Wool Appliqué the Piece O’ Cake Way

For a more complete description of all of our appliqué techniques, refer to our book The Best-Ever Appliqué Sampler and the DVD Becky Goldsmith and Linda Jenkins Teach You to Appliqué the Piece O’ Cake Way.

Always cut the background fabric larger than the size it will be when it is pieced into the quilt. The outer edges of the block can stretch and fray as you handle it while stitching. The appliqué can shift during stitching and cause the block to shrink slightly. We add 2˝ in both directions to the finished size of the block in our cutting instructions.

1.Press each background block in half vertically and horizontally. This establishes a center grid in the background that will line up with the center grid on the positioning overlay (see Making the Positioning Overlay).

2.Use a pencil or permanent marker to draw a ¼˝-long mark on each end of the pressed-in grid lines, at the edges of the block. Be sure not to make the lines too long or they will show on the block. These lines will make it easier to correctly position the overlay.

3.Use a pencil or permanent marker to draw a little X in the upper right-hand corner of the block background near the outer edge. This X will be in the same corner as an X that you will draw on the overlay. Be sure to mark the X near the edge so it won’t show on the finished block.

Each appliqué shape requires a template, and we have a unique way to make templates that is both easy and accurate. Use clear, single-sided, heavyweight self-laminating sheets to make templates. We recommend the Piece O’ Cake Essential Self-Laminating sheets. They are just a little heavier than the the laminate available at most office supply stores. The extra thickness makes them easier to use. You can find them at your local quilt shop or online at pieceocake.com. Also look for self-adhesive laminate sheets at an office supply store.

1.Use a photocopier to make 2 or 3 copies of each block. Always compare the copies with the original to be sure they are the same size.

2.Cut out the appliqué shapes from these copies. Group them when you can—it saves on the laminate. Leave a little paper allowance around each shape or group. Where a shape overlaps another, cut the top shape and the bottom shape from 2 different copies.

Mark the Overlap

When you are looking at individual templates as you work, it is hard to remember exactly where pieces overlap. Now is a good time to make a little X on templates where you will need to add extra seam allowance. That way, as you trace onto the fusible web, you will be alerted.

3.Place a self-laminating sheet shiny side down on the table. Peel off the paper backing, leaving the sticky side of the sheet facing up.

4.Felted wool appliqué shapes are always fused to the block (see Always Use Fusible Web for Felted Wool Appliqué). For shapes that will be fused, place the templates blank side down on the self-laminating sheet.

For appliqué shapes that will be sewn using needle-turn appliqué, place the templates right side down on the self-laminating sheet. Take care when placing copies onto the laminate so that the paper lies flat, without wrinkles. Use more laminating sheets as necessary.

5.Cut out each template. Try to split the drawn line with the scissors—don’t cut inside or outside of the line. Keep edges smooth and points sharp.

What If I Don’t Know?

When you make templates, you may not know which shapes will be fused felted wool and which will be needle-turned cotton or linen. If that is the case, make all of the templates for the method that you think will dominate the appliqué. Then (and this is important) remember to flip them over when you use them for the other method.

Templates are used right side down on the paper backing of the fusible web for fused appliqué.

1.Place each template face down (right side down) on the paper side of the fusible web. Trace around each template with a fine pencil. Remember to add a ½˝ seam allowance on any edge that will be underneath another appliqué shape.

You can place the templates close together, but leave an ⅛˝ buffer around each shape and around the extra that you add where a shape will be under another shape.

Trace around each template onto paper side of fusible web, adding ½˝ seam allowances where needed.

2.Cut out the fusible shapes (cutting both the paper and the fusible web), leaving a scant border of paper around each shape.

3.Place the appliqué fabric right side down on an ironing board. Place the appropriate fusible shape(s) on the wrong side of the appliqué fabric with the paper backing up.

4.Follow the manufacturer’s instructions and iron the fusible web to the wrong side of the appliqué fabric. Use a nonstick pressing sheet to protect the iron and ironing board and to prevent felted wool from scorching. The nonstick pressing sheet works better than anything else.

Tip

Use a medium-hot iron and the nonstick pressing sheet when pressing the fusible web to the back of the wool. It may only take 5 seconds. Do not use steam.

Save the Leftovers

You will accumulate little leftover bits of fusible web. Save them in a zip-type bag because they do come in handy.

5.Do not peel off the paper backing. Using sharp scissors, cut out the appliqué pieces just inside the drawn line on the paper backing on finished edges. Do not cut off the ½˝ seam allowance where shapes overlap.

Templates are used right side up on the right side of cotton or linen fabric for needle-turned appliqué.

1.Place the cotton appliqué fabric right side up on a sandpaper board. The sandpaper board will hold the fabric in place while you trace. We think that the Essential Sandboard (see Resources) is the best sandboard on the market.

2.Place the template right side up on the fabric so that as many edges as possible are on the bias or diagonal grain of the fabric. A bias edge frays less and is easier to turn under than an edge on the straight of grain.

3.Trace around the template. Make a line you can see. Be sure to draw the line right up next to the edge of the template. It won’t matter if the line is wide because it gets turned under.

4.Cut out each piece. Add a ³⁄₁₆˝ turn-under allowance for needle-turn hand appliqué. Add a scant ⅜˝ allowance to any part of an appliqué piece that will be under another piece.

Place templates with as many edges as possible on diagonal grain and trace around each template.

Cut out each piece, adding ³⁄₁₆˝ turn-under allowance for hand appliqué.

The positioning overlay is a piece of clear or frosted medium-weight vinyl that is used to position each appliqué piece accurately on the block. The overlay is easy to make and use, and can be used with just about any appliqué method.

1.Cut a piece of the vinyl the finished size of each block and border. If the clear vinyl came with a tissue paper lining, cut the tissue paper as you cut the vinyl. Set the tissue paper aside until you are ready to fold or store the overlay.

3.Tape the vinyl over the pattern. Use a ruler and a black Sharpie Ultra Fine Point permanent marker to draw the pattern’s horizontal and vertical centerlines onto the vinyl.

4.Accurately trace all the lines from the pattern onto the vinyl. The numbers on the pattern indicate stitching sequence—include these numbers on the overlay. They also tell you which side of the overlay is the right side.

5.Draw a small X in the upper right-hand corner of the placement overlay. This will help you position the overlay correctly on the block or border.

6.Fold or roll to store. If the vinyl came with tissue paper, place it over the drawn side of the overlay and fold or roll them together. The tissue paper keeps the lines from transferring from 1 part of the vinyl to another part.

1.If you are fusing the appliqué pieces, place the background right side up on the ironing board.

If you are positioning pieces for needle-turn appliqué, it is easier to work on top of a sandpaper board. The sandpaper keeps the background from shifting as you position appliqué pieces on the block.

3.Line up the center grid in the background with the center grid of the overlay. Place the X on the overlay in the same corner as the X on the background. Pin the overlay if necessary to keep it from shifting out of position.

4.Place the first appliqué piece under the overlay but on top of the background. It is easy to tell when the appliqué pieces are in position under the overlay. Be sure to place appliqué pieces in numerical order. If you are hand appliquéing and fusing on the same block, you may need to alternate between fusing and hand sewing.

5.For fusible appliqué, remove the paper backing. You can often position 4 or 5 pieces at a time, depending on their position and size. After you have pieces in position, fold the overlay out of the way and fuse them in place using a nonstick pressing sheet.

Tip

Use a medium-hot to hot iron and the nonstick pressing sheet when pressing the wool shapes in place. Press from the top for 15–20 seconds. Let the wool cool and check to see how it is sticking. You may need to flip the block over and, using the pressing sheet, press the back side of the wool appliqué for 5 seconds.

Do not use steam. Do not overpress.

6.Before placing hand appliqué pieces with turn-under allowances on the block, finger-press the turn-under allowance (see Finger-Pressing).

7.For hand appliqué, fold back the overlay and pin the appliqué pieces in place using ⅝˝ Essential Appliqué Pins (see Resources). We usually position and stitch only a piece or 2 at a time. Remove the vinyl overlay before stitching.

This is a very important step in needle-turn hand appliqué—whether you are sewing with an invisible stitch or making stitches with attitude. As you finger-press, make sure that the drawn line is pressed to the back. You’ll be amazed at how much easier this one step makes needle-turning the turn-under allowance.

To finger-press, hold the appliqué piece right side up. Using your thumb and index finger, turn the turn-under allowance to the back of the appliqué so that the drawn line is just barely turned under.

Use your fingers to press a crease into the fabric along the inside of the drawn line. Good quality 100% cotton and linen will hold a finger-press very well. Do not wet your fingers, use starch, or scrape your fingernail along the crease. Just pinch it with your fingertips. Finger-press every edge that will be hand sewn down.

1.After the appliqué is complete, press the blocks on the wrong side. Be careful not to stretch the blocks as you press. Use a pressing cloth with felted wool because wool scorches easily.

2.Take your time when trimming the blocks to size. Be sure of the measurements before you cut. Remember to measure twice and cut once.

4.When you are sure you have measured correctly, trim the excess fabric from each side of the block.

Trimming Tips

•Always look carefully at the block before you trim. If you follow the cutting instructions in this book, you should be trimming off about ¾˝ from each edge of the blocks. If you are about to trim much more (or less) than that, check the measurements.

•Use the short lines that you drew over the ends of the pressed-in grid to help you center the cuts.

•Take your time. If it helps you visualize how much you need to trim away, compare the paper pattern with the block.