Fodor’s InFocus Santa Fe

TOP EXPERIENCES

dingbat Search for vintage items: One-of-a-kind treasures are waiting to be discovered at the many well-curated secondhand shops along Guadalupe Street.

dingbat Shop like a local: Around the Railyard you’ll find dozens of specialty boutiques selling everything from colorful cowboy boots to local art.

dingbat Plan your next meal: Try whatever is fresh, local, and delicious at the famous Santa Fe Farmers’ Market.

Enjoy the city’s nightlife: Dance the night away to live music at local watering holes or the Railyard’s free summer concert series.

Appreciate art: Art abounds in the Railyard District, whether it’s within a big gallery, a local artist’s studio, or the excellent SITE Santa Fe.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

The Railyard District is easily accessible by car and within walking distance of Downtown. While most parking is metered street parking, there is a large parking garage, as well as a few small lots, at the Railyard itself. Walk the winding streets around the area to see some of the historic homes and buildings. The free “Santa Fe Pick-Up” shuttle also offers a historic district loop that runs around Downtown and to the Railyard, with pick-ups/drop-offs approximately every 15 minutes.

QUICK BITES

El Chile Toreado. Considered one of Santa Fe’s best food trucks, El Chile Toreado offers hearty, delicious, and affordable New Mexican breakfast and lunch. E807 Early St. welchiletoreado.com

dingbat Revolution Bakery. This gluten-free bakery serves baked goods, soups, sandwiches, and other goodies (with lots of vegan options) that are so delicious you won’t miss the gluten. EThe Design Center, 418 Cerrillos Rd. wwww.revolutionbakery.com

dingbat Whoo’s Donuts. Whoo’s has developed a near-fanatical following for its traditional and creative doughnuts (think blue corn blueberry lavender and green chile apple fritter). E851 Cerrillos Rd. wwww.whoosdonuts.com

The most significant development in Santa Fe in recent years has taken place in the Railyard District, a neighborhood just south of the Plaza that was for years called the Guadalupe District (and is occasionally still known by that name).

Comprising a few easily walked blocks along Guadalupe Street between Agua Fria and Paseo de Peralta, the district has been revitalized with a snazzy park and outdoor performance space, a permanent indoor–outdoor home for the farmers’ market, and quite a few notable restaurants, shops, and galleries.

This historic warehouse and rail district endured several decades of neglect after the demise of the train route through town. But rather than tearing the buildings down (this is a city where 200-year-old mud-brick buildings sell at a premium, after all), the city, with extensive input from residents, worked with developers to gradually convert the low-lying warehouses into artists’ studios, antiques shops, bookstores, indie shops, and restaurants. The Rail Runner commuter train to Albuquerque has put the rail tracks as well as the vintage mission-style depot back into use.

A central feature of the district’s redevelopment is Railyard Park, at the corner of Cerrillos Road and Guadalupe Street, which was designed to highlight native plants and provide citizens with a lush, urban space. The buildings just north, in the direction of the Plaza, contain the vibrant Santa Fe Farmers’ Market, the stunning SITE Santa Fe museum, art galleries, shops, restaurants, and live-work spaces for artists. This dramatic development reveals the fascinating way Santa Feans have worked to meet the needs of an expanding city while paying strict attention to the city’s historic relevance.

On weekends, the Railyard District is a lively spot thanks to the ever-popular Santa Fe Farmers’ Market and the Sunday Artisan Market. One could easily spend an entire day perusing the many contemporary galleries, vintage shops, and quirky boutiques that surround the Railyard. In the evenings, you can often dance the night away at free community concerts or to a live band at local nightlife staple, the Cowgirl BBQ.

ARTS VENUE | This Railyard District notable focuses primarily on monochromatic “radical” painting and sculpture and is set in a fantastic, open space in a renovated warehouse. Many of the pieces here are large-scale, with “drama” the guiding force. Joe Barnes, William Metcalf, Constance DeJong, and Winston Roeth are among the artists producing minimalist works dealing with light and space. E554 S. Guadalupe St., Railyard District P505/989–8688 wwww.charlottejackson.com CClosed Sun. and Mon.

ARTS VENUE | In a striking, high-ceilinged space in the Railyard District, EVOKE ranks among the more diverse contemporary galleries in town, with works by renowned landscape painters such as Lynn Boggess and the late Louisa McElwain, outsider folk art by Nicholas Herrera, surrealist portraits by self-taught painter Jorge Santos, colorful contemporary works by “street to studio” artist Thomas Vigial, and intricate sgraffito by Alice Leora Briggs. E550 S. Guadalupe St., Railyard District P505/995–9902 wwww.evokecontemporary.com.

MUSEUM | Set in a dramatic 14,000-square-foot neo-industrial building beside the farmers’ market in the Railyard District, this leader in both contemporary and modern art carries works by such icons as Alexander Calder, Claes Oldenburg, and Pablo Picasso. You’ll also find a dazzling collection of abstract sculpture, photography, and paintings by up-and-coming regional and international talents. E1613 Paseo de Peralta, Railyard District P505/988–3250 wwww.lewallengalleries.com CClosed Sun.

RELIGIOUS SITE | A massive-walled adobe structure built by Franciscan missionaries between 1776 and 1795, this is the oldest shrine in the United States to Our Lady of Guadalupe, Mexico’s patron saint. The church’s adobe walls are nearly 3 feet thick, and among the sanctuary’s religious art and artifacts is a beloved image of Nuestra Virgen de Guadalupe, painted by Mexican master Jose de Alzibar in 1783. Highlights are the traditional New Mexican carved and painted altar screen called a reredos, an authentic 19th-century sacristy, a pictorial-history archive, a library devoted to Archbishop Jean Baptiste Lamy that is furnished with many of his belongings, and a garden with plants from the Holy Land. E100 Guadalupe St., Railyard District P505/988–2027 ADonations accepted CClosed Sun. year-round and Sat. Nov.–Apr.

ARTS CENTERS | The events at this 18,000 square foot nexus of international contemporary art include lectures, concerts, author readings, films, performance art, and gallery shows. The facility also hosts a biennial exhibition, SITElines, staged every even-numbered year. Exhibitions are often provocative, and the immense, open space provides an ideal setting for the many larger-than-life installations. The on-site museum store, Curated, offers a tasteful selection of unique, artist-made items. E1606 Paseo de Peralta, Railyard District P505/989–1199 wsitesantafe.org A$10, free on Fri.

MUSEUM | The sleek design of this airy, two-story gallery with a skylighted atrium is a fitting venue for the cutting-edge photography, paintings, sculptures, and mixed-media works within. Zane Bennett has carried works by icons (think Helen Frankenthaler, Sol LeWitt, and Richard Serra) but also presents rotating shows, including Native artist Jaune Quick-to-See Smith, the iconic feminist works of Judy Chicago, and pieces by noted American pop artist Jim Dine. E435 S. Guadalupe St., Railyard District P505/982–8111 wwww.zanebennettgallery.com CClosed Sun. and Mon.

$ | SOUTHWESTERN | This cozy locals’ favorite has colorful walls and wood details, booths, a few tables, and a community table. The shaded patio out front is a great summertime spot to enjoy the toothsome Southwest-inspired cooking, from breakfast through dinner. Known for: breakfast rellenos; vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free options; homemade cakes and pies. DAverage main: $11 E1115 Hickox St., West of the Plaza P505/983–7060 wwww.tuneupsantafe.com.

BREWPUBS/BEER GARDENS | One of the state’s most celebrated craft brewing companies, Bosque Brewing Co.’s Santa Fe taproom offers rotating taps including favorites such as the Jetty Jack Amber and Elephants on Parade wheat ale. The kitchen serves up beer-friendly foods ranging from nachos and deep-fried cheese curds to street tacos, burgers, and fish-and-chips. It’s a great spot to relax and people watch. E500 Market St., Railyard District P505/433–3889 wwww.bosquebrewing.com.

BARS/PUBS | FAMILY | This rollicking barbecue, burger, and Southwestern soul food joint is one of the most popular places in town for live blues, country, rock, folk, and even karaoke. The bar is friendly and the cheap happy hour margaritas provide a lot of bang for your buck. The fun pool hall and central outdoor patio can get wild as the night gets late. E319 S. Guadalupe St., Railyard District P505/982–2565 wwww.cowgirlsantafe.com.

BARS/PUBS | One of the Southwest’s most acclaimed microdistilleries, Santa Fe Spirits operates a convivial tasting room from a small adobe home. Known for its award-winning Colkegan Single Malt Whiskey, Wheeler’s Gin, and Apple Brandy, among several other robust elixirs, it’s a great place to sip drinks on the lovely patio on warm evenings. Distillery tours, by reservation, are available at the main production facility out near the airport. E308 Read St., Railyard District P505/780–5906 wwww.santafespirits.com.

BARS/PUBS | This long-popular brewpub has three locations in town, with the Railyard location being especially popular thanks to the easy walking distance from Downtown hotels. There’s great live music (usually rock or folk) or DJs most nights along with a rotating selection of terrific beers. A substantial food menu includes good burgers and pub favorites. E1607 Paseo de Peralta, Suite 10, Railyard District P505/989–3278 wwww.secondstreetbrewery.com.

FILM | FAMILY | This state-of-the-art multiscreen cinema shows everything from blockbusters to indie and vintage movies and offers a restaurant and bar featuring craft brews and ciders, fine wine, and sophisticated food options, which you can eat in the theaters. The food and drink selection is actually so good that many people choose the Violet Crown simply to hang out—you’ll frequently see locals meeting in the bar for a weekly game of cards. Reserved seating means never having to settle for a bad row and each screening room has air-conditioning, making it a great hot weather escape. E1606 Alcaldesa St., Railyard District P505/216–5678 wsantafe.violetcrown.com.

BOOKS/STATIONERY | Famed Santa Fe resident George R. R. Martin owns both this fantasy-and-science-fiction-focused bookstore as well as Jean Cocteau Cinema next-door. Named after Cocteau’s 1946 classic Beauty and the Beast (which was also a television show the Game of Thronesauthor worked on in the 1980s), the shop features books of all genres, each signed by its writer. This of course includes Martin’s many offerings, but also books by Diana Gabaldon, Leonard Maltin, Erica Jong, and Walter Jon Williams. E418 Montezuma Ave., Railyard District P505/395–2628 wwww.jeancocteaucinema.com/beastlybooks.

CLOTHING | This rambling 25,000-square-foot shop ranks among the best consignment stores in the West, carrying elaborately embroidered vintage cowboy shirts, hundreds of pairs of boots, funky old prints, antique Southwestern-style furniture, and amazing vintage Indian pawn and Mexican jewelry. The store comprises several sections that also include contemporary clothing and accessories for men and women and a pottery showroom. E320 Aztec St., Railyard District P505/989–8886 wwww.santafedoubletake.com.

FOOD/CANDY | With a clean, orderly aesthetic that seems right out of the pages of Kinfolk, this updated, upscale take on a general store carries gorgeous kitchenware and table linens, from salvaged-olive-wood cutting boards to handwoven dish towels. Fine hardware, garden tools, and books related to kitchen and home are also on offer. It’s adjacent to and run by the team at Vinaigrette restaurant, and you can dine here, too—there’s a juice bar and a small café proffering delicious breakfast fare, sandwiches, pies, and more. Owner Erin Wade is well-known in the restaurant community for her creative sustainability solutions, such as reusable take-out containers, to-go cups, and composting initiatives. E637 Cerrillos Rd., Railyard District P505/930–5462 wwww.moderngeneralfeedandseed.com.

GIFTS/SOUVENIRS | In this cozy Railyard District shop you’ll find a well-curated selection of home goods—tableware, candles and folk art from Mexico, tote bags, toys, and even a few antiques. Note the very nice selection of lotions and body-care products made in New Mexico. E322 S. Guadalupe St., Railyard District P505/699–2760.

ANTIQUES/COLLECTIBLES | A spacious shop that sells functional and decorative art from around the world, Casa Nova deftly mixes colors, textures, and cultural icons—old and new—from stylish pewter tableware from South Africa to vintage hand-carved ex-votos (votive offerings) from Brazil. There is a major emphasis here on goods produced by artists and cooperatives focused on sustainable economic development. E530 S. Guadalupe St., Railyard District P505/983–8558 wwww.casanovagallery.com.

JEWELRY/ACCESSORIES | Check out “concept-led” minimalist contemporary jewelry from European designers and Deborah Alexander and Gordon Lawrie, who own the store. It’s a lovely, contemporary space with a fascinating array of materials, good range of prices, and helpful staff. E508A Camino de la Familia, Railyard District P505/992–0020 wwww.eidosjewelry.com.

NEIGHBORHOOD SNAPSHOT

The most significant development in Santa Fe in recent years has taken place in the Railyard District, a neighborhood just south of the Plaza that was for years called the Guadalupe District (and is occasionally still known by that name).