serves 6
For years, my preferred way to eat Brussels sprouts was halved and roasted until the outer leaves got crisp and dark brown, while the centers softened and mellowed. The recipe was almost too easy. I just tossed the halved sprouts with olive oil and salt, roasted them at high heat, and then ate them by the bowlful.
Then I met a whole other kind of Brussels sprout dish. Instead of halved, these sprouts were shredded, then quickly sautéed over high heat so the edges turned golden. Compared to the halved sprouts, there was more browning, which meant more caramelization and a sweeter flavor. But another thing I liked was the way the shreds absorbed all the good seasonings in the pan, which never quite penetrate the dense halved sprouts in the same way.
When I made my own shredded sprouts a few weeks later, I looked toward Northern Europe for inspiration. I started with pancetta, crisping it in the pan and rendering out fat to coat the shreds. I hoped its gentle, porky flavor would bring out the sweetness of the sprouts. I also added a pinch of caraway seeds to the pan because the pile of shredded sprouts in my food processor looked a little like green cabbage, and green cabbage reminds me of Germany, and Germany reminds me of caraway.
The final sprouts were pure bliss—tender, crisp-edged, pork-coated, and garlicky—and well worth the deviation.
1 pound Brussels sprouts
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1½ teaspoons caraway seeds
4 ounces pancetta, diced small (½ cup)
½ teaspoon kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1. Use a paring knife to trim the bottoms of the sprouts; peel away any browned leaves. In a food processor fitted with the slicing blade, shred the Brussels sprouts. Toss the sprouts with 2 tablespoons of the oil, the garlic, and the caraway seeds.
2. In a large skillet over medium-high heat, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil. Add the pancetta and cook until golden, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the Brussels sprout mixture and cook, tossing, until wilted, 1 to 2 minutes. Season with the salt and pepper to taste.