*Renée Richard, the ageless, eternally blonde, perfectly coiffed, white-bloused, tart-tongued Rabelaisian mistress of the best cheese stall in the Halles de Lyon, the wholesale-retail food market in the Part Dieu section of town, became world-famous because Bocuse bought his cheeses exclusively from her. Apart from the pitiless sarcasm of her repartee (don’t mess with La Mère Richard), she is revered by gastronomes for having popularized the lovely, creamy Saint-Marcellin, a cheese from the mountainous Isère region.