†Naegellen of Michelin savors the memory of a rare bit of one-upsmanship that he practiced on Bocuse. Taking advantage of a conference of the company’s international staff, he played the part of an anonymous businessman in town for some anonymous meeting and sent no less than six inspectors together for dinner at Collonges. Like all his confrères, Bocuse is always on the lookout for single inspectors. This time he was flummoxed but good.