The last recipe in this section is one of my most tried-and-trusted, if rather unimaginatively named, favorites. Perhaps it should be called “one way with lentils,” as there are various. This, however, is the way I cook lentils as a side dish to serve under sausages, slices of rudely pink cotechino, a small wheel of baked goat’s cheese, or a fried egg. It really is worth seeking out good lentils, such as Castelluccio; they become soft and gently floury, which means they will absorb all the other flavors but retain their lentil identity.
You do have to keep an eye on the lentils as they cook, as you want them to absorb all the water, but not dry out. If the pan looks dry, you can add a little more water. The final panful shouldn’t be soupy, but it should ripple a little like risotto, and the lentils will of course thicken a little as they sit. Working on the principle that these lentils are delicious and almost better the next day (keep them in the fridge, pull them out an hour before you need them, and reheat them gently with a little more water), this is a double quantity for 4.
serves 8
1 onion
1 carrot
1 celery stalk
1 leek
2 garlic cloves
4–6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2½ cups small brown lentils
salt and freshly ground black pepper
a handful of finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
Finely chop the onion, carrot, celery, leek, and garlic. Coat a large, heavy-bottomed frying or sauté pan with olive oil and heat over medium-low heat. Add the chopped vegetables and cook very gently until they are soft, but not colored.
Pick over the lentils to check for tiny stones, then rinse them and add them to the pan, stirring for a minute or two so that each lentil glistens with oil. Cover them with water (the water should come about 1 inch above the lentils), bring to a boil, and reduce the heat to a simmer. Cook the lentils, stirring occasionally, keeping a beady eye out and tasting often, until they are tender but not squishy. They should still have lentil integrity and the water should have been absorbed. If the pan seems dry, add a little more water. This will take 25–40 minutes, depending on the lentils.
Season them generously with salt and pepper, and stir in the chopped parsley and another tablespoon or 2 of olive oil for shine.