*The three basic elements flavoring this Burgundian classic may be immutable, but the critters they accompany and ennoble are hardly ever native anymore. Their natural habitats and preferred foods having been largely destroyed by the intensive industrial-style farming, by which France profits from the subsidies of the European Union’s Common Agricultural Policy, frogs (and snails) have dramatically declined in population in the French countryside. These delicacies now have to be air-freighted in to gourmet kitchens, mostly from Turkey and Eastern Europe, where the former communist regimes had not been not rich enough or efficient enough to carry out vast programs of rural pollution with pesticides and synthesized fertilizers.