TURTLE CROSSING SIGN IN SOUTH HERO
ESTIMATED LENGTH: 48 miles
ESTIMATED TIME: 1 to 2 days
HIGHLIGHTS: Stunning lake views framed by classic summer camps. Apple orchards bursting with ripe, red fruit. Fossils and the first European settlement in Vermont. These are the things that shape the character of the Champlain Islands. Mosey along US 2, the main artery that slices through the islands, with stops at antiques shops, farm stands, art galleries, and museums. Then scoot down the backroads to discover what other surprises await.
GETTING THERE: Take I-89 to Exit 17, and then follow US 2 about 5 miles to Sand Bar State Park, where this route begins. Alternatively, you can start at the northern end, crossing over the Rouses Point Bridge into Alburgh from Rouses Point, New York, to pick up US 2, or west on US 7 from Swanton to VT 78, then proceed through East Alburgh to US 2.
ON THE ROAD
There’s an air of timeless tranquility about the Champlain Islands, an archipelago composed of three main islands—South Hero, North Hero, and Isle La Motte—that hopscotch across Lake Champlain in northwestern Vermont. The Alburgh Peninsula that stretches down from Quebec is part of this grouping, as are a handful of offshore islands accessible only by boat.
The chain of islands, connected by bridges and causeways, is a mere 30 miles long and only 4 miles across at the widest point. Yet they’re chockablock with places to visit and things to do, especially in the warmer months. If planning a visit, keep in mind that many places are only open seasonally, generally from Memorial Day through fall foliage season, with some closing by Labor Day.
As you approach the entrance to Sand Bar State Park (802-893-2825), check for ospreys nesting in the trees and on platforms in the marshy areas, part of the 1,560-acre Sand Bar National Waterfowl Management Area. Established in 1920, this is excellent habitat for muskrats, beavers, and several species of reptiles and amphibians, as well as a pit stop for migratory birds that follow the Atlantic Flyway in spring and fall. The state park, popular with families for its long sand beach, shallow water, and extensive picnic area, began as a Civilian Conservation Corps project. Under this public work relief program, a cadre of young men developed the park in the early 1930s, including the construction of a stone bathhouse that is still in use today. Although unofficially considered part of the Champlain Islands, the park’s address is the town of Milton. A swim or picnic here is the perfect way to kick off your exploration of the islands. The park also has paddleboards and other watercraft for rent.
As you leave the park, turn right to cross the Sandbar Causeway to South Hero, which is both the name of the island and the chain’s southernmost town. According to legend, South Hero and North Hero were named for two Vermont Revolutionary War heroes, brothers Ethan and Ira Allen. South Hero has a second community on its northern end, Grand Isle, which was known as Middle Hero until 1810.
YOUNG SWIMMERS AT SAND BAR STATE PARK
A pull-off area about halfway across provides a good vantage point to take in the view, although this won’t be your only opportunity to enjoy spectacular lake vistas. The Lake Champlain Inland Sea and the Green Mountains are off to your right, Malletts Bay and the Adirondacks in the distance on your left. As you travel through the islands, you are never far from water, a good reason to keep your binoculars handy. In addition to boats and abundant waterfowl, you just might spot Champ, Lake Champlain’s elusive Loch Ness Monster.
FIRST OF TWO HEROES
At the causeway’s terminus, after the sign for South Hero, is Apple Island Resort (802-372-3800), a lively RV campground with seasonal sites, a marina, golf course, and the Apple Island General Store (802-372-3733). Stop here to pick up lunch at the deli—the sandwiches are big enough to share—or coffee and a homemade pastry. The store also carries basic grocery items and supplies for anglers and campers.
The Arnold Zlotoff Tool Museum, located on the grounds of the resort, showcases one man’s passion for understanding how early carpenters, joiners, coopers, and other craftspeople created and used tools. Zlotoff, a New York City industrial arts teacher, assembled this impressive collection of more than 3,000 tools, dating from the colonial period to the early twentieth century, over a 40-year period. The museum, housed in an old barn, is open Saturdays from Memorial Day to Columbus Day.
Before you reach South Hero Village, take a left on Landon Road. About a half mile down this road is the Landon Community Trail, developed by the South Hero Land Trust (802-372-3786) in collaboration with the Lake Champlain Land Trust and the original owners of the Landon Farm. This kid-friendly loop trail meanders through the woods, which burst with wildflowers in the spring.
For a longer walk, turn left just past the community trail to the Round Pond Natural Area on East Shore Road. The area is 0.2 mile after the turn. Look for the orange gate that marks the entrance and park along the road. The trails wind through meadows and forests to the lake where, depending on water level, you may be able to walk along the shoreline. East Shore Road continues past the Good Hope Farm (802-372-4087), which offers a therapeutic riding program, to Whipple Road, which becomes West Shore Drive after crossing South Street.
White’s Beach is a nice place to take a break, with its grills, volleyball net, and public access to the lake. Just north of this area you will see hundreds of vibrantly colored birdhouses attached to trees that ring a swampy area where fiberglass dinosaurs roam. The project was started by Jay Purvis more than two decades ago as a means of attracting tree swallows to control mosquitoes on his property. Birdhouses are for sale at his house on the corner of West Shore and Lakeview. Stop by to read the sign that tells the story behind the birdhouses.
Continuing along this road with its expansive lake views, you’ll soon reach Snow Farm Winery (802-372-9463). In addition to its tasting room, where you can sample wines with names such as Snow White and Naked Mermaid, the winery displays the work of various artists. It hosts a popular weekly summer concert series, held rain or shine. Concertgoers may bring their own picnic dinner or purchase food, wine, and Vermont craft beer from on-site vendors. When the weather turns colder, Snow Farm offers its Winter Wine Down Music Series, which combines good food with local music.
While you could follow West Shore Road north to Grand Isle, if you do you will miss out on all that South Hero has to offer travelers along US 2. So backtrack to South Street and watch out for bicyclists, as this road is the most direct route from the Local Motion’s Island Line Bike Ferry landing (802-861-2700) to US 2. The ferry, which operates from mid-June to mid-October, transports cyclists across the 200-foot “cut” where the Rutland Railroad swing bridge once operated to enable trains to cross the lake from Colchester to South Hero. The gentle terrain of the islands and low-traffic backroads make this the perfect destination for biking. With the ferry, it is possible to bike to South Hero from Burlington, Vermont’s largest city, on the 14-mile Island Rail Trail.
South Hero’s Stone Castles
Among South Hero’s quirky attractions are its miniature stone castles. Watch for these when touring the south end of South Hero, especially along West Shore Road. All of these castles are on private land, so no trespassing allowed, although some are visible from the road, including one at Crescent Bay Farm Bed & Breakfast (see Best Places to Sleep) located farther along this road.
These elaborately detailed castles of local fieldstone, some with glazed windows, towers with conical roofs, and drawbridges, were created by Harry Barber from the 1920s to the ’60s. Originally, some had electricity or running water in the moat. He also built water fountains, planters, and other garden structures.
So who was this craftsman and how did he end up in the islands?
The story goes that after being injured in a work accident and receiving a substantial settlement from the government, Barber set off from his native Switzerland, intending to hop a freighter to South America. Instead he ended up in the islands, where a local lass offered the hungry wanderer some food. She helped him find work on a farm on nearby Providence Island. Their relationship grew, and he later married her and settled on South Hero. The castles he lovingly built are modeled after Swiss castles and pay homage to his homeland.
When you first turn on South Street, if you head right you’ll reach the ferry landing at Allen Point. A left toward the village takes you past two pick-your-own apple orchards, a fun family outing in the fall when the apples ripen. The first, Allenholm Farm (802-372-5566), has a long agricultural history, as owner and seventh-generation farmer Ray Allen’s family first settled here in 1870.
The shop’s shelves overflow with Vermont products, including maple syrup, cheese, applesauce, dried apples, jellies, and sweet apple cider. Outside at the petting paddock, meet Willie and Sassafrass, the donkeys, or visit with the goats, horses, and other animals. Be sure to bring a pocket full of quarters for the feed dispensers.
You can rent a bike here, although the big attraction is picking apples. On weekends you can take a tractor-driven wagon ride to the orchard.
From Memorial Day through Columbus Day, the Accidental Farmer Café, an outdoor eatery set against a backdrop of apple orchards, operates at Allenholm. Food is locally sourced, including the grass-fed beef from Grand Isle’s Canamak Farms (802-372-8258) that’s on the daily menu and featured on Burger Night every Friday. Top off your meal with a maple creemee or buy a fresh-baked pie made with farm-grown fruit to enjoy later.
At nearby Hackett’s Orchard (802-372-4848) you can pick up a six-pack of cider doughnuts—plain or cinnamon sugar, your choice—and a gallon of cold, fresh-pressed apple cider. Apple picking usually begins after Labor Day and includes a wagon ride to and from the orchard. Its small farm shop carries apple products, honey, cookbooks, and other items. Both Hackett’s and Allenholm also sell berries in season.
At the end of South Street near the intersection with US 2, the Island Craft Shop (802-372-3945), an artisan cooperative, has the work of several local artists for sale. Seb’s Snack Bar on the corner offers ice cream, creemees, and the usual summer fast food fare. The attached shop specializes in Vermont gift items. Or stop by Wally’s Place Bagels and Deli (802-372-4666), a short jaunt to the right on US 2, for one of their breakfast or lunch sandwiches on bagels or homemade artisan bread.
Head north again on US 2 through the village to Tinkers Barn (802-372-4754), which has been in business for more than 40 years. Hats of every size, shape, and color; aprons; glassware; buttons; books; knickknacks; fishing gear; and other vintage items fill the two floors and front porch of the classic red New England barn.
DETOUR
Past Keeler Bay, look for signs for VT 314 (Ferry Road). Just after the turn, you’ll see the Green Frog Gifts & Clothing Shop (802-372-5031), which has been in business at this location for 40 years. You can’t miss it, as Croker, a 400-pound, 6-foot-tall green frog, sits outside. Stop in to say hello to owners Stan and Nancy Wood and to purchase Vermont clothing and products.
Before the ferry dock at Gordon’s Landing, turn right onto Fish Hatchery Road to explore the interactive exhibits and view several species of freshwater fish in the aquariums and hatchery at the Ed Weed Fish Culture Station (802-372-3171). Admission is free and tours are self-guided.
A one-way trip on the Grand Isle-Cumberland Head Ferry to Plattsburgh, New York, takes 14 minutes. This year-round car ferry operates daily around the clock. The fares are cash-only, but there’s an ATM on the dock.
Continue past the ferry dock north on West Shore Road to Bell Hill Road, then right on Pearl Street to return to US 2. Take a left toward Grand Isle State Park (802-372-4300), one of the most visited Vermont state parks.
One of Grand Isl’s main attractions is Hyde Log Cabin (802-372-5440), purportedly the oldest original log cabin in New England and possibly the United States. Pioneer settler and Revolutionary War veteran Jedediah Hyde Jr. built the one-room cabin in 1783, and today visitors can experience how the early settlers in this area lived. Adjacent to the cabin, which was moved to this location in 1946, is the Block Schoolhouse, originally known as District #4 Schoolhouse. The 1814 building, also once used as a church and community gathering place, was constructed with foot-thick, square-hewn logs with a lime and sand mortar.
Just past the school and cabin, Grand Isle Art Works (802-378-4591), a gallery and café serving lunch and brunch in a late eighteenth-century farmhouse, features the work of more than 70 local and regional artisans. Continuing on, you will come to the drawbridge, the only one in the state, which connects the two Hero Islands and brings you to Knight Point State Park (802-372-8389). In summer, Islands Center for Arts and Recreation (802-372-4174) schedules weekly concerts and other special events at this park, including performances of the world-famous Herrmann’s Royal Lipizzan Stallions.
HYDE LOG CABIN, GRAND ISLE
North Hero’s newest art gallery, GreenTARA Space (802-355-2150), combines art exhibits with a coffee bar in a refurbished nineteenth-century church. Studio space is available for working artists and researchers, and for the public there are occasional bird walks and talks, workshops, and music programs. Hero’s Welcome (802-372-4161), an island institution, stocks everything you didn’t know you needed. One-of-a-kind kitchen items and sundries share shelf space with books, maps and charts, clothing, children’s games, and specialty foods. Stop at the deli to order one of their custom sandwiches, many named for Vermont historical figures, to eat at the dockside picnic area across the street. The white clapboard building has a long history as a general store. It was built around 1900 by John Tudhope and was run by generations of his family for the next nine decades.
As you drive north, veer off US 2 to the right on Lakeview Drive and continue straight to North Hero State Park (802-372-8727). It’s no longer staffed, and no fee is charged to visit this day-use only park. The park road winds through wooded areas to a shale beach on Maquam Bay where you can swim or picnic. Don’t enter the roped-off beach area, as this is restricted to protect several species of turtles that nest here, including the threatened spiny softshell turtle. Return to US 2 by retracing your route or via a shortcut on Bridge Road that will bring you to the bridge to the Alburgh Peninsula.
After crossing the bridge, turn onto VT 129 at God’s Little Brown Church and take a left on Coon Point Road. When you get to the Y, stay left for Alburgh Dunes State Park (802-796-4170). In addition to having one of the longest beaches on Lake Champlain, this park is noteworthy for its glacier-created sand dunes, large black spruce bog, and two rare post-glacial era plant species: the beach pea and Champlain beach grass. After enjoying a dip in the cool lake waters, pack up your beach chair and cooler and head back to VT 129 (turn left to stay on Coon Point Road). Take a left when you hit the main route and follow this to Isle La Motte, a left across the causeway.
WHERE HISTORY WAS MADE
You could say that the island is a page out of the history books, for several significant events happened on this 16.7-square-mile piece of land. A good place to start exploring is at St. Anne’s Shrine (802-928-3362), a 13-acre spiritual site with an open-sided chapel for daily Mass and private devotion, as well as grottoes and the Stations of the Cross. The visitor center has a bookstore, gift shop, and history room where you can learn about the shrine’s heritage and view artifacts and information about the Chazy Fossil Reef. To get there, turn right onto Shrine Road, go about a mile, then turn left onto St. Anne’s Road. This spot has historical significance, as it’s believed that explorer Samuel de Champlain first set foot here in 1609. The granite statue of Champlain and his Native American guide, sculpted at Montreal’s Expo 67 in the Vermont Pavilion, commemorates the event.
ST. ANNE’S SHRINE, ISLE LA MOTTE
This is also the site of Vermont’s oldest European settlement and the first Mass celebrated in the area. Captain Pierre La Motte, for whom the island is named, built Fort St. Anne here in 1666 for defense against the native tribes. Before the Rouses Point Bridge was built, the Chazy Landing Ferry linked New York and Vermont. Will Sweet began this ferry service here in 1905, the first gas-powered ferry on the lake, and operated it until 1937.
Go left as you leave the shrine onto West Shore Road, which travels along the lake with views of New York State. Historic Fisk Farm (802-928-3364) is the setting for free summer Sunday afternoon concerts that owner Linda Fitch bills as tea, art, and music served in the garden and barn. A selection of cakes and beverages is available for purchase during the concerts, with rotating art exhibits in a historic barn. Two lodgings may be rented on a weekly basis, including a late eighteenth-century stone cottage. In 1901 Vice President Theodore Roosevelt was in town to speak at the Vermont Fish and Game League meeting. While at the farm as an invited guest of Lt. Gov. Nelson Fisk, word came that President William McKinley had been shot.
Just down the road is Fisk Quarry Preserve (802-862-4150), where you can search for gastropods, cephalopods, and other marine fossils in the rocks. The property was designated as a National Natural Landmark in 2009.
Continuing your drive, at the first intersection stay left on Main Street to Hall Home Place (802-928-3091). This family-run operation produces ice cider, hard cider, and apple wine. Stop in for a tasting or to have lunch at the seasonal café in the renovated carriage barn that’s attached to the main stone house, which was built in 1828 from locally quarried stone. Another example of local architecture with island-quarried stones is the Isle La Motte Historical Society (802-928-3077), open July and August only, on the corner of Main Street and Quarry Road. The museum includes three buildings, among them an 1840 schoolhouse with exhibits on quarrying and local history, and a schoolroom circa the late 1800s.
The floors in the Vermont Statehouse in Montpelier have tiles of black marble quarried on this island, many containing fossils. Other local marble made its way to New York City, where it was used for the Brooklyn Bridge and Radio City Music Hall.
Quarry Road will lead you to the 81-acre Ira and Thomas LaBombard Goodsell Ridge Fossil Preserve, the oldest fossilized coral reef in the world. Stop by the visitor center to learn about the history and geology of the reef before following the Walk Through Time trail. Descriptive panels along the meadows and cedar forests map out a timeline of the earth’s evolution. Search for fossils in the outcroppings of the 480-million-year-old reef. Get back on Main Street and continue north until you reach VT 129. Cross the causeway and go left on West Shore Road straight into Alburgh. The northernmost town of the Champlain Islands, it was home to the first intercontinental ballistic missile site east of the Mississippi River, built in the early 1960s by the U.S. Air Force.
ISLE LA MOTTE HISTORICAL SOCIETY
INTERCONTINENTAL BALLISTIC MISSILE SITE IN ALBURGH
Don’t miss the New England via Vermont store (802-796-3665) on Milk Street, just off North Main. Although primarily a gift shop specializing in Vermont products and souvenirs, its back rooms are a treasure trove of local and Vermont history. The Room of Curiosities displays rocks and minerals, fossilized teeth, driftwood art, and a miniature sugarhouse. The impressive Civil War Museum contains memorabilia, artifacts, ephemera, and photos depicting life as a soldier and on the home front during this era, with many items from owner Margaret Theoret’s own family.
DETOUR
The Missisquoi National Wildlife Refuge (802-868-4781) in Swanton has a number of trails that wind through wetlands, marshes, and upland forests, making this an ideal destination for hikers, photographers, and birders. Access to the refuge is free. To get here, take US 2 south from Alburgh to VT 78. You’ll pass by Mud Creek Wildlife Management Area, another excellent birding spot. Turn left on Tabor Road for 0.25 mile to reach the headquarters, where you can pick up a trail map and bird checklist.
Follow the Old Railroad Passage Trail to Maquam Bay, a 3-mile round-trip. It passes through Maquam Bog, where pitch pine, the threatened Virginia chain fern, and other rare plant species live. The Stephen J. Young Marsh Trail is a 1.25-mile loop around a wetland with observation platforms to observe water birds. Boaters can launch from Louie’s Landing or, seasonally, from Mac’s Bend. If you continue heading east on VT 78, you will end up in the town of Swanton.
Best Places to Sleep
CRESCENT BAY FARM BED & BREAKFAST (802-324-5563), 153 West Shore Road, South Hero. Open May–Oct., off-season by prior arrangement only. This farmhouse B&B, a working farm with livestock and a maple sugaring operation, has four comfortable guest rooms decorated in country style, three with en suite bathrooms. Ask to stay in the Winery Room, which has views of Mount Mansfield, Vermont’s highest peak, and the vineyard at Snow Farm Winery, also owned by innkeepers Dave and Julie Lane. Guests have access to a private beach. A full breakfast is included in the rate. $$.
SHORE ACRES INN AND RESTAURANT (802-372-8722), 237 Shore Acres Drive, North Hero. Open Apr.–early Dec. This family-run inn has accommodated guests since 1951. Each of its 23 rooms overlooks Lake Champlain and is furnished with beautiful Vermont-made furniture and art by Vermont and New Hampshire artists. Guests are spoiled for choice when it comes to activities, which include tennis, kayaking, and lawn games. There’s also a private beach and nine-hole practice golf course. A complimentary continental breakfast is provided in the off-season. The Lake Champlain Room, open to the public, serves dinner. (See Best Places to Eat.) $$–$$$.
RUTHCLIFFE LODGE AND RESTAURANT (802-928-3200), 1002 Quarry Road, Isle La Motte. “Secluded” best describes this island hideaway, named for innkeeper Mark Infante’s mother, Ruth, and now run by Mark and his wife, Kathy. It’s been in the family since 1957 and has six lake-view rooms, each with a private bath and Vermont-marble veranda. The rooms have hand-stenciled walls, wicker chairs, and other homey touches. A full breakfast is included. Guests may dine at the restaurant, which features Italian American cuisine. Kayaks, canoes, and bicycles are available to rent. $$.
Best Places to Eat
COOK SISTERS CAFÉ AND CATERING (802-372-0101), 308 US 2, South Hero. Open Mon.–Sat.; call ahead for hours. Brunch is served on Saturday. This intimate 18-seat restaurant, named for chef-owner Christine Mack’s mother and aunts, earns rave reviews from its customers for its service and reasonably priced food, which caters to down-home tastes. Grilled chicken sandwiches and turkey burgers are on the menu along with a beet and white bean burger. Gluten-free options are available upon request. $.
BLUE PADDLE BISTRO (802-372-4814), 316 US 2, South Hero. Open Tues.–Sun. 5–9 PM (although hours may vary by season). The artsy decor of this well-established restaurant in the village center pairs nicely with its inventive cuisine, with each dish artfully presented. The menu offers a diverse selection of entrées for meat and seafood lovers, but options for vegetarians are limited. Chef Phoebe Bright, co-owner with Mandy Hotchkiss, taps into what’s available locally for the daily specials. The bistro also offers burgers and other lighter “bar fare,” along with a number of signature cocktails, seasonal craft beers, and an extensive wine list. $$–$$$.
SHORE ACRES INN AND RESTAURANT (802-372-8722), 237 Shore Acres Drive, North Hero. Open Apr.–Dec., hours and days vary by season. Dinner here comes with a spectacular view of the lake and mountains. Consider arriving early to enjoy a drink on the lawn before you are seated in the Lake Champlain Room. The varied menu includes such exquisite fare as maple bourbon–brined pork tenderloin and the Shore Acres Signature Apple Island Chicken. Chef Dan Rainville often incorporates produce and meats from local farms in his menu. For smaller appetites, the restaurant offers bistro plates. Reservations are recommended, especially in summer and fall foliage season. $$–$$$.
