TOP EXPERIENCES
Shop at the Inn of the Governors: Meet Native American artists and craftspeople selling their wares under the portal of the Inn of the Governors, one of the oldest buildings in town and where Lew Wallace penned parts of Ben Hur.
Attend a festival: Santa Fe loves its festivals and the Plaza is host to all kinds of special gatherings throughout the year, from free concerts and dances to arts and craft and food events; the most popular are the phenomenal International Folk Art Market, the famed Indian Market, and the two-for-one weekend of the Traditional Spanish Market and Contemporary Hispanic Market.
Snap photos: This is downtown Santa Fe, after all, and the opportunities for photographs are limitless. The area’s buildings, trees, and plants change not just with the seasons but by the hour thanks to New Mexico’s famous golden light.
GETTING HERE AND AROUND
Getting to Downtown Santa Fe is easiest by car, although the Rail Runner train connects from downtown Albuquerque to the nearby Santa Fe Railyard. Once in town, there is plenty of metered street parking (it’s free on Sunday and federal holidays), but the most convenient parking options are the bevy of municipal parking garages. These are well-located and allow for longer parking periods than the two-hour street meters. Bonus: your first hour is just one dollar. Once here, the neighborhood is easily navigable by foot.
QUICK BITES
Ecco Gelato and Espresso. This airy café serves delicious and creative gelato flavors (think strawberry-habanero, brandied cherry, and fig-and-walnut). Or try some of the espressos and coffees, pastries, and panini sandwiches. 128 E. Marcy St., The Plaza www.eccogelato.com
La Lecheria. Delicious and refreshing craft ice cream is made here, with local ingredients, in flavors ranging from Cracker Jack and citrus basil to habanero vanilla and coconut miso. 101 W. Marcy St., Downtown www.lalecherianm.com
Madame Matisse On-the-Go. This take-out spot features tasty sandwiches and baked goods from one of Santa Fe’s favorite bakeries. 105 E. Marcy St., Downtown
There is no other city like it in the world and its unique blend of art, imagination, and culture has earned it an official Creative City designation from UNESCO and solidified its standing as a favorite filming location for various television shows and movies. To top things off, downtown Santa Fe is home to some of the region’s finest restaurants and people-watching, all thanks to its unique local flavor.
Much of the history of Santa Fe, New Mexico, the Southwest, and even the West has some association with Santa Fe’s central Plaza, which New Mexico governor Don Pedro de Peralta laid out in 1610. The Plaza was already well established by the time of the Pueblo revolt in 1680. Freight wagons unloaded here after completing their arduous journey across the Santa Fe Trail. The American flag was raised over the Plaza in 1846, during the Mexican War, which resulted in Mexico’s loss of all its territories in the present Southwestern United States. For a time the Plaza was a tree-shaded park with a white picket fence. In the 1890s it was an expanse of lawn where uniformed bands played in an ornate gazebo. Particularly festive times on the Plaza are the weekend after Labor Day, during Las Fiestas de Santa Fe, on Indigenous Peoples Day in October (which brings dance celebrations), and during the winter holidays, when all the trees are filled with lights and rooftops are outlined with farolitos, votive candles lit within paper-bag lanterns.
It was along the Old Santa Fe Trail that wagon trains from Missouri rolled into town in the 1820s, forever changing Santa Fe’s destiny. This street, off the south corner of the Plaza, is one of Santa Fe’s most historic and is dotted with houses, shops, markets, and the (relatively modern) state capitol several blocks down.
Though Santa Fe is the oldest capital city in the United States, many considered it little more than a pass-through town of mud and livestock corrals until the early 1900s, when a group of anthropologists, archaeologists, and artists formed a powerful community alliance to lead Santa Fe into a new era of tourism. These scholars and political influencers, which included archaeologists Adolf Bandelier and Kenneth Chapman, led the charge to preserve and promote Santa Fe’s characteristic adobe architecture as a way to attract tourists interested in northern New Mexico’s unique cultural and historical treasures. This group, also responsible for the founding of the Museum of New Mexico, paved the way for the “City Different” of today.
With its eclectic mix of museums, shops, galleries, restaurants, and more, downtown Santa Fe can take days to explore thoroughly. A good way to plan for a visit is to start in the historic central Plaza and work your way out from there or, plan one day for museums, another for sights, and another for shopping. Downtown Santa Fe is lively both day and night so it’s easy to start exploring in the morning and still be going as night falls. To ensure you get a real “taste” of the area, make reservations for dinner as restaurants tend to fill up quickly with both locals and visitors—one of the reasons some call Santa Fe “the city that never stops eating”.
Sights
Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi
RELIGIOUS SITE | This iconic cathedral, a block east of the Plaza, is one of the rare significant departures from the city’s nearly ubiquitous Pueblo architecture. Construction was begun in 1869 by Jean Baptiste Lamy, Santa Fe’s first archbishop, who worked with French architects and Italian stonemasons. The Romanesque style was popular in Lamy’s native home in southwest France. The circuit-riding cleric was sent by the Catholic Church to the Southwest to change the religious practices of its native population (to “civilize” them, as one period document puts it) and is buried in the crypt beneath the church’s high altar. He was the inspiration behind Willa Cather’s novel Death Comes for the Archbishop (1927). In 2005 Pope Benedict XVI declared St. Francis the “cradle of Catholicism” in the Southwestern United States, and upgraded the status of the building from mere cathedral to cathedral basilica—one of just 36 in the country.
A small adobe chapel on the northeast side of the cathedral, the remnant of an earlier church, embodies the Hispanic architectural influence so conspicuously absent from the cathedral itself. The chapel’s Nuestra Señora de la Paz (Our Lady of Peace), popularly known as La Conquistadora, the oldest Madonna statue in the United States, accompanied Don Diego de Vargas on his reconquest of Santa Fe in 1692, a feat attributed to the statue’s spiritual intervention. Every Friday the faithful adorn the statue with a new dress. Take a close look at the keystone in the main doorway arch: it has a Hebrew tetragrammaton on it. It’s widely speculated that Bishop Lamy had this carved and placed to honor the Jewish merchants of Santa Fe who helped provide necessary funds for the construction of the church. 131 Cathedral Pl., The Plaza 505/982–5619 www.cbsfa.org.
MUSEUM | One of many East Coast artists who visited New Mexico in the first half of the 20th century, Georgia O’Keeffe, today known as the “Mother of American Modernism,” returned to live and paint in northern New Mexico for the last half of her life, eventually emerging as the demigoddess of Southwestern art. At this museum dedicated to her work, you’ll find how O’Keeffe’s innovative view of the landscape is captured in From the Plains, inspired by her memory of the Texas plains, and in Jimson Weed, a study of one of her favorite plants; additional highlights include selections from O’Keeffe’s early days as an illustrator, abstract pieces from her time in New York City, and iconic works featuring floating skulls, flowers, and bones. Special exhibitions with O’Keeffe’s modernist peers, as well as contemporary artists, are on view throughout the year—many of these are exceptional, and just as interesting as the museum’s permanent collection, which numbers some 3,000 works. The museum also manages a visitor center and tours of O’Keeffe’s famous home and studio in Abiquiú, about an hour north of Santa Fe. 217 Johnson St., The Plaza 505/946–1000 www.okeeffemuseum.org $13.
La Fonda
BUILDING | A fonda (inn) has stood on this site, southeast of the Plaza, for centuries and architect Isaac Hamilton Rapp, who put Santa Fe style on the map, built the area landmark that stands there today in 1922. The hotel was sold to the Santa Fe Railway in 1926 and remained a Harvey House hotel until 1968. The property completed its latest major renovation in 2013, its guest rooms receiving a smart but still classic makeover, but the historic public areas retain their original design elements. Because of its proximity to the Plaza and its history as a gathering place for everyone from cowboys to movie stars (Errol Flynn stayed here), it’s referred to as “The Inn at the End of the Trail.” Free guided tours, which touch on the hotel’s rich history and detail key pieces in the astounding public art collection, are offered Wednesday through Saturday morning at 10:30. Step inside to browse the shops on the main floor or to eat at one of the restaurants, including the impressive greenhouse glass-topped La Plazuela. The dark, cozy bar draws both locals and tourists and has live music many nights. For a real treat have a drink at the fifth-floor Bell Tower Bar (open late spring through late fall), which offers tremendous sunset views. 100 E. San Francisco St., at Old Santa Fe Trail, The Plaza 505/982–5511 www.lafondasantafe.com.
Loretto Chapel
RELIGIOUS SITE | A delicate Gothic church modeled after Sainte-Chapelle in Paris, Loretto was built in 1878 by the same French architects and Italian stonemasons who built St. Francis Cathedral, and is known for the “Miraculous Staircase” that leads to the choir loft. Legend has it that the chapel was almost complete when it became obvious that there wasn’t room to build a staircase to the choir loft. In answer to the prayers of the cathedral’s nuns, a mysterious carpenter arrived on a donkey, built a 20-foot staircase (using only a square, a saw, and a tub of water to season the non-native wood) and then disappeared as quickly as he came. Many of the faithful believed it was St. Joseph himself. The staircase contains two complete 360-degree turns with no central support; no nails were used in its construction. Adjoining the chapel are a small museum and gift shop. 207 Old Santa Fe Trail, Old Santa Fe Trail and South Capitol 505/982–0092 www.lorettochapel.com $3 May close without advance notice for special events.
Manitou Galleries
MUSEUM | This respected gallery near the Plaza carries mostly contemporary representational paintings and sculptures by world-class artists such as Jie-Wei Zhou and Martha Pettigrew as well as impressive works by local and Native artists including Hib Sabin, Nocona Burgess, and B. C. Nowlin. There’s also a nice collection of photographs by Edward Curtis. Manitou has a second location, every bit as lovely, at 225 Canyon Road. It’s hard to miss either location, thanks to the beautiful bronze sculptures outside. 123 W. Palace Ave., The Plaza 505/986–0440 www.facebook.com/manitougalleries.
Monroe Gallery
MUSEUM | In this attractive storefront space a couple of blocks from the Plaza, you can admire works by the most celebrated black-and-white photographers of the 20th century, including Margaret Bourke-White, Grey Villet, and Alfred Eisenstaedt. The focus is on humanist and photojournalist-style photography, and many iconic images are available for purchase. 112 Don Gaspar Ave., The Plaza 505/992–0800 www.monroegallery.com.
Museum of Contemporary Native Arts (MoCNA)
MUSEUM | This fascinating museum that’s part of the esteemed Institute of American Indian Arts (IAIA) is just a block from the Plaza and contains the largest collection—some 7,500 works—of contemporary Native American art in the United States. The collection of paintings, photography, sculptures, prints, and traditional crafts was created by past and present students and teachers. In the 1960s and 1970s it blossomed into the nation’s premier center for Native American arts and its alumni represent almost 600 tribes around the country. The museum continues to showcase the cultural and artistic vibrancy of indigenous people and expands what is still an often limited public perception of what “Indian” art is and can be. Be sure to step out back to the beautiful sculpture garden. Artist Fritz Scholder taught here, as did sculptor Allan Houser. Among their disciples were the painter T. C. Cannon and sculptor and painter Dan Namingha. 108 Cathedral Pl., The Plaza 505/983–8900, 888/922–4242 www.iaia.edu $10 Closed Tues.
MUSEUM | FAMILY | This impressive, modern museum anchors a campus that encompasses the Palace of the Governors, the Palace Print Shop & Bindery, the Fray Angélico Chávez History Library, and Photo Archives (an assemblage of more than 1 million images dating from the 1850s). Behind the palace on Lincoln Avenue, the museum thoroughly explores the early history of indigenous people, Spanish colonization, the Mexican Period, and travel and commerce on the legendary Santa Fe Trail. Inside are changing and permanent exhibits. By appointment, visitors can tour the comprehensive Fray Angélico Chávez Library and its rare maps, manuscripts, and photographs (more than 120,000 prints and negatives). The Palace Print Shop & Bindery, which prints books, pamphlets, and cards on antique presses, also hosts bookbinding demonstrations, lectures, and slide shows. The Palace of the Governors is a humble one-story neo-Pueblo adobe on the north side of the Plaza, and is the oldest public building in the United States. Its rooms contain period furnishings and exhibits illustrating the building’s many functions over the past four centuries. Built at the same time as the Plaza, circa 1610, it was the seat of four regional governments—those of Spain, Mexico, the Confederacy, and the U.S. territory that preceded New Mexico’s statehood, which was achieved in 1912. It served as the residence for 100 Spanish, Mexican, and American governors, including Governor Lew Wallace, who wrote his epic Ben Hur in its then drafty rooms, all the while complaining of the dust and mud that fell from its earthen ceiling.
Dozens of Native American vendors gather daily under the portal of the Palace of the Governors to sell pottery, jewelry, bread, and other goods. With few exceptions, the more than 500 artists and craftspeople registered to sell here are Pueblo or Navajo Indians. The merchandise for sale is required to meet strict standards. Prices tend to reflect the high quality of the merchandise but are often significantly less than what you’d pay in a shop. Please remember not to take photographs without permission. Palace Ave., north side of Plaza, 113 Lincoln Ave., The Plaza 505/476–5200 www.nmhistorymuseum.org $12 Closed Nov.–Apr., closed Mon.
New Mexico Museum of Art
MUSEUM | Designed by Isaac Hamilton Rapp in 1917, the museum contains one of America’s finest regional collections. It’s also one of Santa Fe’s earliest Pueblo Revival structures, inspired by the adobe structures at Acoma Pueblo. Split-cedar latillas (branches set in a crosshatch pattern) and hand-hewn vigas form the ceilings. The 20,000-piece permanent collection, of which only a fraction is exhibited at any given time, emphasizes the work of regional and nationally renowned artists, including Georgia O’Keeffe; realist Robert Henri; the Cinco Pintores (five painters) of Santa Fe (including Fremont Elis and Will Shuster, the creative mind behind Zozóbra); members of the Taos Society of Artists (Ernest L. Blumenschein, Bert G. Phillips, Joseph H. Sharp, and E. Irving Couse, among others); and the works of noted 20th-century photographers of the Southwest, including Laura Gilpin, Ansel Adams, and Dorothea Lange. Rotating exhibits are staged throughout the year. Many excellent examples of Spanish-colonial-style furniture are on display. Other highlights include an interior placita (small plaza) with fountains, WPA murals, and sculpture, and the St. Francis Auditorium, where concerts and lectures are often held. 107 W. Palace Ave., The Plaza 505/476–5072 www.nmartmuseum.org $12 Closed Nov.–Apr. and Mon.
Sena Plaza
PLAZA | Two-story buildings enclose this courtyard, which can be entered only through two small doorways on Palace Avenue or the shops facing Palace Avenue. Surrounding the oasis of flowering fruit trees, a fountain, and inviting benches are a variety of locally owned shops. The quiet courtyard is a good place for repose or to have lunch at La Casa Sena. The buildings, erected in the 1700s as a single-family residence, had quarters for blacksmiths, bakers, farmers, and all manner of help. 125 E. Palace Ave., The Plaza.
Restaurants
$$$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | The expert culinary team at this romantic restaurant with hardwood floors, soft lighting, and Chaco Valley stone–inspired walls balances old-world techniques with Southwestern spice in its approach to the menu. If you want a less formal vibe, dine in the more spacious, convivial bar or on the lively streetside patio. Known for: always excellent seasonally changing menu; exceptional craft cocktails; extensive wine and tequila lists. Average main: $36 Rosewood Inn of the Anasazi, 113 Washington Ave., The Plaza 505/988–3030 www.rosewoodhotels.com/en/inn-of-the-anasazi-santa-fe/dining/anasazi-restaurant.
Cafe Pasqual’s
$$$ | SOUTHWESTERN | A perennial favorite, this cheerful cubbyhole dishes up Nuevo Latino and occasional Asian specialties for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. The culinary muse behind Pasqual’s is James Beard Award–winning chef and cookbook author Katharine Kagel, who champions organic, local ingredients, and whose expert kitchen staff produces mouthwatering breakfast and lunch specialties like huevos motuleños (eggs in a tangy tomatillo salsa with black beans and fried bananas) and the sublime grilled free-range chicken sandwich on toasted-chile corn bread. Known for: smoked-trout hash with tomatillo salsa and mole enchiladas; colorful folk art and murals; long waits with reservations only available for dinner. Average main: $30 121 Don Gaspar Ave., The Plaza 505/983–9340 www.pasquals.com.
Coyote Cafe
$$$$ | SOUTHWESTERN | A Santa Fe hot spot since it opened in 1987, this pioneer of contemporary Southwestern cuisine is enjoying a bit of a renaissance under the guidance of new-ish (since 2017) owner and long-time bartender/manager Quinn Stephenson. The spot serves some of the most extravagant and delicious cuisine in the city. Known for: tellicherry peppered elk tenderloin; Frito pies in the less expensive Coyote Cantina next-door; creative agave and tequila cocktails. Average main: $39 132 W. Water St., The Plaza 505/983–1615 www.coyotecafe.com No lunch.
El Mesón Restaurant & Tapas Bar
$$$ | SPANISH | This place is as fun for having drinks and late-night tapas or catching live music (from tango nights to Sephardic music) as it is for enjoying a full meal. The lively tapas bar feels like a Spanish taberna, with a menu that includes dishes like classic Tortilla Española with alioli or fried artichoke hearts stuffed with Spanish goat cheese over romesco sauce. Known for: live jazz, Flamenco, and Tango Tuesdays; paella à la Valenciana with seafood, chorizo, and chicken; nice selection of Spanish wines, including Jerez sherries. Average main: $25 213 Washington Ave., The Plaza 505/983–6756 www.elmeson-santafe.com Closed Sun. and Mon. No lunch.
$$$ | ITALIAN | This chef-owned neighborhood spot near the Plaza charms its legions of fans with pasta dishes like pappardelle with braised duckling ragù and homemade pumpkin ravioli with pine nuts and sage brown butter. The menu, which usually features several creative specials, emphasizes locally sourced ingredients. Known for: informal trattoria atmosphere; “medium plates” option on pastas and entrées; great late afternoon happy hour. Average main: $27 95 W. Marcy St., The Plaza 505/984–1091 www.ilpiattosantafe.com No lunch Sat.–Tues.
$$$ | SPANISH | A beacon of superbly crafted, authentic yet creatively updated Mediterranean—and especially Spanish—cuisine, La Boca comprises two distinct spaces: an intimate and quieter storefront dining room that’s better for a leisurely romantic repast, and in back, spilling out into a cloistered courtyard, Taberna, a bustling tavern with live music, ample seating indoor and out, and late hours. Both spaces feature the delectable small-plates cooking of celebrated chef James Cambpell Caruso. Known for: fine Spanish meats and cheeses; extensive selection of authentic Spanish tapas; nice variety of Spanish sherries. Average main: $26 72 W. Marcy St., The Plaza 505/982–3433 www.labocasantafe.com.
$$$ | CONTEMPORARY | The Southwestern-accented and Continental fare served at La Casa Sena is beautifully presented, and the scenery, especially during the warmer months, is part of the charm. Get a table on the patio surrounded by hollyhocks, flowering shrubs, and centuries-old adobe walls, or for a musical meal (evenings only), sit in the restaurant’s adjacent, less-pricey Cantina, where the talented and perky staff belt out Broadway show tunes. Known for: grilled rack of lamb; gorgeous patio; on-site wine shop. Average main: $30 Sena Plaza, 125 E. Palace Ave., The Plaza 505/988–9232 lacasasena.com.
$$$$ | AMERICAN | Locals go crazy for this steak house, partly thanks to the chef and co-owner, who earned her chops as a World Champion rodeo roper before moving into the culinary limelight. The steak house brings together flavors from New Mexico and Texas, with a light touch of classic old-world finesse. Known for: expertly cooked steak; delicious and creative sides, sauces, and starters; quality cocktails and wines. Average main: $40 Hotel St. Francis, 210 Don Gaspar Ave., The Plaza 505/992–6354 www.marketsteersteakhouse.com Closed Mon.
$$ | SOUTHWESTERN | FAMILY | Run with homespun care by the Razatos family since 1947, this café has been a fixture on the Plaza since 1905. The food runs the gamut, from cashew mole enchiladas to New Mexico meat loaf to chile-smothered burritos to a handful of Greek favorites, but the ingredients tend toward Southwestern. Known for: chicken-fried steak and excellent tortilla soup; retro diner charm; breakfast all day. Average main: $17 54 Lincoln Ave., The Plaza 505/982–1664 www.plazacafesantafe.com.
$$ | PIZZA | For sophisticated pizza, head to this slick indoor–outdoor restaurant on the upper level of Santa Fe Arcade. The kitchen here scores high marks for its rich and imaginative pizza toppings: consider the one topped with roasted chicken, green chile, toasted piñons, cotija and asadero cheese, and alfredo sauce on a blue corn crust. Known for: unusual pizza toppings; great salads; well-chosen wine and microbrew beer list. Average main: $16 60 E. San Francisco St., The Plaza 505/984–0008 rooftoppizzeria.com.
$$$$ | MODERN MEXICAN | The realm of Mexico City–born chef Fernando Olea, who’s been working his culinary magic at different Santa Fe restaurants since 1991, Sazón offers an upscale take on regional Mexican fare, complete with an exhaustive list of artisan tequilas and mezcals. Within the handsome dining room warmed by a kiva fireplace and filled with Frida Kahlo and Day of the Dead–inspired artwork, the focus is on one of Mexico’s greatest dishes, mole. Known for: house-made mole sauces; chapulines (baby grasshoppers) on corn taquitos; encyclopedic selection of artisan mezcals. Average main: $37 221 Shelby St., The Plaza 505/983–8604 www.sazonsantafe.com Closed Sun. No lunch.
$ | SOUTHWESTERN | FAMILY | The lines at lunch attest to the status of this Downtown eatery that’s been family operated since 1953, serving some of the most flavorful New Mexican food, and margaritas, around. Even if you’re a devoted green-chile sauce fan, consider trying the locally grown red chile the place is famous for; it is rich and perfectly spicy. Known for: red-chile enchiladas and posole; potent margaritas; historic adobe setting dating from 1692. Average main: $14 113½ E. Palace Ave., The Plaza 505/982–9030 www.sfshed.com Closed Sun.
35 North Coffee
$ | CAFÉ | There are plenty of spots near the Plaza for grabbing a latte, but this coffeehouse stands out for brewing exceptional house-roasted, single-origin coffees from Guatamala, Kenya, Sumatra, and other java hot spots around the world. You can order a pour-over made with beans of your choosing, or sample the house-made chai, nitro cold brew, and “latitude adjustment” (coffee blended with organic grass-fed butter, MCT oil, and coconut oil). Known for: high-grade single-origin coffees; house-made chai; breakfast croissants. Average main: $6 60 E. San Francisco St., The Plaza 505/983–6138 www.35northcoffee.com No dinner.
$ | SOUTHWESTERN | FAMILY | This family-run Downtown joint has been starting Santa Feans’ days right since 1974, serving some of the area’s best New Mexican breakfasts and lunches (it’s open until 2 pm most days and 1 on Sunday). Order anything and expect a true taste of local tradition, including perfectly flaky, light sopaipilla; Tia’s delicious burritos stuffed with homemade chorizo disappear fast on Saturday so get there early. Known for: huge breakfast burritos; popularity with locals; traditional New Mexican cuisine, down to the fiery chiles. Average main: $9 210 W. San Francisco St., The Plaza 505/983–9880 tiasophias.com No dinner.
Hotels
$$ | HOTEL | FAMILY | This large, yet inviting, hotel comes with individually decorated rooms and stunning mountain views. Pros: attractive accommodations three blocks from Plaza; great view from rooftop pool (especially at sunset); fun bar with great late-night food menu. Cons: staff’s attention to service varies considerably; can be very expensive during busy periods; convention space can make it feel impersonal. Rooms from: $160 309 W. San Francisco St., The Plaza 505/988–4455, 800/955–4455 www.eldoradohotel.com 213 rooms No meals.
$$ | HOTEL | FAMILY | Among the handful of midprice, full-service hotels within a couple of blocks of the Plaza, this attractive, Territorial-style adobe hotel with a mix of spacious standard rooms and even bigger suites is a terrific option, especially given the extensive amenities available in many units—wet bars, kitchenettes, spacious sitting areas. Pros: unbeatable location; spacious rooms and extensive in-room perks are nice for families or groups; offers free Downtown walking tours May–October. Cons: in a crowded part of Downtown; no pool or gym; can have some street noise. Rooms from: $140 125 Washington Ave., The Plaza 505/988–4900, 855/752–9273 www.hotelchimayo.com 54 rooms No meals.
$$ | HOTEL | Just one block south of the Plaza, this stately three-story hotel retains a historic vibe but has been given a modern flair—with expansive stone floors, plaster walls, and spare furnishings lit by massive pillar candles at night, the lobby feels a bit like a Tuscan monastery. Pros: stylish, contemporary vibe in a historic building; two blocks from the Plaza and near many shops; excellent dining and nightlife on-site. Cons: breakfast not included; some rooms (and especially bathrooms) are quite small; some rooms can have noise from the street. Rooms from: $140 210 Don Gaspar Ave., The Plaza 505/983–5700 www.hotelstfrancis.com 80 rooms No meals.
$$ | HOTEL | FAMILY | This plush, oft-photographed, pueblo-inspired property attracts a loyal clientele, many of whom swear by the friendly staff and high decorating standards. Pros: ideal location; gorgeous grounds and pool; distinctive architecture. Cons: expensive parking and resort fees; bathrooms feel a bit ordinary, small, and dated, and they also lack counter space; some rooms can have noise from the road. Rooms from: $170 211 Old Santa Fe Trail, The Plaza 505/988–5531 www.hotelloretto.com 134 rooms No meals.
$$ | HOTEL | FAMILY | This rambling, reasonably priced hotel by the Santa Fe River is staffed by a polite, enthusiastic bunch. Pros: close to Plaza; year-round, heated pool; free parking (unusual for Downtown). Cons: standard rooms are a bit small; some rooms view parking lot; some traffic noise. Rooms from: $179 101 W. Alameda St., The Plaza 505/982–4333, 800/234–4534 www.innofthegovernors.com 100 rooms Free Breakfast.
$$$ | HOTEL | FAMILY | This venerable Downtown landmark comes with modern amenities but still retains a warm, artful design—including whimsical painted headboards and handcrafted furniture—that’s faithful to the vision of Mary Elizabeth Jane Colter, the vaunted architect responsible for the hotel’s elegant Southwestern aesthetic. Pros: iconic building steeped in history; Plaza is right outside the door; excellent restaurant, bars, and pool. Cons: lobby often packed with tourists and nonguests; fitness facilities are modest for an upscale hotel; busy downtown location means some noise. Rooms from: $269 100 E. San Francisco St., The Plaza 505/982–5511, 800/523–5002 www.lafondasantafe.com 180 rooms No meals.
$$$$ | HOTEL | This intimate and artfully designed boutique hotel steps from the Plaza is one of Santa Fe’s finest, with superb architectural detail, top-notch service, and a much-celebrated restaurant, bar, and lounge. Pros: thoughtful luxurious touches throughout; superb restaurant and charming bar; beautiful, lodgelike public spaces that are ideal for conversation or curling up with a book. Cons: standard rooms are a bit small for the price; only a few rooms have balconies; no hot tub or pool. Rooms from: $450 113 Washington Ave., The Plaza 505/988–3030, 888/767–3966 www.rosewoodhotels.com 58 rooms No meals.
Nightlife
Agave Restaurant & Lounge
BARS/PUBS | The bar of the Agave restaurant located within the Eldorado Hotel is stylish and contemporary, making it just as much of a hit with locals and nonguests as with those staying on the property. The well-made cocktails, smart decor, happy hour deals, and stellar late-night bar-food menu—from snacks to burgers—are among Agave’s key assets. Eldorado Hotel, 309 W. San Francisco St., The Plaza 505/995–4530 www.eldoradohotel.com/agave-lounge.
Bell Tower Bar
BARS/PUBS | The lofty rooftop perch at historic Hotel La Fonda is open only from mid-spring through mid-fall, but during the warmer months it’s one of the loveliest places in town to sip cocktails while watching the sunset and surrounding mountains. The views make it a popular spot so try and get there during the off-hours to snag a table. Year-round, you can also enjoy outstanding margaritas and tasty bar food in lively La Fiesta Lounge, just off the hotel lobby, which also features live music. La Fonda Hotel, 100 E. San Francisco St., The Plaza 505/982–5511 www.lafondasantafe.com.
Del Charro
BARS/PUBS | The laid-back saloon at Downtown’s Inn of the Governors serves a fine green-chile cheeseburger, plus quality margaritas and the like. It’s less fancy than some of the other hotel bars in town, with old-fashioned Western decor, dark-wood paneling (warmed by the glow of a wood-burning fireplace), and an airy patio. Inn of the Governors, 101 W. Alameda St., The Plaza 505/954–0320 www.delcharro.com.
Draft Station
BREWPUBS/BEER GARDENS | FAMILY | Beer aficionados can sample a variety of New Mexican craft brews—including selections from Marble Brewery, La Cumbre, Bosque Brewing, and Chama River Brewing—at this no-frills spot with a large balcony overlooking the Plaza. In addition to the fine people-watching from the balcony, you can order tasty pizza from Rooftop Pizzeria, which is just down the hall and makes a great cornmeal crust. 60 E. San Francisco St., Santa Fe Arcade, 2nd fl., The Plaza 505/983–6443 draft-station.com.
Secreto Lounge
BARS/PUBS | This beautifully designed bar inside the historic Hotel St. Francis has long been known for its creative craft cocktails, including a classic Manhattan with a clove tincture spritzed over the top as well as a smoked-sage margarita. There’s a nice selection of appetizers and light entrées and you can also sample superb New Mexico wines at Gruet Winery’s Tasting Room, just across the hotel lobby. Hotel St. Francis, 210 Don Gaspar Ave., The Plaza 505/983–5700 www.hotelstfrancis.com.
Tonic
BARS/PUBS | At this intimate, high-ceilinged bar with a dapper art deco interior, you can sip deftly crafted cocktails and listen to some of the best jazz acts in town. It’s one of the few late-night spots serving bar food until 1 most evenings. 103 E. Water St., The Plaza 505/982–1189 www.tonicsantafe.com.
El Flamenco
DANCE | Several organizations produce flamenco concerts around town, including the prestigious Entreflamenco Company, which performs at El Flamenco restaurant a few blocks from the Plaza. 135 W. Palace Ave., The Plaza 505/209–1302 www.entreflamenco.com.
CONCERTS | Santa Fe’s vintage Downtown movie house has been fully restored and converted into the 850-seat Lensic Performing Arts Center. The grand 1931 building, with Moorish and Spanish Renaissance influences, hosts the Santa Fe Symphony, theater, classic films, lectures and readings, noted world, pop, and jazz musicians, and many other prominent events. 211 W. San Francisco St., The Plaza 505/988–1234 www.lensic.org.
Performance Santa Fe
CONCERTS | From September through May, the venerable organization (aka Santa Fe Concert Association) founded in 1937 presents symphony and solo classical concerts, lectures, dance recitals, opera, and family-minded shows at several venues around town, including the Lensic, St. Francis Auditorium, and United Church of Santa Fe. The organization has brought a number of prestigious talents to Santa Fe over the years, including Wynton Marsalis, Patti Lupone, the Russian National Ballet, and the Academy of St. Martin in the Fields Chamber Ensemble. Santa Fe 505/984–8759 www.performancesantafe.org.
MUSIC | Tuesday through Saturday night throughout July and August, free concerts are staged at the bandstand in Downtown’s festive and historic Plaza or occasionally at Swan Park on the South Side (off NM 599). A number of nationally noteworthy artists have appeared for this event, where the music ranges from Spanish guitar to blues to rockabilly. The Plaza 505/986–6054 www.santafebandstand.org.
St. Francis Auditorium
CONCERTS | This historic space with colorful murals inside the Museum of Fine Arts is a top venue for many cultural events, such as theatrical productions and concerts. 107 W. Palace Ave., The Plaza 505/476–5072 www.nmartmuseum.org.
ANTIQUES
Arrediamo
HOUSEHOLD ITEMS/FURNITURE | One of the top spots in the Southwest for handmade Turkish, Persian, and Afghan rugs, Arrediamo also carries a fine selection of authentic Navajo rugs and textiles. 202 Galisteo St., The Plaza 505/820–2231 www.arrediamo.com.
Design Warehouse
ANTIQUES/COLLECTIBLES | A welcome antidote to Santa Fe’s preponderance of shops selling Native American and Spanish-colonial antiques, Design Warehouse carries hip, contemporary furniture, kitchenware, home accessories, and other sleek knickknacks, including vaunted brands like Alessi, Knoll, and Normann Copenhagen. Note the select collection of books and magazines focusing on art and design. 130 Lincoln Ave., The Plaza 505/988–1555 www.designwarehousesantafe.com.
BOOKS
Collected Works Book Store & Coffeehouse
BOOKS/STATIONERY | You’ll find a great selection of art and travel books here, including a generous selection of titles on Southwestern art, architecture, and general history, as well as the latest in contemporary literature. In a large, inviting space close to the Plaza, you can also enjoy organic lattes, snacks, and sandwiches by the superb Iconik Coffee Roasters. Author readings and music are frequently scheduled so be sure to check the calendar. The proprietress, Dorothy Massey, and her staff are well loved for their knowledge and helpfulness. 202 Galisteo St., The Plaza 505/988–4226 www.collectedworksbookstore.com.
Travel Bug
BOOKS/STATIONERY | Here you’ll find a huge array of guides and books about travel along with maps. You’ll also find all sorts of gadgets for hikers and backpackers. There’s also a cozy coffeehouse (excellent java) with Wi-Fi. On many Saturday evenings the shop hosts presentations on world travel experiences. 839 Paseo de Peralta, The Plaza 505/992–0418 www.mapsofnewmexico.com.
CLOTHING AND ACCESSORIES
Back at the Ranch
CLOTHING | This cozy space in an old, creaky-floored adobe is stocked with perhaps the finest handmade cowboy boots you will ever see—in every color, style, and embellishment imaginable. Other finds, like funky ranch-style furniture, 1950s blanket coats, jewelry, and belt buckles are also sold. The staff is top-notch and the boots are breathtaking. 209 E. Marcy St., The Plaza 505/989–8110 www.backattheranch.com.
O’Farrell Hats
CLOTHING | Scott O’Farrell (son of the shop’s late founder, Kevin) and his highly trained staff carry on the tradition of producing carefully designed and constructed classic Western hats. The one-of-a-kind beaver-felt cowboy hats make the ultimate Santa Fe keepsake. This level of quality comes at a cost, but devoted customers—who have included everyone from cattle ranchers to U.S. presidents—swear by O’Farrell’s artful creations. 111 E. San Francisco St., The Plaza 505/989–9666 www.ofarrellhatco.com.
Red River Mercantile
CLOTHING | This small but well-stocked space is one of the best spots in town for rugged and stylish—but casual—men’s wear, along with backpacks, computer bags, watches, wallets, and other accessories. Well-established brands like Filson, Pendleton, Howler Brothers, and Grayer’s fill the aisles, and the staff is extremely helpful. 235 Don Gaspar Ave., The Plaza 505/992–1233.
FOOD AND DRINK
Todos Santos Chocolates
FOOD/CANDY | This tiny candy shop in the 18th-century courtyard of Sena Plaza sells must-be-seen-to-be-believed works of edible art, including chocolate milagros and altar pieces gilded with 23-karat gold or silver leaf. Truffles come in exotic flavors, like tangerine chile, rose caramel, and lemon verbena. The buttery, spicy, handmade chipotle caramels melt in your mouth. Amidst the taste sensations and quirky folk art are amazing and delightful customized Pez dispensers from Albuquerque folk artist Steve White and astonishing, intricate recycled paper creations from local phenom Rick Phelps. 125 E. Palace Ave., The Plaza 505/982–3855.
HOME GOODS AND GIFTS
Doodlet’s
ANTIQUES/COLLECTIBLES | The whimsical collection of stuff here includes pop-up books, silly postcards, tin art, hooked rugs, and stringed lights. Wonderment is in every display case, drawing the eye to the unusual. There’s something for just about everyone at this delightfully quirky, popular shop, and often it’s affordable. 120 Don Gaspar Ave., The Plaza 505/983–3771 doodlets.com.
Sub Rosa Mercantile
CRAFTS | This charming lifestyle-centric shop features a carefully curated selection of home goods, clothing, cards, bath and body products, jewelry, vintage finds, and more. The focus here is on hand-crafted, small batch items created primarily by women-owned businesses. 65 W. Marcy St., The Plaza 505/428–9528 www.subrosamercantile.com.
JEWELRY
LewAllen & LewAllen Jewelry
JEWELRY/ACCESSORIES | Father-and-daughter silversmiths Ross and Laura LewAllen run this impressive shop. Handmade jewelry ranges from whimsical to mystical inside their tiny space just off the Plaza. There’s something for absolutely everyone in here, including delightful charms for your pet’s collar. 105 E. Palace Ave., The Plaza 800/988–5112, 505/983–2657 www.lewallenjewelry.com.
Patina Gallery
JEWELRY/ACCESSORIES | In this airy, museum-like space, you’ll find outstanding contemporary jewelry, textiles, and sculptural objects of metal, clay, and wood. With a staff whose courtesy is matched by knowledge of the genre, artists-owners Ivan and Allison Barnett have used their fresh curatorial aesthetic to create a showplace for dozens of American and European artists they represent—many of whom are in permanent collections of museums such as MoMA. 131 W. Palace Ave., The Plaza 505/986–3432 www.patina-gallery.com.
NATIVE AMERICAN ARTS AND CRAFTS
Andrea Fisher Fine Pottery
CERAMICS/GLASSWARE | You can browse, and buy, some of the nation’s finest examples of both historic and contemporary Native pottery at this gallery a couple of blocks east of the Plaza. It is especially renowned for its collection of pieces from San Ildefonso Pueblo legend Maria Martinez and her illustrious family. 100 W. San Francisco St., The Plaza 505/986–1234 www.andreafisherpottery.com.
Keshi: The Zuni Connection
CRAFTS | Since the early ‘80s, this gallery specializing in beautiful animal fetishes carved out of turquoise, marble, onyx, and countless other materials has served as a co-op art gallery for western New Mexico’s Zuni Pueblo. You’ll find fetishes representing an astounding variety of animals, from eagles to mountain lions to turtles, plus fine jewelry and pottery. 227 Don Gaspar Ave., The Plaza 505/989–8728 www.keshi.com.
The Rainbow Man
CRAFTS | Established in 1945, this colorful, if a bit touristy, shop does business in an old, rambling adobe complex, part of which dates from before the 1680 Pueblo Revolt and also served as offices for the Manhattan Project. The shop carries early Navajo, Mexican, and Chimayó textiles, along with photographs by Edward S. Curtis, a breathtaking collection of vintage pawn and Mexican jewelry, Day of the Dead figures, Oaxacan folk animals, New Mexican folk art, kachinas, and contemporary jewelry from local artists. The friendly staff possesses an encyclopedic knowledge of the art here. 107 E. Palace Ave., The Plaza 505/982–8706 www.rainbowman.com.
ANTIQUES/COLLECTIBLES | This rustic and light-filled space showcases a beautifully curated collection of Navajo rugs and blankets, contemporary and vintage Native jewelry, pottery, sculpture, folk art, fine art and more. The vision of fifth-generation art dealer Jed Foutz, who was raised in a family of Indian art traders on the Navajo Nation, the gallery is notable for its dedication to showcasing exquisite vintage pieces alongside vanguard contemporary works. 53 Old Santa Fe Trail, 2nd fl., The Plaza 505/982–8478 www.shiprocksantafe.com.
Sights
Barrio de Analco
HISTORIC SITE | Along the south bank of the Santa Fe River, the barrio—its name means “District on the Other Side of the Water”—is one of America’s oldest neighborhoods, settled in the early 1600s by the Tlaxcalan Indians (who were forbidden to live with the Spanish near the Plaza) and in the 1690s by soldiers who had helped recapture New Mexico after the Pueblo Revolt. The historic district was named a National Historic Landmark in 1968 and is a great place to experience Santa Fe’s unique history of Native American, Spanish, Mexican, and American cultural influence. Plaques on houses on East De Vargas Street will help you locate some of the important structures. Check the performance schedule at the Santa Fe Playhouse on De Vargas Street, founded by writer Mary Austin and other Santa Feans in 1922. Old Santa Fe Trail at E. De Vargas St., Old Santa Fe Trail and South Capitol.
GOVERNMENT BUILDING | FAMILY | The symbol of the Zía Pueblo, which represents the Circle of Life, was the inspiration for the state’s capitol building, also known as the Roundhouse. Doorways at opposing sides of the 1966 structure symbolize the four times of day, the four directions, the four stages of life, and the four seasons. Throughout the building are artworks from the outstanding 600-work collection of the Capitol Art Foundation, historical and cultural displays, and handcrafted furniture—it’s a superb and somewhat overlooked array of fine art. The Governor’s Gallery hosts temporary exhibits. Six acres of imaginatively landscaped gardens shelter outstanding sculptures. 490 Old Santa Fe Trail, Old Santa Fe Trail and South Capitol 505/986–4589 www.nmlegis.gov/visitors Free Closed Sun. year-round and Sat. Sept.–late May.
The Oldest House
BUILDING | FAMILY | This house is said to be the oldest in the United States—a sign on the exterior puts the date at 1646. Some say it’s much older, but historians currently can verify only that it dates back to the mid-1700s. Inside, a small gift shop and museum features Harvey House jewelry, kachinas, paintings, pottery, and more. 215 E. De Vargas St., Old Santa Fe Trail and South Capitol 505/988–2488 www.oldesthousesantafe.com.
Peyton Wright
MUSEUM | Tucked inside the National Register-listed Spiegelberg house, this gallery represents some of the most talented emerging and established contemporary artists in the country Historic notables featured here include Dorothy Brett, Robert Motherwell, Joseph Stella, and Taro Yamamoto as well as antique, and even ancient, New Mexican, Russian, and Latin works. 237 E. Palace Ave., The Plaza 505/989–9888 www.peytonwright.com Closed Sun.
San Miguel Mission
RELIGIOUS SITE | FAMILY | Believed to be the oldest church still in use in the United States, this simple earth-hewn adobe structure was built around 1610 by the Tlaxcalan Indians of Mexico, who came to New Mexico as servants of the Spanish. Badly damaged in the 1680 Pueblo Revolt, the structure was restored and enlarged in 1710. On display in the chapel are priceless statues and paintings and the San José Bell, weighing nearly 800 pounds, which is believed to have been cast in Spain in 1356. In winter the church sometimes closes before its official closing hour. Latin mass is held daily at 2 pm, and new mass is on Sunday at 5 pm. 401 Old Santa Fe Trail, Old Santa Fe Trail and South Capitol 505/983–3974 www.sanmiguelchapel.org.
Santa Fe School of Cooking
LOCAL INTEREST | If you’d like to bring the flavors of the Southwest to your own kitchen, consider taking one of the wildly popular and fun cooking classes at the Santa Fe School of Cooking. Regular classes are taught during the day, with some evening classes available. More elaborate courses include the three-day Southwest Culinary Boot Camp and five-day New Mexico Culture & Cuisine tour, where participants travel around the state meeting farmers, winemakers, chefs, and more. There are also the ever-popular walking tours of Santa Fe’s most notable restaurants, which usually include special visits with the chefs. Reservations are advised. The school also operates an online market where you can purchase all sorts of New Mexico culinary goods and gifts, and virtual classes are also available. 125 N. Guadalupe St., West of the Plaza 505/983–4511, 800/982–4688 www.santafeschoolofcooking.com.
Restaurants
$$$ | FRENCH | Talented chef-owner Charles Dale (who previously cooked at Rancho Encantado’s Terra, Daniel Boulud’s Le Cirque, and at his own James Beard–lauded Renaissance restaurant in Aspen) operates this lively, modern take on a traditional French neighborhood bistro. Choose a cozy table by the fireplace and try the consistently stellar renditions of classic escargots, sautéed sweetbreads with local mushrooms, and pomme frites—prices are more than fair compared with similarly upscale eateries around town. Known for: fresh oysters and seafood; charming outdoor patio; tiramisu for dessert. Average main: $30 451 W. Alameda St., West of the Plaza 505/982–6297 www.bouchebistro.com Closed Sun. and Mon. No lunch.
Bumble Bee’s Baja Grill
$ | MEXICAN | FAMILY | A bright, vibrantly colored restaurant with closely spaced tables, piñatas, and ceiling fans whirling overhead, Bumble Bee’s (the nickname of the ebullient owner, Bob) delights locals with its superfresh Cal Mex–style food. If you like fish tacos, the mahimahi ones with creamy, nondairy slaw are outstanding; try them with a side of salad instead of beans and rice. Known for: Baja-style mahimahi tacos; lots of vegan and vegetarian options; Mexican chocolate brownie. Average main: $10 301 Jefferson St., West of the Plaza 505/820–2862 www.bumblebeesbajagrill.com.
$ | CAFÉ | Slovakian transplant Annamaria O’Brien’s bustling bakery and brunch spot is as bright and crisp as her food. The menu borrows a bit from the chef’s Eastern European roots with favorites such as paprikash, langos, and goulash, but also features regional American dishes like cornmeal waffles with buttermilk fried chicken and a surprising bone broth “morning soup”. Known for: Eastern European pastries; eclectic and hearty breakfast-brunch fare; farm-fresh local ingredients. Average main: $12 402 N. Guadalupe St., West of the Plaza 505/982–9394 www.dolinasantafe.com No dinner.
$ | ECLECTIC | Tucked inside a cozy house on busy Guadalupe Street, Fire & Hops turns out some of the most flavorful, local, seasonal, and affordable gastropub-style food in Santa Fe while also offering a stellar list of craft beers from regional breweries such as Bosque, Bow & Arrow, Le Cumbre, Marble, and Ex Novo. Fire & Hops also features an extensive wine and cider list, and reserves a tap for hard kombucha crafted by celebrated local producer HoneyMoon Brewery. Known for: upscale pub food with an Asian flair; small plates like crispy fried Brussels sprouts; house-made ice cream in unusual flavors. Average main: $14 222 N. Guadalupe St., West of the Plaza 505/954–1635 www.fireandhopsgastropub.com No lunch.
$$$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | Having cooked at some of the best restaurants in town (Geronimo, the Old House, Anasazi), acclaimed James Beard–nominated chef Martin Rios now flexes his culinary muscles in his own place, a simple, elegant restaurant with a gorgeous patio. Rios prepares progressive American cuisine, which is heavily influenced by his French culinary training. Known for: daily-changing vegetarian tasting plate; lovely Sunday brunch; attractively landscaped patio. Average main: $32 526 Galisteo St., Old Santa Fe Trail and South Capitol 505/820–0919 www.restaurantmartin.com Closed Mon. year-round and Tues. Jan.–May.
$ | PERUVIAN | FAMILY | Among the more unlikely locales for a exceptionally good Peruvian lunch or early dinner, this lively eatery decorated with colorful Andes textiles, paintings, and crafts occupies a windowless (but well-lighted) space inside humdrum DeVargas shopping center. The authentic food here relies heavily on organic ingredients, and many vegetarian and vegan options are offered, including avocados stuffed with olives, peppers, cherry tomatoes, and other vegetables. Known for: excellent causa rellena limena (a layered dish of potatoes, lime, yellow chiles, chicken, and avocado); on-site boutique selling Peruvian arts and crafts; early closing at 5 pm. Average main: $12 DeVargas Center, 163 Paseo de Peralta, West of the Plaza 505/358–3829 www.saborperuanosf.com Closed Sun.
$$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | Owner Quinn Stephenson (who also owns fine dining institution Coyote Cafe) recently reopened this long-acclaimed member of Santa Fe’s culinary vanguard with a lighter menu focused on fresh, fusion cuisine, and it remains one of Santa Fe’s must-eat destinations. The minimalist, elegant restaurant is located two blocks north of the Plaza in the historic Padre Gallegos House and offers inventive dishes such as Maine lobster rolls with tarragon butter, spring pea and mint soup, and pan-seared salmon with roasted orange and fennel. Known for: one of the city’s old-world dining institutions; fantastic patio popular with locals and visitors alike; fun happy hour. Average main: $28 231 Washington Ave., The Plaza 505/984–1788 www.santacafe.com No lunch Sun.
$ | MEXICAN | FAMILY | Tasty and affordable regional Mexican-style tacos, with soft corn tortillas, are the name of the game at this hip fast-food joint where you order at the counter and enjoy your meal in the tiny no-frills dining area or outside at a wooden picnic table or covered bench (or, as many locals do, in your car). You’ll find nearly 20 taco fillings—fried squash blossom, goat, bison, al pastor (roasted marinated pork with pineapple), and shrimp are among the best—plus rice bowls, burritos, and sides of guacamole and pinto beans. Known for: huge variety of taco fillings; Mexican soft-serve ice cream; no alcohol and early 7 pm closing (5 pm on Sunday). Average main: $9 235 N. Guadalupe St., West of the Plaza 505/982–8286 www.facebook.com/tacofundacionsf.
$$ | WINE BAR | This reasonably priced, warmly decorated bistro and wine bar occupies a cozy late-19th-century Territorial-style house near the O’Keeffe Museum. The menu favors snacking and sharing—salmon salad with pomegranate vinaigrette, bruschetta with Brie and fig-port jam, flatbread pizzas, panini, grilled flank steak. Known for: bruschetta with a variety of toppings; panini sandwiches; terrific wine list. Average main: $21 304 Johnson St., The Plaza 505/989–1166 www.terracottawinebistro.com No lunch Sun.
Hotels
$$$ | B&B/INN | Known as the “Gourmet Inn,” this is one of the city’s most charming little finds, an exquisitely landscaped and attractively decorated compound on a pretty residential street a half-mile south of the Plaza. Pros: some units have fully equipped kitchens; the owners offer superb breakfasts and cooking classes; lush gardens. Cons: occasional noise from nearby elementary school; about a 10-minute walk from Downtown; not too much to do in the immediate vicinity. Rooms from: $217 617 Don Gaspar Ave., Old Santa Fe Trail and South Capitol 505/986–8664, 888/986–8664 www.ccsantafe.com 12 rooms Free Breakfast.
$$$ | RENTAL | FAMILY | This luxurious, secluded, yet centrally located tract of about 15 spacious one- and-two-bedroom vacation rentals is located on a hill just north of Downtown. Pros: perfect for extended stays; beautiful furnishings and high-end appliances; close to Plaza but still very private. Cons: the walk from Plaza is uphill; there’s a two-night minimum stay; can book up well in advance in summer. Rooms from: $250 334 Otero St., North Side 505/988–7585 www.campanillacompound.com 15 units No meals.
$$$ | HOTEL | FAMILY | One of Downtown Santa Fe’s largest and most impressive hotels, this LEED-certified upscale property with a expansive rooftop bar and pool is located next to St. Francis Cathedral inside the masterfully transformed Territorial Revival–style former St. Vincent’s Hospital. Pros: beautiful, light-filled public spaces; steps from Canyon Road and the Plaza; spacious rooms. Cons: parking is valet only and costs $16; some room amenities are a bit ordinary for an upscale hotel; large events can make things a bit busy. Rooms from: $259 828 Paseo de Peralta, The Plaza 505/424–2175 www.druryhotels.com 182 rooms Free Breakfast.
$$ | B&B/INN | All the beautiful Southwestern and Mexican furniture in this small, upscale compound is custom-made, and all the art and photography is original. Pros: excellent breakfast; half of the casitas have private patios, and half have shared patio areas; ample free off-street parking. Cons: no on-site pool or hot tub; about a 10-minute walk to the Plaza; a bit of neighborhood noise. Rooms from: $195 514 Galisteo St., Old Santa Fe Trail and South Capitol 505/988–1631, 888/634–8782 www.farolito.com 8 rooms Free Breakfast.
$$ | RENTAL | FAMILY | On a bluff just a 10-minute walk northeast of the Plaza with great views, this large, older compound comprises individually furnished units that accommodate two to six guests and come with full kitchens and wood fireplaces. Pros: nice views of the Sangre de Cristo range; handy amenities for extended stays; good value. Cons: not especially fancy; some decor is a bit dated; uphill walk from the Plaza. Rooms from: $135 321 Kearney Ave., North Side 505/988–2800 www.allseasonsresortlodging.com 100 units No meals.
$$ | B&B/INN | The large rooms in this handsome adobe compound 2½ blocks from the Plaza are decorated with reed shutters, antique pine beds, viga-beam ceilings, hand-stenciled artwork, wood or brick floors, and a blend of cowboy, Hispanic, and Native American art and artifacts. Pros: elegant decor; free parking; popular restaurant and live-music venue next door. Cons: overlooks a parking lot; pet-friendly rooms are suites only; comes with resort fee. Rooms from: $140 427 W. Water St., West of the Plaza 505/984–1193 www.vanessiesantafe.com 21 rooms Free Breakfast.
$$$$ | B&B/INN | There isn’t another property in Santa Fe to compare to this sumptuous yet relaxed inn with an unmistakable East-meets-West feel. Pros: tucked into a quiet, ancient neighborhood; loads of cushy perks and in-room amenities; fantastic staff—attentive but not overbearing. Cons: very steep rates; a short walk to downtown; can hear faint city noise from certain rooms. Rooms from: $675 150 E. DeVargas St., Old Santa Fe Trail and South Capitol 505/992–0957, 866/992–0957 www.fivegraces.com 26 rooms Free Breakfast.
$$$ | B&B/INN | In the 1920s, poet Witter Bynner played host to an eccentric circle of artists and intellectuals, as well as some wild parties in his mid-19th-century Spanish–Pueblo Revival home, which is now a superb bed-and-breakfast with a great location a few blocks from the capitol; in sum, it’s the quintessential Santa Fe inn. Pros: gorgeous grounds and a house steeped in local history; gracious, knowledgeable staff; generous gourmet breakfasts. Cons: no pool or hot tub on-site; quirky layout of some rooms isn’t for everyone; about a 15-minute walk to the Plaza. Rooms from: $220 342 E. Buena Vista, Old Santa Fe Trail and South Capitol 505/983–0798, 800/396–4104 www.turquoisebear.com 9 rooms Free Breakfast.
$$ | B&B/INN | This handily situated inn has fairly simple, if in some cases compact, rooms, but they’re clean and light, some have hardwood floors, and all have pleasing Southwestern furnishings and color schemes—the best units even have fireplaces and private patios. Pros: just a few blocks from the Plaza; friendly, helpful staff; old buildings have unique Southwest character. Cons: some rooms facing the road; can have some traffic noise; certain rooms can be small. Rooms from: $155 630 Paseo de Peralta, The Plaza 505/984–8200 https://www.innonthepaseo.com 18 rooms Free Breakfast.
$$$ | B&B/INN | It’s a pleasant 10-minute walk west of the Plaza to reach this group of properties consisting of a few historic, luxurious compounds, one of them Spanish Pueblo–style adobe, another done in the Territorial style, and others ranging from rooms in renovated Victorian houses to contemporary condos with up to three bedrooms. Pros: kid-friendly, with swings and a play yard; free Downtown shuttle service; most units feel very private and self-contained. Cons: big variations among the accommodations; no hot tub or pool on-site (guests may use pool at the Hotel Santa Fe); location requires transport to most local sights. Rooms from: $250 460 W. San Francisco St., West of the Plaza 505/982–5560, 855/982–5560 www.laspalomas.com 50 casitas Free Breakfast.
$$ | B&B/INN | Rooms in this reasonably priced 1873 adobe compound have handmade and hand-painted furnishings, Navajo weavings, brick and hardwood floors, sand paintings and pottery, locally carved santos (Catholic saints), and Western art. Pros: intimate, cozy inn on peaceful grounds; excellent value; hearty breakfasts. Cons: bathrooms tend to be small; on a slightly noisy street; short walk to major sights. Rooms from: $150 138 W. Manhattan Ave., Old Santa Fe Trail and South Capitol 505/984–8001, 800/461–4599 www.pueblobonitoinn.com 19 rooms Breakfast.
Center for Contemporary Arts (CCA)
ART GALLERIES—ARTS | The city’s most interesting multiuse arts venue, the Center for Contemporary Arts (CCA) presents indie and foreign films, art exhibitions, provocative theater, and countless workshops and lectures. 1050 Old Pecos Trail, Old Santa Fe Trail and South Capitol 505/982–1338 www.ccasantafe.org.
Santa Fe Playhouse
THEATER | The oldest extant theater company west of the Mississippi, the Santa Fe Playhouse occupies a converted 19th-century adobe stable and has been presenting an adventurous mix of avant-garde pieces, classical drama, and musical comedy since 1922—the season runs year-round. The Fiesta Melodrama—a spoof of the Santa Fe scene—pokes sly fun from late August to mid-September. 142 E. De Vargas St., Old Santa Fe Trail and South Capitol 505/988–4262 www.santafeplayhouse.org.