Published by The Mountaineers Books 1001 SW Klickitat Way, Suite 201 Seattle, WA 98134

© 2000 by Peter Gillman Ltd.

All rights reserved

First North American edition: first printing 2000, second printing 2001

No part of this book may be reproduced in any form, or by any electronic, mechanical, or other means, without permission in writing from the publisher.

Manufactured in the United States of America

Project Editor: Kathleen Cubley

Design and typography by Amy Winchester

Cover design by Helen Cherullo

Maps by ML Design

Cover photograph: George Mallory, 1911. (Photo by Duncan Grant © Henrietta Garnett/Tate Gallery)

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data on file

ISBN: 0-89886-741-X (cloth)

ISBN: 0-89886-751-7 (paper)

Printed on recycled paper