THINK OF SOUPS AS LIQUID SALADS. IN THE SUMMER MONTHS, I KEEP A BATTERY OF CHILLED SOUPS IN THE REFRIGERATOR AND LOVE TO SIP THEM FOR BREAKFAST OR SNACKS AS WELL AS WITH MEALS. IN MY COOKING CLASSES OR WHEN ENTERTAINING, WE OFTEN PAIR A TINY GLASS OF SOUP WITH THE MAIN MEAL SALAD, OFFERING TEXTURAL VARIATION TO ROUND OUT THE FEAST.
CILANTRO-FLECKED HEIRLOOM TOMATO SOUP
CHILLED EVERGREEN TOMATO VELOUTÉ
GOLDEN ZUCCHINI AND BUTTERMILK SOUP
SHELLFISH VELOUTÉ WITH KAFFIR LIME DUST
CHILLED PEA AND BUTTERMILK SOUP
WATERCRESS SOUP WITH WARM OYSTERS
CILANTRO-FLECKED HEIRLOOM TOMATO SOUP
In the summer months, I keep a batch of this soup on hand in the refrigerator, and I often sip a glassful for breakfast. Light, refreshing, and full of flavor, it hits the spot any time of the day. It matches beautifully with a salad as a meal made up of nothing but chunks of fresh garden tomatoes drizzled with a touch of Basil-Lemon Dressing (see Basil-Lemon Dressing). Yes, tomato soup with tomato salad. When they are ripe and ready, never too many tomatoes in my book!
1½ pounds ripe heirloom tomatoes, cored and quartered (do not peel)
½ cup imported Italian tomato paste
2 teaspoons fine sea salt
1 teaspoon ground piment d’Espelette or other ground mild chile pepper
2 tablespoons best-quality sherry-wine vinegar
1 cup fresh cilantro leaves, plus extra for garnish (I use a variety of cilantro called Delfino)
Combine all the ingredients, except the extra cilantro leaves, in a a blender or a food processor. Add 12/3 cups water and puree to a smooth liquid. Taste for seasoning. The soup can be served immediately, but the flavors benefit from ripening for at least 3 hours and up to 24 hours, refrigerated. Serve in soup bowls, garnished with cilantro leaves. (Store without the garnish in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 2 days. Reblend at serving time.)
Food processor or blender? In most cases, the food processor and blender can be used interchangeably. But for many soups—especially those that are made in quantity, such as this tomato soup—I find the blender is more accommodating. Even large food processors tend to overflow with a larger volume of liquid. And while the food processor purees, the blender can turn soups into a thicker, emulsified liquid.
Selecting the best tomato paste: Be sure to read the ingredients label when purchasing tomato paste. Many domestic brands contain sugar and other sweeteners. Brands from Italy generally contain nothing but tomatoes and salt. In this recipe in particular, where a quantity of tomato paste is used, the pure version is a must.
Warm or chilled, this colorful soup finds a welcome place at our table. Broccoli and mint have an affinity for one another, as the herb introduces bright, assertive aromas as well as flavors.
3 tablespoons coarse sea salt
1 pound broccoli, cut into stems and florets (about 6 cups)
1 quart Homemade Chicken Stock (see Homemade Chicken Stock) or Homemade Vegetable Stock (see Homemade Vegetable Stock)
Fine sea salt
About 2 tablespoons crème fraîche, for garnish
Fresh mint leaves, for garnish
1. Prepare a large bowl of ice water.
2. Fill the pot with 8 quarts of water and bring it to a rolling boil over high heat. Add the coarse sea salt and the broccoli. Blanch, uncovered, until the broccoli is crisp-tender, 3 to 4 minutes. Immediately drain the broccoli and plunge the stems and florets into the ice water so they cool down as quickly as possible and retain their crispness and bright green color. (The broccoli will cool in 1 to 2 minutes. After that, it will soften and begin to lose crispness and flavor.) Transfer the broccoli to a colander and drain.
3. Transfer the broccoli to a food processor or blender. Add the stock and puree to a smooth liquid. If serving the soup warm, transfer it to the pot in which the broccoli was cooked and heat it through. Season to taste with the fine sea salt. Serve in soup bowls, drizzled with crème fraîche and garnished with mint leaves. (Store without the garnish in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Reblend at serving time.)
CHILLED EVERGREEN TOMATO VELOUTÉ
This quick and sublime summer soup is a picture postcard of my August garden in Provence. I grow two varieties of green tomatoes, Green Zebra and Evergreen. Each year I taste them side by side, and I still cannot decide which I like better. Green Zebra, yellowish green with yellow and white stripes, is sweet and tangy at the same time, while Evergreen (also known as Emerald Evergreen) is indeed emerald-colored, and along with tang and sweetness is a bit creamy as well. Of course this soup can also be made with red, orange, or yellow varieties. The gentle sweetness of the vanilla bean loves the company of tomatoes. Don’t be afraid to let the mixture blend for a full 3 minutes, to create a thick emulsion. And use the best olive oil you can find, for the rich elegance of the oil really shines here.
1 plump, moist vanilla bean
2 pounds ripe Evergreen or Green Zebra tomatoes, cored and quartered (do not peel)
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
1. Flatten the vanilla bean and cut it in half lengthwise. With a small spoon, scrape out the seeds. (Reserve the pod for another use. I dry the pods and bury them in a large glass jar of sugar to flavor it.)
2. Combine all the ingredients in a blender or a food processor. Add 1/3 cup water and blend for a full 3 minutes, to create a thick emulsion. Serve very cold in glasses. (Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Reblend at serving time.)
GOLDEN ZUCCHINI AND BUTTERMILK SOUP
Soups do not get simpler, more versatile, healthier, or more satisfying than this golden zucchini and buttermilk soup. And it can be prepared in a snap, with mary variations.
2 plump, moist garlic cloves, peeled, halved, and green germ removed
1 pound golden zucchini or yellow summer squash, chopped
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
2 cups buttermilk, shaken to blend
¼ cup minced dill or mint (or a combination of the two) or zucchini or squash blossoms, cut into a chiffonade
In a food processor or a blender, mince the garlic. Add the zucchini, salt, and buttermilk and puree to a smooth liquid. Taste for seasoning. Serve in soup bowls or small, clear glasses, garnished with the dill, mint, or zucchini or squash blossoms. (Store without the garnish in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Reblend at serving time.)
Variation: Use a 1-pound European cucumber in place of the zucchini or summer squash.
SHELLFISH VELOUTÉ WITH KAFFIR LIME DUST
This spicy, fragrant, and beautiful pale pink soup combines many of my favorite ingredients: the usually discarded shells of shrimp or langoustines, lemon, red pepper flakes, and yogurt. It is a variation on a shellfish soup I have been making for years. In this version, I whisk in yogurt to add a touch of body to what is usually a rather thin though vibrant soup. I have a small kaffir lime tree growing in my courtyard in Provence, and so have put the fragrant leaves to good use here. I often serve the soup in small portions as a cool and refreshing appetizer on warm summer evenings, but it is also ideal as an accompaniment to any fish salad.
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
8 ounces shrimp shells (not including heads), rinsed (from 1½ pounds shrimp)
1 whole lemon, preferably organic, rinsed and quartered
1 tablespoon fennel seeds
2 segments star anise
2 quarts cold water
One 28-ounce can peeled Italian plum tomatoes in their juice
Several fresh or dried bay leaves
1 plump, moist garlic head, halved crosswise (do not peel)
¼ teaspoon hot red pepper flakes (or to taste)
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
3 tablespoons imported Italian tomato paste
6 fresh or dried kaffir lime leaves, minced
1 quart plain nonfat yogurt
1. In the stockpot, heat the oil over moderate heat until hot but not smoking. Add the shells and sear until they turn bright pink and very fragrant, about 5 minutes. Add the lemon, fennel, star anise, cold water, and the tomatoes, bay leaves, garlic, pepper flakes, salt, and tomato paste. Bring to a boil, cover, and boil vigorously for 25 minutes. To extract the maximum flavor from the shells, use a wooden mallet to crush and break them up in the pot. Taste occasionally for seasoning and strength.
2. Line a large colander with a double layer of the dampened cheesecloth, and place over a large bowl. Ladle the broth and solids into the colander, pressing down hard on the solids to extract the maximum juices and flavor. Taste for seasoning. You should have about 1 quart broth. If you have more, reduce the broth over medium heat to 1 quart. Chill. (Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 day.)
3. In a spice grinder or coffee mill, grind the kaffir lime leaves to a fine powder.
4. At serving time, add the yogurt to the soup. Whisk to blend. Taste for seasoning. Serve chilled in soup bowls, sprinkled with the kaffir lime dust.
On kaffir limes: I have a thriving kaffir lime tree, and admire the leaves for their perfume and the slightly piquant touch they can add to any dish. Kaffir limes—also known as wild limes or Thai limes—are essential to Asian cooking, but Westerners are quickly discovering their virtues. The dark green, glossy kaffir lime leaves can be found fresh, dried, and frozen in many Asian food shops. Both fresh and dried leaves can be chopped or ground to a powder in an electric spice mill or coffee grinder. I find that frozen leaves, once thawed, are less versatile.
CHILLED PEA AND BUTTERMILK SOUP
I often serve this soup as an opening-night appetizer at my cooking school in Provence, always to raves and looks of pleasant surprise. I love the light, lactic tang of buttermilk, as well as its creamy thickness. Pair this with the Spring Salad: Asparagus, Peas, Beans, and Fennel (see Spring Salad: Asparagus, Peas, Beans, and Fennel).
2 plump, moist garlic cloves, peeled, halved, and green germ removed
2 cups fresh or frozen peas (no need to thaw)
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
2 cups buttermilk, shaken to blend
¼ cup finely minced fresh mint leaves; several zucchini or squash blossoms, cut into a chiffonade; or cilantro sprigs
In a food processor or a blender, mince the garlic. Add the peas, salt, and buttermilk and puree to a smooth liquid. Taste for seasoning. Serve in soup bowls or small, clear glasses, garnished with the mint, cilantro, or zucchini or squash blossoms. (Store without the garnish in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Reblend at serving time.)
WATERCRESS SOUP WITH WARM OYSTERS
As winter approaches I begin to have a deep craving for the brilliant, peppery watercress leaf and use it liberally in salads and soups and as a vegetable all on its own. This soup was inspired by a version I had at Fish, our regular hangout in Paris’s 6th arrondissement. To keep the watercress’s bright green color, I blanch and refresh it and then heat it gently at serving time. At the last minute, plump Brittany oysters are warmed in the colorful soup.
2 quarts Homemade Chicken Stock (see Homemade Chicken Stock)
3 tablespoons coarse sea salt
2 bunches watercress, trimmed and washed
16 fresh oysters removed from their shells
1. Pour the stock into a saucepan and boil over high heat until reduced by half, about 25 minutes.
2. Prepare a large bowl of ice water.
3. Fill the pasta pot with 8 quarts of water and bring it to a rolling boil over high heat. Add the salt and the watercress. Blanch, uncovered, until the watercress is cooked through, 3 to 4 minutes. Immediately drain the watercress and plunge it into the ice water so it cools down as quickly as possible and retains its bright green color. (The watercress will cool in 1 to 2 minutes.) Transfer the watercress to a colander and drain, pressing down to release as much liquid as possible. Transfer it to a clean towel and wrap tightly to further release liquid.
4. Transfer the watercress to a food processor or blender. Add the stock and puree to a smooth liquid. Taste for seasoning.
5. At serving time, gently warm the soup and ladle it into soup bowls. Arrange 2 oysters in each bowl. Serve warm. (Store without the oysters in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Reblend at serving time.)
VARIATION: If fresh oysters are not readily available, a simple garnish of sour cream and a touch of minced fresh mint leaves offers an excellent variation.
CHILLED YOGURT, HERB, AND JALAPEÑO SOUP
This chilled summer soup is a veritable garden in a bowl, with fresh mint, cilantro, peppers, and spring onions gathered from the potager just seconds before the soup appears at the table. A cup of this soup is an ideal accompaniment to any summer salad; I particularly love it with the Crab, Avocado, and Quinoa Salad with Technicolor Tomatoes (see Crab, Avocado, and Quinoa Salad with Technicolor Tomatoes).
2 cups plain whole-milk yogurt, well chilled
1 cup fresh mint leaves
1 cup fresh cilantro leaves
4 plump, moist garlic cloves, peeled, halved, and green germ removed
1 teaspoon minced fresh jalapeño pepper (or canned chopped jalapeño peppers)
2 small spring onions or scallions, white part only, trimmed, peeled, and thinly sliced
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime or lemon juice
Fine sea salt
1. In a food processor or a blender, combine the yogurt, half the mint, half the cilantro, the garlic, jalapeño, spring onions, and citrus juice. Puree to a smooth liquid. Season with salt to taste.
2. Finely chop the remaining mint and cilantro leaves. Serve the soup in soup bowls, garnished with the chopped herbs. (Store without the garnish in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Reblend at serving time.)
ZUCCHINI AND FRESH GINGER VELOUTÉ
This magical five-ingredient soup is delicious hot or cold, and can be assembled in a matter of minutes. When fresh zucchini is in season, I always have a batch of this in my refrigerator, ready for welcoming sips to accompany a meal, or as a quick and healthy snack. I first sampled a version of this at La Villa Saint Victor outside of Uzès in Provence, where chef Stèphane Vieljeux creates wonderful, fresh fare. Even though the soup is called a velouté—because of its creamy, velvety smoothness—the only cream is an optional dollop anointed at serving time.
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
6 small spring onions or scallions, white part only, trimmed, peeled, and thinly sliced
Fine sea salt
1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger
2 pounds firm zucchini, rinsed, trimmed, and cut into small pieces (do not peel)
1½ quarts Homemade Chicken Stock (see Homemade Chicken Stock) or Homemade Vegetable Stock (see Homemade Vegetable Stock)
Crème fraîche, for garnish (optional)
1. In a stockpot, combine the oil, spring onions, and salt, and sweat—cook, covered, over low heat until soft and translucent—for 3 to 5 minutes. Add the ginger and cook briefly. Add the zucchini and stock and bring to a low boil. Simmer, covered, for 10 minutes.
2. Remove from the heat and puree to a smooth liquid in a food processor or blender or with an immersion blender. Taste for seasoning. Serve, hot or chilled, in soup bowls and garnish with crème fraîche, if using. (Store without the garnish in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Reblend at serving time.)