The discovery of plump, darkest-purple blackberries in a September hedgerow can transform a genteel country walk into a juice-splattered scoffing session. They’re probably most families’ earliest experience of foraging and, whether you’re in town or the countryside, you’re certain to have some growing within a short stroll of home at this time of year.
Of course, you risk the odd thorny scratch when collecting blackberries, but they should be worn as badges of honour – it’s unavoidable if you want to reach those truly prize specimens.
The juiciest berries (and those that ripen earliest) are usually the ones at the tip of each stem, with those further down ripening as the month progresses. If possible, take fruits above waist height (to avoid any tainted by animals) and, especially if you’re picking along a busy roadside, it’s worth a quick rinse before tucking in. (As with July’s raspberries and any other soft fruits, wash them gently as it is easy to damage the ripest berries under a high-pressure tap.)
Blackberries start to spoil quickly so are best eaten on the day they are picked. However, unlike some other soft fruits, they do freeze reasonably well. If you manage a bumper haul and are planning to make jam or crumble at a later date, spread the berries out on a baking tray and freeze them before bagging up.
According to folklore, Michaelmas (the Feast of St Michael) is the last day that blackberries should be picked. It was said that, because Michael kicked Lucifer out of heaven, the devil spits (or worse) on the fruits and they will soon be spoiled or even poisonous. Michaelmas now falls on 29 September but in the old calendar it was 10 October, and while, of course, they never turn toxic, the fruits do tend to be past their best by mid-autumn. Because of this, it’s also traditional to end a Michaelmas feast with a pie made with the last blackberries of the season.
Try: Blackberry and caramelized apple trifle (p. 213)