Freshly baked bread is a real joy. The focaccia is a distinct contrast to the Viennese loaf that features later in the year and, for me, it is a summer bread. It makes a great accompaniment to the squid with chorizo in July, it could have this month’s basil pesto spooned into the holes you push in the dough, and is really good chargrilled either in a griddle pan or on the barbecue. I like it as the base for a brunch dish, with crushed avocado, crispy bacon, fried eggs and a chipotle chilli sauce. Leftover bread is ideal in a panzanella-style salad.
The process of making a starter dough extends the fermentation time, leading to deeper, more complex flavours. Fresh yeast is, to my mind, preferable if you can find it, but if not then use half the quantity of dried active yeast hydrated in the same way as described for fresh.
NOTE: Start this recipe 24 hours ahead