SERVES 4 AS A STARTER

For the pigeon

2 pigeon crowns (remove from the fridge 30 minutes before cooking.)

2 tbsp olive oil

1 clove of garlic, smashed

4 sprigs of thyme

25g unsalted butter

50ml water

Maldon sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the dressing

4 rashers of smoked, streaky bacon, cut into 1cm pieces

50ml stock; pigeon, chicken or vegetable

1 tbsp olive oil

2 tbsp good balsamic vinegar

Maldon sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the salad

1 bunch spring onions, trimmed and washed

2 tsp olive oil

60g watercress, large stalks removed

Maldon sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

To serve

a handful of freshly made croutons

1. Preheat the oven to 180°C.

2. Season the pigeon crowns well and heat half the oil in a heavy-based frying pan. Place the pigeons in, laying them on one breast. Cook for 1–2 minutes until the skin is golden and then turn onto the other breast and repeat. Add the remaining oil then the garlic, thyme and butter. Baste the pigeons and then turn to sit breast up.

3. Add the water to the pan and transfer to the hot oven for 2–3 minutes. Press the pigeon at the fattest part of the breast to check for doneness; the meat should feel firm not flabby but have lots of give still. Remove to rest on a wire rack, breast down. Tip the butter and herbs over the top.

4. To make the dressing, cook the bacon in a small, non-stick pan until crisp and golden. Add the stock and reduce by half, then stir in the oil and vinegar. Adjust the seasoning.

5. For the salad, toss the spring onions with the oil and a little seasoning, and cook in a hot chargrill pan, turning frequently. Covering with a lid to create a little steam helps to cook the onions through. Total cooking time will be 3-4 minutes. Slice into three pieces and toss with the watercress.

6. To serve, add a little of the dressing to the watercress and spring onions, and then divide between the bowls or plates. Carve the breast from the pigeons and slice each into five or six slices. The skin will vary; sometimes it has enough fat to crisp nicely but on other occasions it can be chewy, so make a call and peel it off before slicing if necessary. Scatter the croutons over the salad, arrange the pigeon slices and then spoon the warm dressing on top.