weekday staple

Celery salad with walnuts and Parmesan

serves 4

When there’s nothing else in the house to make into salad, I remember the celery.

It’s always there when I need it to be, a neglected stalwart usually just waiting to be mixed up with tuna and mayo or sautéed into a soup. Sometimes I’ll forget about it for weeks. But then, when I’m craving a salad and the greens in the fridge are sad and wilted, I’ll slice up some crisp celery stalks, toss them with a little olive oil and lemon juice, and enjoy a quickly made, always available salad with a juicy fresh bite.

If I’ve got them on hand, sometimes I’ll sprinkle a few walnuts into the salad bowl. The nuts add a different kind of crunch—a softer, buttery, rich crunch against the celery’s watery, cold, snappy crunch. The two together are compelling, especially when topped with some shaved good Parmesan cheese to add a salty creaminess to the mix (but any aged cheese, such as Cheddar, Gouda, or Manchego, can stand in nicely). I’ll eat it all up, and think, Why don’t I make this more often? It makes me happy every time.

1 cup walnuts

1½ tablespoons red wine vinegar

½ teaspoon kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil

8 large celery stalks, with leaves, thinly sliced

2 ounces good Parmesan cheese, shaved

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.

2. Spread the walnuts in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet. Toast in the oven, tossing once halfway through, until the nuts are golden, 7 to 10 minutes. Let cool and coarsely chop.

3. In a small bowl, whisk together the vinegar, salt, and pepper to taste; whisk in the oil. Combine the walnuts, celery and leaves, and cheese in a large salad bowl. Add the vinaigrette and toss gently to combine.