*Chapel enjoyed desanctifying pompous rituals of gastronomy, and instructed his maîtres d’hôtel to encourage guests to eat both the deep-fried fish and the delicate lacework of fried parsley that accompanied it with their hands. Just so, a few years later, did maîtres d’hôtel in Saulieu instruct their guests to pick up their frog leg lollipops and enjoy them that way. Bernard chose well the masters he emulated.