TOP EXPERIENCES
Take a ski and spa day: Work up a sweat on the slopes of Ski Santa Fe then head down the mountain to soak it out at one of the area’s many luxury spas, like Ten Thousand Waves.
Embrace the mystery and magic of Meow Wolf: As Santa Fe’s top tourist attraction of late, Meow Wolf’s mind-bending House of Eternal Return puts your mind to work solving an expansive mystery while allowing your inner child to run free.
Experience open-air opera: The famous Santa Fe opera performs regularly in a gorgeous indoor–outdoor amphitheater carved into a hillside.
Dine with the locals: The popular eateries along busy Cerillos Road (also part of historic Route 66) are always filled to the brim with locals and tourists alike.
GETTING HERE AND AROUND
The north, west, and south sides of Santa Fe are easily reachable by car. Areas in the north are more rural so parking is rarely an issue. The same goes for the south side as it is highly developed, therefore parking lots abound. The area to the west of town, save for DeVargas Center, can pose a bit more of a parking problem as the historic streets are narrow and most parking is reserved for residents. Your best bet is to park in one of the nearby city parking garages and walk while exploring the area.
QUICK BITES
Blake’s Lotaburger. This old-school, regional fast-food chain serves tasty breakfast burritos and juicy burgers. 404 N. Guadalupe St., West Side www.lotaburger.com
Jambo Hapa. The Hapa is the food truck of this popular East African-Caribbean fusion eatery, a local favorite known for its jerk chicken sandwiches and creative curries. 2010 Cerillos Rd., Southside www.jambocafe.net
Posa’s El Merendero Tamale Factory & Restaurant. Famous for its tamales, this is also a great spot for a quick sit-down or grab-and-go traditional New Mexico meal. 1514 Rodeo Rd., Southside www.santafetamales.com
The north claims some of the area’s most stunning scenery including the winding drive along Bishop’s Lodge Road to the village of Tesuque. Among the area’s rolling hills and sagebrush-dotted mesas sits the famed Santa Fe Opera, the Tesuque Casino, and the distinctive Four Seasons Rancho Encantado. A trip northeast through the verdant foothills of the Sangre de Christos is the way to go if you’re looking for day hikes, beautiful vistas, enchanting spa experiences, or an adrenaline rush down the slopes of Ski Santa Fe.
West of Downtown, the area along Guadalupe Street between Alameda Street and Paseo de Peralta (and the historic blocks just west) nurtures many independent businesses, from hip record stores and cozy inns to breweries and gastropubs. At the intersection of Paseo de Peralta and Guadalupe, you’ll find the expansive DeVargas Center shopping mall, which has a few notable shops and eateries, a bustling bowling alley/family activity center/lounge, and some larger grocery and big-box stores that can come in handy if you just need basic supplies (and are still within walking distance of the Plaza).
The majority of Santa Feans live on the Southside, which encompasses a vast stretch of relatively level mesa land. What this somewhat sprawly part of town lacks in scenic beauty—especially along traffic-choked and strip-mall-lined Cerrillos Road (a stretch of the original Route 66)—it makes up for in convenient services, good food, and creative experiences. This is where you’re going to find most of the area’s midrange and budget chain accommodations and fast-food restaurants, along with an increasing number of genuinely notable eateries, from down-home neighborhood favorites like Horseman’s Haven and El Parasol to inspired contemporary spots like Rowley’s Farmhouse Ales and Dr. Field Goods Kitchen. One burgeoning sub-neighborhood on the Southside, the Midtown Innovation District, has sprung up along Siler Road—just off Cerrillos Road—and is anchored by experiential art collective Meow Wolf as well as a growing number of hip breweries, eateries, galleries, and art studios.
If you’ve got a car, exploring Santa Fe’s surrounding neighborhoods is worth a day on your itinerary. Head down south of town to stock up supplies at one of the many grocery stores, delis, or eateries specializing in New Mexican cuisine, then cruise the winding roads for a picnic and hike near Ski Santa Fe. On the way back, stop for a soak or book a treatment at the zen-inspiring spa at Ten Thousand Waves. Or, head north to Tesuque and explore the sculpture garden at Shidoni and the vistas of the famous Santa Fe Opera before winding down at a popular eatery like El Nido. If you time it right, the hills surrounding Santa Fe are prime spots to enjoy one of Santa Fe’s spectacular sunsets.
Sights
El Rancho de las Golondrinas
MUSEUM VILLAGE | Sometimes dubbed the “Colonial Williamsburg of the Southwest,” El Rancho de las Golondrinas (“Ranch of the Swallows”) is a reconstruction of a small agricultural village with buildings from the 17th to 19th centuries. Travelers on El Camino Real would stop at the ranch before making the final leg of the journey north, a half-day ride from Santa Fe in horse-and-wagon time. By car, the ranch is only a 25-minute drive from the Plaza. It’s also a 10-minute drive from where the Turquoise Trail (NM 14) intersects with Interstate 25, making it a fun stop—especially for kids—on your way to or from Albuquerque. Self-guided tours interpret the lives of locals in those bygone eras while farm animals roam through the barnyards on the 200-acre complex. During the ranch’s many festivals—Spring & Fiber Fest, the Herb & Lavender Festival, Viva México, La Panza Llena New Mexico Food Fest, Santa Fe Wine Festival, and others—music, dance, food, and crafts are offered. In April, May, and October, the museum is open weekdays, by advance reservation only. 334 Los Pinos Rd., South Side 505/471–2261 www.golondrinas.org $6 Closed weekends Nov.–Mar. and Mon. and Tues. June–Sept.
ARTS VENUE | FAMILY | Both the name of an ambitious visual and musical arts collective and of the dazzling multimillion-dollar arts complex the group created out of a former bowling alley (with much of the funding coming from Santa Fe–based Game of Thrones author George R. R. Martin), visitors now flock to the arts complex’s first permanent exhibition, the self-billed “immersive art installation” House of Eternal Return, which has become one of the city’s leading attractions. Give yourself at least a couple of hours to tour this sci-fi-inspired, 20,000-square-foot interactive exhibit in which you’ll encounter hidden doorways, mysterious corridors, ambient music, and clever, surrealistic, and often slyly humorous artistic renderings. It’s a strange, almost impossible to describe, experience, but it is absolutely family-friendly, and although wildly imaginative and occasionally eerie, the subject matter isn’t at all frightening. Tickets are good throughout the day—you can leave and reenter the installation, and perhaps break up the experience by enjoying a light bite and craft beer at the lobby bar/café. Be aware that the experience is highly sensory and can be a little overstimulating for those who are sensitive to noise, changing lighting, and crowds. Meow Wolf is open until 8 most evenings and 10 on Friday and Saturday. The collective also presents concerts and other events both at the Meow Wolf arts complex and at other venues around the city. 1352 Rufina Cir., South Side 505/395–6369 www.meowwolf.com $35 Closed Tues.
MUSIC | To watch opera in this strikingly modern structure—a 2,128-seat, indoor–outdoor amphitheater with excellent acoustics and sight lines—is a memorable visual and auditory experience. Carved into the natural curves of a hillside 7 miles north of the Plaza, the opera overlooks mountains, mesas, and sky. Add some of the most acclaimed operatic talents from Europe and the United States, and you begin to understand the excitement that builds every June. This world-renowned company presents five works in repertory each summer—a blend of seasoned classics, neglected masterpieces, and world premieres. Many evenings sell out far in advance, but less expensive standing-room tickets are often available on the day of the performance. A favorite pre-opera pastime is tailgating in the parking lot before the evening performance—many guests set up elaborate picnics of their own, but you can also preorder picnic meals at the opera website by calling 24 hours in advance or ordering a take-out meal from one of the many local restaurants that offer opera meals. In the off-season, the opera house hosts shows by contemporary artists such as Bonnie Raitt, St. Vincent, The Shins, and The National. 301 Opera Dr., North Side 505/986–5900, 800/280–4654 www.santafeopera.org.
Shidoni Gallery and Sculpture Garden
ART GALLERIES | FAMILY | This picturesque compound on the grounds of an old chicken ranch in rural Tesuque is home to a rambling sculpture garden and art gallery. On sunny afternoons, there are few more picturesque places to admire art than the tranquil garden, in which you’ll find dazzling large-scale works in bronze and other metals. The gallery shows a variety of crafts and other works, from wood carvings to fiber. 1508 Bishop’s Lodge Rd., 5 miles north of the Plaza, North Side 505/988–8001 www.shidoni.com Closed Sun. and Mon.
Restaurants
$$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | It’s worth making the trek out to Santa Fe’s western mesa to dine at this outstanding bistro–cum–wineshop with a devout following among locals. At the store, stock up on often hard-to-find vintages from all over the world (for a $30 corkage fee, you can also enjoy your new Bordeaux or Albariño in the airy dining room or, when weather allows, the charming outdoor patio), and enjoy the menu of sublime contemporary American fare that changes regularly and is based on the incredible variety of seasonal produce grown on Arroyo Vino’s on-site farm. Known for: garden-fresh seasonal produce; excellent chicken liver pâté; stellar wine shop and selection. Average main: $29 218 Camino la Tierra, off NM 599, 4 miles west of U.S. 285/84, West of the Plaza 505/983–2100 www.arroyovino.com Closed Sun. and Mon. No lunch.
$ | CAFÉ | FAMILY | Although the name of this cheery bakery suggests sweets, and it does sweets especially well, Chocolate Maven also produces impressive savory breakfast and lunch fare. Meals are “farmers’ market–inspired” and feature seasonal dishes, including wild-mushroom-and-goat-cheese focaccia sandwiches, eggs ménage à trois (one each of eggs Benedict, Florentine, and Madison—the latter consisting of smoked salmon and poached egg), and Caprese salad of fresh mozzarella, basil, and tomatoes. Known for: excellent breakfast burritos; delicious baked goods and desserts; local, seasonal ingredients. Average main: $13 821 W. San Mateo St., South Side 505/984–1980 www.chocolatemaven.com No dinner.
$ | CAFÉ | FAMILY | Undeniably French, this bustling café serves authentic, delicious food. Walk through the door of this bright, open space and you’ll almost certainly be greeted with a cheery “bonjour” from Anne-Laure, who owns it with her husband, Philippe. Known for: bounteous salads and French omelets; famous clafoutis for dessert; some of the best baguettes and pastries in the city. Average main: $11 333 W. Cordova Rd., Old Santa Fe Trail and South Capitol 505/988–1809 Closed Sun. No dinner.
$ | CAFÉ | FAMILY | This low-key, slightly off-the-beaten-path café is worth finding for its delicious breakfasts, lunches, dinners, or even just afternoon coffee breaks—there’s a spacious covered patio (that’s dog-friendly) beyond the dining room with long communal tables and a few smaller, more private ones. Inside the hip industrial space, tuck into plates of huevos rancheros and other eggy fare in the morning, and a mix of Southwestern and Asian dishes later in the day. Known for: smothered breakfast burritos; well-prepared espresso drinks; cash-only policy. Average main: $13 930 Baca St., South Side 505/995–1105 www.counterculturesantafe.com No credit cards No dinner Sun. and Mon.
$$ | ECLECTIC | FAMILY | Ardent foodies regularly trek 4 miles south along traffic-choked Cerrillos Road to experience one of the more memorable “down home” farm-to-table dining adventures in Santa Fe. Situated in a nondescript shopping center, chef/owner Josh Gerwin serves up boldly flavored comfort cuisine that is a favorite of both locals and tourist, thanks to appearances on TV shows such as Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives. Known for: the famous “Bad Ass BLT” sandwich; house-smoked meats; brick-oven pizza. Average main: $16 2860 Cerrillos Rd., South Side 505/471–0043 www.drfieldgoods.com.
$$$ | CONTEMPORARY | This stylish, upscale restaurant located in the heart of little Tesuque village specializes in “live fire”—cooking directly over wood or coal on a specially made grill. The menu is rustic and seasonally influenced so it’s rare to find the same dish on the menu for more than a few weeks, but summer favorites can include sage smoked rainbow trout wood-grilled with artichoke, lobster sofrito, and preserved lemon or a Black Angus rib eye grilled over pecan wood with chimichurri fire-roasted veggies and green chile demi. Known for: pre-Santa Fe Opera dinners; impressive wine list; wood-fire grilled favorites. Average main: $30 1577 Bishop’s Lodge Rd., Tesuque 505/954–1272 www.elnidosantafe.com Closed Mon. No lunch.
$ | SOUTHWESTERN | FAMILY | This no-frills, family-owned local chain might not look like much from the outside, but its fast, fresh New Mexican cuisine is a standard favorite among most northern Mew Mexicans. Consistently praised for its superior chile, tacos, carne adovada, and breakfast burritos by locals and national media like, it’s worth a stop for those looking for a true New Mexican food experience. Known for: excellent breakfast burritos and tacos; casual, family-friendly atmosphere; quick lunch spot. Average main: $8 1833 Cerrillos Rd., South Side 505/995–8015 www.elparasol.com.
Harry’s Roadhouse
$ | ECLECTIC | FAMILY | This busy, friendly, art-filled compound 6 miles southeast of Downtown consists of several inviting rooms, from a diner-style space with counter seating to a cozier nook with a fireplace, and an enchanting courtyard out back with juniper trees and flower gardens. The varied menu of contemporary diner favorites, pizzas, New Mexican fare, and bountiful salads is supplemented by a long list of daily specials, which often include delicious international dishes and an array of scrumptious homemade desserts. Known for: friendly neighborhood hangout; stellar margaritas; house-made desserts. Average main: $13 96-B Old Las Vegas Hwy., 1 mile east of Old Pecos Trail exit off I–25, East Side and Canyon Road 505/989–4629 www.harrysroadhousesantafe.com.
$ | SOUTHWESTERN | Tucked behind the Giant gas station, this no-frills diner-style restaurant close to the many chain hotels along lower Cerrillos Road has long been a standout for some of the spiciest and tastiest northern New Mexican fare in town, including superb green chile-bacon-cheeseburgers, blue-corn tacos packed with beef or chicken, huevos rancheros, and the hearty plato sabroso (a 12-ounce rib steak with rolled enchilada, beans, posole, rice, and hot sopaipilla with honey). Grab one of the comfy red-leatherette corner booths or a stool at the counter, and enjoy the people-watching. Known for: blue corn tacos with beef or chicken; green-chile bacon cheeseburgers; hearty New Mexican breakfasts. Average main: $10 4354 Cerrillos Rd., South Side 505/471–5420 www.facebook.com/horsemans.haven No dinner Sun.
$ | CAFÉ | First and foremost a lively coffeehouse that turns out expertly prepared pour-overs, lattes, cold brews, and other delicious espresso drinks using house-roasted beans, this funky, inviting space also serves tasty and eclectic salads, sandwiches, and tapas. The menu spans the globe, featuring breakfast tacos, Korean steak bowls, ramen, and poached-egg salads. Known for: pour-over single-origin coffees; chocolate milk stout on tap; ramen with miso-coconut broth. Average main: $10 1600 Lena St., Suite A2, South Side 505/428–0996 www.iconikcoffee.com.
$$ | JAPANESE | Set in the pine-scented foothills northeast of town, the ethereal boutique resort and spa Ten Thousand Waves has always cultivated a tranquil Japanese aesthetic, and its on-site restaurant is no exception. The menu is izakaya-style and features an extensive list of sakes and shareable small plates—two or three per person is typically sufficient; highlights include oyster mushrooms in a rich tamari butter sauce, grilled avocado with nori sea salt and fresh wasabi, and fall-off-the-bone smoked pork ribs in a sweet chile glaze. Known for: omakase chef’s choice tasting menu; beautiful forest views; an outstanding selection of first-rate sakes. Average main: $16 Ten Thousand Waves, 21 Ten Thousand Waves Way, North Side 505/982–9304 www.tenthousandwaves.com/food No lunch Tues.
$ | AFRICAN | FAMILY | Ahmed Obo, the Kenyan-born owner who regularly tops the local paper’s “best chef” list, applies great skill and enthusiasm to the Afro-Caribbean food at this casual, homey eatery in a shopping center a couple of miles south of the Plaza. Flavors of coconut, peanuts, and curry influence everything from shrimp to goat stew. Known for: Caribbean goat stew; East African coconut lentil stew; African music and art. Average main: $14 2010 Cerrillos Rd., South Side 505/473–1269 www.jambocafe.net Closed Sun.
Madame Matisse
$ | FRENCH | This bright, modern bakery and café is a welcome change from the hustle and bustle of busy Cerrillos Road. The interior is crisp and clean with Matisse-inspired pops of color, and the food is inspired as well, with spot-on executions of French favorites for every meal including crepes, eggs Benedict, salads, sandwiches, and pastas. Known for: delectable baked goods; classic French cuisine; tasty omelets. Average main: $12 1291 San Felipe Ave., South Side 505/772–0949 www.facebook.com/MadamematisseSantaFe No dinner Sun.
$$ | MEXICAN | FAMILY | Yes, even in landlocked Santa Fe it’s possible to find incredibly fresh and well-prepared seafood served in big portions. This cheery, colorful Mexican restaurant surrounded by strip malls is just a short hop south of Downtown. Known for: delightfully friendly staff; ceviche tostadas; trout grilled with butter and paprika. Average main: $15 537 W. Cordova Rd., Old Santa Fe Trail and South Capitol 505/982–2790 www.facebook.com/mariscoslaplayanm.
$ | DINER | FAMILY | Since 1948, this beloved, family-owned greasy spoon with a familiar blue neon sign has been pleasing budget-minded locals and visitors with consistently tasty, New Mexican–style diner fare. Popular choices here include buckwheat pancakes, huevos consuelo (a corn tortilla topped with two eggs, spicy chile, and cheese, with the Pantry’s famous home fries), green-chile stew, tortilla burgers, and chicken-fried steak. Known for: excellent huevos consuelo; great value; down-home atmosphere. Average main: $9 1820 Cerrillos Rd., South Side 505/986–0022 www.pantrysantafe.com.
$$ | MODERN INDIAN | FAMILY | Begun as a catering business that threw occasional pop-up dinners, Paper Dosa became so beloved for its boldly flavored southern Indian cuisine that the owners opened what has become a tremendously popular brick-and-mortar restaurant. Dosas (large, thin crepes made with fermented rice and lentils and stuffed with different fillings) are the specialty here and come in about 10 varieties, from paneer and peas to a locally inspired version with green chile and three cheeses. Known for: dosas with interesting fillings; chile-dusted mango salad; a thoughtful, diverse wine list. Average main: $17 551 W. Cordova Rd., Old Santa Fe Trail and South Capitol 505/930–5521 www.paper-dosa.com Closed Mon.
$$ | BARBECUE | FAMILY | Given New Mexico’s deep ties to its easterly neighbor, the Lone Star State, it’s hardly surprising that the region has some top-notch barbecue joints, including this spacious, contemporary adobe building with two large patios. It looks a bit fancy but still turns out superb, fall-off-the-bone barbecue brisket, baby-back ribs, pulled pork, and smoked half-chicken. Known for: barbecue brisket; steaks and fish tacos; daily happy hour from 4 to 6. Average main: $18 2571 Cristo’s Rd., South Side 505/424–8900 www.theranchhousesantafe.com.
$ | AMERICAN | FAMILY | Tiny Rowley Farmhouse Ales has won several awards at the Great American Beer Festival, including three medals for its sour style ales, so if you like beer (any kind of beer) a stop at Rowley is a must. In addition to offering its own brews, Rowley also has an extensive list of local and imported beers and ciders that it finds inspiring, along with comfort foods like shrimp po’boys, cast iron skillet green chile mac n’ cheese, and chicken and waffles. Known for: award-winning small-batch sour ales; creative pub food; extensive international beer list. Average main: $12 1405 Maclovia St., South Side 505/428–0719 www.rowleyfarmhouse.com.
$ | CAFÉ | FAMILY | In Lone Butte, about 20 miles south of Downtown Santa Fe along the northern end of the scenic Turquoise Trail, this funky spot is known for its creative fare and nontraditional setting: an actual feed store selling propane, hardware, tools, and farm animal feed, with roosters, turkeys, and peacocks running about outside. In one of the two bric-a-brac–filled dining rooms, sample rich cinnamon rolls and such delectables as burritos stuffed with roast beef and potatoes and topped with green chile. Known for: the Feed Store burrito (with hash browns, bacon, cheese, chile, and egg); offbeat farmyard setting; long waits on weekend mornings. Average main: $9 3877 NM 14, South Side 505/471–9298 Closed Tues. No dinner.
$ | BURGER | FAMILY | John and Bonnie Eckre, the former owners of the legendary but now defunct Bobcat Bite burger joint, now serve their juicy green-chile cheeseburgers and humongous 16-ounce “Big Bite” burgers—along with hefty steaks, enchiladas, and tacos—in this kitsch-filled strip mall space south of town. There’s breakfast, too: morning highlights include huevos rancheros, gluten-free buttermilk waffles, and traditional steak-and-eggs. Known for: green-chile cheeseburgers; hearty breakfast fare; malted milkshakes. Average main: $14 1616 St. Michaels Dr., South Side 505/428–0328 www.santafebite.com Closed Mon.
$$$$ | MODERN AMERICAN | Among the many reasons guests of the Four Seasons Rancho Encantado often find it difficult to ever leave the gloriously situated property is this handsome yet down-to-earth restaurant that serves tantalizingly delicious and creative contemporary American and Southwestern cuisine. A specialty here is the exquisitely plated seafood, from ahi tuna and beef carpaccio to grilled prawns with cucumber “spaghetti,” wild mushrooms, prickly pear pesto, macadamia crumbs, and bacon. Known for: creatively prepared seafood; romantic atmosphere; stunning mountain views. Average main: $39 Four Seasons Rancho Encantado, 198 NM 592, North Side 505/946–5700 www.fourseasons.com/santafe.
Hotels
$$ | B&B/INN | A delightful, affordable, country hacienda that’s a 15-minute drive southeast of the Plaza, this adobe bed-and-breakfast sits amid 10 secluded acres of piñon and ponderosa pine, with grand views of the Ortiz Mountains and the area’s high-desert mesas. Pros: gracious inn and secluded location; wonderful hosts; spectacular views. Cons: located outside of town; small bathrooms in some rooms; breakfast not served until 8:30 am. Rooms from: $165 442 Old Las Vegas Hwy., South Side 505/988–9239 www.bobcatinn.com 8 rooms Free Breakfast.
$$ | HOTEL | A circa 1936 motor court along Cerillos Road, El Rey Court was redesigned and now attracts design aficianados and Instagram influencers with its hip take on modern, 1950s-inspired Southwest decor. Pros: Instagramable modern Southwestern design; fun on-site bar; friendly and laid-back vibe. Cons: some noise from the bar; rates vary widely; no restaurant on-site. Rooms from: $200 1862 Cerrillos Rd., South Side 505/982–1931 www.elreycourt.com 86 rooms No meals.
Four Seasons Resort Rancho Encantado Santa Fe
$$$$ | RESORT | This secluded and stunning luxury compound on a dramatic, sunset-facing bluff in the Sangre de Cristo foothills exemplifies the Four Seasons brand’s famously flawless sense of gracious hospitality and efficiency. Pros: freestanding couples spa suites; complimentary minibar (nonalcoholic beverages only); stunning rooms and views. Cons: several of the private terraces overlook parking lots; remote location; large property requires walking but on-site transport is readily available. Rooms from: $700 198 NM 592, North Side 505/946–5700, 855/674–5401 www.fourseasons.com/santafe 65 rooms No meals.
$$$ | RESORT | This tranquil 70-acre resort offers 32 rooms overlooking verdant gardens and 20 casitas with gas fireplaces and secluded patios, plus a first-rate spa focused on energy healing and integrative medicine, a variety of open-air soaking tubs, a large outdoor pool, yoga and fitness studios, a sweat lodge, and an outstanding restaurant—Blue Heron—serving healthy, locally sourced contemporary fare. Pros: great restaurant using organic vegetables and herbs grown on-site; unbelievably soothing cottonwood-shaded soaking tubs; superb spa with an extensive list of treatments (including playing with puppies!). Cons: 20-minute drive away from Downtown; located in very rural setting; property size requires a lot of walking. Rooms from: $270 242 Los Pinos Rd., South Side 877/977–8212 ojosantafe.ojospa.com 52 rooms No meals.
$$ | HOTEL | This compound consists of clusters of three-story town houses with pitched roofs and tall chimneys. Pros: complimentary full breakfast; evening socials; grocery-shopping service. Cons: not within easy walking distance of many restaurants or attractions; near hospital so there can be siren noise; very busy business area. Rooms from: $179 1698 Galisteo St., South Side 505/988–7300, 800/331–3131 www.marriott.com/safnm 120 suites Free Breakfast.
$ | HOTEL | This low-slung adobe property significantly transcends the generally sketchy quality of the several other budget motels along Cerrillos Road, thanks to the tireless efforts of its owner. Pros: superaffordable; good-size rooms, some with refrigerators; friendly, helpful staff. Cons: rooms toward the front get noise from Cerrillos Road; very few frills; a 15-minute drive from the Plaza. Rooms from: $75 2810 Cerrillos Rd., South Side 505/471–7663 www.santafesilversaddlemotel.com 27 rooms Free Breakfast.
$$$ | RESORT | Devotees appreciate the authentic onsen (Japanese-style baths) atmosphere of this award-winning 20-acre Japanese-inspired spa and boutique resort in the picturesque foothills a few miles northeast of town. Pros: sleek, stylish decor; outstanding restaurant; a soothing, spiritual vibe. Cons: a bit remote; the spa and baths can get crowded with day visitors; some areas can be difficult to access. Rooms from: $290 3451 Hyde Park Rd., 4 miles northeast of the Plaza, North Side 505/982–9304 www.tenthousandwaves.com 14 cottages Free Breakfast.
Nightlife
The Alley
GATHERING PLACES | FAMILY | This hybrid family fun center/date night/sports bar/bowling alley in DeVargas Center truly has something for everyone (or at least everyone who loves fun). Both food and bar service are available throughout the facility, whether you’re knocking down pins on the 12-lane bowling alley, cracking some bocce balls on one of two indoor courts, or chalking up your cue stick at one of the various pool tables. A couple of shuffleboard tables and some arcade games round out the experience. A great option for families needing a break from sightseeing or a little indoor fun on a rainy day, it’s also a lot of fun at night, when things really get hopping. DeVargas Center, 153 Paseo de Peralta, West of the Plaza 505/557–6789 www.thealleysantafe.com.
BARS/PUBS | FAMILY | The Southwest’s first producer of artisanal alcoholic kombucha is impressive not just for the quality of its fermented brews, but also for its upstart business plan, garnering seed capital from both Los Alamos National Laboratory’s Venture Acceleration Fund and Miller Lite’s “Tap the Future” Business Plan Competition. The laid-back tasting room, located in a convenient shopping center, welcomes visitors to bring their own food from neighboring restaurants or the co-op grocery store and is both family-friendly and good for a date night. If you haven’t tried “hard” kombucha, this is your chance. Kombuchas are available in tasting flights, as well as by glass or to-go. For those with differing tastes, beer and wine are also available. Live music and a chill atmosphere make this a great spot to try something new and relax with a creative group of locals. Solana Shopping Center, 907 W. Alameda St., Suite B, South Side 505/303–3139 www.honeymoonbrewery.com.
BREWPUBS/BEER GARDENS | FAMILY | A little off the beaten path, about a 20-minute drive south of the Plaza right where the Turquoise Trail intersects with Interstate 25, this respected craft brewery—the state’s oldest—serves fine ales as well as offering tours at its two-story flagship, the Beer Hall at HQ. A variety of beer-friendly food is served via a creative shipping container kitchen and can be eaten indoors or out in the expansive seating area. Santa Fe Brewing Company also has a cozy, smaller tasting room called the Brakeroom, in a historic building on Galisteo Street, and hosts live music at its indoor/outdoor music venue, the Bridge. 35 Fire Pl., off NM 14, South Side 505/424–3333 www.santafebrewing.com.
Second Street Brewery Rufina Taproom
BREWPUBS/BEER GARDENS | FAMILY | The newest taproom of local favorite Second Street Brewery is located in a 20,000 square foot building that houses a production brewery and canning line. But it’s most popular for its consistent live music line-up, an extensive pub food menu (including everything from tater tots to ramen), and its large, dog-friendly deck. Located near Meow Wolf and other arts-focused start-ups and non-profits, it’s one of the best places to rub elbows with Santa Fe’s hippest. 2920 Rufina St., Santa Fe 505/954–1068 www.secondstreetbrewery.com.
Tumbleroot Brewery and Distillery
BARS/PUBS | FAMILY | Within this large industrial building in a quiet neighborhood south of town, you’ll find a lively community gathering place that hosts regular live music acts, fundraisers, DJs, and more. Families can take advantage of the large outdoor area for kids to play and there is plenty of space for large groups inside the building. Also inside you’ll find some of the region’s best scratch-made beers and spirits, from Juicy IPA and Honey Hibiscus Wheat to gin and whiskey crafted with local ingredients. Pub fare is available from the on-site kitchen as well as the East Root food truck, which specializes in Asian-influenced bites. On busy weekends, it can get pretty crowded and the line for a drink can have you waiting over an hour; get there early to enjoy a cocktail before the place starts jumping. 2791 Agua Fria St., South Side 505/780–5730 www.tumblerootbreweryanddistillery.com.
BOOKS
Photo-eye Bookstore and Gallery
BOOKS/STATIONERY | The place to go for an almost unbelievable collection of new, rare, and out-of-print photography books; the staff is made up of photographers who are excellent sources of information and advice on great spots to shoot in and around Santa Fe. The store has an impressive gallery in the Railyard District (541 S. Guadalupe St.) that presents fine photography. 1300 Rufina Circle, Suite A3, South Side 505/988–5152 www.photoeye.com.
FOOD AND DRINK
Las Cosas Kitchen Shoppe & Cooking School
SPECIALTY STORES | FAMILY | In DeVargas shopping center, Las Cosas Kitchen Shoppe stocks a fantastic selection of cookery, tableware, and kitchen gadgetry and gifts. The shop is also renowned for its cooking classes taught by local personality chef Johnny Vee, which touch on everything from high-altitude baking and northern New Mexican specialties to Chinatown classics and Vietnamese street food. For those looking to really up their culinary game, Johnny Vee also offers regular classes on techniques such as braising, grilling, and fundamentals including knife skills and pressure cooking. Classes are Tuesday and Friday night, as well as Saturday morning. If you’ve got a tight schedule or a big group, Las Cosas and chef Johnny are happy to schedule something just for you. De Vargas Center, 181 Paseo de Peralta, at N. Guadalupe St., West of the Plaza 505/988–3394 www.lascosascooking.com.
GIFTS AND HOME FURNISHINGS
Jackalope
ANTIQUES/COLLECTIBLES | FAMILY | You could easily spend a couple of hours wandering through this legendary indoor–outdoor bazaar, which sprawls over 7 acres, incorporating pottery barns, a furniture store, endless aisles of knickknacks from Latin America and Asia, and a glassblowing studio. There’s also an area where craftspeople, artisans, and others sell their wares—sort of a mini–flea market. 2820 Cerrillos Rd., South Side 505/471–8539 www.jackalope.com.
Pandora’s
HOUSEHOLD ITEMS/FURNITURE | Beautiful, carefully curated items for the home—some produced regionally and others from Peru, Uzbekistan, the Congo, and other far-flung lands—are the specialty of this colorful boutique in DeVargas Center. Keep an eye out for quilts made by a weaving co-op in Vietnam and brightly colored Missoni bath linens. 173 Paseo de Peralta, West of the Plaza 505/982–3298 www.pandorasantafe.com.
Activities
HIKING
HIKING/WALKING | FAMILY | Especially in autumn, when golden aspens shimmer on the mountainside, this trail up near Santa Fe’s ski area makes for a lovely hike. After walking a few miles through thick aspen groves you come to panoramic views of Santa Fe. The path, which is well marked and gradually inclines toward Tesuque Peak, becomes steeper with elevation—also note that snow has been reported on the upper portions of the trail as late as July. In winter, after heavy snows, the trail is great for intermediate–advanced cross-country skiing. The full hike to the peak makes for a long, rigorous day—it’s 12 miles round-trip and sees an elevation gain of 2,000 feet, but it’s just 3½ miles to the spectacular overlook. Note that the Aspen Vista Picnic Site is also the trailhead for the Alamo Vista Trail, which leads to the summit of the ski area. Hyde Park Rd. (NM 475), 2 miles before ski area, North Side Parking lot at Aspen Vista Picnic Site.
HORSEBACK RIDING
New Mexico’s rugged countryside has been the setting for many Hollywood Westerns. Whether you want to ride the range that Gregory Peck and Kevin Costner tamed or just head out feeling tall in the saddle, you can do so year-round.
SKIING
SKIING/SNOWBOARDING | FAMILY | Open roughly from late November through early April, this is a somewhat underrated, midsize ski and snowboard operation that receives an average of 225 inches of snow a year and plenty of sunshine. It’s one of America’s highest ski areas—the 12,075-foot summit has unbelievable views and a varied terrain which make its 1,725 feet of vertical rise and 660 acres seem even bigger. There are some great powder stashes, tough bump runs, and many wide, gentle cruising runs. The 87 trails are ranked 20% beginner, 40% intermediate, and 40% advanced; there are seven lifts: one quad, two triples, two doubles, and two surface lifts. Chipmunk Corner provides day care and supervised kids’ skiing. The ski school is excellent. Rentals, a ski shop, and a good restaurant round out the amenities at bright and modern La Casa Lodge base-camp, and Totemoff’s Bar and Grill is a welcome midmountain option with frequent live music during the season. While Ski Santa Fe doesn’t offer cross-country skiing, there are many Nordic trails available off of Hyde Park Road just before the downhill ski area. Ski Santa Fe is also fun for hiking during the summer months and the Super Chief Quad Chair operates from late August through mid-October, catering to hikers and shutterbugs eager to view the high-mountain fall foliage, including acres of shimmering golden aspens. End of NM 475, 18 miles northeast of Downtown, North Side 505/982–4429 general info, 505/983–9155 snow report www.skisantafe.com.
