serves 6
Once, at a dinner party of my friend Anya, little white espresso cups filled with some kind of steaming liquid were passed around as hors d’oeuvres. Deep in conversation, I took an absent-minded sip that instantly dazzled me: a gorgeous soup, possessing a velvety texture and a zesty, spicy flavor.
It was her red lentil soup, and I was smitten. After a moderate amount of pleading, Anya promised to send me the recipe the next day.
As I figured from that small portion, the ingredient list called for broth, onion, cumin, garlic, lemons, chili powder, and red lentils, which cook faster than brown or green lentils and don’t hold their shape well—ideal for soup. Then came some surprises: dried mint, fresh tomatoes, and bulgur—none of which were in my cupboard at the moment.
As determined as I was to make that soup, I was equally determined not to leave the house. Instead of tomatoes, I used a fat dollop of tomato paste and a chopped carrot to compensate for the lost vegetable matter and ruddy color. The bulgur was a harder swap-out, so I left it out altogether and doubled the lentils. Half an hour later, my lentil soup was bubbling hot and ready. To substitute for the mint, I floated a handful of chopped cilantro over the surface.
Lighter and brothier, my version had a buoyant, lemony disposition grounded by a profound cumin-and-chili backbone.
Even better, if I kept a supply of red lentils around, I could make the soup in under an hour whenever my heart desired. And I’ve been making it ever since.
¼ cup olive oil
2 large onions, chopped
4 garlic cloves, minced
2 tablespoons tomato paste
2 teaspoons ground cumin
½ teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Pinch chili powder or cayenne, plus more to taste
2 quarts chicken broth or vegetable broth
2 cups red lentils
2 large carrots, diced
Freshly squeezed juice of 1 lemon, or more to taste
⅓ cup chopped fresh cilantro, mint, or parsley
Good olive oil, for drizzling
1. In a large pot over high heat, heat the oil until hot and shimmering. Add the onions and garlic and sauté until golden, about 4 minutes.
2. Stir in the tomato paste, cumin, salt, pepper, and chili powder and sauté for 2 minutes more.
3. Add the broth, 2 cups water, the lentils, and the carrots. Bring to a simmer, then partially cover the pot and reduce the heat to medium-low. Simmer until the lentils are soft, about 30 minutes. Taste and add more salt if necessary.
4. Using an immersion or regular blender or a food processor, puree half the soup (it should be somewhat chunky, not smooth).
5. Reheat the soup if necessary, then stir in the lemon juice and cilantro, mint, or parsley. Serve the soup drizzled with good olive oil and dusted very lightly with chili powder, if desired.