Twelfth Night

January 5th or 6th

Celebration of the coming of Epiphany. The last holiday before everyone went back to work. Hoorah!

The History

New Year, New Pudding

This festival celebrates the coming of Epiphany (the celebration of God the Son as a human being, Jesus Christ). It also concludes the twelve days of Christmas.

In medieval times, Twelfth Night meant the end of an entire festival season that began with All Hallows’ Eve in October. It was the final day of indulging in holiday food and drink before the villagers had to go back to work (and back to their diets of less-than-indulgent food).

King of the Bean, Queen of the Pea

One of the many traditions observed on this night was to eat a cake with a bean and a pea hidden inside (ahem . . . choking hazard). Those who found the bean and pea would be declared the king and queen of the feast, and their “reign” would end at midnight.

In France, the Twelfth Night cake was called tortell, an O-shaped pastry stuffed with marzipan and topped with glazed fruit. In Spain, this cake was called roscón de reyes.

Revelers often drank wassail on Christmas and Twelfth Night. Wassail is similar to mulled cider, but is more or less a mulled beer. Drinking large quantities ensured a good apple harvest for the coming year (and quite possibly a ferocious hangover).

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Troubadours were traveling musicians who composed and performed songs at most medieval celebrations. They were lyrical poets who sang of battles, love, and chivalry to the lords, nobles, and royalty.

Cromwell: Pudding and Party Killer

Also a popular dish on this day was fig or plum pudding. This dish dates back to the mid 1600s. It was banned, along with Yule logs, caroling, and nativity scenes by none other than Oliver Cromwell (grrrr) who thought all the celebrations were too pagan. Oh, Oliver.

 

Good Queen’s Wassail

Mulled cider for a noble New Year. You will need a cheesecloth.

Ingredients

1 bottle Riesling or another mildly sweet white wine

2 cups honey

1 Tbsp each ground ginger, cinnamon, cardamom, white pepper, clove, nutmeg, and caraway seeds

2 tsp white pepper

Apple cider

Directions

image Bring the wine and honey to a boil. Skim the scum (bubbles) off of the top as it boils. This very necessary process is to clarify the honey.

image Remove from heat, stir in the spices, and store covered in the refrigerator for 12–24 hours.

image Strain the mixture through cheesecloth but don’t try to capture the entire residue, as you want the residual spices to blend with the wine mixture for the next month in the refrigerator. Once it is set for one month (or longer), take the mixture out of the refrigerator and let it sit for an hour. The honey and spices will be at the bottom in a solid mass. Warming it up a bit will allow you to mix all those great flavors together in a few good shakes.

image Strain the mixture, twice, through cheesecloth, and set aside. Warm a container of apple cider on the stove top. Take out a small punch bowl and add the wassail mix. Fill with warm apple cider and stir. We also suggest adding some bourbon to really get your Twelfth Night party going. Garnish with orange slices and cinnamon sticks.

Start this one month before the party! Store in the fridge and take out an hour before guests arrive. Easy-peasy cider cocktail at the ready! Feel free to add a touch (or more) of bourbon.

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Twelfth Night: Or King and Queen

by Robert Herrick (1591–1674)

Now, now the mirth comes

With the cake full of plums,

Where bean’s the king of the sport here;

Beside we must know,

The pea also

Must revel, as queen, in the court here.

Begin then to choose,

This night as ye use,

Who shall for the present delight here,

Be a king by the lot,

And who shall not

Be Twelfth-day queen for the night here.

Which known, let us make

Joy-sops with the cake;

And let not a man then be seen here,

Who unurg’d will not drink

To the base from the brink

A health to the king and queen here.

Next crown a bowl full

With gentle lamb’s wool:

Add sugar, nutmeg, and ginger,

With store of ale too;

And thus ye must do

To make the wassail a swinger.

Give then to the king

And queen wassailing:

And though with ale ye be whet here,

Yet part from hence

As free from offence

As when ye innocent met here.

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