weekday staple

Lamb merguez burgers with harissa mayonnaise

serves 4

There is a minimalist elegance to a good hamburger. Simply seasoned with salt and pepper and grilled to medium-rare perfection, it needs nothing more than a soft white bun, though an assortment of tasty accoutrements can only make things better—if you’re the burger-topping type.

At the other end of the spectrum is my spicy lamb burger. Imbued with coriander, fennel, cayenne, and plenty of onion and garlic, it’s got the same flavor profile as a merguez sausage in a burger-patty package. When served charred on the outside and juicy within, it is bold, intense, deeply savory, and as far from minimalist as you can get, in the best possible way.

I like to serve it in a whole wheat pita pocket swathed in harissa mayonnaise and piled high with crunchy vegetables. But the fiery, gamy flavors of chile and lamb can easily stand alone on the plate—before you come along to gobble it up.

½ teaspoon coriander seeds

½ teaspoon fennel seeds

1 pound ground lamb

¼ cup finely chopped onion

2 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1½ teaspoons kosher salt

1 teaspoon paprika

Pinch cayenne

Olive oil, for brushing

⅓ cup mayonnaise

1½ teaspoons harissa, or to taste

4 whole wheat or regular pita breads

Sliced cucumber, for serving

Sliced tomatoes, for serving

Salad greens, for serving

1. In a dry skillet over medium heat, toast the coriander and fennel until fragrant. Transfer the spices to a spice grinder and finely grind (alternatively, you can use a mortar and pestle).

2. In a large bowl, mix together the ground spices, lamb, onion, butter, garlic, salt, paprika, and cayenne until just combined. Form into 4 equal-size patties, about ¾ inch thick.

3. Preheat a grill to medium-high. Brush the grate lightly with oil. Place the burgers on the grill. Close the cover and cook to the desired doneness, about 3 minutes per side for medium-rare. Let the burgers rest for 5 minutes before serving.

4. In a small bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise and harissa; taste and add more harissa if desired. Spoon the harissa mayo into the pitas. Fill the pitas with the burgers, cucumber, tomatoes, and greens and serve immediately.