weekday staple

Roasted chicken thighs with apples, gin, and coriander seeds

serves 2 or 3

The beauty of this recipe is not just the gorgeous melding of flavors, but how quickly and easily I can throw it together all year round. Cut into finger-size strips, the chicken and very thinly sliced apples cook in only twenty minutes, during which time they miraculously produce a pan sauce that is fragrant and heady.

Even better, that sauce results from just a few kitchen staples. Along with the requisite garlic, olive oil, salt, and pepper, I added cilantro, an herb I adore year in and out. Then from the spice cabinet, I pulled out the coriander seeds, which I had no doubt would go perfectly well with the cilantro.

I tipped in some vermouth from the too-tall bottle in the fridge, and was about to stick everything in the oven when I started to worry that the subtle flavor of vermouth wouldn’t be lively enough to lift the dish. Then I remembered the words of my father when he counseled me on zipping up a scallop pan roast.

“Gin,” he said, “makes everything taste better.”

And it is certainly on friendly terms with vermouth. So I added a few drops.

Soon the kitchen was enveloped in an apple-and-curry-spice perfume. The dish was exotic and fragrant, with the coriander seeds adding a pleasing crunch against the tender apples. Twenty minutes in the oven created a martini-like alchemy, just right for dinner.

1 large or 2 small apples

1 pound boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into 1-inch strips

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon white vermouth

1½ teaspoons gin

2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro, dill, or parsley

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon coriander seeds

½ teaspoon kosher salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Crusty bread or cooked rice, for serving