Whether simply a bowl of perfectly seasoned leaves or a more elaborate salade composé, a fresh salad is an essential part of a French meal. I serve salad as a starter, an accompaniment to the main course or as a light lunch. In this chapter you will find ideas for beautiful salads to suit every occasion.
CONCOMBRE À LA CRÈME
Creamed Cucumber Salad
This was my grandmother’s favourite salad and the flavours and texture are part of my childhood memories. The best cucumbers for this are the rough-skinned variety that have a slightly bitter edge to them. If possible, make the salad the day before and leave it in the fridge to allow the flavours to develop.
Serves 4
2 MEDIUM CUCUMBERS
2 TBSP COARSE SEA SALT
2 TBSP CRÈME FRAÎCHE
2 GARLIC CLOVES, PEELED AND FINELY CHOPPED
JUICE OF 1 LEMON
1 TBSP CHOPPED CURLY PARSLEY
FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Peel and core the cucumbers, then cut them crossways into slices about 5mm thick.
Put the slices in a colander with the coarse salt, mix and leave them to marinate for at least 30 minutes. The cucumber will give off quite a bit of water, so drain the slices well after marinating and press them to get rid of the moisture.
Mix the crème fraîche with the garlic and lemon juice in a bowl, then add the cucumber. Cover the bowl and leave the salad to chill in the fridge – overnight if possible. Just before serving, sprinkle the salad with chopped parsley and season it with black pepper.
SALADE VERTE
Green Salad
Probably the most commonly consumed dish in France, there are hundreds of combinations in the choice of leaves, let alone the dressing. Try to choose a good variety of leaves, some bitter, some sweet and fragrant, others tender or crunchy. The choice of herbs is really up to personal taste and availability. Here is a mixture that I particularly like. If you don’t need this quantity of salad, just put the washed and dried leaves in a bag and store them in the fridge for another time. The dressing keeps well too.
Serves 8
1 ROUND LETTUCE
1 CURLY ENDIVE
1 ROMAINE LETTUCE
1 OAKLEAF LETTUCE
Dressing
80ML OLIVE OIL
2 TSP DIJON MUSTARD
1 TSP SALT
2 TBSP TARRAGON VINEGAR
1 TBSP CHOPPED PARSLEY
1 TBSP CHOPPED CHERVIL
1 SMALL BUNCH OF CHIVES SNIPPED
FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Pick over the salad leaves and discard any that are damaged. Wash them carefully in ice-cold water, then drain them and dry them thoroughly in a salad spinner. Put the leaves in a salad bowl.
Mix the dressing ingredients together in a small jug. Just before serving, add some dressing to the salad and toss well.
SALADE DE CÉLERI-RAVE, POMME ET ROQUEFORT
Celeriac, Apple & Roquefort Salad
We French love celeriac and this is a lighter, fresher dish than the traditional céleri rémoulade. These ingredients work well together and the cheese has a strong flavour so you only need a small amount.
Serves 4
500G CELERIAC, PEELED
1 TBSP RED WINE VINEGAR
2 TSP DIJON MUSTARD
4 TBSP OLIVE OIL
1 GREEN APPLE
JUICE OF 1 LEMON (OPTIONAL)
80G ROQUEFORT CHEESE, CRUMBLED
CELERY LEAVES
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Cut the celeriac into super-thin matchsticks and put them in a bowl. Mix the vinegar, mustard and oil to make the dressing and season with salt and pepper, then fold this into the celeriac. Chill the celeriac in the fridge for a few hours or overnight.
Cut the apple into thin matchsticks. If you’re not serving the salad right away, toss the apple in the lemon juice to stop it going brown. When you’re ready to serve, add the apple and crumbled cheese to the salad and finish with some celery leaves.
Lettuce Heart Mimosa
Mimosa refers to the topping of crumbled egg yolk and egg white scattered over a salad, said to resemble the spring flowers. This classic French salad is best made with round summer lettuce but it’s also good with Little Gems at other times of year. Replacing some of the olive oil with vegetable oil and adding a little water to the dressing makes it lighter and less rich than the traditional version, but it’s still creamy and delicious.
Serves 4
4 FREE-RANGE EGGS (AT ROOM TEMPERATURE)
4 ROUND LETTUCES OR LITTLE GEMS
SMALL BUNCH OF CHIVES, SNIPPED
Vinaigrette Dressing
1 TBSP DIJON MUSTARD
1 TBSP RED WINE VINEGAR
3 TBSP VEGETABLE OIL
1 TBSP OLIVE OIL
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Put the eggs in a pan of cold water, bring the water to the boil and cook for 9 minutes. Cool the eggs under running cold water, then shell them and cut them in half. Chop the yolks and whites and put them in separate bowls.
Put all the ingredients for the dressing in a jar with 2 tablespoons of water and shake well until emulsified.
Cut the lettuces in half and rinse them in cold water. Drain, then pat them dry.
Dress the lettuces with the vinaigrette and sprinkle over the chopped egg. Top with the snipped chives and serve at once.
Celeriac Salad
This is a much-loved salad that you will find up and down France – in delis, in brasseries as a starter served with cured meats, and in Michelin-starred restaurants with truffle and smoked duck. It can be heavy if there’s too much mayonnaise, so I like to use as little mayo as possible and add some crème fraîche. This salad is best kept in the fridge for 24 hours before serving.
Serves 6
1 CELERIAC (ABOUT 400G), PEELED
2 TBSP LIGHT MAYONNAISE (SEE BELOW)
2 TBSP CRÈME FRAÎCHE
1 TBSP WHOLEGRAIN MUSTARD
JUICE OF 1 LEMON
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Light Mayonnaise
1 FREE-RANGE EGG
1 TBSP DIJON MUSTARD
1 TBSP WHITE WINE VINEGAR OR LEMON JUICE
120G GREEK-STYLE YOGHURT
200ML SUNFLOWER OIL
Using a mandolin, cut the celeriac into fine matchsticks. You could grate the celeriac if you like, but I think it’s nice to have the long matchsticks for texture.
Put the celeriac in a bowl, add the remaining ingredients and season with salt and pepper. Cover the bowl and put the salad in the fridge for 24 hours. This salad keeps well for up to a week.
LIGHT MAYONNAISE
Classic mayonnaise is made with egg yolks only, but I find using the white as well and adding some yoghurt makes a lighter sauce.
Crack the egg into a food processor, then add the mustard, vinegar and yoghurt. Season with salt and pepper. Start to blend, then begin drizzling in the oil until the mixture emulsifies.
SALADE DE FENOUIL, NOIX ET FIGUE
Fennel, Walnut & Fig Salad
This lovely fruity salad is one to make at the end of summer or in early autumn, when figs, grapes and walnuts are all in season. You can use wet walnuts (fresh walnuts that haven’t been dried) if available. The grape juice makes an interesting dressing.
Serves 4
25 WHITE GRAPES
4 TBSP OLIVE OIL
1 LARGE FENNEL BULB, TRIMMED
JUICE OF 1 LEMON
2 FRESH FIGS
60G WALNUT KERNELS
1 TBSP CASTER SUGAR
LEAVES FROM A BUNCH OF BASIL
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Crush the grapes or blitz them in a food processor, then put them in a fine sieve over a bowl and press well to collect the juice. Discard the pulp. Mix the juice with the olive oil and season with salt and pepper to make a dressing.
Slice the fennel as finely as possible, preferably with a mandolin, then toss the slices in lemon juice. Cut the figs into halves or quarters, depending on their size.
Put the walnuts in a dry frying pan with the sugar and cook them over a medium heat, tossing frequently, until the sugar melts and caramelises the nuts. Set them aside to cool.
Arrange the fennel slices and figs on a serving dish, add the dressing, then scatter the nuts and basil leaves on top. Serve at once.
SALADE DE BROCOLI GRILLÉ AUX AMANDES ET CITRON
Grilled Broccoli Salad with Almonds & Lemon
Tenderstem broccoli is best for this simple salad, but regular broccoli or even romanesco can be used – just cut it into small wedges.
Serves 4
2 UNWAXED LEMONS
2 TBSP CASTER SUGAR
80G FLAKED ALMONDS
80ML VEGETABLE OIL
250G TENDERSTEM BROCCOLI PINCH OF SALT
PINCH OF PIMENT D’ESPELETTE (SEE HERE) OR CHILLI FLAKES
Peel the lemons, then slice the peel into thin matchsticks. Put these in a pan, generously cover with cold water and bring to the boil. Drain and repeat this process twice more. The third time, add the sugar and simmer until the liquid is syrupy. Leave to cool, then drain the matchsticks and set them and the syrup aside. Squeeze the juice from the lemons and set it aside.
Toast the almonds in a dry pan until golden brown. Keep a close eye on them so they don’t burn.
Drizzle some of the oil over the broccoli, then grill it on a griddle pan over a high heat, or on a barbecue, until well charred but still nice and crunchy.
Mix the lemon juice with the remaining oil, the syrup from preparing the lemon peel and a pinch of salt. Drizzle this over the grilled broccoli, then scatter the almonds on top, along with the cooked lemon peel. Dust with a little piment d’Espelette or some chilli flakes before serving.
SALADE DE CHAMPIGNONS À L’EMMENTAL ET HERBES
Mushroom Salad with Emmental & Herbs
To enjoy this salad to the full, be sure to use super-fresh, firm mushrooms, good fresh herbs and do not serve it straight from the fridge. Emmental is my cheese of choice for this recipe, but Gruyère would also be fine. The slices of cheese must be really thin, so use a mandolin or a cheese slicer.
Serves 4
220G MUSHROOMS
2 TBSP LEMON JUICE
1 GARLIC CLOVE, PEELED AND FINELY CHOPPED
4 TBSP OLIVE OIL
2 TBSP CHOPPED PARSLEY
1 TBSP THYME LEAVES
1 TBSP ROUGHLY CHOPPED TARRAGON
1 TBSP SNIPPED BASIL
60G EMMENTAL CHEESE, VERY THINLY SLICED
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Wash the mushrooms and slice them really thinly. Put them in a bowl and toss them with the lemon juice, then season with salt and pepper.
Mix the finely chopped garlic with the oil and herbs, pour this mixture on to the mushrooms and toss everything well again.
Just before serving, add the slices of cheese on top of the salad.
SALADE DE COURGETTES ET OLIVES
Courgette Salad with Olives
Choose small courgettes, as they will be sweeter and have fewer seeds, and if possible use a mix of varieties and colours. I like to finish this salad with deep-fried courgette flowers but if you can’t get them, don’t worry. The salad will still be delicious.
Serves 4
400G MIXED COURGETTES
2 MEDIUM SHALLOTS, PEELED AND FINELY SLICED
1 TBSP HONEY
JUICE OF 1 LEMON AND ZEST OF ½
4 TBSP STRONG-FLAVOURED EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
80G PITTED BLACK OLIVES, ROUGHLY CHOPPED
8 COURGETTE FLOWERS (OPTIONAL)
VEGETABLE OIL, FOR DEEP-FRYING (OPTIONAL)
POTATO FLOUR OR CORNFLOUR, FOR DUSTING (OPTIONAL)
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Using a sharp knife, cut the courgettes into different shapes – slices, matchsticks, dice, ribbons – to add interest to the salad. Put them in a bowl, season with salt and pepper and add the shallots.
Mix the honey with the lemon juice and zest, then add the olive oil and pour this dressing over the courgettes. Add the roughly chopped olives.
If using the flowers, cook them just before serving. Carefully open the flowers and remove the stamens, as they can be very bitter. Half-fill a deep-fat fryer with vegetable oil and heat to 180°C. Dust the flowers in a little potato flour or cornflour and deep-fry them for 2 minutes until crisp. Drain them carefully and season with a little salt, then put them on top of the salad and serve at once.
French Bean Salad
Most green beans have had the strings bred out of them so no longer need to be trimmed both ends. My favourites are the super-fine beans known as ‘aiguillette’, but all green beans, such as bobby or runner beans, are great, including the yellow or purple varieties. I like to use a light olive oil or even a neutral vegetable oil for the dressing so it doesn’t overpower the salad.
Serves 4
320G MIXED GREEN BEANS
Classic French Dressing
1 MEDIUM SHALLOT, PEELED AND FINELY CHOPPED (OPTIONAL)
60ML WHITE WINE VINEGAR
180ML LIGHT OLIVE OIL
1 TBSP DIJON MUSTARD
1 GARLIC CLOVE, FINELY CRUSHED (OPTIONAL)
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Pick over the beans and if using large beans, such as runner or bobby, slice them before cooking.
Bring a big pan of water to the boil and generously season with salt. Add the beans and cook them until tender. Depending on the variety you’re using, this should take 4–6 minutes, but taste a bean to check. The beans for a salad should not be overcooked.
Once the beans are ready, drain and refresh them in a bowl of iced water. This halts the cooking process and also helps to keep the lovely green colour. Drain the beans again, then add 8 tablespoons of the dressing and serve warm or cold. Store the rest of the dressing in the fridge.
CLASSIC FRENCH DRESSING
If you are not keen on raw shallot, leave it out, likewise the garlic, but the following method of rinsing and marinating the shallot makes it mild and very digestible.
If using the chopped shallot, put it in a bowl, cover it with cold water and leave for 10 minutes. Drain, then rinse the shallot under cold running water. Put it back in the bowl, add the vinegar and leave to steep for 5–6 minutes, stirring a few times.
Add the rest of the ingredients, whisk them together and season with salt and pepper.
SALADE DE CHAMPIGNONS ET CÉLERI
Wild Mushroom & Celery Salad
Use seasonal wild mushrooms if possible, but cultivated oyster and shiitake are also fine, particularly if served warm. The dressing is made with Viandox which is a French yeast and beef extract seasoning. If you can’t get any, Bovril is a good alternative.
Serves 4
4 CELERY STICKS
JUICE OF 1 LEMON
220G MIXED MUSHROOMS
4 TBSP OLIVE OIL
1 SHALLOT, PEELED AND CHOPPED
1 GARLIC CLOVE, PEELED AND CHOPPED
2 TBSP CHOPPED PARSLEY
1 TBSP VIANDOX OR BOVRIL
1 TBSP SHERRY VINEGAR
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Trim the celery, then cut each stick into 3. Bring a pan of salted water to the boil, add the lemon juice and cook the celery for 6–8 minutes until tender. Drain the celery and put it in a serving bowl.
Trim the mushrooms and wipe them clean. Heat a tablespoon of the oil in a pan and fry the mushrooms over a high heat until lightly browned. Add the shallot and garlic, season with salt and pepper, then cook for a further minute. Take the pan off the heat and add the parsley, then tip the mushrooms into a bowl with the cooked celery.
Mix the Viandox, or Bovril, with the rest of the oil and the vinegar. Pour this dressing on to the mushrooms and celery and serve.
SALADE TIÈDE D’OIGNONS NOUVEAUX ET SARRASIN
Warm Salad of New Season Onions & Buckwheat
I love the mild, sweet taste of new season onions, and the nuttiness of the buckwheat goes perfectly with them. You can also use the green tops of the onions in this really healthy, flavoursome salad. Spring onions are fine when new season onions are unavailable.
Serves 4
220G BUCKWHEAT
2 BAY LEAVES
350ML VEGETABLE STOCK
12–18 NEW SEASON ONIONS OR SHALLOTS, WITH GREEN TOPS
6 TBSP OLIVE OIL
2 TSP SUGAR
200ML WHITE WINE
4 TBSP TARRAGON LEAVES
1 TBSP RED WINE VINEGAR
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Put the buckwheat in a pan with the bay leaves and stock, then bring to the boil. Cover the pan, turn down the heat and leave the buckwheat to simmer gently for 25 minutes. Take the pan off the heat and set it aside, covered, for another 10 minutes, then season the buckwheat with salt and pepper.
Trim the green tops off the onions and set them aside. Cut the onions into halves or quarters, depending on their size. Heat a tablespoon of the olive oil in a frying pan, add the onions and cook them until lightly browned. Season them with salt and pepper, then add the sugar and the wine. Cover the pan and simmer for 5 minutes, then remove the lid. The onions should be cooked, but still have a little crunch, and the liquid should have almost evaporated.
Slice half of the green onion tops and mix them with the tarragon. Scatter the buckwheat on to a dish and add the onions, then sprinkle the greens and tarragon mixture on top. Mix the rest of the oil with the vinegar and season with salt and pepper, then drizzle this dressing over the salad before serving.
ÉPINARDS AUX LARD FUMÉS
Spinach & Smoked Bacon Salad
Choose the freshest baby leaf spinach you can find as you’ll be eating it raw, and make sure you pat it dry thoroughly or the dressing won’t coat the leaves. This makes an excellent side salad or you can add a poached egg for a delicious light lunch.
Serves 4
180G BABY LEAF SPINACH, WASHED
120G SMOKED BACON OR VENTRÈCHE (SEE HERE), DICED
1 TSP DIJON MUSTARD
1 TBSP RED WINE VINEGAR
1 TBSP OLIVE OIL
1 SHALLOT, SLICED
FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Wash the spinach and dry it well, then pile it all into a salad bowl.
Put the diced bacon (or ventrèche) in a warm frying pan to render the fat, then gradually increase the temperature to crisp up the bacon. Take the pan off the heat, then add the mustard, vinegar and oil to make the dressing and season with pepper – you shouldn’t need salt because of the salty bacon.
Pour the bacon and dressing mixture over the spinach and sprinkle the sliced shallot on top.
Rice Salad Niçoise
Canned tuna is perfect for this rice-based dish, which is a nice change from the classic Niçoise salad and makes a filling, nourishing lunch. Serve at room temperature for the best flavour.
Serves 4
200G LONG-GRAIN RICE
2 RED PEPPERS, CUT IN HALF
6 TBSP OLIVE OIL
2 TBSP RED WINE VINEGAR
4 SALTED ANCHOVIES, CHOPPED
1 TBSP CAPERS
300G CANNED TUNA IN OIL, DRAINED AND FLAKED
100G PITTED OLIVES (GREEN AND BLACK), ROUGHLY CHOPPED
2 SPRING ONIONS, THINLY SLICED
100G BABY SPINACH LEAVES, WASHED
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
Put the rice in a pan with plenty of water. Add salt, then bring to the boil and cook the rice for 25 minutes or until tender. Drain the rice well and spread it out on a plate so it cools quickly.
Put the peppers, skin-side up, under a hot grill until blackened and charred. Leave them to cool, then peel off the skins and cut the flesh into thin strips. Discard the seeds and any white membrane.
Whisk the oil, vinegar, anchovies and capers together to make a dressing. Season with pepper and a little salt – not too much because of the anchovies.
Put the rice in a serving dish and add the flaked tuna, pepper strips, olives, spring onions and spinach leaves. Add the dressing just before serving and toss.
