†By offering pâté de grives on their card, the Troisgros were flying deliberately in the face of a hoary old legend well known to everyone in France. On the (sometimes legitimate) assumption that many of the less rectitudinous caterers and charcutiers push thriftiness to extreme limits, the legend postulates a standard professional list of ingredients required for the pâté: one thrush, one horse; one thrush, one horse . . .