may only need a reduced quantity.