From June into mid-July, marsh samphire, sometimes called sea asparagus, is in season.
The name derives from Saint Pierre (St Peter), the patron saint of fishermen, due to samphire’s close connection with the sea. Unsurprisingly, it’s one of the finest seasonal accompaniments to fish (including those mackerel we caught in the June chapter) and other seafood. Growing in our salt marshes and estuaries, its small, cactus-like shoots are succulent and crunchy, with a salty tang, picked up from the sea air.
Foraging for marsh samphire is easy and you’ll find it in large beds in flat, muddy areas near to many coastlines. Just snip the top off fresh, young shoots. Gather only as much as you need and never pull up the whole plant (in common with other estuary plants, samphire roots help stabilize these valuable coastal ecosystems).
There is a second, less common plant called rock samphire, which is a completely different species. Its season starts slightly earlier in the summer – around May. But there’s good reason for less experienced foragers not to go looking for this variety and the clue is in the name. It grows on rocky sea cliffs. Shakespeare’s King Lear famously refers to the ‘dreadful trade’ of collecting rock samphire because of the dangers that collectors faced hanging from the rock faces.
You’ll occasionally find both kinds in delicatessens, pickled – they make for a crunchy, vinegary treat. But, during the season, you’re most likely to find fresh marsh samphire next to the cold slab in your local fishmonger’s. To cook it, just steam or boil (without salt) for a couple of minutes, then top with some melted butter or a light olive oil.