Essential Ingredients

The recipes in this book highlight a diverse array of ingredients. But knowing how to best choose and prepare the fundamentals is the first step to a spectacular cookie.

Butter

In general, we recommend unsalted butter to better control levels of sodium. For some recipes, such as shortbread, use a European-style high-butterfat butter (at least 82%), so its rich flavor shines. When creaming butter and sugar, let the butter come to room temperature—a finger pressed into it should lightly indent it. If you forget to take the butter out of the refrigerator in advance, microwave it in 5-second increments until softened. Or grate it on the large holes of a box grater set over a bowl; it will soften faster than a stick.

Eggs

Eggs are easier to separate when they’re cold. But they should be brought to room temperature before using in order to better blend with other ingredients. If you haven’t done that, soak them in a bowl of warm water for about 10 minutes.

Sugar

Sugar lends sweetness to dough and provides a caramelized flavor and golden color. Most of our recipes call for granulated sugar. When using brown sugar, pack it into a measuring cup. Confectioners’ sugar (finely powdered sugar combined with cornstarch) is a main ingredient in icings and glazes; sift it to remove lumps. Sanding sugar, in fine or coarse grain and various colors, is prized for its sparkle and used for decorating.

Flour

Most of our cookies call for all-purpose flour. We prefer unbleached, as it provides more structure and retains more of the nuances of the wheat. To measure, whisk the flour, then spoon it into a measuring cup and use a knife to level the top, scraping off excess. Add it gradually to the dough, on low speed, and mix until just incorporated, as overmixing results in tougher cookies.

Salt

A small amount of salt balances the sweetness of a cookie and sharpens its flavor. Most recipes call for coarse salt (kosher salt; we like Diamond Crystal), as it dissolves quickly. For sprinkling on top of cookies, use finishing sea salts, such as Maldon or fleur de sel.

Coloring

Food coloring, from natural ingredients like freeze-dried fruit to gel coloring, gives our icings and frostings their beautiful hues. When using gel-paste food coloring, add a drop at a time, or dab a little with a toothpick, and blend well before adding more. Liquid coloring will thin out and dilute the icing or frosting, so add less at first, whisking to combine, and add more if needed.

Chocolate

Our recipes showcase a variety of chocolates, from semisweet or bittersweet, for which we prefer at least 61% cacao, to white. Cocoa powder can be natural or Dutch-process. Natural is untreated and has a pure chocolate flavor; it provides a reddish-brown tone to baked goods. Dutch-process is milder, with a dark, almost black hue when baked.