weekday staple

Buttery, garlicky, spicy calamari with Israeli couscous

serves 4

When I think of fast food, I think of calamari. It’s probably one of the least expensive, tastiest, quickest-cooking sea creatures out there, all the while being sustainable and plentiful, so there’s no reason not to eat it all the time. Which we do.

The squid I buy at the fish store is a snap to cook with because it comes well cleaned. I slice up the bodies while the oil heats, and this dish is ready in under 10 minutes.

The squid from the farmers’ market, however, demands a bit more attention, since it comes straight off the fishing boat and can be sandy. I give it a strong rinse under lots of cold water to dislodge lingering grit (make sure to flush out the cavity). The clean, ocean flavor of this über-fresh squid makes it worth the extra sand-removal effort.

Once you’ve got your squid in order, this dish really does cook in minutes, so make sure you have everything else on the table—the salad in the bowl waiting to be tossed with vinaigrette, the wine poured, and the candles lit (yes, this dish is candle-worthy)—before you starting heating the pan. In minutes, you’ll serve a savory, garlicky, herb-flecked squid to your favorite people, who couldn’t be happier had you slaved at the stove all day long.

Large pinch coarse kosher salt, plus more for the cooking water

1½ cups Israeli couscous

2½ tablespoons olive oil

1½ pounds squid, cut into ½-inch pieces and patted as dry as you can get it

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil

Large pinch (or two) crushed red pepper flakes

3 large garlic cloves, minced

Large pinch freshly ground black pepper

Freshly squeezed lemon juice, to taste

1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the couscous and cook until tender, 4 to 5 minutes. Drain well, toss with ½ tablespoon of the olive oil, and keep warm.

2. In a very large skillet over high heat, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil until it begins to smoke. Carefully add the squid, butter, parsley, basil, red pepper flakes, and garlic (if your pan is small you may have to do this in two batches; you don’t want it too full to toss). Cook, tossing frequently, until the squid is opaque and cooked through, 3 to 4 minutes. Season to taste with salt, black pepper, and lemon juice. Add the couscous to the pan and toss until incorporated.