WELCOME TO THE FLORIDA KEYS

TOP REASONS TO GO

John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park: A perfect introduction to the Florida Keys, this nature reserve offers snorkeling, diving, camping, and kayaking. An underwater highlight is the massive Christ of the Deep statue.

Viewing the Underwater World: Whether you scuba dive, snorkel, or ride a glass-bottom boat, don’t miss gazing at the coral reef and its colorful denizens.

Sunset at Mallory Square: Sure, it’s touristy, but just once while you’re here, you’ve got to witness the circuslike atmosphere of this nightly celebration.

Duval crawl: Shop, eat, drink, repeat. Key West’s Duval Street and the nearby streets make a good day’s worth of window-shopping and people-watching.

Getting on the water: From angling for trophy-size fish to zipping out to the Dry Tortugas, a boat trip is in your future. It’s really the whole point of the Keys.

GETTING ORIENTED

The Florida Keys are the dribble of islands off the peninsula’s southern tip. From Miami International Airport, Key Largo is a 56-mile drive via the Florida Turnpike and U.S. 1. The rest of the Keys—Islamorada, Marathon, Bahia Honda Key, and Big Pine Key—fall in succession for the 85 miles between Key Largo and Key West along the Overseas Highway. At their north end, the Florida Keys front Florida Bay, part of Everglades National Park. The Middle and Lower keys front the Gulf of Mexico; the Atlantic Ocean borders the length of the chain on its eastern shores.

The Upper Keys. As the doorstep to the islands’ coral reefs and blithe spirit, the Upper Keys introduce all that’s sporting and sea-oriented about the Keys. They stretch from Key Largo to the Long Key Channel (MM 105–65).

The Middle Keys. Centered on the town of Marathon, the Middle Keys hold most of the chain’s historic and natural attractions outside of Key West. They go from Conch (pronounced konk ) Key through Marathon to the south side of the Seven Mile Bridge, including Pigeon Key (MM 65–40).

The Lower Keys. Pressure drops another notch in this laid-back part of the region, where key-deer viewing and fishing reign supreme. The Lower Keys go from Little Duck Key west through Big Coppitt Key (MM 40–9).

Key West. The ultimate in Florida Keys craziness, this party town isn’t for the closed-minded or those seeking a quiet retreat. The Key West area encompasses MM 9–0.

Updated by Jill Martin

Your Keys experience begins on your 18-mile drive south on “The Stretch,” a portion of U.S. 1 with a specially colored blue median that takes you from Florida City to Key Largo. The real magic begins at mile marker 113, where the Florida Keys Scenic Highway begins. As the only All-American Road in Florida, it is a destination unto itself, one that crosses 42 bridges over water, including the Seven Mile Bridge—with its stunning vistas—and ends in Key West. Look for crocodiles, alligators, and bald eagles along the way.

Key West has a Mardi Gras mood with Fantasy Festival, a Hemingway look-alike contest, and the occasional threat to secede from the Union. It’s an island whose eclectic natives, known as “Conchs,” mingle well with visitors (of the spring-break variety as well as those seeking to escape reality for a while) on this scenic, sometimes raucous 4×2-mile island paradise.

Although life elsewhere in the island chain isn’t near as offbeat, it is as diverse. Overflowing bursts of bougainvillea, shimmering waters, and mangrove-lined islands can be admired throughout. The one thing most visitors don’t admire much in the Keys are their beaches. They’re not many, and they’re not what you’d expect. The reason? The coral reef. It breaks up the waves and prevents sand from being dumped on the shores. That’s why the beaches are mostly rough sand, as it’s crushed coral. Think of it as a trade-off: the Keys have the only living coral reef in the United States, but that reef prevents miles of shimmering sands from ever arriving.

In season, a river of traffic gushes southwest on this highway. But that doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy the ride as you cruise along the islands. Gaze over the silvery blue-and-green Atlantic and its living coral reef, with Florida Bay, the Gulf of Mexico, and the backcountry on your right (the Keys extend southwest from the mainland). At a few points the ocean and gulf are as much as 10 miles apart; in most places, however, they’re from 1 to 4 miles apart, and on the narrowest landfill islands they’re separated only by the road.

While the views can be mesmerizing, to appreciate the Keys you need to get off the highway, especially in more developed regions like Key Largo, Islamorada, and Marathon. Once you do, rent a boat, anchor, and then fish, swim, or marvel at the sun, sea, and sky. Or visit one of the many sandbars, which are popular places to float the day away. Ocean side, dive or snorkel spectacular coral reefs or pursue grouper, blue marlin, mahimahi, and other deepwater game fish. Along Florida Bay’s coastline, kayak to secluded islands through mangrove forests, or seek out the bonefish, snapper, snook, and tarpon that lurk in the shallow grass flats and mangrove roots of the backcountry.

PLANNING

WHEN TO GO

In high season, from mid-December through mid-April, traffic is inevitably heavy. From November to mid-December, crowds are thinner, the weather is superlative, and hotels and shops drastically reduce their prices. Summer is a second high season, especially among families, Europeans, bargain-seekers, and lobster divers.

Florida is rightly called the Sunshine State, but it could also be dubbed the “Humidity State.” From June through September, 90% humidity levels are not uncommon. Thankfully, the weather in the Keys is more moderate than in mainland Florida. Temperatures can be 10°F cooler during the summer and up to 10°F warmer during the winter. The Keys also get substantially less rain than mainland Florida, mostly in quick downpours on summer afternoons. In hurricane season, June through November, the Keys get their fair share of warnings; pay heed, and evacuate earlier rather than later, when flights and automobile traffic get backed up.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

AIR TRAVEL

About 450,000 passengers use Key West International Airport (EYW) each year; its most recent renovation includes a beach where travelers can catch their last blast of rays after clearing security. Because direct flights to Key West are few, many prefer flying into Miami International Airport (MIA) and driving the 110-mile Overseas Highway (aka U.S. 1).

BOAT AND FERRY TRAVEL

Key West Express operates air-conditioned ferries between the Key West Terminal (Caroline and Grinnell streets) and Marco Island and Fort Myers Beach. The trip takes at least four hours each way and costs $95 one way, from $125 round-trip (a $3 convenience fee is added to all online bookings). Ferries depart from Fort Myers Beach at 8:30 am and from Key West at 6 pm. The Marco Island ferry departs at 8:30 am (the return trip leaves Key West at 5 pm). A photo ID is required for each passenger. Advance reservations are recommended.

Boaters can travel to and through the Keys either along the Intracoastal Waterway (5-foot draft limitation) through Card, Barnes, and Blackwater sounds and into Florida Bay, or along the deeper Atlantic Ocean route through Hawk Channel, a buoyed passage. Refer to NOAA Nautical Charts Nos. 11451, 11445, and 11441. The Keys are full of marinas that welcome transient visitors, but they don’t have enough slips for everyone. Make reservations in advance, and ask about channel and dockage depth—many marinas are quite shallow.

Contact Key West Express. 100 Grinnell St., Key West 239/463–5733 in Key West , 239/463–5733 in Fort Myers Beach , 239/463–5733 in Marco Island www.seakeywestexpress.net .

BUS TRAVEL

Keys Transportation provides private airport transfers to any destination in the Keys from either MIA or FLL. Prices start at $49 per person for transportation to Key Largo and get more expensive as you move south. Call or email for a price quote.

Greyhound Lines runs a special Keys shuttle twice a day (times depend on the day of the week) from Miami International Airport (departing from Concourse E, lower level) and stops throughout the Keys. Fares run from around $25 for Key Largo ( MM 99.6 ) or Islamorada ( Burger King, MM 82 ) to around $45 for Key West ( 3535 S. Roosevelt, Key West International Airport ).

Keys Shuttle runs scheduled service six times a day in 15-passenger vans (9 passengers maximum) between Miami and Fort Lauderdale airports and Key West with stops throughout the Keys for $60 to $90 per person sharing rides.

SuperShuttle charges $191 for up to two passengers for trips to the Upper Keys; to go farther, you must book an entire 11-person van, which costs $402. For a trip to the airport, place your request 24 hours in advance.

Contacts Greyhound. 800/231–2222 www.greyhound.com . Keys Shuttle. 1333 Overseas Hwy., Marathon 888/765–9997 www.keysshuttle.com . Keys Transportation. 305/395–0299 www.keystransportation.com . SuperShuttle. 800/258–3826 www.supershuttle.com .

CAR TRAVEL

By car, from Miami International Airport, follow signs to Coral Gables and Key West, which puts you on LeJeune Road, then Route 836 west. Take the Homestead Extension of Florida’s Turnpike south (toll road), which ends at Florida City and connects to the Overseas Highway (U.S. 1). Tolls from the airport run approximately $3. Payment is collected via SunPass, a prepaid toll program, or with Toll-By-Plate, a system that photographs each vehicle’s license plate and mails a monthly bill for tolls, plus a $2.50 administrative fee, to the vehicle’s registered owner.

Vacationers traveling in their own cars can obtain a mini-SunPass sticker via mail before their trip for $4.99 and receive the cost back in toll credits and discounts. The pass also is available at many major Florida retailers and turnpike service plazas. It works on all Florida toll roads and many bridges. For details on purchasing a mini-SunPass, call or visit the website.

For visitors renting cars in Florida, most major rental companies have programs allowing customers to use the Toll-By-Plate system. Tolls, plus varying service fees, are automatically charged to the credit card used to rent the vehicle (along with a hefty service charge in most cases). For details, including pricing options at participating rental-car agencies, check the program website. Under no circumstances should motorists attempt to stop in high-speed electronic tolling lanes. Travelers can contact Florida’s Turnpike Enterprise for more information about the all-electronic tolling on Florida’s Turnpike.

The alternative from Florida City is Card Sound Road (Route 905A), which has a (cash-only) bridge toll of $1. SunPass isn’t accepted. Continue to the only stop sign and turn right on Route 905, which rejoins the Overseas Highway 31 miles south of Florida City.

Except in Key West, a car is essential for visiting the Keys.

Contacts Florida’s Turnpike Enterprise. 800/749–7453 www.floridasturnpike.com . SunPass. 888/865–5352 www.sunpass.com .

THE MILE MARKER SYSTEM

Getting lost in the Keys is almost impossible once you understand the unique address system. Many addresses are simply given as a mile marker (MM) number. The markers are small, green, rectangular signs along the side of the Overseas Highway (U.S. 1). They begin with MM 126, 1 mile south of Florida City, and end with MM 0, in Key West. Keys residents use the abbreviation BS for the bay side of Overseas Highway and OS for the ocean side. From Marathon to Key West, residents may refer to the bay side as the gulf side.

HOTELS

Throughout the Keys, the types of accommodations are remarkably varied, from 1950s-style motels to cozy inns to luxurious resorts. Most are on or near the ocean, so water sports are popular. Key West’s lodging portfolio includes historic cottages, restored Conch houses, and large resorts. Some larger properties throughout the Keys charge a mandatory daily resort fee, which can cover equipment rental, fitness-center use, and other services. You can expect another 12.5% (or more) in state and county taxes. Some guesthouses and inns don’t welcome children, and many don’t permit smoking.

RESTAURANTS

Seafood rules in the Keys, which is full of chef-owned restaurants with not-too-fancy food. Many restaurants serve cuisine that reflects the proximity of the Bahamas and Caribbean (you’ll see the term “Floribbean” on many menus). Tropical fruits figure prominently—especially on the beverage side of the menu. Florida spiny lobster should be local and fresh from August to March, and stone crabs from mid-October to mid-May. And don’t dare leave the islands without sampling conch, be it in a fritter or in ceviche. Keep an eye out for authentic key lime pie—yellow custard in a graham-cracker crust. If it’s green, just say “no.” Note: Particularly in Key West and particularly during spring break, the more affordable and casual restaurants can get loud and downright rowdy, with young visitors often more interested in drinking than eating. Live music contributes to the decibel levels. If you’re more of the quiet, intimate-dining type, avoid such overly exuberant scenes by eating early or choosing a restaurant where the bar isn’t the main focus.

Hotel and restaurant reviews have been shortened. For full information, visit Fodors.com .

VISITOR INFORMATION

There are several separate tourism offices in the Florida Keys, and you can use Visit Florida’s website ( www.visitflorida.com ) for general information and referrals to local agencies. See individual chapters for local visitor information centers.

In addition to traditional tourist information, many divers will be interested in the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary, which has its headquarters in Key West and has another office in Key Largo.

Contact Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary. 305/809–4700 floridakeys.noaa.gov .

THE UPPER KEYS

Diving and snorkeling rule in the Upper Keys, thanks to North America’s only living coral barrier reef that runs a few miles off the Atlantic coast. Divers of all skill levels benefit from accessible dive sites and an established tourism infrastructure. Fishing is another huge draw, especially around Islamorada, known for its sportfishing in both deep offshore waters and in the backcountry. Offshore islands accessible only by boat are popular destinations for kayakers. In short, if you don’t like the water you might get bored here.

But true nature lovers won’t feel shortchanged. Within 1½ miles of the bay coast lie the mangrove trees and sandy shores of Everglades National Park, where naturalists lead tours of one of the world’s few saltwater forests. Here you’ll see endangered manatees, curious dolphins, and other marine creatures. Although the number of birds has dwindled since John James Audubon captured their beauty on canvas, bird-watchers will find plenty to see, including the rare Everglades snail kite, bald eagles, ospreys, and a colorful array of egrets and herons. At sunset flocks take flight as they gather to find their night’s roost, adding a swirl of activity to an otherwise quiet time of day.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

Keys Transportation provides private airport transfers to any destination in the Keys from either MIA or FLL. Prices start at $49 per person for transportation to Key Largo and get more expensive as you move south. Call or email for a price quote. SuperShuttle charges $165 to $185 for two passengers for trips from Miami International Airport to Key Largo; reservations are required. For a trip to the airport, place your request 24 hours in advance. For more information, see Getting Here and Around: Bus Travel.

KEY LARGO

56 miles south of Miami International Airport.

The first of the Upper Keys reachable by car, 30-mile-long Key Largo is the largest island in the chain. Key Largo—named Cayo Largo (“Long Key”) by the Spanish—makes a great introduction to the region. This is the gateway to the Keys, and an evening of fresh seafood and views of the sunset on the water will get you in the right state of mind.

The history of Largo reads much like that of the rest of the Keys: a succession of native people, pirates, wreckers, and developers. The first settlement on Key Largo was named Planter, back in the days of pineapple, and later, key lime plantations. For a time it was a convenient shipping port, but when the railroad arrived Planter died on the vine. Today three communities—North Key Largo and Key Largo as well as the separately incorporated city of Tavernier—make up the whole of Key Largo.

What’s there to do on Key Largo besides gaze at the sunset? Not much if you’re not into diving or snorkeling. Nobody comes to Key Largo without visiting John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park, one of the jewels of the state park system. Water-sports enthusiasts head to the adjacent Key Largo National Marine Sanctuary, which encompasses about 190 square miles of coral reefs, sea-grass beds, and mangrove estuaries. If you’ve never tried diving, Key Largo is the perfect place to learn. Dozens of companies will be more than happy to show you the ropes.

Fishing is the other big draw, and world records are broken regularly in the waters around the Upper Keys. There are plenty of charter companies to help you find the big ones and teach you how to hook the elusive bonefish, sometimes known as the ghost fish.

On land, Key Largo provides all the conveniences of a major resort town, including restaurants that will cook your catch or prepare their own creations with inimitable style. You’ll notice that some unusual specialties pop up on the menu, such as cracked conch, spiny lobster, and stone crab. Don’t pass up a chance to try the local delicacies, especially the key lime pie.

Most businesses are lined up along U.S. 1, the four-lane highway that runs down the middle of the island. Cars whiz past at all hours—something to remember when you’re booking a room. Most lodgings are on the highway, so you’ll want to be as far back as possible. At MM 95, look for the mural painted in 2011 to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the railroad to the Keys.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

Key Largo is 56 miles south of Miami International Airport, with its mile markers ranging from 106 to 91. The island runs northeast–southwest, with the Overseas Highway, divided by a median most of the way, running down the center. If the highway is your only glimpse of the island, you’re likely to feel barraged by its tacky commercial side. Make a point of driving Route 905 in North Key Largo and down side streets to get a better feel for it.

VISITOR INFORMATION

In addition to traditional tourist information, many divers will be interested in the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary, which has an office in Key Largo.

Contacts Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary. 305/809–4700 floridakeys.noaa.gov . Key Largo Chamber of Commerce. MM 106 BS, 10600 Overseas Hwy. 305/451–4747 , 800/822–1088 www.keylargochamber.org .

EXPLORING

TOP ATTRACTIONS

Dagny Johnson Key Largo Hammock Botanical State Park. FAMILY American crocodiles, mangrove cuckoos, white-crowned pigeons, Schaus swallowtail butterflies, mahogany mistletoe, wild cotton, and 100 other rare critters and plants inhabit these 2,400 acres, sandwiched between Crocodile Lake National Wildlife Refuge and the waters of Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park. The park is also a user-friendly place to explore the largest remaining stand of the vast West Indian tropical hardwood hammock and mangrove wetland that once covered most of the Keys. Interpretive signs describe many of the tropical tree species along a wide, 1-mile, paved road (2 miles round-trip) that invites walking and biking. A new, unpaved, extended loop trail can add 1–2 miles to your walk. There are also more than 6 additional miles of nature trails, most of which are accessible to both bikes and wheelchairs with a permit, easily obtainable from John Pennekamp State Park. Pets are welcome if on a leash no longer than 6 feet. You’ll also find restrooms, information kiosks, and picnic tables. ■ TIP → Rangers recommend not visiting when it’s raining as the trees can drip poisonous sap. Rte. 905 OS, ½ mile north of Overseas Hwy., North Key Largo 305/451–1202 www.floridastateparks.org/​keylargohammock $2.50 (exact change needed) .

Dolphins Plus Bayside. FAMILY This educational program begins at the facility’s bay-side lagoon with a get-acquainted session from a platform. After that, you slip into the water for some frolicking with your new dolphin pals. Options range from a shallow-water swim to a hands-on structured swim with a dolphin. You can also spend the day shadowing a trainer for a hefty $695 fee. MM 101.9 BS, 101900 Overseas Hwy. 305/451–4060 , 877/365–2683 www.dolphinsplus.com $10 admission only; interactive programs from $150 .

Dolphins Plus Oceanside. FAMILY A sister property to Dolphins Plus Bayside, this Dolphins Plus offers some of the same programs, and the age requirement is lower. The cheapest option, a shallow-water program, begins with a one-hour briefing, after which you enter the water up to your waist to interact with the dolphins. You only get to see them: participants can snorkel but are not allowed to touch the dolphins. Prefer to stay mostly dry? Opt to paint with a dolphin, or get a dolphin “kiss.” For tactile interaction (fin tows, for example), sign up for the structured swim program, which is more expensive. MM 99, 31 Corrine Pl. 305/451–1993 , 866/860–7946 www.dolphinsplus.com Programs from $165 .

Florida Keys Wild Bird Center. FAMILY Have a nose-to-beak encounter with ospreys, hawks, herons, and other unreleasable birds at this bird rehabilitation center. The birds live in spacious screened enclosures along a boardwalk running through some of the best waterfront real estate in the Keys. Rehabilitated birds are set free, but about 30 have become permanent residents. Free birds—especially pelicans and egrets—come to visit every day for a free lunch from the center’s staff. A short nature trail runs into the mangrove forest (bring bug spray May to October). A new addition is the interactive education center, now open about 1½ miles south. MM 93.6 BS, 93600 Overseas Hwy., Tavernier 305/852–4486 www.keepthemflying.org Free, donations accepted .

Jacobs Aquatic Center. FAMILY Take the plunge at one of three swimming pools: an eight-lane, 25-meter lap pool with two diving boards; a 3- to 4-foot-deep pool accessible to people with mobility challenges; and an interactive children’s play pool with a waterslide, pirate ship, waterfall, and sloping zero entry instead of steps. Because so few of the motels in Key Largo have pools, it remains a popular destination for visiting families. Key Largo Community Park, 320 Laguna Ave., at St. Croix Pl. 305/453–7946 www.jacobsaquaticcenter.org $12 ($2 discount weekdays) .

BEACHES

Fodor’s Choice John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park. FAMILY This state park is on everyone’s list for easy access to the best diving and snorkeling in Florida. The underwater treasure encompasses 78 nautical square miles of coral reefs and sea-grass beds. It lies adjacent to the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary, which contains 40 of the 52 species of coral in the Atlantic Reef System and nearly 600 varieties of fish, from the colorful parrot fish to the demure cocoa damselfish. Whatever you do, get in the water. Snorkeling and diving trips ($30 and $75, respectively, equipment extra) and glass-bottom-boat rides to the reef ($24) are available, weather permitting. One of the most popular snorkel trips is to see Christ of the Deep, the 2-ton underwater statue of Jesus. The park also has nature trails, two man-made beaches, picnic shelters, a snack bar, and a campground. Amenities: food and drink; parking (fee); showers; toilets; water sports. Best for: snorkeling; swimming. MM 102.5 OS, 102601 Overseas Hwy. 305/451–1202 for park , 305/451–6300 for excursions www.pennekamppark.com , www.floridastateparks.org/​pennekamp $4 for 1 person in vehicle, $8 for 2–8 people, $2 for pedestrians and cyclists or extra people (plus a 50¢ per-person county surcharge) .

WHERE TO EAT

Alabama Jack’s. $ SEAFOOD Calories be damned—the conch fritters here are heaven on a plate. Don’t expect the traditional, golf-ball-size spheres of dough; these are an unusual, mountainous, free-form creation of fried, loaded-with-flavor perfection. Known for: heavenly conch fritters; unique setting; weekend afternoon jam sessions. Average main: $11 58000 Card Sound Rd. 305/248–8741 .

Ballyhoo’s. $$$ SEAFOOD Occupying a 1930s Conch house with outdoor seating right alongside U.S. 1 under the sea grape trees, this local favorite is all about the fish (including the nautical decor). Yellowtail snapper, one of the moistest, most flavorful local fish, is served 10 different ways on the all-day menu, including blackened, stuffed with crab, and Parmesan crusted. Known for: all-you-can-eat specials like Friday fish dinners and in-season stone crab; Harvey’s fish sandwich. Average main: $21 MM 97.8 median, 97800 Overseas Hwy. 305/852–0822 www.ballyhoosrestaurant.com .

Fodor’s Choice Buzzard’s Roost Grill and Pub. $$$ SEAFOOD The views are nice at this waterfront restaurant but the food is what gets your attention. Burgers, fish tacos, and seafood baskets are lunch faves. Known for: marina views; daily chef’s specials. Average main: $21 Garden Cove Marina, 21 Garden Cove Dr. 305/453–3746 www.buzzardsroo­stkeylargo.com .

Chad’s Deli & Bakery. $ AMERICAN It’s a deli! It’s a bakery! It’s a pasta place! It’s also where the locals go. Known for: homemade soups and chowders; eight varieties of supersized homemade cookies. Average main: $10 MM 92.3 BS, 92330 Overseas Hwy., Tavernier 305/853–5566 www.chadsdeli.com .

The Fish House. $$$ SEAFOOD Restaurants not on the water have to produce the highest quality food to survive in the Keys. That’s how the Fish House has succeeded since the 1980s—so much so that it built the Fish House Encore (a fancier version) next door to accommodate fans. Known for: smoked fish appetizer; excellent key lime pie; fresh-as-can-be seafood. Average main: $21 MM 102.4 OS, 102341 Overseas Hwy. 305/451–4665 www.fishhouse.com Closed Sept.

The Fish House Encore. $$$ SEAFOOD To accommodate the crowds that gather at the Fish House, the owners opened this place with similar but more refined cuisine ranging from sushi to steak. It’s come into its own as a more formal dining venue than its sister establishment. Known for: formal dining venue; off-season all-you-can-eat specials; live piano music Thursday–Sunday. Average main: $27 MM 102.3 OS, 102341 Overseas Hwy. 305/451–4665 , 305/451–0650 www.fishhouse.com Closed Tues. and Oct. No lunch .

Harriette’s Restaurant. $ AMERICAN If you’re looking for comfort food—like melt-in-your-mouth biscuits the size of a salad plate—try this refreshing throwback. Since the early 1980s, owner Harriette Mattson has been here to personally greet guests who come for the to-die-for omelets and old-fashioned hotcakes with sausage or bacon. Known for: breakfast and lunch that’s worth the wait; 13 muffin flavors. Average main: $8 MM 95.7 BS, 95710 Overseas Hwy. 305/852–8689 No dinner American Express not accepted .

Jimmy Johnson’s Big Chill. $$ SEAFOOD Owned by former NFL coach Jimmy Johnson, this waterfront establishment offers three entertaining experiences, and all are big winners. You’ll find the best sports bar in the Upper Keys, complete with the coach’s Super Bowl trophies; a main restaurant with all-glass indoor seating and a waterfront deck; and an enormous outdoor tiki bar with entertainment seven nights a week. Known for: great sports bar; fantastic bay views; tuna nachos. Average main: $19 MM 104 BS, 104000 Overseas Hwy. 305/453–9066 www.jjsbigchill.com .

Key Largo Conch House. $$ AMERICAN Tucked into the trees along the Overseas Highway, this Victorian-style home (family owned since 2004) and its true-to-the-Keys style of cooking is worth seeking out—at least the Food Network and the Travel Channel have thought so in the past. The Old South veranda and patio seating are ideal for winter dining, but indoors the seating is tighter. Known for: serving lionfish; all-season outside dining. Average main: $16 MM 100.2, 100211 Overseas Hwy. 305/453–4844 www.keylargoconchhouse.com .

Mrs. Mac’s Kitchen. $$ SEAFOOD FAMILY Townies pack the counters and booths at this tiny eatery, where license plates are stuck on the walls and made into chandeliers, for everything from blackened prime rib to crab cakes. Every night is themed including Meatloaf Monday, Italian Wednesday, and Seafood Sensation (offered Friday and Saturday). Known for: Champagne breakfast; nightly themed dinners. Average main: $17 MM 99.4 BS, 99336 Overseas Hwy. 305/451–3722 , 305/451–6227 www.mrsmacskitchen.com Closed Sun.

Snapper’s. $$ SEAFOOD In a lively, mangrove-ringed, waterfront setting, Snapper’s has live music, Sunday brunch (including a build-your-own Bloody Mary bar), killer rum drinks, and seating alongside the fishing dock. “You hook ‘em, we cook ‘em” is the motto here but you have to clean your own fish and dinner is $14 for a single diner, $15 per person family-style meal with a mix of preparations when you provide the fish. Known for: you hook, we cook; nightlife; fresh yellowtail. Average main: $17 MM 94.5 OS, 139 Seaside Ave. 305/852–5956 www.snapperskeylargo.com .

Sundowners. $$$ AMERICAN If it’s a clear night and you can snag a reservation, this restaurant will treat you to a sherbet-hue sunset over Florida Bay. The food is also excellent: try the key lime seafood, a happy combo of sautéed shrimp, lobster, and lump crabmeat swimming in a tangy sauce spiked with Tabasco served over penne or rice. Known for: great sunset viewing; Friday-night fish fry. Average main: $22 MM 104 BS, 103900 Overseas Hwy. 305/451–4502 sundownerskeylargo.com .

WHERE TO STAY

Amy Slate’s Amoray Dive Resort. $ RESORT You can read this hotel’s name either as “a moray” (referring to the moray eels you’ll encounter on the reef) or “amore” (Italian for love, which calls to mind the place’s romantic atmosphere), and you’ll understand the place’s dual charms. Pros: top-notch dive operation; free use of snorkel equipment. Cons: noise from highway; minimum stays during peak times. Rooms from: $159 MM 104.2 BS, 104250 Overseas Hwy. 305/451–3595 , 800/426–6729 www.amoray.com 23 rooms, 8 apartments No meals .

Azul del Mar. $$ B&B/INN The dock points the way to many beautiful sunsets at this no-smoking, adults-only boutique hotel, which Karol Marsden (an ad exec) and her husband Dominic (a travel photographer) have transformed from a run-down mom-and-pop place into a waterfront gem. Pros: great garden; good location; sophisticated design. Cons: small beach; high priced; minimum stays during holidays. Rooms from: $299 MM 104.3 BS, 104300 Overseas Hwy. 305/451–0337 , 888/253–2985 www.azulkeylargo.com 6 units No meals .

Coconut Bay Resort & Bay Harbor Lodge. $ RESORT Some 200 feet of waterfront is the main attraction at these side-by-side sister properties that offer a choice between smaller rooms and larger separate cottages. Pros: bay front; neatly kept gardens; walking distance to restaurants; free use of kayaks, paddleboat, and paddleboards. Cons: a bit dated; small sea-walled sand beach. Rooms from: $195 MM 97.7 BS, 97702 Overseas Hwy. 305/852–1625 , 800/385–0986 www.coconutbaykeylargo.com 21 units Breakfast .

Coconut Palm Inn. $$ B&B/INN You’d never find this waterfront haven unless someone told you it was there, as it’s tucked into a residential neighborhood beneath towering palms and native gumbo limbos. Pros: secluded; quiet; sophisticated feel. Cons: front desk closes early each evening; no access to ice machine when staff leaves; breakfast is ho-hum. Rooms from: $299 MM 92 BS, 198 Harborview Dr., via Jo-Jean Way off Overseas Hwy., Tavernier 305/852–3017 www.coconutpalminn.com 20 rooms Breakfast .

Dove Creek Lodge. $$ B&B/INN With its sherbet-hued rooms and plantation-style furnishings, these tropical-style units (19 in all) range in size from simple lodge rooms to luxury two-bedroom suites. Pros: luxurious rooms; walk to Snapper’s restaurant; complimentary kayaks and Wi-Fi. Cons: no beach; some find the music from next door bothersome. Rooms from: $269 MM 94.5 OS, 147 Seaside Ave. 305/852–6200 , 800/401–0057 www.dovecreeklodge.com 19 rooms Breakfast .

Fodor’s Choice Hilton Key Largo Resort. $$ RESORT Nestled within a hardwood hammock (localese for uplands habitat where hardwood trees such as live oak grow) near the southern border of Everglades National Park, this sprawling, 13-acre resort underwent a $25 million renovation in 2017 without skipping a beat. Pros: nice nature trail on bay side; pretty pools with waterfalls; awesome trees; bicycles available for rent. Cons: some rooms overlook the parking lot; pools near the highway; expensive per-night resort fee. Rooms from: $269 MM 97 BS, 97000 Overseas Hwy. 305/852–5553 , 888/871–3437 www.keylargoresort.com 205 rooms No meals .

Island Bay Resort. $$ RENTAL When Mike and Carol Shipley took over this off-the-beaten-path resort in 2000, they revamped the 10 bay-side cottages, improved the landscaping, and added touches such as hammocks and Adirondack chairs that make you feel like this is your own personal tropical playground. Pros: on the water; sunset views. Cons: most units are small; no pool; lacks on-site amenities. Rooms from: $249 92530 Overseas Hwy. 305/852–4087 www.islandbayresort.com 10 units No meals .

Fodor’s Choice Kona Kai Resort, Gallery & Botanic Gardens. $$ RESORT Brilliantly colored bougainvillea, coconut palm, and guava trees—and a botanical garden of other rare species—make this 2-acre adult hideaway one of the prettiest places to stay in the Keys. Pros: free custom tours of botanical gardens for guests; free use of sports equipment; knowledgeable staff. Cons: expensive; some rooms are very close together. Rooms from: $299 MM 97.8 BS, 97802 Overseas Hwy. 305/852–7200 , 800/365–7829 www.konakairesort.com 13 rooms No meals .

Marriott’s Key Largo Bay Beach Resort. $$$ RESORT FAMILY This 17-acre bay-side resort has plenty of diversions, from diving to parasailing to a day spa. Pros: lots of activities; free covered parking; dive shop on property; free Wi-Fi. Cons: rooms facing highway can be noisy; thin walls. Rooms from: $359 MM 103.8 BS, 103800 Overseas Hwy. 305/453–0000 , 866/849–3753 www.marriottkeylargo.com 153 rooms No meals .

The Pelican. $ HOTEL This 1950s throwback is reminiscent of the days when parents packed the kids into the station wagon and headed to no-frills seaside motels, complete with old-fashioned fishing off the dock. Pros: free use of kayaks and a canoe; well-maintained dock; reasonable rates. Cons: some small rooms; basic accommodations and amenities. Rooms from: $159 MM 99.3, 99340 Overseas Hwy. 305/451–3576 , 877/451–3576 www.hungrypelican.com 17 rooms, 4 efficiencies Breakfast .

Fodor’s Choice Playa Largo Resort and Spa, Autograph Collection. $$$ RESORT This luxurious retreat, the first new hotel in Key Largo in over 21 years, is nestled on 14½ bay-front acres. Pros: comfortable rooms, most with balconies; soft-sand beach; excellent service; Playa Largo Kids Club. Cons: $25 a day resort fee; pricey spa; $18 daily charge for valet parking. Rooms from: $399 97450 Overseas Hwy. 305/853–1001 playalargoresort.com 178 units No meals No credit cards .

Popp’s Motel. $ HOTEL Stylized metal herons mark the entrance to this 50-year-old family-run motel. Pros: beach; intimate feel; discounts for multiple-night stays. Cons: limited amenities; worn, outdated interiors. Rooms from: $149 MM 95.5 BS, 95500 Overseas Hwy. 305/852–5201 , 877/852–5201 www.poppsmotel.com 9 units No meals .

Seafarer Resort and Beach. $ HOTEL If you’re looking for modern and updated, this very basic, budget lodging isn’t it. Pros: sandy beach; complimentary kayak use; cheap rates. Cons: can hear road noise in some rooms; some complaints about cleanliness. Rooms from: $139 MM 97.6 BS, 97684 Overseas Hwy. 305/852–5349 www.seafarerkeylargo.com 15 units No meals .

NIGHTLIFE

The semiweekly Keynoter (Wednesday and Saturday), weekly Reporter (Thursday), and Friday through Sunday editions of the Miami Herald are the best sources of information on entertainment and nightlife. Daiquiri bars, tiki huts, and seaside shacks pretty well summarize Key Largo’s bar scene.

Breezers Tiki Bar & Grille. Since its total makeover in 2016, you can now mingle with locals over cocktails and catch amazing sunsets from the comfort of an enclosed, air-conditioned bar. Floor-to-ceiling doors can be opened on cool days and closed on hot days. It’s located at Marriott’s Key Largo Bay Beach Resort. Marriott’s Key Largo Bay Beach Resort, 103800 Overseas Hwy. 305/453–0000 .

Caribbean Club. Walls plastered with Bogart memorabilia remind customers that the classic 1948 Bogart–Bacall flick Key Largo has a connection with this worn watering hole. Although no food is served and the floors are bare concrete, this landmark draws boaters, curious visitors, and local barflies to its humble bar stools and pool tables. But the real magic is around back, where you can grab a seat on the deck and catch a postcard-perfect sunset. Live music draws revelers Thursday through Sunday. MM 104 BS, 104080 Overseas Hwy. 305/451–4466 caribbeanclubkl.com .

SHOPPING

For the most part, shopping is sporadic in Key Largo, with a couple of shopping centers and fewer galleries than you find on the other big islands. If you’re looking to buy scuba or snorkel equipment, you’ll have plenty of choices.

Gallery at Kona Kai. Wander the gallery and get a peek of island life as you admire original works by local artists, as well as works from frequent guests who dabble in a variety of mediums. The exhibits are geared toward the environment and what you might experience while you’re visiting—botanicals, wildlife, sunrises, and sunsets. MM 97.8 BS, 97802 Overseas Hwy. 305/852–7200 www.g-k-k.com .

Fodor’s Choice Key Largo Chocolates. FAMILY Specializing in key lime truffles made with quality Belgian chocolate, this is the only chocolate factory in the Florida Keys. But you’ll find much more than just the finest white-, milk-, and dark-chocolate truffles; try the cupcakes, ice cream, and famous “chocodiles.” The salted turtles, a fan favorite, are worth every calorie. Chocolate classes are also available for kids and adults, and a small gift area showcases local art, jewelry, hot sauces, and other goodies. Look for the bright-green-and-pink building. MM 100 BS, 100471 Overseas Hwy. 305/453–6613 www.keylargochocolates.com .

Key Lime Products. Go into olfactory overload—you’ll find yourself sniffing every single bar of soap and scented candle inside this key lime treasure trove. Take home some key lime juice (supereasy pie-making directions are right on the bottle), marmalade, candies, sauces, even key lime shampoo. Outside, you’ll find a huge selection of wood carvings, pottery, unique patio furniture, and artwork. The fresh fish sandwiches and conch fritters served here are alone worth the stop. MM 95.2 BS, 95231 Overseas Hwy. 305/853–0378 , 800/870–1780 www.keylimeproducts.com .

Randy’s Florida Keys Gift Co. Since 1989, Randy’s has been the place for unique gifts. Owner Randy and his wife Lisa aren’t only fantastic at stocking the store with a plethora of items, they’re also well respected in the community for their generosity and dedication. Stop in and say hello, then browse the tight aisles and loaded shelves filled with key lime candles, books, wood carvings, jewelry, clothing, T-shirts, and eclectic, tropical decor items. This friendly shop prides itself on carrying wares from local craftsmen, and there’s something for every budget. 102421 Overseas Hwy. On U.S. 1, next to the Sandal Factory Outlet 305/453–9229 www.keysmermaid.com .

Shell World. You can find lots of shops in the Keys that sell cheesy souvenirs—snow globes, alligator hats, and shell-encrusted anything. This is the granddaddy of them all. But this sprawling building in the median of Overseas Highway contains much more than the usual tourist trinkets—you’ll find high-end clothing, jewelry, housewares, artwork, and a wide selection of keepsakes, from delightfully tacky to tasteful. MM 97.5, 97600 Overseas Hwy. 305/852–8245 , 888/398–6233 www.shellworldflkeys.com .

SPORTS AND THE OUTDOORS

BOATING

Everglades Eco-Tours. FAMILY For over 30 years, Captain Sterling has operated Everglades and Florida Bay ecology tours and more expensive sunset cruises. With his expert guidance, you can see dolphins, manatees, and birds from the casual comfort of his pontoon boat, equipped with PVC chairs. Bring your own food and drinks; each tour has a maximum of six people. Sundowners Restaurant, MM 104 BS, 103900 Overseas Hwy. 305/853–5161 , 888/224–6044 www.captainsterling.com From $59 .

M.V. Key Largo Princess. FAMILY Two-hour glass-bottom-boat trips and more expensive sunset cruises on a luxury 70-foot motor yacht with a 280-square-foot glass viewing area depart from the Holiday Inn docks three times a day. ■ TIP → Purchase tickets online to save big. Holiday Inn, MM 100 OS, 99701 Overseas Hwy. 305/451–4655 , 877/648–8129 www.keylargoprincess.com $35 .

CANOEING AND KAYAKING

Sea kayaking continues to gain popularity in the Keys. You can paddle for a few hours or the whole day, on your own or with a guide. Some outfitters even offer overnight trips. The Florida Keys Overseas Paddling Trail, part of a statewide system, runs from Key Largo to Key West. You can paddle the entire distance, 110 miles on the Atlantic side, which takes 9 to 10 days. The trail also runs the chain’s length on the bay side, which is a longer route.

Coral Reef Park Co. At John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park, this operator has a fleet of canoes and kayaks for gliding around the 2½-mile mangrove trail or along the coast. Powerboat rentals are also available. MM 102.5 OS, 102601 Overseas Hwy. 305/451–6300 www.pennekamppark.com Rentals from $12 per hr .

Florida Bay Outfitters. Rent canoes, sea kayaks, or Hobie Eclipses (the newest craze) from this company, which sets up self-guided trips on the Florida Keys Paddling Trail, helps with trip planning, and matches equipment to your skill level. It also runs myriad guided tours around Key Largo. Take a full-moon paddle or a one- to seven-day kayak tour to the Everglades, Lignumvitae Key, or Indian Key. MM 104 BS, 104050 Overseas Hwy. 305/451–3018 www.paddlefloridakeys.com From $15 .

FISHING

Private charters and big “head” boats (so named because they charge “by the head”) are great for anglers who don’t have their own vessel.

Sailors Choice. Fishing excursions depart twice daily (half-day trips are cash only), but the company also does private charters. The 65-foot boat leaves from the Holiday Inn docks. Rods, bait, and license are included. Holiday Inn Resort & Marina, MM 100 OS, 99701 Overseas Hwy. 305/451–1802 , 305/451–0041 www.sailorschoic­efishingboat.com From $40 .

SCUBA DIVING AND SNORKELING

Much of what makes the Upper Keys a singular dive destination is variety. Places like Molasses Reef, which begins 3 feet below the surface and descends to 55 feet, have something for everyone from novice snorkelers to experienced divers. The Spiegel Grove, a 510-foot vessel, lies in 130 feet of water, but its upper regions are only 60 feet below the surface. On rough days, Key Largo Undersea Park’s Emerald Lagoon is a popular spot. Expect to pay about $80 to $85 for a two-tank, two-site dive trip with tanks and weights, or $35 to $40 for a two-site snorkel outing. Get big discounts by booking multiple trips.

Amy Slate’s Amoray Dive Resort. This outfit makes diving easy. Stroll down to the full-service dive shop (PADI, TDI, and BSAC certified), then onto a 45-foot catamaran. Certification courses are also offered. MM 104.2 BS, 104250 Overseas Hwy. 305/451–3595 , 800/426–6729 www.amoray.com From $85 .

Conch Republic Divers. Book diving instruction as well as scuba and snorkeling tours of all the wrecks and reefs of the Upper Keys. Two-location dives are the standard, and you’ll pay an extra $15 for tank and weights. MM 90.8 BS, 90800 Overseas Hwy. 305/852–1655 , 800/274–3483 www.conchrepublicdivers.com From $70 .

Coral Reef Park Co. At John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park, this company gives 3½-hour scuba and 2½-hour snorkeling tours of the park. In addition to the great location and the dependability it’s also suited for water adventurers of all levels. MM 102.5 OS, 102601 Overseas Hwy. 305/451–6300 www.pennekamppark.com From $30 .

Horizon Divers. The company has customized diving and snorkeling trips that depart daily aboard a 45-foot catamaran. 105800 Overseas Hwy 305/453–3535 , 800/984–3483 www.horizondivers.com From $50 for snorkeling, from $80 for diving .

Island Ventures. If you like dry, British humor and no crowds, this is the operator for you. It specializes in small groups for snorkeling or dive trips, no more than 10 people per boat. Scuba trips are two tank, two locations, and include tanks and weights; ride-alongs pay just $35. Choose morning or afternoon. Jules Undersea Lodge, 51 Shoreland Dr. 305/451–4957 www.islandventure.com Snorkel trips $50, diving $85 .

Ocean Divers. The PADI five-star facility has been around since 1975 and offers day and night dives, a range of courses, and dive-lodging packages. Two-tank reef dives include tank and weight rental. There are also organized snorkeling trips with equipment. MM 100 OS, 522 Caribbean Dr. 305/451–1113 , 800/451–1113 www.oceandivers.com Snorkel trips from $30, diving from $80 .

Fodor’s Choice Quiescence Diving Services. This operator sets itself apart in two ways: it limits groups to six to ensure personal attention and offers both two-dive day and night dives, as well as twilight dives when sea creatures are most active. There are also organized snorkeling excursions. MM 103.5 BS, 103680 Overseas Hwy. 305/451–2440 www.quiescence.com Snorkel trips $49, diving from $69 .

ISLAMORADA

Islamorada is between MM 90.5 and 70.

Early settlers named this key after their schooner, Island Home, but to make it sound more romantic they translated it into Spanish: Isla Morada. The Chamber of Commerce prefers to use its literal translation, “Purple Island,” which refers either to a purple-shelled snail that once inhabited these shores or to the brilliantly colored orchids and bougainvilleas.

Early maps show Islamorada as encompassing only Upper Matecumbe Key. But the incorporated “Village of Islands” is made up of a string of islands that the Overseas Highway crosses, including Plantation Key, Windley Key, Upper Matecumbe Key, Lower Matecumbe Key, Craig Key, and Fiesta Key. In addition, two state-park islands accessible only by boat—Indian Key and Lignumvitae Key—belong to the group.

Islamorada (locals pronounce it “eye -la-mor-ah -da”) is one of the world’s top fishing destinations. For nearly 100 years, seasoned anglers have fished these clear, warm waters teeming with trophy-worthy fish. There are numerous options for those in search of the big ones, including chartering a boat with its own crew or heading out on a vessel rented from one of the plethora of marinas along this 20-mile stretch of the Overseas Highway. More than 150 backcountry guides and 400 offshore captains are at your service.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

Most visitors arrive in Islamorada by car. If you’re flying in to Miami International Airport or Key West International Airport, you can easily rent a car (reserve in advance) to make the drive.

TOURS

Contact Florida Keys Food Tours. 305/393–9183 www.flkeysfoodtours.com .

VISITOR INFORMATION

Contact Islamorada Chamber of Commerce & Visitors Center. MM 87.1 BS, 87100 Overseas Hwy. 305/664–4503 , 800/322–5397 www.islamoradachamber.com .

EXPLORING

TOP ATTRACTIONS

Florida Keys Memorial / Hurricane Monument. On Monday, September 2, 1935, more than 400 people perished when the most intense hurricane to make landfall in the United States swept through this area of the Keys. Two years later, the Florida Keys Memorial was dedicated in their honor. Native coral rock, known as keystone, covers the 18-foot obelisk monument that marks the remains of more than 300 storm victims. A sculpted plaque of bending palms and waves graces the front (although many are bothered that the palms are bending in the wrong direction). In 1995, the memorial was placed on the National Register of Historic Places. MM 81.8, in front of the public library, 81831 Old State Hwy. 4A, Upper Matecumbe Key Just south of the Cheeca Lodge entrance Free .

History of Diving Museum. Adding to the region’s reputation for world-class diving, this museum plunges into the history of man’s thirst for undersea exploration. Among its 13 galleries of interactive and other interesting displays are a submarine and helmet re-created from the film 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea . Vintage U.S. Navy equipment, diving helmets from around the world, and early scuba gear explore 4,000 years of diving history. For the grand finale, spend $3 for a mouthpiece and sing your favorite tune at the helium bar. There are extended hours (until 7 pm) on the third Wednesday of every month. MM 83 BS, 82990 Overseas Hwy., Upper Matecumbe Key 305/664–9737 www.divingmuseum.org $12 .

Robbie’s Marina. FAMILY Huge, prehistoric-looking denizens of the not-so-deep, silver-sided tarpon congregate around the docks at this marina on Lower Matecumbe Key. Children—and lots of adults—pay $3 for a bucket of sardines to feed them and $1 each for dock admission. Spend some time hanging out at this authentic Keys community, where you can grab a bite to eat indoors or out, shop at a slew of artisans’ booths, or charter a boat, kayak, or other watercraft. MM 77.5 BS, 77522 Overseas Hwy., Lower Matecumbe Key 305/664–9814 , 877/664–8498 www.robbies.com Dock access $1 .

Theater of the Sea. FAMILY The second-oldest marine-mammal center in the world doesn’t attempt to compete with more modern, more expensive parks. Even so, it’s among the better attractions north of Key West, especially if you have kids in tow. In addition to marine-life exhibits and shows, you can make reservations for up-close-and-personal encounters like a swim with a dolphin or sea lion, or stingray and turtle feedings (which include general admission; reservations required). These are popular, so reserve in advance. Ride a “bottomless” boat to see what’s below the waves and take a guided tour of the marine-life exhibits. Nonstop animal shows highlight conservation issues. You can stop for lunch at the grill, shop in the extensive gift shop, or sunbathe and swim at the private beach. This easily could be an all-day attraction. MM 84.5 OS, 84721 Overseas Hwy., Windley Key 305/664–2431 www.theaterofthesea.com $31.95; interaction programs $45–$195 .

BEACHES

Anne’s Beach Park. FAMILY On Lower Matecumbe Key this popular village park is named for a local environmental activist. Its “beach” (really a typical Keys-style sand flat with a gentle slope) is best enjoyed at low tide. The nicest feature here is an elevated, wooden half-mile boardwalk that meanders through a natural wetland hammock. Covered picnic areas along the way give you places to linger and enjoy the view. Restrooms are at the north end. Weekends are packed with Miami day-trippers as it’s the only public beach until you reach Marathon. Amenities: parking (no fee); toilets. Best for: partiers; snorkeling; swimming; windsurfing. MM 73.5 OS, Lower Matecumbe Key 305/853–1685 .

WHERE TO EAT

Fodor’s Choice Chef Michael’s. $$$ SEAFOOD This local favorite whose motto is “Peace. Love. Hogfish.” has been making big waves since its opening in 2011 with chef Michael Ledwith at the helm. Seafood is selected fresh daily, then elegantly prepared with a splash of tropical flair. Known for: fresh seafood daily; gluten-free and vegetarian options; melt-in-your-mouth steaks. Average main: $30 MM 81.7, 81671 Overseas Hwy., Upper Matecumbe Key 305/664–0640 www.foodtotalkabout.com No lunch Mon.–Sat.

Green Turtle Inn. $$$ SEAFOOD This circa-1947 landmark inn and its vintage neon sign is a slice of Florida Keys history. Period photographs decorate the wood-paneled walls. Known for: turtle chowder; a piece of Florida Keys history. Average main: $24 MM 81.2 OS, 81219 Overseas Hwy., Upper Matecumbe Key 305/664–2006 www.greenturtlekeys.com Closed Mon.

Hungry Tarpon. $$ SEAFOOD As part of the colorful, bustling Old Florida scene at Robbie’s Marina, you know that the seafood here is fresh and top quality. The extensive menu seems as if it’s bigger than the dining space, which consists of a few tables and counter seating indoors, plus tables out back under the mangrove trees, close to where tourists pay to feed the tarpon in the marina. Known for: extensive menu; heart-of-the-action location. Average main: $19 MM 77.5 BS, 77522 Overseas Hwy., Lower Matecumbe Key 305/664–0535 www.hungrytarpon.com .

Islamorada Fish Company. $$ SEAFOOD FAMILY When a restaurant is owned by Bass Pro Shops, you know the seafood should be as fresh as you can get it. The restaurant is housed in an open-air, oversized tiki hut right on Florida Bay, making this the quintessential Keys experience. Known for: tourist hot spot; great views; seafood baskets. Average main: $18 MM 81.5 BS, 81532 Overseas Hwy., Windley Key 305/664–9271 restaurants.basspro.com/​fishcompany/​Islamorada/ .

Island Grill at Snake Creek. $ SEAFOOD Don’t be fooled by appearances; this shack on the waterfront takes island breakfast, lunch, and dinner up a notch. The eclectic menu tempts you with such dishes as its famed “original tuna nachos,” lobster rolls, and a nice selection of seafood and sandwiches. Known for: eclectic seafood options; slow service; nice views. Average main: $14 MM 85.5 OS, 85501 Overseas Hwy., Windley Key 305/664–8400 www.keysislandgrill.com .

Kaiyo Grill & Sushi. $$$ JAPANESE The decor—an inviting setting that includes colorful abstract mosaics, polished wood floors, and upholstered banquettes—almost steals the show at Kaiyo, but the food is equally interesting. The menu, a fusion of East and West, offers sushi rolls that combine local ingredients with traditional Japanese tastes. Known for: excellent wine and sake pairings; show-stopping decor; East-meets-West menu. Average main: $28 MM 81.5 OS, 81701 Overseas Hwy., Upper Matecumbe Key 305/664–5556 www.kaiyogrill.com No lunch .

Lorelei Restaurant & Cabana Bar. $$ AMERICAN While local anglers gather here for breakfast, lunch and dinner bring a mix of islanders and visitors for straightforward food and front-row seats to the sunset. Live music seven nights a week ensures a lively nighttime scene, and the menu staves off inebriation with burgers, barbecued baby back ribs, and Parmesan-crusted snapper. Known for: amazing sunset views; nightly live music. Average main: $15 MM 82 BS, 81924 Overseas Hwy., Upper Matecumbe Key 305/664–2692 www.loreleicabanabar.com .

Marker 88. $$$$ SEAFOOD A few yards from Florida Bay, this popular seafood restaurant has large picture windows that offer great sunset views. The bay is lovely no matter what time of day you visit, though, and most diners opt to sit outdoors. Known for: great outdoor seating; key lime baked Alaska; extensive wine list. Average main: $34 MM 88 BS, 88000 Overseas Hwy., Plantation Key 305/852–9315 www.marker88.info .

Morada Bay Beach Café. $$$ ECLECTIC FAMILY This bay-front restaurant wins high marks for its surprisingly stellar cuisine, tables planted in the sand, and tiki torches that bathe the evening in romance. Entrées feature alluring combinations like fresh fish of the day sautéed with Meyer lemon butter and whole fried snapper with coconut rice. Known for: feet-in-the-sand dining; full-moon parties. Average main: $27 MM 81 BS, 81600 Overseas Hwy., Upper Matecumbe Key 305/664–0604 www.moradabay.com .

Fodor’s Choice Pierre’s. $$$$ FRENCH One of the Keys’ most elegant restaurants, Pierre’s marries colonial style with modern food trends. Full of interesting architectural artifacts, the place oozes style, especially the wicker-chair-strewn veranda overlooking the bay. Known for: romantic spot for that special night out; seasonally changing menu; full-moon parties. Average main: $43 MM 81.5 BS, 81600 Overseas Hwy., Upper Matecumbe Key 305/664–3225 www.moradabay.com No lunch .

WHERE TO STAY

Amara Cay Resort. $$ RESORT Simple yet chic, Islamorada’s newest resort is an oceanfront gem. Pros: free shuttle to local attractions; on-site dive shop; large heated pool. Cons: pricey $28 a day resort fee; expensive restaurant; living area of rooms lack seating. Rooms from: $299 MM 80 OS, 80001 Overseas Hwy. 305/664–0073 www.amaracayresort.com 110 rooms No meals .

Fodor’s Choice Casa Morada. $$$ B&B/INN This relic from the 1950s has been restyled into a suave, design-forward, all-suites property with outdoor showers and Jacuzzis in some of the suites. Pros: cool design; complimentary snacks and bottled water; complimentary use of bikes, kayaks, and snorkel gear. Cons: trailer park across the street; beach is small and inconsequential. Rooms from: $309 MM 82 BS, 136 Madeira Rd., Upper Matecumbe Key 305/664–0044 , 888/881–3030 www.casamorada.com 16 suites Breakfast .

Fodor’s Choice Cheeca Lodge & Spa. $$$$ RESORT At 27 acres, this may be the largest resort in the Keys, and it’s also big on included amenities. Pros: beautifully landscaped grounds; new designer rooms; water-sports center on property. Cons: expensive rates; expensive resort fee; very busy. Rooms from: $499 MM 82 OS, 81801 Overseas Hwy., Upper Matecumbe Key 305/664–4651 , 800/327–2888 www.cheeca.com 123 rooms No meals .

Drop Anchor Resort and Marina. $ HOTEL Immaculately maintained, this place has the feel of an old friend’s beach house. Pros: bright and colorful; attention to detail; laid-back charm. Cons: noise from the highway; beach is better for fishing than swimming. Rooms from: $159 MM 85 OS, 84959 Overseas Hwy., Windley Key 305/664–4863 , 888/664–4863 www.dropanchorresort.com 18 suites No meals .

The Islander Resort, A Guy Harvey Outpost. $$ RESORT Guests here get to choose between a self-sufficient townhome on the bay side or an oceanfront resort with on-site restaurants and oodles of amenities. Pros: spacious rooms; nice kitchens; eye-popping views. Cons: pricey for what you get; beach has rough sand. Rooms from: $249 MM 82.1 OS, 82200 Overseas Hwy., Upper Matecumbe Key 305/664–2031 , 800/753–6002 www.guyharveyout­postisla­morada.com 122 rooms, 24 townhomes Breakfast .

Fodor’s Choice The Moorings Village. $$$$ HOTEL This tropical retreat is everything you imagine when you envision the laid-back Keys—from hammocks swaying between towering trees to manicured sand lapped by aqua-green waves. Pros: romantic setting; good dining options with room-charging privileges; beautiful views. Cons: no room service; $25 daily resort fee for activities. Rooms from: $529 MM 81.6 OS, 123 Beach Rd., Upper Matecumbe Key 305/664–4708 www.themooringsvillage.com 18 cottages No meals .

Fodor’s Choice Ocean House. $$$ HOTEL This adults-only boutique hotel is situated right on the Atlantic, yet it’s hidden from passersby amid lush gardens. Pros: complimentary use of kayaks, snorkel equipment, and bicycles; luxurious facilities and amenities. Cons: limited number of units means it’s often booked solid; luxury comes at a price. Rooms from: $319 MM 82 OS, 82885 Old Hwy., Windley Key 866/540–5520 www.oceanhouse­floridakeys.com 8 suites Some meals .

Postcard Inn Beach Resort & Marina at Holiday Isle. $$ RESORT After an $11 million renovation that encompassed updating everything from the rooms to the public spaces, this iconic property (formerly known as the Holiday Isle Beach Resort) has found new life. Pros: large private beach; heated pools; on-site restaurants including Ciao Hound Italian Kitchen. Cons: rooms near tiki bar are noisy; minimum stay required during peak times; rooms without an oceanfront view overlook a parking lot. Rooms from: $267 MM 84 OS, 84001 Overseas Hwy., Plantation Key 305/664–2321 www.holidayisle.com 143 rooms No meals .

Ragged Edge Resort. $ HOTEL FAMILY Nicely tucked away in a residential area at the ocean’s edge, this family-owned hotel draws returning guests who’d rather fish off the dock and grill up dinner than loll around in Egyptian cotton sheets. Pros: oceanfront; boat docks and ramp; cheap rates. Cons: dated decor; off the beaten path. Rooms from: $169 MM 86.5 OS, 243 Treasure Harbor Rd., Plantation Key 305/852–5389 , 800/436–2023 www.ragged-edge.com 10 units No meals .

SHOPPING

Art galleries, upscale gift shops, and the mammoth World Wide Sportsman (if you want to look the part of a local fisherman, you must wear a shirt from here) make up the variety and superior style of Islamorada shopping.

Banyan Tree. Stroll and shop among the colorful orchids and lush plants at this outdoor garden and indoor boutique known for its tropical splendor, unique gifts, and free-spirited clothing. There is nothing quite like it in the area. MM 81.2 OS, 81197 Overseas Hwy., Upper Matecumbe Key 305/664–3433 www.banyantreegarden.com Closed Sun.

Casa Mar Village. Change is good, and in this case, it’s fantastic. What was once a row of worn-down buildings is now a merry blend of gift shops and galleries with the added bonus of a place selling fresh-roasted coffee. By day, these colorful shops glisten at their canal-front location; by nightfall, they’re lit up like a lovely Christmas town. The offerings include What The Fish Rolls & More restaurant; Casa Mar Seafood fish market; and Paddle The Florida Keys, where you can rent paddleboards and kayaks. MM 90 OS, 90775 Old Hwy., Upper Matecumbe Key www.casamarvillage.com .

Gallery Morada. This gallery is a go-to destination for one-of-a-kind gifts, beautifully displayed blown glass, original sculptures, paintings, and jewelry by 200 artists. Its location, front and center, makes it the gateway to the Morada Way Arts and Cultural District, an area with artist galleries, shops, potters, gardens, and culinary classes. MM 81.6 OS, 81611 Old Hwy., Upper Matecumbe Key 305/664–3650 www.gallerymorada.com .

Rain Barrel Artisan Village. This is a natural and unhurried shopping showplace. Set in a tropical garden of shady trees, native shrubs, and orchids, the crafts village has shops selling the work of local and national artists as well as resident artists who sell work from their own studios. Take a selfie with “Betsy,” the giant Florida lobster, roadside. MM 86.7 BS, 86700 Overseas Hwy., Plantation Key 305/852–3084 www.seefloridaonline.com/​rainbarrel/​index.html .

Redbone Gallery. This gallery stocks hand-stitched clothing, giftware, and jewelry, in addition to works of art by watercolorists C.D. Clarke, Christine Black, and Julie Joyce; and painters David Hall, Steven Left, Tim Borski, and Jorge Martinez. Proceeds benefit cystic fibrosis research. Find them in the Morada Way Arts & Cultural District. MM 81.5 OS, 200 Morada Way, Upper Matecumbe Key 305/664–2002 www.redbone.org .

World Wide Sportsman. This two-level retail center sells upscale and everyday fishing equipment, resort clothing, sportfishing art, and other gifts. When you’re tired of shopping, relax at the Zane Grey Long Key Lounge, located on the second level—but not before you step up and into Pilar, a replica of Hemingway’s boat. MM 81.5 BS, 81576 Overseas Hwy., Upper Matecumbe Key 305/664–4615 , 800/327–2880 .

SPORTS AND THE OUTDOORS

BOATING

Bump & Jump. You can rent both fishing and deck boats here (from 15 to 29 feet) by the day or the week. Free local delivery with seven-day rentals from each of their locations is available. MM 85.9 BS and 99.7 OS, 85920 Overseas Hwy., Upper Matecumbe Key 305/664–9404 , 877/453–9463 www.keysboatrental.com Rentals from $185 per day .

Early Bird Fishing Charters. Captain Ross knows these waters well and he’ll hook you up with whatever is in season—mahimahi, sailfish, tuna, and wahoo, to name a few—while you cruise on a comfy and stylish 43-foot custom Willis charter boat. The salon is air-conditioned for those hot summer days, and everything but booze and food is included. Postcard Inn Marina, MM 84.5 OS, 84001 Overseas Hwy. 305/942–3618 www.fishearlybird.com 4 hrs $800; 6 hrs $1,000; 8 hrs $1,200 .

Nauti-Limo. Captain Joe Fox has converted the design of a 1983 pink Caddy stretch limo into a less-than-luxurious but certainly curious watercraft. The seaworthy hybrid—complete with wheels—can sail with the top down if you’re in the mood. Only in the Keys! One-hour and longer tours are available. Lorelei Restaurant & Yacht Club, MM 82 BS, 96 Madeira Rd., Upper Matecumbe Key 305/942–3793 www.nautilimo.com From $60 .

Robbie’s Boat Rentals & Charters. This full-service company will even give you a crash course on how not to crash your boat. The rental fleet includes an 18-foot skiff with a 90-horsepower outboard to a 21-foot deck boat with a 130-horsepower engine. Robbie’s also rents snorkeling gear (there’s good snorkeling nearby) and sells bait, drinks, and snacks. Want to hire a guide who knows the local waters and where the fish lurk? Robbie’s offers offshore-fishing trips, patch-reef trips, and party-boat fishing. Backcountry flats trips are a specialty. MM 77.5 BS, 77522 Overseas Hwy., Lower Matecumbe Key 305/664–9814 , 877/664–8498 www.robbies.com From $185 per day .

FISHING

Here in the self-proclaimed “Sportfishing Capital of the World,” sailfish is the prime catch in the winter and mahimahi in the summer. Buchanan Bank just south of Islamorada is a good spot to try for tarpon in the spring. Blackfin tuna and amberjack are generally plentiful in the area, too. ■ TIP → The Hump at Islamorada ranks highest among anglers’ favorite fishing spots in Florida (declared Florida Monthly magazine’s best for seven years in a row) due to the incredible offshore marine life.

Captain Ted Wilson. Go into the backcountry for bonefish, tarpon, redfish, snook, and shark aboard a 17-foot boat that accommodates up to three anglers. Choose half-day (four hours), three-quarter-day (six hours), or full-day (eight hours) trips, or evening tarpon fishing excursions. Rates are for one or two anglers. There’s a $75 charge for an additional person. MM 79.9 OS, 79851 Overseas Hwy., Upper Matecumbe Key 305/942–5224 , 305/664–9463 www.captaintedwilson.com Half-day and evening trips from $450 .

Florida Keys Fly Fish. Like other top fly-fishing and light-tackle guides, Captain Geoff Colmes helps his clients land trophy fish in the waters around the Keys, from Islamorada to Flamingo in the Everglades. 105 Palm La., Upper Matecumbe Key 305/853–0741 www.floridakeysflyfish.com From $550 .

Florida Keys Outfitters. Long before fly-fishing became popular, Sandy Moret was fishing the Keys for bonefish, tarpon, and redfish. Now he attracts anglers from around the world on a quest for the big catch. His weekend fly-fishing classes include classroom instruction, equipment, and daily lunch. Guided fishing trips can be done for a half day or full day. Packages combining fishing and accommodations at Islander Resort are available. Green Turtle, MM 81.2, 81219 Overseas Hwy., Upper Matecumbe Key 305/664–5423 www.floridake­ysoutfitters.com Half-day trips from $495 .

Hubba Hubba Charters. Captain Ken Knudsen has fished the Keys waters since the 1950s. A licensed backcountry guide, he’s ranked among Florida’s top 10 by national fishing magazines. He offers four-hour sunset trips for tarpon and two-hour sunset trips for bonefish, as well as half- and full-day outings. Prices are for one or two anglers, and tackle and bait are included. Bud n’ Mary’s Marina, MM 79.8 OS, Upper Matecumbe Key 305/664–9281 From $250 .

Miss Islamorada. This 65-foot party boat offers full-day trips. Bring your lunch or buy one from the dockside deli. Bud n’ Mary’s Marina, MM 79.8 OS, 79851 Overseas Hwy., Upper Matecumbe Key 305/664–2461 , 800/742–7945 www.budnmarys.com $65 .

SCUBA DIVING AND SNORKELING

San Pedro Underwater Archaeological Preserve State Park. About 1¼ nautical miles south of Indian Key is the San Pedro Underwater Archaeological Preserve State Park, which includes the remains of a Spanish treasure-fleet ship that sank in 1733. The state of Florida protects the site for divers; no spearfishing or souvenir collecting is allowed. Seven replica cannons and a plaque enhance what basically amounts to a 90-foot-long pile of ballast stones. Resting in only 18 feet of water, its ruins are visible to snorkelers as well as divers and attract a colorful array of fish. MM 85.5 OS 305/664–2540 www.floridastateparks.org/​sanpedro .

Florida Keys Dive Center. Dive from John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park to Alligator Reef with this outfitter. The center has two 46-foot Coast Guard–approved dive boats, offers scuba training, and is one of the few Keys dive centers to offer Nitrox and Trimix (mixed gas) diving. MM 90.5 OS, 90451 Overseas Hwy., Plantation Key 305/852–4599 , 800/433–8946 www.floridakeysdivectr.com Snorkeling from $38, diving from $65 .

Islamorada Dive Center. This one-stop dive shop has a resort, pool, restaurant, lessons, and twice-daily dive and snorkel trips and the newest fleet in the Keys. You can take a day trip with a two-tank dive or a one-tank night trip with their equipment or yours. Snorkel and spearfishing trips are also available. MM 84 OS, 84001 Overseas Hwy., Windley Key 305/664–3483 , 800/327–7070 www.islamora­dadivecenter.com Snorkel trips from $45, diving from $85 .

WATER SPORTS

The Kayak Shack. You can rent kayaks for trips to Indian (about 20 minutes one way) and Lignumvitae (about 45 minutes one way) keys, two favorite destinations for paddlers. Kayaks can be rented for a half day (and you’ll need plenty of time to explore those mangrove canopies). The company also offers guided two-hour tours, including a snorkel trip to Indian Key or backcountry ecotours. It also rents stand-up paddleboards, including instruction, and canoes. Robbie’s Marina, MM 77.5 BS, 77522 Overseas Hwy., Lower Matecumbe Key 305/664–4878 www.kayakthefloridakeys.com From $40 for single, $55 for double; guided trips from $45 .

THE MIDDLE KEYS

Most of the activity in the Middle Keys revolves around the town of Marathon, the region’s third-largest metropolitan area. On either end of it, smaller keys hold resorts, wildlife research and rehab facilities, a historic village, and a state park. The Middle Keys make a fitting transition from the Upper Keys to the Lower Keys not only geographically but also mentally. Crossing Seven Mile Bridge prepares you for the slow pace and don’t-give-a-damn attitude you’ll find a little farther down the highway. Fishing is one of the main attractions—in fact, the region’s commercial fishing industry was founded here in the early 1800s. Diving is another popular pastime. There are also beaches and natural areas to enjoy in the Middle Keys, where mainland stress becomes an ever more distant memory.

DUCK KEY

MM 61.

Duck Key holds one of the region’s nicest marina resorts, Hawks Cay, plus a boating-oriented residential community.

WHERE TO EAT

Alma. $$$ LATIN AMERICAN A refreshing escape from the Middle Keys’ same-old menus, Alma serves expertly prepared Florida and Latin-Caribbean dishes in an elegant setting. Nightly changing menus might include a trio of dishes that could include ceviche, ahi tuna with a wonderful garbanzo bean tomato sauce, gnocchi and exotic mushroom ragout, or pan-seared Wagyu steak. Known for: seafood and steaks with a Latin influence; nightly changing menu; high prices. Average main: $28 Hawks Cay Resort, 61 Hawks Cay Blvd. 305/743–7000 , 888/432–2242 www.hawkscay.com No lunch .

WHERE TO STAY

Fodor’s Choice Hawks Cay Resort. $$$ RESORT FAMILY The 60-acre, Caribbean-style retreat with a full-service spa and restaurants has plenty to keep the kids occupied (and adults happy). Pros: huge rooms; restful spa; full-service marina and dive shop. Cons: no real beach; far from Marathon’s attractions. Rooms from: $315 MM 61 OS, 61 Hawks Cay Blvd. 305/743–7000 , 888/432–2242 www.hawkscay.com 161 rooms, 16 suites, 254 2- and 3-bedroom villas No meals .

GRASSY KEY

MM 60–57.

Local lore has it that this sleepy little key was named not for its vegetation—mostly native trees and shrubs—but for an early settler by the name of Grassy. A few families operating small fishing camps and roadside motels primarily inhabit the key. There’s no marked definition between it and Marathon, so it feels sort of like a suburb of its much larger neighbor to the south. Grassy Key’s sights tend toward the natural, including a worthwhile dolphin attraction and a small state park.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

Most visitors arriving by air drive to this destination either from Miami International Airport or Key West International Airport. Rental cars are readily available at both, and in the long run, are the most convenient means of transportation for getting here and touring around the Keys.

EXPLORING

TOP ATTRACTIONS

Curry Hammock State Park. Looking for a slice of the Keys that’s far removed from tiki bars? On the ocean and bay sides of Overseas Highway are 260 acres of upland hammock, wetlands, and mangroves. On the bay side, there’s a trail through thick hardwoods to a rocky shoreline. The ocean side is more developed, with a sandy beach, a clean bathhouse, picnic tables, a playground, grills, and a 28-site campground, each with electric and water. Locals consider the paddling trails under canopies of arching mangroves one of the best kayaking spots in the Keys. Manatees frequent the area, and it’s a great spot for bird-watching. Herons, egrets, ibis, plovers, and sanderlings are commonly spotted. Raptors are often seen in the park, especially during migration periods. MM 57 OS, 56200 Overseas Hwy., Little Crawl Key 305/289–2690 www.floridastateparks.org/​curryhammock $4.50 for 1 person, $6 for 2, 50¢ per additional person Campsites are $43 per night.

Dolphin Research Center. FAMILY The 1963 movie Flipper popularized the notion of humans interacting with dolphins, and Milton Santini, the film’s creator, also opened this center, which is home to a colony of dolphins and sea lions. The nonprofit center has educational sessions and programs that allow you to greet the dolphins from dry land or play with them in their watery habitat. You can even paint a T-shirt with a dolphin—you pick the paint, the dolphin “designs” your shirt. The center also offers five-day programs for children and adults with disabilities. MM 59 BS, 58901 Overseas Hwy. 305/289–1121 information , 305/289–0002 reservations www.dolphins.org $28 .

WHERE TO EAT

Hideaway Café. $$$ AMERICAN The name says it all. Tucked between Grassy Key and Marathon, it’s easy to miss if you’re mindlessly driving through the middle islands. Known for: seclusion and quiet; amazing escargot; hand-cut steaks and fresh fish. Average main: $30 Rainbow Bend Resort, MM 58 OS, 57784 Overseas Hwy. 305/289–1554 www.hideawaycafe.com No lunch .

MARATHON

MM 53–47.5.

New Englanders founded this former fishing village in the early 1800s. The community on Vaca Key subsequently served as a base for pirates, salvagers (also known as “wreckers”), spongers, and, later, Bahamian farmers who eked out a living growing cotton and other crops. More Bahamians arrived in the hope of finding work building the railroad. According to local lore, Marathon was renamed when a worker commented that it was a marathon task to position the tracks across the 6-mile-long island.

During the building of the railroad, Marathon developed a reputation for lawlessness that rivaled that of the Old West. It is said that to keep the rowdy workers from descending on Key West for their off-hours endeavors, residents would send boatloads of liquor up to Marathon. Needless to say, things have quieted down considerably since then.

Still, Marathon is a bustling town, at least compared to other communities in the Keys. As it leaves something to be desired in the charm department, Marathon may not be your first choice of places to stay, but water-sports types will find plenty to enjoy, and its historic and natural attractions merit a visit. Surprisingly good dining options abound, so you’ll definitely want to stop for a bite even if you’re just passing through on the way to Key West.

Throughout the year, Marathon hosts fishing tournaments (practically monthly), a huge seafood festival in March, and lighted boat parades around the holidays.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

SuperShuttle charges $102 per passenger for trips from Miami International Airport to the Upper Keys. To go farther into the Keys, you must book an entire 11-person van, which costs about $280 to Marathon. For a trip to the airport, place your request 24 hours in advance. See Getting Here and Around: Bus Travel.

VISITOR INFORMATION

Contact Greater Marathon Chamber of Commerce and Visitor Center. MM 53.5 BS, 12222 Overseas Hwy. 305/743–5417 , 800/262–7284 www.floridakeysmarathon.com .

EXPLORING

TOP ATTRACTIONS

Crane Point Museum, Nature Center, and Historic Site. FAMILY Tucked away from the highway behind a stand of trees, Crane Point—part of a 63-acre tract that contains the last-known undisturbed thatch-palm hammock—is delightfully undeveloped. This multiuse facility includes the Museum of Natural History of the Florida Keys, which has displays about local wildlife, a seashell exhibit, and a marine-life display that makes you feel you’re at the bottom of the sea. Kids love the replica 17th-century galleon and pirate dress-up room where they can play, and the re-created Cracker House filled with insects, sea-turtle exhibits, and children’s activities. On the 1-mile indigenous loop trail, visit the Laura Quinn Wild Bird Center and the remnants of a Bahamian village, site of the restored George Adderly House. It is the oldest surviving example of Bahamian tabby (a concretelike material created from sand and seashells) construction outside of Key West. A boardwalk crosses wetlands, rivers, and mangroves before ending at Adderly Village. From November to Easter, docent-led tours are available; bring good walking shoes and bug repellent during warm weather. MM 50.5 BS, 5550 Overseas Hwy. 305/743–9100 www.cranepoint.net $14.95 .

Florida Keys Aquarium Encounters. FAMILY This isn’t your typical large-city aquarium. It’s more hands-on and personal, and it’s all outdoors with several tiki huts to house the encounters and provide shade as you explore, rain or shine; plan to spend at least two to three hours here. You’ll find a 200,000-gallon aquarium and plenty of marine encounters (extra cost), as well as guided tours, viewing areas, and a predator tank. The Coral Reef encounter ($95 snorkel, $130 scuba) lets you dive in a reef environment without hearing the theme from Jaws in your head (although you can see several sharks on the other side of the glass). Touch tanks are great for all ages and even have unique critters like slipper lobsters. Hungry? The on-site Eagle Ray Cafe serves up wings, fish tacos, salads, burgers, and more. Note that general admission is required, even if you’re signed up for a marine encounter. MM 53 BS, 11710 Overseas Hwy. 305/407–3262 www.floridakey­saquariumen­counters.com $20 .

Pigeon Key. There’s much to like about this 5-acre island under the Old Seven Mile Bridge. You might even recognize it from a season finale of the TV show The Amazing Race . You can reach it via a ferry that departs from behind the visitor center (look for the old red railroad car on Knight’s Key, MM 47 OS). Once there, tour the island on your own or join a guided tour to explore the buildings that formed the early-20th-century work camp for the Overseas Railroad that linked the mainland to Key West in 1912. Later the island became a fish camp, a state park, and then government-administration headquarters. Exhibits in a small museum recall the history of the Keys, the railroad, and railroad baron Henry M. Flagler. The ferry ride with tour lasts two hours; visitors can self-tour and catch the ferry back in a half hour. ■ TIP → Bring your own snorkel gear and dive flag and you can snorkel right from the shore. MM 45 OS, 1 Knights Key Blvd., Pigeon Key 305/743–5999 pigeonkey.net $12 .

Seven Mile Bridge. This is one of the most photographed images in the Keys. Actually measuring slightly less than 7 miles, it connects the Middle and Lower keys and is believed to be the world’s longest segmental bridge. It has 39 expansion joints separating its various concrete sections. Each April runners gather in Marathon for the annual Seven Mile Bridge Run. The expanse running parallel to Seven Mile Bridge is what remains of the Old Seven Mile Bridge, an engineering and architectural marvel in its day that’s now on the National Register of Historic Places. Once proclaimed the Eighth Wonder of the World, it rested on a record 546 concrete piers. No cars are allowed on the old bridge today. Marathon .

The Turtle Hospital. FAMILY More than 100 injured sea turtles check in here every year. The 90-minute guided tours take you into recovery and surgical areas at the world’s only state-certified veterinary hospital for sea turtles. In the “hospital bed” tanks, you can see recovering patients and others that are permanent residents due to their injuries. After the tour, you can feed some of the “residents.” Call ahead—space is limited and tours are sometimes canceled due to medical emergencies. The turtle ambulance out front makes for a memorable souvenir photo. MM 48.5 BS, 2396 Overseas Hwy. 305/743–2552 www.turtlehospital.org $22 .

BEACHES

Sombrero Beach. FAMILY No doubt one of the best beaches in the Keys, here you’ll find pleasant, shaded picnic areas that overlook a coconut palm–lined grassy stretch and the Atlantic Ocean. Roped-off areas allow swimmers, boaters, and windsurfers to share the narrow cove. Facilities include barbecue grills, a large playground, a pier, a volleyball court, and a paved, lighted bike path off Overseas Highway. Sunday afternoons draw lots of local families toting coolers. The park is accessible for those with disabilities and allows leashed pets. Turn east at the traffic light in Marathon and follow signs to the end. Amenities: showers; toilets. Best for: swimming; windsurfing. MM 50 OS, Sombrero Beach Rd. 305/743–0033 Free .

WHERE TO EAT

Fish Tales Market and Eatery. $ SEAFOOD This no-frills, roadside eatery has a loyal local following, an unfussy ambience, a couple of outside picnic tables, and friendly service. Signature dishes include snapper on grilled rye with coleslaw and melted Muenster cheese, a fried fish burrito, and lobster bisque or tomato-based conch chowder. Known for: luscious lobster bisque; fresh and affordable seafood market; closing early. Average main: $9 MM 52.5 OS, 11711 Overseas Hwy. 305/743–9196 , 888/662–4822 www.floridalobster.com Closed Sun. No dinner Sat.

Key Colony Inn. $$ ITALIAN The inviting aroma of an Italian kitchen pervades this family-owned favorite known for its Sunday brunch, served November through April. For lunch there are fish and steak entrées served with fries, salad, and bread in addition to Italian specialties. Known for: friendly and attentive service; Italian specialties; Sunday brunch. Average main: $20 MM 54 OS, 700 W. Ocean Dr., Key Colony Beach 305/743–0100 www.kcinn.com .

Keys Fisheries Market & Marina. $$ SEAFOOD FAMILY From the parking lot, you can’t miss the enormous tiki bar on stilts, but the walk-up window on the ground floor is the heart of this warehouse-turned-restaurant. Order at the window, pick up your food, then dine at one of the waterfront tables outfitted with rolls of paper towels. Known for: huge lobster Reuben; walk-up takeout window; adults-only upstairs tiki bar. Average main: $16 MM 49 BS, 3390 Gulfview Ave., at the end of 35th St. Turn onto 35th St. from Overseas Hwy. 305/743–4353 , 866/743–4353 www.keysfisheries.com .

Fodor’s Choice Lazy Days South. $$$ SEAFOOD Tucked into Marathon Marina a half mile north of the Seven Mile Bridge, this restaurant offers views just as spectacular as its highly lauded food. A spin-off of an Islamorada favorite, here you’ll find a wide range of daily offerings from fried or sautéed conch and a coconut-fried fish du jour sandwich to seafood pastas and beef tips over rice. Known for: water views; delicious seafood entrées. Average main: $22 MM 47.3 OS, 725 11th St. 305/289–0839 www.lazydayssouth.com .

The Stuffed Pig. $ DINER With only nine tables and a counter inside, this breakfast-and-lunch place is always hopping. When the weather’s right, grab a table out back. Known for: famous “pig’s” breakfast; daily lunch specials; large portions. Average main: $9 MM 49 BS, 3520 Overseas Hwy. 305/743–4059 www.thestuffedpig.com No credit cards No dinner .

Sunset Grille & Raw Bar. $$$ SEAFOOD After a walk or bike ride along the Old Seven Mile Bridge, treat yourself to a seafood lunch or dinner at this vaulted tiki hut by the bridge. For lunch, start with the conch chowder or fritters, and then move on to the Voodoo grouper sandwich topped with mango-guava mayo, and finish with a tasty key lime pie. Known for: weekend pool parties and barbecues; creative dinner specials. Average main: $22 MM 47 OS, 7 Knights Key Blvd. 305/396–7235 www.sunsetgrille7milebridge.com .

WHERE TO STAY

Glunz Ocean Beach Hotel & Resort. $$ RENTAL The Glunz family got it right when they purchased this former time-share property and put a whole lot of love into renovating it to its full oceanfront potential. Pros: oceanfront; helpful service; excellent free Wi-Fi. Cons: neighbor noise; small elevator; no interior corridors; not cheap. Rooms from: $280 MM 53.5 OS, 351 E. Ocean Dr., Key Colony Beach 305/289–0525 www.GlunzOcean­BeachHotel.com 38 rooms, 8 villas No meals .

Fodor’s Choice Tranquility Bay. $$$$ RESORT FAMILY Ralph Lauren could have designed the rooms at this stylish, luxurious resort on a nice beach. Pros: secluded setting; gorgeous design; lovely crescent beach. Cons: a bit sterile; no real Keys atmosphere; cramped building layout. Rooms from: $425 MM 48.5 BS, 2600 Overseas Hwy. 305/289–0888 , 866/643–5397 www.tranquilitybay.com 102 rooms No meals .

SPORTS AND THE OUTDOORS

BIKING

Tooling around on two wheels is a good way to see Marathon. There’s easy cycling on a 1-mile off-road path that connects to the 2 miles of the Old Seven Mile Bridge leading to Pigeon Key.

Bike Marathon Bike Rentals. “Have bikes, will deliver” could be the motto of this company, which gets beach cruisers to your hotel door, including a helmet and basket. They also rent kayaks. Note that there’s no physical location, but services are available Monday through Saturday 9–4 and Sunday 9–2. Marathon 305/743–3204 www.bikemarathon­bikerentals.com $45 per wk .

Overseas Outfitters. Aluminum cruisers and hybrid bikes are available for rent at this outfitter. It’s open weekdays 9–5:30 and Saturday 9–3. All rentals include a helmet and lock. MM 48 BS, 1700 Overseas Hwy. 305/289–1670 www.overseasoutfitters.com Rentals from $15 per day .

BOATING

Sail, motor, or paddle: whatever your choice of modes, boating is what the Keys is all about. Brave the Atlantic waves and reefs or explore the backcountry islands on the gulf side. If you don’t have a lot of boating and chart-reading experience, it’s a good idea to tap into local knowledge on a charter.

Captain Pip’s. This operator rents 18- to 24-foot outboards as well as tackle and snorkeling gear. Fishing charters are also available with a captain and a mate (full-day charters are also available). Ask about multiday deals, or try one of their accommodation packages and walk right from your bay-front room to your boat. MM 47.5 BS, 1410 Overseas Hwy. 305/743–4403 , 800/707–1692 www.captainpips.com Rentals from $195 per day; half-day charters from $650 .

Fish ‘n Fun. Get out on the water on 19- to 26-foot powerboats. Rentals can be for a half or full day. The company also offers free delivery in the Middle Keys. Duck Key Marina, MM 61 OS, 1149 Greenbriar Rd. 305/743–2275 , 800/471–3440 www.fishnfunrentals.com From $175 .

FISHING

For recreational anglers, the deepwater fishing is superb in both bay and ocean. Marathon West Hump, one good spot, has depths ranging from 500 to more than 1,000 feet. Locals fish from a half dozen bridges, including Long Key Bridge, the Old Seven Mile Bridge, and both ends of Tom’s Harbor. Barracuda, bonefish, and tarpon all frequent local waters. Party boats and private charters are available.

Marathon Lady. Morning, afternoon, and night, fish for mahimahi, grouper, and other tasty catch aboard this 73-footer, which departs on half-day excursions from the Vaca Cut Bridge (MM 53), north of Marathon. Join the crew for night fishing ($55) from 6:30 to midnight from Memorial Day to Labor Day; it’s especially beautiful on a full-moon night. MM 53 OS, 11711 Overseas Hwy., at 117th St. 305/743–5580 www.marathonlady.net From $50 .

Sea Dog Charters. Captain Jim Purcell, a deep-sea specialist for ESPN’s The American Outdoorsman, provides one of the best values in Keys fishing. Next to the Seven Mile Grill, his company offers half- and full-day offshore, reef and wreck, and backcountry fishing trips, as well as fishing and snorkeling trips aboard 30- to 37-foot boats. The per-person for a half-day trip is the same regardless of whether your group fills the boat, and includes bait, light tackle, ice, coolers, and fishing licenses. If you prefer an all-day private charter on a 37-foot boat, he offers those, too, for up to six people. A fuel surcharge may apply. MM 47.5 BS, 1248 Overseas Hwy. 305/743–8255 www.seadogcharters.net From $60 .

SCUBA DIVING AND SNORKELING

Local dive operations take you to Sombrero Reef and Lighthouse, the most popular down-under destination in these parts. For a shallow dive and some lobster nabbing, Coffins Patch, off Key Colony Beach, is a good choice. A number of wrecks such as Thunderbolt serve as artificial reefs. Many operations out of this area will also take you to Looe Key Reef.

Hall’s Diving Center & Career Institute. The institute has been training divers for more than 40 years. Along with conventional twice-a-day snorkel and two-tank dive trips to the reefs at Sombrero Lighthouse and wrecks like the Thunderbolt, the company has more unusual offerings like rebreather, photography, and Nitrox courses. MM 48.5 BS, 1994 Overseas Hwy. 305/743–5929 , 800/331–4255 www.hallsdiving.com From $45 .

Spirit Snorkeling. Join regularly scheduled snorkeling excursions to Sombrero Reef and Lighthouse Reef on this company’s comfortable catamaran. They also offer sunset cruises and private charters. MM 47.5 BS, 1410 Overseas Hwy., Slip No. 1 305/289–0614 www.captainpips.com From $30 .

Tildens Scuba Center. Since the mid-1980s, Tildens Scuba Center has been providing lessons, tours, gear rental, and daily snorkel, scuba, and Snuba adventures. Look for the huge, colorful angelfish sculpture outside the building. MM 49.5 BS, 4650 Overseas Hwy. 305/743–7255 , 888/728–2235 From $60 for snorkel trips; from $70 for dive trips .

THE LOWER KEYS

Beginning at Bahia Honda Key, the islands of the Florida Keys become smaller, more clustered, and more numerous, a result of ancient tidal water flowing between the Florida Straits and the gulf. Here you’re likely to see more birds and mangroves than other tourists, and more refuges, beaches, and campgrounds than museums, restaurants, and hotels. The islands are made up of two types of limestone, both denser than the highly permeable Key Largo limestone of the Upper Keys. As a result, freshwater forms in pools rather than percolating through the rock, creating watering holes that support alligators, snakes, deer, rabbits, raccoons, and migratory ducks. (Many of these animals can be seen in the National Key Deer Refuge on Big Pine Key.) Nature was generous with her beauty in the Lower Keys, which have both Looe Key Reef, arguably the Keys’ most beautiful tract of coral, and Bahia Honda State Park, considered one of the best beaches in the world for its fine sand dunes, clear warm waters, and panoramic vista of bridges, hammocks, and azure sky and sea. Big Pine Key is fishing headquarters for a laid-back community that swells with retirees in the winter. South of it, the dribble of islands can flash by in a blink of an eye if you don’t take the time to stop at a roadside eatery or check out tours and charters at the little marinas. They include Little Torch Key, Middle Torch Key, Ramrod Key, Summerland Key, Cudjoe Key, Sugarloaf Keys, and Saddlebunch Key. Lying offshore of Little Torch Key, Little Palm Island once welcomed U.S. presidents and other notables to its secluded fishing camp. It was also the location for the movie PT 109 about John F. Kennedy’s celebrated World War II heroism. Today it still offers respite to the upper class in the form of an exclusive getaway resort accessible only by boat or seaplane.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

To get to the Lower Keys, fly into either Miami International Airport or Key West International Airport. Key West is considerably closer, but there are far fewer flights coming in and going out. Rental cars are available at both airports. In addition, there is bus service from the Key West airport; $4 one way with Key West Transit. See Getting Here and Around: Bus Travel in Key West, below.

BAHIA HONDA KEY

MM 38.5–36.

All of Bahia Honda Key is devoted to its eponymous state park, which keeps it in a pristine state. Besides the park’s outdoor activities, it offers an up-close view of the original railroad bridge.

EXPLORING

TOP ATTRACTIONS

Fodor’s Choice Bahia Honda State Park. FAMILY Most first-time visitors to the region are dismayed by the lack of beaches—but then they discover Bahia Honda Key. The 524-acre park sprawls across both sides of the highway, giving it 2½ miles of fabulous sandy coastline. The snorkeling isn’t bad, either; there’s underwater life (soft coral, queen conchs, random little fish) just a few hundred feet offshore. Although swimming, kayaking, fishing, and boating are the main reasons to visit, you shouldn’t miss biking along the 2½ miles of flat roads or hiking the Silver Palm Trail, with rare West Indies plants and several species found nowhere else in the nation. Along the way you’ll be treated to a variety of butterflies. Seasonal ranger-led nature programs take place at or depart from the Sand and Sea Nature Center. There are rental cabins, a campground, snack bar, gift shop, 19-slip marina, nature center, and facilities for renting kayaks and arranging snorkeling tours. Get a panoramic view of the island from what’s left of the railroad—the Bahia Honda Bridge. MM 37 OS, 36850 Overseas Hwy. 305/872–2353 www.floridastateparks.org/​park/​Bahia-Honda $4.50 for single occupant vehicle, $8 for vehicle with 2–8 people, plus $0.50 per person up to 8 .

BEACHES

Sandspur Beach. Bahia Honda Key State Beach contains three beaches in all—on both the Atlantic Ocean and the Gulf of Mexico. Sandspur Beach, the largest, is regularly declared the best beach in the Florida Keys, and you’ll be hard-pressed to argue. The sand is baby-powder soft, and the aqua water is warm, clear, and shallow. With their mild currents, the beaches are great for swimming, even with small fry. Amenities: food and drink; showers; toilets; water sports. Best for: snorkeling; swimming. MM 37 OS, 36850 Overseas Hwy. 305/872–2353 www.floridastateparks.org/​park/​Bahia-Honda $4.50 for single-occupant vehicle, $9 for vehicle with 2–8 people .

WHERE TO STAY

Bahia Honda State Park Cabins. $ RENTAL Elsewhere you’d pay big bucks for the wonderful water views available at these cabins on Florida Bay. Each of three cabins have two, two-bedroom units with a full kitchen and bath and air-conditioning (but no television, radio, or phone). Pros: great bay-front views; beachfront camping; affordable rates. Cons: books up fast; area can be buggy. Rooms from: $163 MM 37 OS, 36850 Overseas Hwy. 305/872–2353 , 800/326–3521 www.reserveamerica.com 6 cabins No meals .

SPORTS AND THE OUTDOORS

SCUBA DIVING AND SNORKELING

Bahia Honda Dive Shop. The concessionaire at Bahia Honda State Park manages a 19-slip marina; rents wet suits, snorkel equipment, and corrective masks; and operates twice-a-day offshore-reef snorkel trips. Park visitors looking for other fun can rent kayaks and beach chairs. MM 37 OS, 36850 Overseas Hwy. 305/872–3210 www.bahiahondapark.com Kayak rentals from $10 per hr.; snorkel tours from $30 .

BIG PINE KEY

MM 32–30.

Welcome to the Keys’ most natural holdout, where wildlife refuges protect rare and endangered animals. Here you have left behind the commercialism of the Upper Keys for an authentic backcountry atmosphere. How could things get more casual than Key Largo, you might wonder? Find out by exiting U.S. 1 to explore the habitat of the charmingly diminutive Key deer or cast a line from No Name Bridge. Tours explore the expansive waters of National Key Deer Refuge and Great White Heron National Wildlife Refuge, one of the first such refuges in the country. Along with Key West National Wildlife Refuge, it encompasses more than 200,000 acres of water and more than 8,000 acres of land on 49 small islands. Besides its namesake bird, the Great White Heron National Wildlife Refuge provides habitat for uncounted species of birds and three species of sea turtles. It is the only U.S. breeding site for the endangered hawksbill turtle.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

Most people rent a car to get to Big Pine Key so they can also explore Key West and other parts of the chain.

VISITOR INFORMATION

Contact Big Pine and the Lower Keys Chamber of Commerce. 305/872–2411 , 800/872–3722 www.lowerkeyschamber.com .

EXPLORING

TOP ATTRACTIONS

National Key Deer Refuge. This 84,824-acre refuge was established in 1957 to protect the dwindling population of the Key deer, one of more than 22 animals and plants federally classified as endangered or threatened, including 5 that are found nowhere else on Earth. The Key deer, which stands about 30 inches at the shoulders and is a subspecies of the Virginia white-tailed deer, once roamed throughout the Lower and Middle keys, but hunting, destruction of their habitat, and a growing human population caused their numbers to decline to 27 by 1957. The deer have made a comeback, increasing their numbers to approximately 750. The best place to see Key deer in the refuge is at the end of Key Deer Boulevard and on No Name Key, a sparsely populated island just east of Big Pine Key. Mornings and evenings are the best time to spot them. Deer may turn up along the road at any time of day, so drive slowly. They wander into nearby yards to nibble tender grass and bougainvillea blossom, but locals do not appreciate tourists driving into their neighborhoods after them. Feeding them is against the law and puts them in danger.

A quarry left over from railroad days, the Blue Hole is the largest body of freshwater in the Keys. From the observation platform and nearby walking trail, you might see the resident alligator, turtles, and other wildlife. There are two well-marked trails, recently revamped: the Jack Watson Nature Trail (0.6 mile), named after an environmentalist and the refuge’s first warden; and the Fred Mannillo Nature Trail (0.2 mile), one of the most wheelchair-accessible places to see an unspoiled pine-rockland forest and wetlands. The visitor center has exhibits on Keys biology and ecology. The refuge also provides information on the Key West National Wildlife Refuge and the Great White Heron National Wildlife Refuge. Accessible only by water, both are popular with kayak outfitters. Visitor Center–Headquarters, Big Pine Shopping Center, MM 30.5 BS, 28950 Watson Blvd. 305/872–2239 www.fws.gov/​nationalkeydeer Free .

WHERE TO EAT

Good Food Conspiracy. $ VEGETARIAN Like good wine, this small natural-foods eatery and market surrenders its pleasures a little at a time. Step inside to the aroma of brewing coffee, and then pick up the scent of fresh strawberries or carrots blending into a smoothie, the green aroma of wheatgrass juice, followed by the earthy odor of hummus. Known for: vegetarian and vegan dishes; sandwiches and smoothies; organic items. Average main: $10 MM 30.2 OS, 30150 Overseas Hwy. 305/872–3945 www.goodfoodconspiracy.com No dinner Sun.

No Name Pub. $$ AMERICAN This no-frills honky-tonk has been around since 1936, delighting inveterate locals and intrepid vacationers who come for the excellent pizza, cold beer, and interesting companionship. The decor, such as it is, amounts to the autographed dollar bills that cover every inch of the place. Known for: shrimp pizza and fish sandwich; local and tourist favorite; decor of dollar bills. Average main: $15 MM 30 BS, 30813 Watson Blvd. From U.S. 1, turn west on Wilder Rd., left on South St., right on Ave. B, right on Watson Blvd. 305/872–9115 www.nonamepub.com .

WHERE TO STAY

Big Pine Key Fishing Lodge. $ HOTEL There’s a congenial atmosphere at this lively, family-owned lodge-campground-marina—a happy mix of tent campers (who have the fabulous waterfront real estate), RVers (who look pretty permanent), and motel dwellers who like to mingle at the rooftop pool and challenge each other to a game of poker. Pros: local fishing crowd; nice pool; great price. Cons: RV park is too close to motel; deer will eat your food if you’re camping. Rooms from: $134 MM 33 OS, 33000 Overseas Hwy. 305/872–2351 www.bpkfl.com 16 rooms No meals To protect Key deer, no dogs allowed .

Deer Run Bed & Breakfast. $$$ B&B/INN Innkeepers Jen DeMaria and Harry Appel were way ahead of the green-lodging game when they opened in 2004, and guests love how Key deer wander the grounds of this beachfront B&B on a residential street lined with mangroves. Pros: quiet location; vegan, organic breakfasts; complimentary bikes, kayaks, and state park passes. Cons: price is a bit high; hard to find. Rooms from: $375 MM 33 OS, 1997 Long Beach Dr. 305/872–2015 www.deerrunfloridabb.com 4 rooms Breakfast .

SPORTS AND THE OUTDOORS

BIKING

A good 10 miles of paved roads run from MM 30.3 BS, along Wilder Road, across the bridge to No Name Key, and along Key Deer Boulevard into the National Key Deer Refuge. Along the way you might see some Key deer. Stay off the trails that lead into wetlands, where fat tires can damage the environment.

Big Pine Bicycle Center. Owner Marty Baird is an avid cyclist and enjoys sharing his knowledge of great places to ride. He’s also skilled at selecting the right bike for the journey, and he knows his repairs, too. His old-fashioned single-speed, fat-tire cruisers rent by the half or full day. Helmets, baskets, and locks are included. MM 30.9 BS, 31 County Rd. 305/872–0130 www.bigpinebikes.com From $10 .

FISHING

Cast from No Name Key Bridge or hire a charter to take you into backcountry or deep waters for fishing year-round.

Strike Zone Charters. Glass-bottom-boat excursions venture into the backcountry and Atlantic Ocean. The five-hour Island Excursion emphasizes nature and Keys history; besides close encounters with birds, sea life, and vegetation, there’s a fish cookout on an island. Snorkel and fishing equipment, food, and drinks are included. This is one of the few nature outings in the Keys with wheelchair access. Deep-sea charter rates for up to six people can be arranged for a half or full day. It also offers flats fishing in the Gulf of Mexico. Dive excursions head to the wreck of the 110-foot Adolphus Busch , and scuba and snorkel trips to Looe Key Reef, prime scuba and snorkeling territory, aboard glass-bottom boats. MM 29.6 BS, 29675 Overseas Hwy. 305/872–9863 , 800/654–9560 www.strikezonecharter.com From $38 .

KAYAKING

There’s nothing like the vast expanse of pristine waters and mangrove islands preserved by national refuges from here to Key West. The mazelike terrain can be confusing, so it’s wise to hire a guide at least the first time out.

Big Pine Kayak Adventures. There’s no excuse to skip a water adventure with this convenient kayak rental service, which delivers them to your lodging or anywhere between Seven Mile Bridge and Stock Island. The company, headed by The Florida Keys Paddling Guide author Bill Keogh, will rent you a kayak and then ferry you—called taxi-yakking—to remote islands with clear instructions on how to paddle back on your own. Rentals are by the half day or full day. Three-hour group kayak tours are the cheapest option and explore the mangrove forests of Great White Heron and Key Deer National Wildlife Refuges. More expensive four-hour custom tours transport you to exquisite backcountry areas teeming with wildlife. Kayak fishing charters are also popular. Paddleboard ecotours, rentals, and yoga are available. Old Wooden Bridge Fishing Camp, 1791 Bogie Dr. From MM 30, turn right at traffic light, continue on Wilder Rd. toward No Name Key; the fishing camp is just before the bridge with a big yellow kayak on the sign out front 305/872–7474 www.keyskayaktours.com From $50 .

LITTLE TORCH KEY

MM 29–10.

Little Torch Key and its neighbor islands, Ramrod Key and Summerland Key, are good jumping-off points for divers headed for Looe Key Reef. The islands also serve as a refuge for those who want to make forays into Key West but not stay in the thick of things.

The undeveloped backcountry at your door makes Little Torch Key an ideal location for fishing and kayaking. Nearby Ramrod Key, which also caters to divers bound for Looe Key, derives its name from a ship that wrecked on nearby reefs in the early 1800s.

WHERE TO EAT

Baby’s Coffee. $ AMERICAN The aroma of rich, roasting coffee beans arrests you at the door of “the Southernmost Coffee Roaster in America.” Buy beans by the pound or coffee by the cup, along with sandwiches and sweets. Known for: best coffee in the Keys; gluten-free, vegan, and vegetarian specialty foods. Average main: $8 MM 15 OS, 3180 Overseas Hwy. 305/744–9866 , 800/523–2326 www.babyscoffee.com .

Geiger Key Smokehouse Bar & Grill. $$ AMERICAN There’s a strong hint of the Old Keys at this ocean-side marina restaurant, where local fisherman stop for breakfast before heading out to catch the big one, and everyone shows up on Sunday for the barbecue from 4 to 9. “On the backside of paradise,” as the sign says, its tiki structures overlook quiet mangroves at an RV park marina. Known for: Sunday barbecue. Average main: $16 MM 10, 5 Geiger Key Rd., off Boca Chica Rd., Bay Point 305/296–3553 , 305/294–1230 www.geigerkeymarina.com .

Little Palm Island Restaurant. $$$$ ECLECTIC The restaurant at the exclusive Little Palm Island Resort—its dining room and adjacent outdoor terrace lit by candles and warmed by live music—is one of the most romantic spots in the Keys. However, it’s only open to nonguests on a reservations-only basis and no one under 16 is allowed on the island. Known for: oceanfront tables in the sand; Key deer meandering by your table; Sunday brunch buffet. Average main: $65 MM 28.5 OS, 28500 Overseas Hwy. 305/872–2551 www.littlepalmisland.com .

Mangrove Mama’s Restaurant. $$ SEAFOOD This could be the prototype for a Keys restaurant, given its shanty appearance, lattice trim, and roving sort of indoor-outdoor floor plan. Then there’s the seafood, from the ubiquitous fish sandwich (fried, grilled, broiled, or blackened) to lobster Reubens, crab cakes, and coconut shrimp. Known for: pizza; award-winning conch chowder; all kinds of seafood dishes. Average main: $20 MM 20 BS, Sugarloaf Key 305/745–3030 www.mangrovemam­asrestaurant.com .

Fodor’s Choice Square Grouper. $$$ SEAFOOD In an unassuming warehouse-looking building right off U.S. 1, chef and owner Lynn Bell is creating seafood magic. Just ask the locals, who wait in line for a table along with visitors in the know. But don’t let the exterior fool you: the dining room is surprisingly suave, with butcher paper–lined tables, mandarin-colored walls, and textural components throughout. Known for: everything made fresh, in-house; long lines in season. Average main: $25 MM 22.5 OS, Cudjoe Key 305/745–8880 www.squaregroup­erbarandgrill.com Closed Sun.; Mon. May–Dec.; and Sept.

WHERE TO STAY

Fodor’s Choice Little Palm Island Resort & Spa. $$$$ RESORT Haute tropicale best describes this luxury retreat, and “second mortgage” might explain how some can afford the extravagant prices. Pros: secluded setting; heavenly spa; easy wildlife viewing. Cons: expensive; might be too quiet for some; only accessible by boat or seaplane. Rooms from: $1590 MM 28.5 OS, 28500 Overseas Hwy. 305/872–2524 , 800/343–8567 www.littlepalmisland.com 30 suites Some meals No one under 16 allowed on island .

Looe Key Reef Resort & Center. $ HOTEL If your Keys vacation is all about diving, you won’t mind the no-frills, basic motel rooms with dated furniture at this scuba-obsessed operation because it’s the closest place to stay to the stellar reef. Pros: guests get discounts on dive and snorkel trips; inexpensive rates. Cons: some reports of uncleanliness; unheated pool; close to the road. Rooms from: $115 MM 27.5 OS, 27340 Overseas Hwy., Ramrod Key 305/872–2215 , 877/816–3483 www.diveflakeys.com 23 rooms, 1 suite No meals .

Parmer’s Resort. $ HOTEL Almost every room at this budget-friendly option has a view of South Pine Channel, with the lovely curl of Big Pine Key in the foreground. Pros: bright rooms; pretty setting; good value. Cons: a bit out of the way; housekeeping costs extra; little shade around the pool. Rooms from: $159 MM 28.7 BS, 565 Barry Ave. 305/872–2157 www.parmersresort.com 47 units Breakfast .

SPORTS AND THE OUTDOORS

BOATING

Dolphin Marina. Dolphin Marina rents 19- and 22-foot boats with 150 horsepower for up to eight people by the half day and full day. An on-site marina store has all the supplies you’ll need for a day on the water. 28530 Overseas Hwy. 305/872–2685 www.dolphinmarina.net From $200 half day; from $250 full day .

SCUBA DIVING AND SNORKELING

This is the closest you can get on land to Looe Key Reef, and that’s where local dive operators love to head.

In 1744 the HMS Looe, a British warship, ran aground and sank on one of the most beautiful coral reefs in the Keys. Today the key owes its name to the ill-fated ship. The 5.3-square-nautical-mile reef, part of the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary, has strands of elkhorn coral on its eastern margin, purple sea fans, and abundant sponges and sea urchins. On its seaward side, it drops almost vertically 50 to 90 feet. In its midst, Shipwreck Trail plots the location of nine historic wreck sites in 14 to 120 feet of water. Buoys mark the sites, and underwater signs tell the history of each site and what marine life to expect. Snorkelers and divers will find the sanctuary a quiet place to observe reef life—except in July, when the annual Underwater Music Festival pays homage to Looe Key’s beauty and promotes reef awareness with six hours of music broadcast via underwater speakers. Dive shops, charters, and private boats transport about 500 divers and snorkelers to hear the spectacle, which includes classical, jazz, New Age, and Caribbean music, as well as a little Jimmy Buffett. There are even underwater Elvis impersonators.

Looe Key Reef Resort & Dive Center. This center, the closest dive shop to Looe Key Reef, offers two affordable trips daily, 7:30 am or 12:15 pm (for divers, snorkelers, or bubble watchers). The maximum depth is 30 feet, so snorkelers and divers go on the same boat. Call to check for availability for wreck and night dives. The dive boat, a 45-foot catamaran, is docked at the full-service Looe Key Reef Resort. Looe Key Reef Resort, MM 27.5 OS, 27340 Overseas Hwy., Ramrod Key 305/872–2215 , 877/816–3483 www.diveflakeys.com From $40 .

WATER SPORTS

Reelax Charters. For a guided kayak tour, join Captain Andrea Paulson of Reelax Charters, who takes you to remote locations. Charters carry up to three people and can include snorkeling and beaching on a secluded island in the Keys backcountry. Sugarloaf Marina, MM 17 BS, 17015 Overseas Hwy., Sugarloaf Key 305/304–1392 www.keyskayaking.com From $240 .

Sugarloaf Marina. Rates for one-person kayaks are based on an hourly or daily rental. Two-person kayaks are also available. Delivery is free for rentals of three days or more. The folks at the marina can also hook you up with an outfitter for a day of offshore or backcountry fishing. There’s also a well-stocked ship store. MM 17 BS, 17015 Overseas Hwy., Sugarloaf Key 305/745–3135 www.sugarloafkeymarina.com From $15 per hr .