RABBIT CACCIATORE

SERVES 4 TO 6

One of the things that makes this dish so good is that it’s served over a bed of Italian-style polenta with grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. There are a number of small game dishes in my personal repertoire that involve sauces and polenta. It’s a brilliant combination, in my opinion, and almost guaranteed to please (but it’s equally tasty over pasta or a hunk of crusty bread). What’s especially cool about cacciatore is that it’s an Italian word that translates as “hunter.” In Italy, when a dish is described as alla cacciatore, or “hunter’s style,” it means braised with traditional ingredients of tomatoes, herbs, onion, and wine. You’ll see that this dish calls for a bit of game stock. You can always substitute low-sodium chicken broth, but making game stock is a lot of fun and it puts to good use the bones and trimmings from your kill.

 

FOR THE RABBIT: Cut the rabbits (or squirrels) into 4 leg pieces and 2 back pieces. On larger rabbits, cut each back leg into 2 pieces and the backs into 3 pieces. Sprinkle the meat liberally on all sides with salt and pepper. Heat the oil in a heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Brown the meat on all sides, about 10 minutes. Remove to a plate. Add the onion and cook until translucent, about 8 minutes. Add the celery and mushrooms and cook until softened, about 8 minutes. Add the garlic and red chile flakes and cook, stirring, for 30 seconds, or until fragrant. Add the wine, scraping any browned bits from the bottom of the pot. Put the tomatoes in a bowl, crush them with your hands, and add them to the pot. Pour in the stock and season with a pinch of salt. Add the meat back to the pot and bring to a simmer. Add the rosemary sprigs and bay leaf. Reduce the heat and cook at a low simmer until the meat is tender and just beginning to release from the bone, up to 1½ hours or more for a wild rabbit, depending on its size. Discard the rosemary sprigs and bay leaf.

Spoon the rabbit onto a platter. Top with the sauce and garnish with the parsley and cheese. Serve over polenta, freshly cooked pasta, or with a hunk of crusty bread.

 

ALSO WORKS WITH: Squirrel and snowshoe hare, even a younger jackrabbit.