*One of the restaurant critics who spooked Bernard most thoroughly was Patricia Wells, wife of Walter Wells, executive editor of the Paris Herald Tribune. In his Burgundy Stars, author William Echikson reported Bernard’s perplexity at her qualification of the food at Saulieu as “tiddlywinks cuisine,” whatever that was supposed to mean. Bernard was certain that Wells bore him a personal animus for his relentlessly self-promoting style. “He was always ill at ease with her,” said chef de rang Eric Rousseau. “She just didn’t like him, and it showed up in what she wrote. She always found something to criticize.”